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Wave Action

Wave Action. Earth’s Waters Chapter 4.1 Pages 114-121. Wave Formation ( P114-115½ ). What is a Wave ? How do most waves form? List the 3 things wave size depends on. Do waves move water toward shore? What actually happens to objects as a wave passes?. Wave Formation ( P114-115½ ).

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Wave Action

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  1. Wave Action Earth’s Waters Chapter 4.1 Pages 114-121

  2. Wave Formation (P114-115½ ) • What is a Wave? • How do most waves form? • List the 3 things wave size depends on. • Do waves move water toward shore? • What actually happens to objects as a wave passes?

  3. Wave Formation (P114-115½ ) • What is a Wave? The movement of energy through a body of water • How do most waves form? When winds blowing across the water’s surface transmit their energy to the water b) List the 3 things wave size depends on. The strength of the wind, how long it blows, and the distance it travels.

  4. Wave Formation (P114-115½ ) 2. Do waves move water toward shore? No, they only transfer energy. Otherwise, water would pile up on the coasts. • What actually happens to objects as a wave passes? As a wave passes, water particles move in a circular path. The deeper below the wave, the smaller the circle.

  5. Describing Waves (P116-117) • Define a Crest. • Define a Wavelength. • Define Frequency. • Define a Trough. • Define Wave Height. • What happens to waves as they reach shore? • What is Undertow? *Or* Draw a picture like on p116 and label these parts.

  6. Describing Waves (P116-117) • Crest– highest part of a wave • Wavelength- horizontal distance between crests • Frequency– number of waves that pass a point in a certain amount of time • Trough– lowest part of a wave • Wave Height– vertical distance from crest to trough.

  7. Describing Waves (P116-117) 6. What happens to waves as they reach shore? The wave begins scraping the ocean floor, causing friction and slowing the wave.Wave height increases as wavelength decreases. At a certain height, the wave topples or breaks on shore 7. What is Undertow? Force of gravity pulling water back to the ocean.

  8. The Shore & Erosion(P118-120) • What effect does Longshore Drift have? • How can you escape a Rip Current? • What is Erosion? • How does erosion affect beaches? • Describe 3 ways to reduce beach erosion. • Are Groins a positive choice?

  9. The Shore & Erosion(P118-120) • What effect does Longshore Drift have? Waves hit the beach at an angle, transporting sand along the beach. • How can you escape a Rip Current? Rush of water that flows back through a narrow opening – swim parallel to beach 2. What is Erosion? Carrying away of sediments • How does erosion affect beaches? Causes the shoreline to move further inland.

  10. The Shore & Erosion(P118-120) 3. Describe 3 ways to reduce beach erosion. 1. Groins–a wall that stretches out from the beach 2. Dunes–hills of sand covered with plants, which hold it together 3. BarrierBeaches–small island-like sand deposits parallel to beach • Are Groins a positive choice? No, they increase the amount of erosion down the beach.

  11. Tsunamis(Page 121) • How do Tsunamis compare to regular waves in size and strength? • Describe how tsunamis form.

  12. Tsunamis(Page 121) • How do Tsunamis compare to regular waves in size and strength? Can have a wavelength of 200km and a crest 20m high • Describe how tsunamis form. An underwater earthquake sends a massive pulse of energy through the water around it.

  13. Section 4.1 Review(Page 141) • Define Key Terms for Section 4.1 • Know the wave diagrams on pages 116 & 117

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