Haircutting

1. Haircutting sYnc 1

2. Leaning Objectives: • Identify reference points on the head form and understand their role in haircutting. • Define angles, elevations, and guidelines. • List the factors involved in a successful client consultation. • Explain the use of the various tools of haircutting. • Name three things you can do to ensure good posture and body position while cutting hair.

3. Anatomy of the Skull

4. Reference Points Understanding the reference points will help ensure Balancewithin the design; they allow you to recreate the haircut again and again. They also allow you to know where and when to Change your technique to make up for Irregularities in the head shape.

5. Reference Points • Parietal Ridge_. • The Widest area of the head, starting at the Temples ending at the bottom of the Crown ; it is found by placing a comb flat on the head at the sides. • Where the head starts to Curve Awayfrom the comb is the parietal ridge. It is also referred to as the Crest.

6. Reference Points • Occipital Bone • The bone that protrudes at the Base of the skull. • Found by Feeling the skull or placing a comb flat against the Hairline and observing where the comb Leaves the head.

7. Reference Points • The Apex • The Highest Pointon the top of the head; it is located by placing a comb flat On Top of the head. It will rest on that highest point.

8. Reference Points • Four Corners • Place 2 combs flat against the Side and Back, locating the back corner at the point where the two combs Meet . • Make two Diagonal lines crossing the apex of the head, pointing directly to the Frontand Back corners.

9. Areas of the Head • These are determined by the Reference Points . They are the top, Front, back, Sides , Nape, crown, and Fringe views.

10. Areas of the Head • Top • Locate the Topby parting the hair at the Parietal Ridge,continuing all the way around the head. • The hair in the top area “Lays”on the head, while hair everywhere else “Hangs” due to gravity.

11. Areas of the Head • Front • Part from the apex to the Back of the ears. • The hair that falls in Front of the ear is considered to be the front.

12. Areas of the Head • Back • Locate it by parting from the Apex to the back of the ear. • The hair that falls Behind the ear is considered to be the back.

13. Areas of the Head • Sides • Include all the hair from the back of the ear Forward_, and below the Parietal Ridge • Crown • This is the area between the Apexand the back of the Parietal Ridge.

14. Areas of the Head • Nape • This is the area at the back part of the Skull and below the Occipital Bone. • Locate it by taking a Horizontalparting across the back of the head at the Occipital Bone_.

15. Areas of the Head • Fringe • Also called the Bang Section , it is a triangular section that begins at the apex and ends at the Two front corners.

16. Lines and Angles

17. Lines and Angles • A _Line_is a thin continuous mark used as a Cutting Guide. • The space between lines or surfaces that intersect at a given point is an Angle.

18. Lines and Angles • These are parallel to theHorizon or Floor . • They Direct the Eyefrom one side to the other. • They build Weight in haircutting.

19. Horizontal Lines

20. Lines and Angles • Vertical Lines • These are Up and Down rather than left and right. • They are Perpendicular to the floor. • These lines Reduceweight and create Length.

21. Vertical Lines

22. Lines and Angles • Diagonal Lines • These lines are In betweenhorizontal and vertical. • They create Roundnessin haircutting.

23. Diagonal Lines

24. Haircutting

25. Haircutting • Elevation • This represents the Angle or degree at which a subsection of hair is held, or elevated, from the head when cutting. • It creates Graduationand Layers and is usually described in degrees. • The more you elevate the hair, the more Graduation you create.

26. Haircutting • Sometimes the term elevation is replaced with Projection or simply Lifting .

27. Haircutting • Overdirection • Overdirection occurs when hair is directedOr Combed outside of Natural Fall. • Overdirectingwill result in added length in the Opposite direction. • Used to compensate for Weakareas and add Lengthin a haircut.

28. Overdirection

29. Lines and Angles • Cutting Line • This is the Angleat which the Fingers are held when cutting the line that creates the end shape.

30. Lines and Angles It’s also called: • Finger Angle • Cutting Angle • Finger Position • Cutting Position

31. Haircutting • Guidelines • Also called a guide, this is the section of hair that determines the Lengththe hair will be Cut. • It is located at either the Parimeter(outer line) or the Interior of the cut. • It is usually the First section cut

32. Haircutting • Stationary Guides • This guide does not Move , All other sections are combed To this Guide and are cut at the same angle or Length. • A blunt cut is example of a Stationary Guide.

33. Haircutting • Traveling Guides • Also called a Movable Guide, this guide Moves as the haircut progresses. • When using this type of guide, you take A Small Sliceof the previously cut section and move it to the next Subsectionwhere it becomes the New Guide.

34. The Client Consultation

35. The Client Consultation • Important Steps   • Always greet your guest By Name. • Never speak to you guest Through the Mirror_, sit next to them at Eye Level. • Ask Open-ended questions to find out exactly what your client expects from the service and what she/he would like to Accomplish. • Look at Photos with your client to determine EXACTLYwhat she/he wants.

36. The Client Consultation • Ask about Past haircuts and what she did or didn’t like. • Evaluate the hair’s Texture , Densityand Wave Pattern to ensure the end result your guest desires is possible. • Recommend Products needed to achieve the Desired Look . • Discuss the Maintenance involved with the haircut your guest chooses.

37. The Client Consultation • The Face Shape • Identifying your client’s face shape will ensure the style chosen will be Flattering to your guest’s natural features. • There are Six basic face shapes. • Oval • Round • Square • Diamond • Triangle and Inverted Triangle • Oblong

38. Hair Analysis

39. Hair Analysis • The five most important factors of hair analysis are Diameter, Density, Elasticity , Porosity , and Wave Pattern.

40. Hair Analysis • Hair Diameter • Hair Diameterdescribes the Size of an individual hair strand. • It is described as Fine, medium, or Coarse. • Hair Density • Hair Density refers to the Numberof hairs per Square Inch. • Measured as Sparse, Medium, or Thick.

41. Hair Analysis Fine Hair that is Thick Fine Hair that is Sparse

42. Hair Analysis • Wave Pattern • This is the amount of Movement in the hair strand. • Is the client’s hair Straight, wavy, Curly, or Excessively curly?

43. Hair Analysis Curly Texture Straight Texture

44. Haircutting Tools

45. Haircutting Tools • Shears • These are used to cut Straightor Blunt lines as well as other Texturizingtechniques. • The terms Shears and Scissors may be used interchangeably. • Use cloth saturated with Shear Oiland wipe the inside of the blades after Each Use. • Lubricate the swivel joint by placing One Dropof scissor oil at the joint and Opening and Closing the Shearrepeatedly.

46. Haircutting Tools • Never use A Towel to clean the blades of your shears or Submerge them in Liquid. • AlwaysPalmthe shears and razor This keeps the points Closedand pointed Away from the client when combing. • Palming shears also Reduces Strain on your index finger and thumb while combing hair. • Never cut Past your Second Knuckle.

47. Haircutting Tools • Texturizing Shears • These are used to remove bulk from the hair; they are sometimes referred to as texturizing shears, Blending shears, or Thinningshears. • When using texturizing shears always Elevate the hair in the original position it was Cut . • The more Teethin the texturizing shear, the more hair will be Removed.

48. Haircutting Tools • The Razor • These are used when a Softer effect is desired on the hair ends. • They can be used for entire haircuts, to Thin hair, and to Texturize areas and Remove Weight. They can be used with or without guards. • Razors should be used at A 45 degree angle to hair and NEVERPerpendicular.

49. Haircutting Tools • When using a razor, Short strokes will result in Less texture and Longerstrokes will remove more Hair resulting in More texture. • When razor cutting, the cutting motion comes from the Wrist . • Make sure the hair being cut is Dampwhen using a razor

50. Haircutting Tools • Clippers • These are used for creating Short Tapers, short haircuts, Fades , Flat Tops , or to shave hair off right to the scalp. • Clippers should be Cleanedand maintained after Every client. • Trimmersalso called Edgers, these are a smaller version of clippers; they are mainly used to remove excess or unwanted hair at the Harlineand around the Ears_.