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Error codes for split systems

Error codes for split systems. Chigo KFR-23IW/X1C KFR-26YW/X1C KFR-33IW/X1C KFR-36YW/X1C KFR-53IW/X1C KFR-56YW/X1C KFR-63IW/X1C KFR-66YW/X1C. F1 means the indoor unit PCB and outdoor unit PCB cannot communicate with each other.

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Error codes for split systems

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  1. Error codes for split systems Chigo KFR-23IW/X1C KFR-26YW/X1C KFR-33IW/X1C KFR-36YW/X1C KFR-53IW/X1C KFR-56YW/X1C KFR-63IW/X1C KFR-66YW/X1C

  2. F1 means the indoor unit PCB and outdoor unit PCB cannot communicate with each other. • Check all connections are clean and tight. Corrosion on connections can cause this error, use light abrasive paper to clean each one. • Check the connections are connected to the correct place, wiring diagrams are printed inside the indoor unit and in the outdoor unit PCB case. • Check for any breaks in the black communication wire, if chock blocks or rotary isolators are used then check the connections are properly connected and the isolator is turned on. • If all connections are clean, tight and correct then a faulty PCB is causing the problem. Replace them both. Voltage: Between terminal 1 and 2 the voltage should be 220-240V, these terminals are the Live and Neutral Between terminal 2 and 3 the voltage should fluxuate between 3V and 15VDC. These terminals are the neutral and communication line. F1 – Communication fault

  3. F2 error signifies a problem with the internal ambient air sensor • F3 error signifies a problem with the internal coil sensor • To access these sensors the internal unit front case needs to be removed • Clean both filters as weak air flow can cause an incorrect reading • Check the sensor plug is firmly connected to the indoor PCB • Check for any breaks in the sensor wire • Check the ambient air sensor has strong air flow (the sensor must be placed in front of the coils) • Check the coil sensor socket is clean. This socket is exposed to condensate water so the socket can corrode over time. Use a small abrasive brush to clean the socket • Replace both sensors Notes: Both sensors are connected via the same plug so if one is faulty then both need replacing Using a multi-meter to check for resistance can also diagnose a faulty sensor. No resistance = faulty sensor. F2/F3 – Internal Temperature sensor fault

  4. F4 is indicating either a fault with the indoor Fan motor or indoor PCB • Isolate the unit from the power. open the air vain and spin the fan blade by hand, the fan blade should spin freely with no resistance and no noise. If the fan does not spin freely or a grinding noise is heard then the fan motor needs replacing • If the fan spins freely with no noise then there is a fault with the internal PCB, the internal PCB sends voltage to the fan motor. Check the fan motor is connected firmly to the PCB. If there's no fault with the connections then the indoor PCB needs to be replaced Notes: The indoor Fan motor is connected to the PCB with 2 connections, 1 is the power supply and the other is the communication line F4 – Internal fan fault

  5. Notes: • The 9K and 12K systems don’t use a separate IPM module as its built onto the main PCB • The 18K and 24K systems use a separate IPM module which is mounted next to the main PCB. • The IPM module is the inverter module which control the speed of the compressor and the outdoor Fan, this is what makes the unit energy efficient. • Check the connections between the compressor and IPM Module are clean and tight • Check the IPM module is firmly screwed down to the PCB case • An engineer will be needed to check the refrigerant level, low gas can cause the compressor to get hot and send wrong signals back to the compressor • If the connections are clean and tight and the refrigerant is at the right level then the IPM module needs replacing. F5 – IPM Module Fault (intelligent power module)

  6. F6 means outdoor ambient air sensor fault • F7 means outdoor coil sensor fault • F9 means outdoor compressor sensor fault • Check the connection between the sensors and the PCB is firmly connected • Check the sensor sockets are clean as these are exposed to condensate water so they can corrode, use a small abrasive brush to clean the sockets • If the sensors are connected properly and the sockets are clean then the sensor set needs to be replaced. Notes: All 3 sensors are connected via the same plug so if one sensor is faulty then all the sensors need to be replaced. A Multi-meter can be used to check for resistance, no resistance = faulty sensors F6/F7/F9 – External Temperature sensor fault

  7. This error is signifying a fault between the compressor and external PCB • Check the connections between the compressor and PCB and clean and tight. • Check for any damage to the PCB, burn marks will show a faulty PCB. Replace the PCB if faulty • An engineer will be required to check the refrigerant in the system is at the correct level, this error code normally appears when the system has no gas and the compressor has burnt out. A new compressor/outdoor unit is required. Notes: The compressor is connected to the IPM module on the 18K and 24K units. its connected to the main PCB on the 9K and 12K units. FC – Compressor drive fault

  8. This fault can mean many different things related to the outdoor units components. • Check if the compressor runs for 1 minute and the outdoor fan does not start, this means there is a fault with the outdoor fan motor • Check if the compressor and fan run for 1 minute and then shuts down, this means there is fault with the 4 way valve. Check the solenoid is connected to the PCB properly. Does the unit operate in the other mode, if so then the valve is faulty. • Check the outdoor PCB for damage, if there are any burn marks then the PCB needs replacing. Notes: Commonly this error signifies the system is low on refrigerant. An engineer is needed to check for leaks and recharge the system. FF – outdoor unit fault

  9. This error is signifying the unit is getting too hot • Check the indoor unit filters are clean and have a strong air flow, weak air flow means the components can overheat. • Check the indoor unit air intake vents are not blocked • Check the indoor fan motor is not damaged, use the same procedure as F4 error. P1 – Evaporator temp protection

  10. This error code is signifying a fault with the IPM module, it is either getting too hot or the power supply is too high • Check the outdoor unit is clear of any obstructions, there must be strong air flow to the back of the unit. • Check the power supply is suitable for the system. • Check the IPM Module is firmly screwed down to the PCB case • Check for damage to the IPM Module, If damaged then it needs to be replaced. • Check for damage to the compressor, an engineer will be required to check this P2 – Overheat/strong current protection for IPM Module

  11. Check the outdoor unit is clear of any obstructions, the outdoor unit requires good air flow to keep the coils clean. • Check the outdoor unit sensors are connected the PCB correctly • Check the sensor sockets are clean, these sensors are exposed to condensate water so the sockets can corrode, clean the sockets with a small light abrasive brush • An engineer will be needed to check the refrigerant level is correct if the sensors are not at fault. P4/p6/PA – Outdoor temperature sensor fault

  12. This error is signifying the refrigerant in the system is either low or too high • P8 means the system is running low on pressure • P9 means the system is running at a higher pressure. • An engineer is required to check the refrigerant level and check for leaks P8/p9 – low/high refrigerant pressure

  13. The error is saying the outdoor air sensor is detecting the outdoor ambient temperature is too high for the unit to operate. • Check the outdoor temperature is within the units operation limits. • Check for any heat sources around the outdoor unit, the unit must not be placed by machinery which gives out heat • Check the outdoor unit has good air flow, any blockages will overheat the unit • Check the sensors are not damaged, refer to P4 error code PC – High outdoor ambient temperature protection

  14. The DF code appears when the unit is in a pre heat cycle on start up It can also appear at random times of the day, this is normal during the winter months as it signifying the outdoor unit is in a defrost mode. This lasts between 3-6 minutes. If this code is showing for more than 10 minutes then try setting the temperature lower to ease the pressure of the outdoor unit If this code continues to show then the system is low on refrigerant and needs an engineer to check for leaks and top up the gas DF – defrosting code

  15. Common Faults were an error code is not displayed

  16. Notes: The remote control may look to be working but the unit will not receive the signal if the batteries are low on charge. • Check the unit is connected to the power supply • Isolate the unit from the mains power and then turn the unit back on, the unit should beep. If the unit beeps then the unit is connected to the power, if not then the unit is not connected to the power supply or the indoor PCB is faulty. • If the unit does beep but will not turn on by the remote control then the remote control may be at fault, replace the batteries first and try again. If this fails then the remote control needs replacing. The unit will not turn on

  17. Check the unit is programmed to the correct setting, I.e. set to cooling when cooling is required. • Check the unit is set to the correct temperature, for example if the room is 30 degrees and the unit is set to 16 degrees in cooling then the compressor will not start to protect itself. Always set the temperature 3-5 degrees lower than the room temperature and then lower the set temperature later on. • Check if the compressor and outdoor fan is running, if they are then the refrigerant is low in the system. An engineer will be needed to check the refrigerant level. Unit not cooling/heating

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