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Textile Fabrics and Finishes

Textile Fabrics and Finishes. Objectives:. Identify most common fabric constructions Describe main fabric finishing procedures Recognize importance of quality and performance standards Summarize aspects of the textile industry Explain how fabrics are sold down the chain

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Textile Fabrics and Finishes

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  1. Textile Fabrics and Finishes

  2. Objectives: • Identify most common fabric constructions • Describe main fabric finishing procedures • Recognize importance of quality and performance standards • Summarize aspects of the textile industry • Explain how fabrics are sold down the chain • Cite textile industry trade information • Tell about future predictions for textiles

  3. Fabric Design and Construction • Two forms of design • Structural Design • “Building in” texture or interest during manufacturing process • Weaving and knitting most common • Applied Design • Adding color, pattern, or other features to the structural design • Printing on fabric

  4. Weaving Plain: crosshatch pattern Twill: diagonal wale Satin: floating yarns Knitting Weft Warp Nonwoven Fused Felted Films Fabric Construction Methods

  5. Fabric Terms • Grain – direction yarns run in the fabric • Lengthwise - warp • Crosswise - weft • Diagonal - bias • Selvage • “Finished” weft edge of fabric SELVAGE WARP WEFT BIAS SELVAGE CUT EDGE

  6. Variations of Weaves • Stripes • Checks • Plaids • Jacquard • Pile fabrics • Terry cloth • Corduroy • Velvet

  7. Knitting • Looping yarn together • Made using one yarn • Built-in stretch • Wrinkle resistant • Does not ravel like woven material, but may run • Weft (filling) stretches in both directions • Warp stretches one direction; run-proof

  8. Nonwoven Fabrics • Compact web of fibers (not yarns) constructed using • Moisture • Heat • Chemicals • Friction • Pressure • No grain

  9. Other Construction Methods • Laces and Nets • Made by knotting • Decorative trim • Braids • Decorative trims • Bonded fabrics • Fusible web • Interfacing and hem tape • Quilted fabrics

  10. Fabric Finishing • Converters • Mills that change greige goods into finished fabrics • Applying colors, designs, or surface treatments • Bleaching • Dyeing • Printing • Finishes

  11. Dyeing • Fiber • Adding color to fibers before spinning into yarns • Yarn • Placing yarns in dye bath before making into fabric • Piece • Fabrics dyed after weaving or knitting • Garment • Dyed after construction

  12. Printing • Adding color, pattern, or design to surface of fabric • Overall prints • Same across fabric • Directional prints • Specific direction to pattern • Plaids • Even - same in warp and weft • Uneven - different in warp or weft

  13. Roller Applies color design by roller Screen Similar to stenciling Rotary Screen Applies color design by cylinder-shaped nylon screens Heat Transfer Design on printed paper transferred to fabric by heat and pressure Digital Computer method uses ink-jet printing Flocking Fibers attached by patterned glue Printing Methods

  14. Fabric Finishes • Mechanical finishes affect size and appearance • By heat, moisture, stretching, singeing • Example: preshrinking • Chemical finishes affect performance • Permanent press • Waterproof • Water repellent • Flame resistant • Antistatic • Stain and soil resistant

  15. Standards • Quality • Rate textiles according to levels of defects • Performance • Rate textiles for specific end-use suitability

  16. The Textile Industry • Specialized companies perform stages of the textile segment of the chain • Technology necessary • CAD/CAM • Fashion • Tracking designs, trends, forecasts • Marketing • Planning, pricing, promoting, distributing

  17. Selling Finished Fabrics • Staple fabrics • Sold each year with little or no change in construction • Novelty fabrics • Fashion fabrics that change with style trends • Overruns • When a mill makes more fabric than was ordered by customers

  18. Trade Information • American Textile Manufacturers Institute, Inc. (ATMI) • Industry-wide marketing, government relations, trade policies • American Printed Fabrics Council, Inc. (APFC) • Printing achievements • American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists (AATCC) • Wet processing aspects TEXTILES

  19. Future of Textiles • Continued U.S. innovation • Stay internationally competitive • Update plants • Continued automation • Flexibility and versatility for shorter production runs of different fabrics • Increased knit production • Textile firms need more sophisticated marketing techniques

  20. Do You Know . . . • A finishing term that ends in “proof” means complete protection (as in waterproof). • Hand is the term used for textiles that refers to the way fabrics feel to the touch. Hand may apply to drape, softness, firmness, crispness, or elasticity.

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