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Chapter 16 Haircutting

Chapter 16 Haircutting. Basic Principles of Haircutting Good haircuts: *understand the shape of the head Hair responds differently: *various areas *depends on length *cutting technique used. Be aware of head form: *curves *turns *changes. Reference Points:

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Chapter 16 Haircutting

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  1. Chapter 16 Haircutting

  2. Basic Principles of Haircutting Good haircuts: *understand the shape of the head Hair responds differently: *various areas *depends on length *cutting technique used

  3. Be aware of head form: *curves *turns *changes

  4. Reference Points: *where surface changes ~ears ~jaw line ~occipital bone ~apex *establish design lines Baldheadfarms.com Sxc.hu

  5. Helps: *find balance ~both sides turn out the same ~recreate the same haircut ~where/when to change technique -flat crown -bangs

  6. Parietal Ridge: *widest area *temples to bottom of crown Find: *comb flat on side of head Found: *where starts to curve away from the comb

  7. Occipital bone: *protrudes at base of skull Find: *feel *comb flat against nape

  8. Apex: *highest point *top of head Find: *comb flat on top of head

  9. Four corners: Find: *make two diagonal lines *crossing the apex *front and back corners

  10. *will not use every point for every haircut *know where they are Example: Front corners=widest point in bang area

  11. Areas of the Head Top: *parietal ridge and above *hair “lies” on head Front: *apex to back of ear *falls in front of ear Short-hair-styles.com

  12. Sides: *back of ear forward *below parietal ridge Crown: *between apex and back of parietal ridge *often flat *cowlicks and whorls *pay special attention Hairstyletalk.com

  13. Nape: *below the occipital bone Back: *apex to the back of the ear *all hair that falls behind the ear

  14. Flickr.com Myddnetwork.com

  15. Flickr.com

  16. Bang: (fringe) *apex to front corners *no farther than outer corner of eyes (end of eyebrow)

  17. Tanyalovesyou.b;ogspot.com Junk2jewels.typepad.com

  18. Lines and Angles Line: thin continuous mark *used as a guide Angle *space between two lines *intersect at a given point ~straight ~curved

  19. Horizontal lines: (0 degrees) *parallel to floor *directs eyes from one side to another *build weight *one-length haircuts *low-elevation haircuts

  20. Top40.about.com Tonyandguy.com Awonderfuleverything.blogspot.com

  21. Vertical lines: (90 degrees) *up and down *perpendicular to floor *removes weight *graduated or layered haircuts *higher elevations

  22. Hairstylescut.com Hairstylestips.blogspot.com Greatlooks.com

  23. Shorthairstyles.com Hjico.uk/image Hairstyles-picture.com

  24. Diagonal lines: *slanting *sloping *create fullness *blend long layers

  25. Hairstyleshaircuts.info Batchplease.com Hairstyles53.com

  26. Latesthairstyles.com Shorthaircut-styles.blogspot.com

  27. Beveling: *stacking *diagonal lines *slight increase/decrease in length

  28. Haircutsformen.org Hairfinder.com

  29. Elevation: *hair parted in sections (four) *smaller ~subsections *part or partings ~line dividing the hair

  30. Elevation: Known as Projection or Lifting *angle or degree hair is held, or elevated, from the head *creates graduation ~layers *described in degrees

  31. Blunt/one-length haircuts *no elevation *0 degrees Elevation occurs when: *lift hair above 0 degrees

  32. From pictures: ~determine what elevations were used ~create any shape you desire

  33. 45 and 90 degree *more elevate=more graduation *below 90 degrees ~builds weight *90 degrees or higher ~removing weight

  34. Associatedcontent.com Hairstyles-tips.blogspot.com

  35. Curly hair *use less elevation *leave longer for shrinkage

  36. Cutting line: known as cutting position, cutting angle, finger angle, finger position *angle the fingers are held ~horizontal ~vertical ~diagonal ~by degrees

  37. Guidelines: known as guide *determines the length the hair will be cut ~perimeter (the outer line) ~interior inner or internal line) *first section cut

  38. Stationary guide: *does not move *all sections are combed to guide Used in: *blunt haircuts *over-direction ~length or width

  39. Hairstylestalk.com Hairstyles53.com

  40. Traveling guideline: known as movable guideline *moves with haircut *creates layered haircuts or graduated haircuts Trendyhaircutstyles.blogspot.com Do-short-hairstyle.blogspot.com

  41. Figure 16-22 & 16-23 (traveling guideline) *guideline travels with you as you work through the haircut *move it to the next subsection where it becomes your new guideline

  42. Figure 16-25 and 16-26 one-length haircut ~no elevation ~diagonal cutting line ~stationary guideline

  43. Figure 16-27 & 16-28 90 degree ~vertical cutting line ~traveling guideline Figure 16-29 & 16-30 45 degree (stacked effect) ~diagonal cutting line (nape) 90 degree on top ~traveling guideline

  44. Over-direction: *comb hair away from natural falling position *used to create length increase

  45. Longer front: ~stationary guide at back of ear Beauty.about.com

  46. Shorter front: ~stationary guide at front Hairstyles53.com

  47. Client consultation: *find out what client is looking for *offer suggestions *professional advice *joint decision *discuss whether that look is a good choice for the client

  48. When not the best look for him/her: *use gentle persuasion *positive reinforcement *offer alternatives Work with: ~hair texture ~face shape ~lifestyle

  49. Analyze: *clean *unstyled hair Client: *ask you about their hair *tell you about their hair *ask you for suggestions

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