1.21k likes | 2.44k Views
How to formulate solutions. Shampoo. Lesson Topics. Shampoo Market Overview Consumer Problems Surfactant Science Formulating a shampoo Testing. Lesson Objectives. Shampoo Market Overview Introduce the shampoo market Consumer Problems
E N D
How to formulate solutions Shampoo
Lesson Topics • Shampoo Market Overview • Consumer Problems • Surfactant Science • Formulating a shampoo • Testing
Lesson Objectives • Shampoo Market Overview • Introduce the shampoo market • Consumer Problems • Explain the problems shampoo formulas are designed to fix • Surfactant Science • Discuss surfactant properties • How they are relevant to cosmetics • Formulating a solution • Dissect a shampoo formula • Explaining what ingredients are used and why • Testing • Explain how to test a shampoo
Shampoos • Solution cosmetic designed to clean hair and leave it a more manageable state • Solutions - one of the simplest types of cosmetic formulas
Shampoo Market • Overall Market • Hair care market estimated ~ $40 Billion worldwide • Amount of money spent in US on Shampoo/conditioner • $2.26 billion (Food, Drug, Mass market)* *Does not include Walmart
$ MARKET SHARE 16 7.6 7.5 6.9 6.6 4.0 3.9 3.8 3.3 3.3 3.2 US Top Brands BRAND • Pantene – P&G • Head & Shoulders – P&G • Herbal Essences – P&G • Suave - Unilever • Garnier (Fructis) – L’Oreal • Tresemme – Alberto Culver • Matrix (Biolage) – L’Oreal • L'Oreal (Vives) – L’Oreal • Dove - Unilever • Private Label • John Frieda - Kao *Data from IRI covering 52 weeks ending 5/2009
Units sold (millions) 20.9 19.5 11.8 11.5 10.6 7.5 5.4 5.2 US Top Brands BRAND • Suave - Unilever • Pantene – P&G • VO5 – Alberto Culver • Herbal Essences – P&G • Garnier (Fructis) – L’Oreal • Head & Shoulders – P&G • L'Oreal (Vives) – L’Oreal • Tresemme – Alberto Culver *Data from IRI covering 52 weeks ending 5/2009
Shampoo Market • Types of shampoo (marketing) • Normal • Extra body (volumizing, thickening, etc) • Moisturizing (smoothing, shine, restore) • Strengthening • Curl • 2 in 1 • Color treated • Color Enhancing • Baby (tear-free) • Natural
Shampoo Market • Specialty • Anti-dandruff • Anti-lice • Hair loss treatments • Significantly Different • Powdered shampoos • No-rinse shampoo • Co-washing
Consumer Problems • Clean hair / oil removal • Moisturize • Easier to comb • Prevent frizz • Shine • Volume • Medicated • Anti-dandruff • Anti-lice • Hair loss
Technology Surfactants Conditioning agents Anti-dandruff agents Acaracides Minoxidyl Addressing the problems Problem • Clean hair / oil removal • Moisturize • Easier to comb • Prevent frizz • Shine • Volume • Medicated • Anti-dandruff • Anti-lice • Hair loss
Surfactants • Defined • Molecules compatible with water & oil • Surfactant = Surface Active Agent
Surfactant Molecule Hydrophilic = Lipophobic Hydrophobic = Lipophilic
Surfactant in solution • Reduces surface tension • Helps disperse oil in water (or water in oil) • Forms micelles to suspend particles
Surfactant • Typical surfactant mixture • Surfactant is mixed with oil • Lipophilic tails orient with oil • Polar heads orient with water • Micelles are created • Micelle formation • Critical Micelle Concentration
Surfactant Solutions • Depending on concentration different structures are formed • Simple shampoos are basically surfactant solutions (no oils)
Surfactant Functions • Key in Shampoos • Cleaning / Detergency • Wetting • Dispersing • Foaming • Thickening • Conditioning • Other functions • Emulsification • Solubilization • Penetration enhancement • Antimicrobial activity • Opacification
Detergency • Two types of “dirt” in hair • Solid particulate • Oily deposits • Solid particulates • From pollution, hair products • Adhere via Van der Waals forces • Anionics & non-ionics increase hydrophylicity of surface
Detergency • How surfactants remove liquids • Remove dirt & grease from surfaces • Mechanism • Surfactant orients along oil/water interface • This lifts oil off surface suspending in solution • Rinse water removes the oil micelle
Wetting • Breaks down the inherent surface tension of water • Water with surfactant can spread better on the hair Without Surfactant With Surfactant
Dispersing • Particles are suspended in the shampoo / water solution • They are removed upon rinsing
Foaming • Air is dispersed in a continuous liquid medium • Air bubbles are surrounded by thin layers of liquid films • Foam doesn’t contribute much to removal of dirt • Consumers like foam but it doesn’t really mean the product cleans better
Thickening • Viscosity of surfactant solution can be affected by • Concentration of surfactant • Salt concentration • pH
Types of Surfactants • Anionic • Negatively charged • Amphoteric (Zwitterionic) • capable of both positive & negative charges • Cationic • Positively charged • Nonionic • No charge
Anionic Surfactants • These are the primary shampoo surfactants • Alkyl Sulfates • Examples - SLS • Alkyl Ether Sulfates • Example – ALES • Alpha – Olefin Sulfonates • Examples
Anionic Surfactants • Other types • Sulfosuccinates • Alkylbenzene Sulfonates • Acyl Methyltaurates • Acyl Sarcosinates • Acyl Isethionates • Acyl Polypeptide Condensates • Monoglyceride Sulfates • Fatty Glyceryl Ether Sulfonates
Anionics • Why use them? • Excellent detergency • Relatively inexpensive • Good foaming • Highly stable • Drawbacks • Can be irritating • Drying to hair
Amphoteric Surfactants • Can have a positive or negative charge depending on the pH of the solution • Zwitterionic • Types • Cocamidopropyl Betaine • Cocoamphopropionate • Sodium Lauraminopropionate
Amphoteric Surfactants • Why use them? • Good Detergency • Less Irritating than anionics • Helps thicken system • Helps improve foam • Drawbacks • More expensive • Do not foam well enough on their own
Non Ionic Surfactants • Surfactant molecules with no charge • Types • Fatty Alkanolamides • Lauramide DEA • Cocamide DEA • Amine Oxides • Lauramine Oxide • Stearamine Oxide
Non Ionic Surfactants • Why use them? • Foam enhancer • Reduce irritation • Increase viscosity • Conditioning effect • Anti-static effect • Solubilize fragrances • Baby Shampoos • PEG-80 Sorbitan Laurate • Drawbacks • Safety issues • More expensive • Do not foam well on their own
Cationics • Positively charged surfactant molecules • Types • Cetrimonium Chloride • Stearylalkonium Chloride • Not used for shampoos • Don’t clean as well • Don’t rinse as well • Don’t foam as well
Shampoo Characteristics • Aesthetics • Appearance • Clear • Pearlized • Thickness (Viscosity) • Foam • Creamy, rich to thin & loose • Harshness • Conditioning effects
Basic types of Shampoos • Normal • Volumizing • Moisturizing • 2 in 1 • Baby • Natural
Shampoo Formula • Water • Surfactant • Secondary Surfactant • Preservative • Conditioning agent • Color • Fragrance • Feature Ingredients • Specialty ingredients
Shampoo Formula • Secondary Surfactant • Modify viscosity • Improve foam • Reduce irritation • Aesthetic ingredients • Opacifying agent • Clarifying agents • Colorants
Shampoo Formula • Conditioning agents • Silicones • Cationic polymers • Preservatives • Fragrance • Feature Ingredients • Formula Adjusters • Acid • Chelating agents
Activity of Ingredients • Many raw materials are sold diluted • % Solids = Raw material – water • Eg. ALS sold as 28% solids • 32% of the supplied raw material is only ~9% solid ALS • % Active is usually synonymous with % Solids
Volumizing Shampoo • Higher level of surfactant • Volumizing polymer (optional) • Guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride
Moisturizing Shampoo • More gentle detergents • Added conditioning ingredients • Polyquaternium-7 • Dimethicone Copolyol • Pearlized – (optional) • Glycol Stearate