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CHAPTER 21 HAIRCOLORING

CHAPTER 21 HAIRCOLORING. Haircoloring is One of the most creative, challenging, and popular salon services It is also the most lucrative !. www.beauty-and-the-bath.com/image-files/mens-... www.beautifulhairstyles.com/.../foils.jpg.

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CHAPTER 21 HAIRCOLORING

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  1. CHAPTER 21 HAIRCOLORING

  2. Haircoloring is • One of the most creative, challenging, and popular salon services • It is also the most lucrative ! www.beauty-and-the-bath.com/image-files/mens-... www.beautifulhairstyles.com/.../foils.jpg

  3. Add: Haircoloring is both the art and science of changing the color of hair. www.insidesocal.com/bargain/HairColoring

  4. Why people color their hair Add to side bar: just the #’s • Unpigmented hair (graying) • Book: Cover or blend gray www.beauty-and-the-bath.com/image-files/matur...

  5. 2. Self-image boost Book: Enhance an existing color 3. Experimental Book: create a fashion statement or statement of self-expression www.paulanthonysalon.net/images/haircoloring.jpg

  6. 4. Artistic Book: Correct unwanted tones nyenoona.files.wordpress.com/2008/01/rainbow-... www.lahiguera.net/.../2279/kelly_clarkson.jpg

  7. 5. . Corrective Book: Accentuate a particular haircut Note: Either list can be used on the test, your choice aheadofourtimesalons.com/images/gallery/716-A..

  8. F Y I : “Chlorine green” hair is caused by copper deposits from the water, that grab onto the hair. Only very light hair shows this reaction. Use a demineralizing shampoo, like Alternate Action and place under a dryer or use baking soda and water to remove deposits. media.onsugar.com/.../GreenHair.larger.jpg

  9. Hair Facts Knowing how products affect the hair will allow you to make the best product choices for your client. Hair Structure Quick review of the structure of the hair.

  10. Q. What is the outer most layer of the hair called? Q. What is the purpose of the cuticle? Q. List two points about the cortex. Q. How much of a role does the medula play in haircoloring?

  11. Q. Why is texture, density and porosity factors we must consider when performing color services? • Texture: individual hair strand • Coarse, medium, fine Melanin is distributed differently-refer to Figure 21-3

  12. Fine hair texture • Takes color faster • Can look darker • Medium hair texture • Has average response to haircolor products www.elle.com/.../Frizzy-Fine-Hair-s.jpg

  13. Coarse hair texture • Can take longer to process www.stopnowhairloss.com/.../04/hair-texture.jpg

  14. Density-hair per square inch • thin, medium, thick-dense • Needs to be considered when applying haircolor Q. How would this matter, and what do we need to do?

  15. Porosity-ability to absorb liquid • Porous hair accepts color faster • ~ darker than expected end result Q. Explain the step needed to do the test for porosity

  16. Resistant hair (low porosity) • ~ requires more processing time • Normal porosity (average) • ~ processes in an average amount of time • Overporous (high) • ~ takes color quickly • ~ fades quickly www.style-hair-magazine.com/images/foilhighli...

  17. Identifying Natural Hair Color and Tone Q. What is the 1st thing Mrs. K and I do prior to creating a color formula?

  18. Two types of melanin in the cortex: • Eumelanin-black and brown • Pheomelanin-blond and red • Natural hair color contains both (Mixed melanin) wwww.pgbeautyscience.com/assets/images/researc... ww.pgbeautyscience.com/.../v2/Hair-color-2.jpg

  19. Contributing Pigment • Known as “undertone”, is the varying degrees of warmth exposed during permanent color or lightening process • The darker the natural level,the more intense the contributing pigment

  20. Must be taken into consideration before the haircolor selection is made • Haircoloring modifies this pigment to create new pigment 3.bp.blogspot.com/.../killercutscolors552.jpg

  21. The Level System • Level is the unit of measurement used to identify the lightness or darkness • Saturation, density, or concentration of a color cdn-write.demandstudios.com/.../90/3/4893.jpg www.style-hair-magazine.com/image-files/large...

  22. Level system • *use to determine the lightness or darkness of colors • Arranged on a scale of 1-1 0 • -1 being the darkest (black) • -10 being the lightest • (pale blonde)

  23. Add: Value-unit of measurement to evaluate lightness or darkness

  24. Identifying Natural Level • First step in haircolor service • Valuable tool-color wheel • Use haircolor swatch book • Demonstrate the four steps • Read: Here’s a Tip

  25. 10-Lightest Bl. Natural Hair Color Levels (this is the number system Mrs. Kucas and I follow. Page 632 is a little different) 9- Lt. Blonde 8- Med. Blonde 7- Dk. Blonde 6- Lt. Brown 5- Med. Brown 4- Dk. Brown 3- V. Dk. Br 2- Black 1- Blue Black

  26. Gray Hair • Associated with aging • ~ heredity • Solid or blended • ~ “salt and pepper” • Requires special attention in formulating www.lookbeauty.com/images/Gray-Hair-Styles.jpg

  27. Color Theory • Color is the visible spectrum of light • Human eye only sees red, green, or blue, or other shades www.diycalculator.com/imgs/cvision-ryb-primar...

  28. Before applying color products • *have an understanding of color theory • ***All are developed by primary and secondary color

  29. real-estate-staging.com/Primary%20colors%20of... www.dreamhomedecorating.com/images/color-whee... www.color-chart.org/color-charts/secondary-co…

  30. A base color is the predominant tone of a color • Ex. Violet base color=cool result • *minimizes unwanted yellow tones • Blue-base haircolor=coolest results • *minimizes orange tones

  31. Add: Violet-green-blue=cool tones Yellow-orange-red=warm tones

  32. ***Red-orange base *bright warm results ***Gold bases *brunettes to light blondes yousonice.files.wordpress.com/2008/12/redhair.jpg allwomenstalk.com/wp-content/thumbs/54627.jpg z.about.com/d/beauty/1/0/g/G/haircolor8.JPG

  33. The Law of Color • Is a system for understanding color relationships • When combining colors, you always get the same result from the same combination

  34. Equal parts of: • redandbluealways =violet • blue and yellow always=green • redand yellow always=orange

  35. Primary Colors • Pure colors that cannot be created by combining other colors • All colors are created from these three primaries…

  36. Blue Primary Colors Red Yellow

  37. Predominance of blue • *cool colors • Predominance of red and or yellow • *warm colors • Blue is the strongest and the only cool primary color • *brings depth or darkness to any color

  38. Redis the medium primary color • * Red added to blue-based colors ~ appear lighter • Red added to yellow • ~ become darker

  39. Yellow is the weakest of the primary colors • yellow added to other colors • ~ lighter and brighter • All three primary colors present in equal proportions • * the color is brown

  40. Secondary Colors • Obtained by mixing equal parts of two primary colors Green=blueand yellow Orange=redand yellow Violet=blueand red

  41. Primary and Secondary Colors Refer to thecolor wheel

  42. Tertiary Colors • Intermediate color achieved by mixing a secondary color with its neighboring primary color on the color wheel in equal amounts

  43. Blue-green Blue-violet Red-violet Red-orange Yellow-orange Yellow-green *test info*

  44. Q. Why is it necessary to fully understand the law of color? A. Natural-looking haircolor is made up of a combination of primary colors, secondary colors, and tertiary colors

  45. Complementary Colors • Are a primary and secondary color positioned opposite each other on the color wheel • Complimentary color • include blue and • orange, red and • green, yellow and violet and… www.georgehernandez.com/.../HueSystemRYB.gif

  46. They neutralize each other • What do we mean neutralize each other? • Complementary colors are used to: • Neutralize or refine unwanted tones in the hair • Help you choose the • correct color • *review reference • guide page 635 www.diycalculator.com/imgs/cvision-ryb-primar...

  47. decorvillage.files.wordpress.com/2007/11/pump... www.assetfinancesolutions.info/images/chicks.jpg Mrs. Kucas’ great idea It’s easy to remember the complimentary colors: Green-red=Christmas Blue-orange=almostHalloween Yellow-violet=Easter

  48. Tone or Hue of Color Add: Describes the warmth or coolness of a color

  49. Tone or Hue of Color • Answers-which color to use for clients desired result • Warm, cool, or neutral • (or tonality) www.strayhair.com/.../2009/02/blonde_hair_01.jpg www.buzzle.com/img/articleImages/181211-26med.jpg www.yourhaircolorideas.com/wp-content/uploads...

  50. Warm tones look lighter • *gold, orange, red, yellow • Use with clients: • *auburn, amber, copper, strawberry, bronze • Ex. Our tube says • 6 RO=level 6 with red-orange tone • Tell client: dark strawberry blonde www.marieclaire.com/media/cm/marieclaire/imag… www.aaa-fashion.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/0...

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