Puppy Raisers of UD

1. Puppy Raisers of UD New Member Meeting

2. Contact Information Club Leader: Kim Winnington, kim@udpuppyclub.com President: Kathryn Emes, kemes@udel.edu Vice President: Andrew DeAscanis, adeas@udel.edu Secretary: Allie Wagner, aewagner@udel.edu Treasurer: Emily Sobeck, esobeck@udel.edu Public Relations: Liz Vacchiano, evacch@udel.edu Webmaster: Chris Melillo, cmelillo@udel.edu Seeing Eye Area Coordinator: Vicki Hennig **Website: udpuppyclub.com**

3. What you all want to know! • How do I become a puppy sitter? • Attend two meetings (or new member meeting) • Complete certification quiz and training circle • How do I become a puppy raiser? • Sophomore status (can apply as a freshman) • Be in good academic and disciplinary standing • Puppy Hunt** (first 7 items, and earn at least 300 points) • Must apply as a group, Primary Raiser and Secondary raiser • Must attend at least two meetings prior to applying

4. Puppy Hunt • Can be found on our website under “Resources” • Take photo (or video) of hunt items and post in facebook group (create your own album) with caption (#, and description) • Photos should demonstrate puppies behaving properly! • Several items require you to speak with an e-board member • Rules are included on the Puppy Hunt • First seven items are required if you wish to raise a puppy ex. From Puppy Hunt #44: All in the Family

5. The Seeing Eye and Puppy Raising • The Seeing Eye enhances the independence, dignity, and self-confidence of blind people through the use of Seeing Eye® dogs. • The Seeing Eye is located in Morristown, NJ. • Breeds and trains German Shepherds, Labrador Retrievers, Golden Retrievers, and Lab-Golden Crosses. The Seeing Eye will also occasionally use Poodles. • 12 times per year a group of up to 24 blind students train with their new Seeing Eye ® dogs at the Morristown campus. It costs $150 for a person’s first Seeing Eye ® dog and $50 for each dog thereafter. • Puppy raisers love, care for, and socialize Seeing Eye puppies until they are ready to return to The Seeing Eye for formal guide work training.

6. A Seeing Eye puppy needs to learn how to: • ignore all types of distractions that are normal for a dog to show interest in. • behave properly at any time, even in situations that encourage distraction and play. • be comfortable in as many different environments as possible, ranging from busy city walks to residential and country walks. • avoid any physical behavior that would be harmful to a blind handler, such as jumping up. • be friendly and relaxed around other animals without seeking their company and attention more than that of their human companion. • calmly and confidently negotiate all types of stairs, surfaces and elevators. • be friendly and relaxed around all types of people. • The desire to please and be with humans, wanting praise and affection.

7. Rules to follow with Seeing Eye® puppies • NEVER let a puppy off leash in public or outside (unless in a fenced yard) • NEVER feed a puppy people food • NEVER take a puppy on an escalator or in a revolving door • When leaving a puppy unattended he must be in his crate(take off ALL of his collars) • Tie downs should be attached to the puppy’s flat collar • Puppies should stay off furniture • Always wear sneakers or closed toed shoes while handling puppies • Our puppies go to the bathroom on command “Park Time” we do not let them eliminate en route • NEVER hit a puppy!!

8. Appropriate toys and play • YES: large balls, Nylabones, Kongs, hard rubber toys • NO: Raw hides, soup bones, rope toys, anything smaller than the puppy’s mouth • Please no tug-of-war, Fetch is OK (toys only please) • Our puppies are NOT altered – no humping! • We like Balanced Play!

9. In case of an emergency Call Puppy Raiser and Kim or Vicki!!! All medical treatment that will cost more than $150 must be approved by The Seeing Eye. The attending vet (not the puppy raiser) must call and speak to a Seeing Eye veterinarian In case of extreme traumas: have pup stabilized and given essential treatment, but make sure a Seeing Eye vet is contacted as soon as possible Vet forms can be found online by puppy raisers

10. Before you puppy sit • Have housing approval • Have permission from professor to take puppies to class (do not take puppies on test days or to lab) • Only offer to sit if you can fully commit! (puppies should not be passed around without raiser’s knowledge) • Start with short stays, once you get the hang of it offer to do an overnight • Puppies need a lot of attention!! Don’t offer to sit if you have to study for a test or have a big project to do

11. Puppy Sitting • The puppy raiser should give you puppy kit and instructions, leash & training collar/martingale, food, tie down/crate(make sure you have these! – before the raiser leaves) • Be on time picking up and returning a puppy • Keep raisers updated! Always ask before doing something with a pup. Don’t just assume anything. • You may only sit one puppy at a time! • Make sure puppies are placed in crates if left alone, NEVER leave a puppy on a tie down • Understand that all puppies are different! What may be OK for one puppy, might not for another. Respect the raisers wishes  Ask for help if you need it!

12. Things to always have with you Puppy Kit: Copy of TSE health card Copy of rabies certificate Emergency contact numbers Seeing Eye I.D. card Poop bags!! Paper towels Soapy water/ vinegar and water Bowl Toy (optional) On puppy: Bandana or vest Tags on flat collar (name & number, TSE tag, rabies)

13. Types of Collars • Flat Collar • Puppy should always have this on (except when in crate) with required ID tags (name & number, Seeing Eye, and Rabies) • Tie-downs should be clipped to this collar • Quick Release • Should fit snuggly so it doesn’t slip over head (but not too tight!) • Martingale • Only used for pups 16wks and up (with approval) • “D” rings should touch when tightened on puppies neck • Comes off inside and during play • Training Collar • Used for pups 6 months and up (with approval) • The free-end that connects to the leash should go over his head not under his neck. The collar will pop and release when there is no tension on the leash • Comes off when inside and during play

14. Why we’re different The puppies we are raising have a unique job ahead of them. Some fundamental parts of that job set it apart from most dog training. Our dogs need to be eager to pull out in front of their handlers and lead; they should not be content to follow! Our dogs must be confident enough to disobey a command that can lead to a dangerous situation. This is called intelligent disobedience. The basis of other types of training is “command and obey” with guide dog training, the basis is “command and obey if it’s OK.” This is the difference between training a dog and educating a dog.

15. Commands Things we teach our puppies: Things we DO NOT teach our puppies: “Come” “Sit” “Down” “Rest” “Forward” “Recall” or “Come and Sit” “Stay back” “Go to your place” “Park time” “Off”-if the puppy jumps up on a person or furniture “Heal” (our puppies need to have initiative, drive, and be out in front!) “Leave it” … instead: “ahhahh,” “no,” “huphup” **We do not use treats or hand signals to train our puppies, and we only reprimand our puppies with our voice.**

16. Walking on a leash Our puppies always walk on the LEFT side. Place the leash in the palm of your right hand (looping it in your hand, not around it). Use your left hand to control the leash, keeping your knuckles facing forward. Training collars should be up behind the puppy’s ears. If a pup is lagging behind or want to say hello to a passerby give him a “huphup” command. Always be sure the puppy is out in front of you with a steady pull, not walking along side of you. *We need to balance his pull with being under control, and without being dragged.* Pulling is essential to guide work. Allowing our puppies to get used to leading early on will make the transition that much easier on them.

17. Socialization Our Puppies can go to: Our Puppies can NOT go to: • Retail Stores (with permission) • Class (with prof. permission) • All university buildings • Approved housing on campus • Sporting events • And much more! **consult the puppy exposure guidelines and raiser before any new experience. • Dog Parks • Zoos/Aquariums • Dinning Halls • Inside grocery stores • On Amusement park rides • On escalators, moving sidewalks, or in revolving doors If denied access… Say “Thank You” and go somewhere else. Remember our puppies DO NOT have the right to be there. It is the disabled person, who has the right to take their service dog (ADA).

18. General Outing Tips • Relax!! Stress travels down the leash • Puppy dragging you? STOP and SIT, change direction, or do a recall. Get the focus back on you, and praise him • Puppy barking? Give a verbal “quiet,” do simple obedience, get focus on you and praise. Ex. Whining in class • Watch for alert ears! Give the verbal “quiet” before the sound comes out

19. General Outing Tips • “Park” puppies before going into buildings and ALWAYS pick up (don’t throw poop away inside or near an entrance) • Make sure your puppy is tucked and out of the way. Don’t stop and chat in front of doors. Know where his head is. “Three Second Rule” • Yes, he can be petted. Make sure he is under control – all four paws on the floor or in a sit • The puppy can great other dogs, but ASK the handler first

20. Common Inappropriate Behaviors • Chasing/Lunging (*squirrels, leaves, birds, etc.) • Get puppy moving, say “huphup!” • If you end up dragging him try sitting and watching and as soon as he goes for it give a leash correction (a quick pop to the side with a “No”) • Barking • Use the “Quiet” command • If this doesn’t work turn around and do basic obedience • Once he is refocused turn around and praise • Chewing on leash/pants while walking • Correct with a simple “No” and gently remove leash or clothing from mouth and continue moving • Prevent the behavior by keeping the leash directly behind his head as you walk

21. Common Inappropriate Behaviors • Chewing on objects • Keep inappropriate objects out of their reach (Puppy Proof!) • If you catch them take the object away and replace it with an approved toy (make sure he did not ingest anything) • Jumping • They want to be close to your face (communication) • Greet puppy at his level • If expecting company – put on leash and have him sit at your side. If he jumps tell him “Off” give the leash a tug and put him back in a sit • No leash? Slide your thumb in his collar and put him in a sit. • Balking • When a dog will stop and refuse to move forward • Getting another confident dog to walk with the puppy is helpful • Many times can stem from fear or the puppy wanting to do something else • Try to figure out the underlying cause and work on that • Never force a fearful puppy!!

22. Scenarios • What do you do if…

23. Getting Started! Have FUN!! Relax and enjoy the experience. Remember our puppies are learning and so are you, don’t expect perfection. Celebrate their spirit and… ASK FOR HELP IF YOU NEED IT!

24. Questions?