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VERMICOMPOSTING How to Make a Worm Bin

Why Have a Worm Bin?. Recycles food wastes instead of sending to landfillReduces load on sewage or septic systemsProduces useful organic product for yard or gardenEncourages respect for living things and natural cycles. Why Have a Worm Bin in the Classroom?. Can be used to teach science and envir

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VERMICOMPOSTING How to Make a Worm Bin

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    1. VERMICOMPOSTING How to Make a Worm Bin Emily Gianfortoni Hanover Master Gardener

    2. Why Have a Worm Bin? Recycles food wastes instead of sending to landfill Reduces load on sewage or septic systems Produces useful organic product for yard or garden Encourages respect for living things and natural cycles

    3. Why Have a Worm Bin in the Classroom? Can be used to teach science and environmental stewardship Can serve as a conduit of information about recycling to homes of students Will be a model for other classrooms and other schools Grant funds available for expanding beyond plastic tubs for worm bins

    4. Eisenia fetida “Red Wiggler” Different from Common Earthworm

    5. Characteristics of Common Earthworm (Lumbricus terrestris) Soil-dwelling – tunnels and burrows Does not eat large amount of organic material Will not reproduce well while confined Lives several feet below surface Feeds on surface at night Requires cool (45º) temperature

    6. Characteristics of the Red Wiggler Can eat half its weight of food per day Requires 70% moisture to breathe Ideal temperature 60º to 85º F Can thrive in confined space Needs good ventilation and drainage Needs bedding and food Avoids light

    7. Worm and Cocoon

    8. Constructing the Bin

    9. Materials Needed Bin made of opaque, flexible plastic, approx. 18 x 20 x15 inches Shredded newspaper Water Compost or soil Worms Drill with ¼ “ bit

    10. Drill holes in top of bin and part way down sides

    11. Dampen shredded paper Squeeze out excess water

    12. Fill bin with 6 to 8 in. of moist bedding

    13. Add compost

    14. Place worms in bin

    15. Choosing a Place for the Bin 59-77 degrees F optimal temperature Below 59º F feeding slows Can not tolerate temperature below 40º Will die if temperature hotter than 90º Basement or kitchen Garage if temperature above freezing Outside in shade in warm weather

    16. Feeding Your Worms Bury food in small amount of bedding Or wrap in layer of newspaper and place on top of bedding 1 lb. per sq. foot per week

    17. Things to Feed Your Worms Most vegetable and fruit wastes Bread and pasta Old food from the refrigerator (no meat) Tea bags and coffee grounds Egg shells (crushed) Pumpkins and watermelons ?

    18. Things NOT to Feed Your Worms? Meat, fish or bones Very oily or greasy foods Too many citrus peels Dog or cat feces Raw onions (can produce odor) Plastic, foil or other non-organics

    19. Harvesting Your Vermicompost: Method One Move bedding and worms to one side Place fresh bedding and food on other side Leave bin for 2 weeks or more Harvest castings after worms have moved

    20. Harvesting Your Vermicompost: Method Two Dump contents of bin on sheet of plastic Divide into piles As worms burrow into piles, remove top layer Continue to remove compost from each pile until mostly worms remain Return worms to bin with fresh, moist bedding

    21. Harvesting Your Vermicompost: Method Three Remove 2/3 of vermicompost with worms and dump in garden Add fresh bedding and food to remainder in bin Enough worms and cocoons remain to repopulate bin

    22. What are worm castings? What is vermicompost? Worm castings = worm poop Worm castings contain beneficial bacteria, enzymes, minerals and remnants of plant materials Vermicompost = worm castings + humus + microorganisms + partially decomposed bedding and plant materials

    23. Uses for Vermicompost Source of useful bacteria, fungi, nematodes, enzymes and plant nutrients for soil Use in potting soil (10% to 25%) Sprinkle lightly in seed beds Place small amount in planting hole with transplants Use as top dressing in garden (1/4 in. layer)

    24. Troubleshooting: Problems Usually Minimal Bad odors Flies Bin too wet Bin too dry Worms crawling up sides Worms dying

    25. Problem: Bad Smell Bin too wet: remove water with turkey baster; add dry bedding or peat moss More food than worms can eat: stop feeding for a week or two Not enough air: add more air holes; fluff bedding Food on top smells: bury under bedding

    26. Problem: Flies Fruit flies most common, but also house flies Keep bin covered and bury food in bin Add food as soon as available or freeze Don’t overfeed worms Don’t add food wastes that have already attracted fruit flies (e.g. banana peels)

    27. Problem: Bedding Too Wet or Too Dry Too dry: add water or watery food such as watermelon Too dry: keep covered; lay a sheet of black plastic on top of bedding Too wet: give food lower in water Too wet: add dry bedding or peat to bottom Too wet: drain off water in bottom of bin

    28. Problem: Worms Crawling Out or Worms Dying Worms on sides: put bin in light area with top off (worms avoid light) Worms on sides: try not to disturb bin and bedding Worms dying (fishy smell): make sure worms have enough food, air and correct moisture level

    29. Playing with Worms Is Fun!

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