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Why Have a Worm Bin?. Recycles food wastes instead of sending to landfillReduces load on sewage or septic systemsProduces useful organic product for yard or gardenEncourages respect for living things and natural cycles. Why Have a Worm Bin in the Classroom?. Can be used to teach science and envir
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1. VERMICOMPOSTINGHow to Make a Worm Bin Emily Gianfortoni
Hanover Master Gardener
2. Why Have a Worm Bin? Recycles food wastes instead of sending to landfill
Reduces load on sewage or septic systems
Produces useful organic product for yard or garden
Encourages respect for living things and natural cycles
3. Why Have a Worm Bin in the Classroom? Can be used to teach science and environmental stewardship
Can serve as a conduit of information about recycling to homes of students
Will be a model for other classrooms and other schools
Grant funds available for expanding beyond plastic tubs for worm bins
4. Eisenia fetida “Red Wiggler”Different from Common Earthworm
5. Characteristics of Common Earthworm (Lumbricus terrestris) Soil-dwelling – tunnels and burrows
Does not eat large amount of organic material
Will not reproduce well while confined
Lives several feet below surface
Feeds on surface at night
Requires cool (45º) temperature
6. Characteristics of the Red Wiggler Can eat half its weight of food per day
Requires 70% moisture to breathe
Ideal temperature 60º to 85º F
Can thrive in confined space
Needs good ventilation and drainage
Needs bedding and food
Avoids light
7. Worm and Cocoon
8. Constructing the Bin
9. Materials Needed Bin made of opaque, flexible plastic, approx. 18 x 20 x15 inches
Shredded newspaper
Water
Compost or soil
Worms
Drill with ¼ “ bit
10. Drill holes in top of bin and part way down sides
11. Dampen shredded paper Squeeze out excess water
12. Fill bin with 6 to 8 in. of moist bedding
13. Add compost
14. Place worms in bin
15. Choosing a Place for the Bin 59-77 degrees F optimal temperature
Below 59º F feeding slows
Can not tolerate temperature below 40º
Will die if temperature hotter than 90º
Basement or kitchen
Garage if temperature above freezing
Outside in shade in warm weather
16. Feeding Your Worms Bury food in small amount of bedding
Or wrap in layer of newspaper and place on top of bedding
1 lb. per sq. foot per week
17. Things to Feed Your Worms Most vegetable and fruit wastes
Bread and pasta
Old food from the refrigerator (no meat)
Tea bags and coffee grounds
Egg shells (crushed)
Pumpkins and watermelons ?
18. Things NOT to Feed Your Worms? Meat, fish or bones
Very oily or greasy foods
Too many citrus peels
Dog or cat feces
Raw onions (can produce odor)
Plastic, foil or other non-organics
19. Harvesting Your Vermicompost:Method One Move bedding and worms to one side
Place fresh bedding and food on other side
Leave bin for 2 weeks or more
Harvest castings after worms have moved
20. Harvesting Your Vermicompost:Method Two Dump contents of bin on sheet of plastic
Divide into piles
As worms burrow into piles, remove top layer
Continue to remove compost from each pile until mostly worms remain
Return worms to bin with fresh, moist bedding
21. Harvesting Your Vermicompost:Method Three Remove 2/3 of vermicompost with worms and dump in garden
Add fresh bedding and food to remainder in bin
Enough worms and cocoons remain to repopulate bin
22. What are worm castings?What is vermicompost? Worm castings = worm poop
Worm castings contain beneficial bacteria, enzymes, minerals and remnants of plant materials
Vermicompost = worm castings + humus + microorganisms + partially decomposed bedding and plant materials
23. Uses for Vermicompost Source of useful bacteria, fungi, nematodes, enzymes and plant nutrients for soil
Use in potting soil (10% to 25%)
Sprinkle lightly in seed beds
Place small amount in planting hole with transplants
Use as top dressing in garden (1/4 in. layer)
24. Troubleshooting: Problems Usually Minimal Bad odors
Flies
Bin too wet
Bin too dry
Worms crawling up sides
Worms dying
25. Problem: Bad Smell Bin too wet: remove water with turkey baster; add dry bedding or peat moss
More food than worms can eat: stop feeding for a week or two
Not enough air: add more air holes; fluff bedding
Food on top smells: bury under bedding
26. Problem: Flies Fruit flies most common, but also house flies
Keep bin covered and bury food in bin
Add food as soon as available or freeze
Don’t overfeed worms
Don’t add food wastes that have already attracted fruit flies (e.g. banana peels)
27. Problem: Bedding Too Wet or Too Dry Too dry: add water or watery food such as watermelon
Too dry: keep covered; lay a sheet of black plastic on top of bedding
Too wet: give food lower in water
Too wet: add dry bedding or peat to bottom
Too wet: drain off water in bottom of bin
28. Problem: Worms Crawling Out or Worms Dying Worms on sides: put bin in light area with top off (worms avoid light)
Worms on sides: try not to disturb bin and bedding
Worms dying (fishy smell): make sure worms have enough food, air and correct moisture level
29. Playing with Worms Is Fun!