Oregon Health Licensing Agency

Oregon Health Licensing Agency Board of Cosmetology Natural Hair Care Training Module Navigation Tip! Use the toggle button to expand the viewable area.

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Natural Hair Care During the 2013 Legislative Session House Bill 3409 passed, creating Natural Hair Care as a field of practice under the Board of Cosmetology.

Training Module There is no formal education (school) required to qualify for natural hair care certification. A training module has been provided to help familiarize individuals with the necessary information to practice natural hair care, in addition to the Oregon Revised Statutes and Oregon Administrative Rules governing Natural Hair Care Practitioners.

Procedures Natural Hair Care includes the following procedures when performed upon human hair, natural fibers or synthetic fibers:

Prohibitions Natural Hair Care does not include penetrating chemical hair treatments such as:

Hair - Defined Natural (human) hair - an appendage of the skin which is a slender threadlike cylinder of impacted protein and keratinized cells that is an outgrowth of the epidermis layer.

Hair Functions • Primary function - to insulate the body from the heat and cold and to protect the head from injury and physical trauma. • Secondary function - adornment.

Hair Structure Human hair is divided into two parts: • Hair Root • Hair Shaft

Structure - Hair Root The hair root is located below the surface of the epidermis (outer layer of the skin) and composed of five main parts. • Follicle • ArrectorPili • Sebaceous Glands • Bulb • Papilla

Structure - Follicle The follicle encompasses the hair root and determines texture and curl formation.

Structure - Arrector Pili The arrector pili is an involuntary muscle attached to the underside of the follicle. The muscle is sensitive to fear or cold which causes it to contract.

Structure - Sebaceous Gland The sebaceous gland provides the follicle with natural oils or sebum which adds luster and pliability to the hair and scalp.

Structure - Hair Bulb The hair bulb is located at the very bottom of the hair root which fits over and covers the papilla.

Structure - Papilla The papilla is a small root area at the base of the hair that is filled with an ample supply of rich blood and nerves and nourishes the hair and stimulates growth and regeneration.

Structure - Hair Shaft The hair shaft,also known as the stem of the hair, consists of three main layers which project above the epidermis. • Cuticle • Cortex • Medulla

Hair Shaft - Cuticle The cuticle is the outer-most layer of the hair shaft which consists of flattened keratin cells and amino acids that protects and seals the inner structure of the hair and creates shiny, smooth, silky feeling.

Hair Shaft - Cortex The cortex is the middle layer of the hair shaft which is the thickest part of the shaft and is filled with melanin, keratin, protein cells, and microfibrils that gives hair its color, length, strength, resilience, and moisture content.

Hair Shaft - Medulla The medulla is the innermost core of the shaft which consists of sponge-like baggy cells that are found in thick, course hair and can be non-existent in very thin, light-colored hair.

Hair Growth There are three distinct cycles to normal hair growth: • Anagen • Catagen • Telogen

Hair Growth - Anagen Anagen is the active growing phase when the bulb is moving up through the follicle and new hair is being produced. This phase can last up to seven years.

Hair Growth - Catagen Catogen is the transition or resting phase after years of growing when the hair cells stop reproducing and the hair begins to lose moisture and separates from the papilla. This phase can last up to two weeks.

Hair Growth - Telogen Telogen is the shedding or resting phase when the bulb is totally separate from the root and new hair cells divide and multiply creating a new hair shaft. This phase can last up to four months.

Hair Characteristics There are two general characteristics of hair differences. • Type • Texture

Hair Characteristics - Type Hair types are basic forms and general characteristics of hair fiber which are classified into four variations. • Straight - round • Wavy - oval to round • Curly - almost flat • Kinky or Coiled - flat and spiraled

Hair Characteristics - Texture Hair texture is the measurement and curl configuration of a hair fiber resulting from three characteristics. • Diameter • Porosity • Elasticity

Hair Characteristics - Diameter Diameter refers to the size of the individual strands of hair and degree of coarseness or fineness. • Course hair - largest in diameter • Fine hair - smallest in diameter

Hair Characteristics - Porosity Porosity is the hair’s ability to absorb moisture through the cuticle into the cortex. The degree of porosity is directly related to the condition of the cuticle. • Low porosity - referred to as Hydrophobic. • High porosity - referred to as Hydrophilic.

Hair Characteristics - Elasticity Elasticity is the hair’s ability to stretch and return to its original size and shape without breaking. • Normal elasticity - springy and lustrous • Dry hair - stretches only 1/5th its length • Wet hair - stretches up to 50% of its length

Hair Characteristics - Regions There are four bone structures on the cranium which results in the variation of hair texture. • Occipital • Parietal • Frontal • Temporal

Hair Characteristics - Occipital Region Occipital is the bone that forms the back of the cranium indenting above the nape. Hair in the occipital region is tighter in its coil configuration in addition to being dryer, more brittle and easier to break.

Hair Characteristics - Parietal Region Parietal is the two bones that form the sides and top of the cranium. Hair in the parietal region has a great variety of diverse textures.

Hair Characteristics - Frontal Region Frontal is the bone that forms the forehead. Hair in the parietal region has a great variety of diverse textures.

Hair Characteristics - Temporal Region Temporal is the two bones located on either side of the head directly above the ears. Hair in the temporal region displays a soft or fine coil, is less brittle, and the spiral pattern may vary from a very tight to loose or medium to large corkscrew pattern.

Diseases and Disorders Diseases and disorders may either be infectious, an allergic reaction to chemicals or an autoimmune response. Each disease or disorder has its own specific symptoms or conditions. Practitioners should look for any type of abnormalities of the scalp prior to providing services and advise the client to seek medical attention if necessary.

Diseases and Disorders Diseases and disorders can be accelerated by internal or external trauma such as physical stress or hormonal or chemical imbalances. Hair may be diminished by the weakened condition or traumatized state of the scalp resulting from a disease or disorder.

Diseases- Fungus Fungal organisms are characterized by itching, scales and sometimes by painful circular lesions. The following forms of Fungus are contagious and can be easily transmitted from one person to another by the infected skin scales or hairs that contain the fungi which spread the disease. • TineaCapitis • Tinea Favosa

Diseases - Fungus Tinea Capitis- red papules or spots at the opening of the hair follicle. Patches spread and the hair becomes brittle and lifeless, breaking off leaving a stump, or shed from the enlarged open follicles.

Diseases - Fungus Tinea Favosa (favus) - Dry, sulfur-yellow, cuplike crusts on the scalp which has a peculiar odor causing bald patches that may be pink or white and shiny.

Diseases - Parasites Parasites are living organisms that feed, grow and thrive on or in a host organism.

Diseases - Parasites The following parasites are contagious and can be easily transmitted from one person to another from contact with the infected hair and scalp by hats, combs, brushes and other personal articles. • Pediculosis Capitis (head lice) • Scabies (itch mite)

Diseases - Parasites Pediculosis Capitis- head lice which feed on the scalp causing itching and when scratched can cause infection. Scabies - itch mites which burrow under the skin causing inflammation, blisters and pustules and when scratched can cause infection.

Diseases - Pathogenic Bacteria Pathogenic bacteria is a one-celled organism that causes disease and infection when entering the body.

Diseases - Pathogenic Bacteria Straphylococci is a contagious pathogenic bacteria that infects the hair follicle and can be transmitted by skin-to-skin contact and unsterilized tools and implements. The two most common types of straphylococci are: • Furuncle • Carbuncle

Diseases - Pathogenic Bacteria Furuncle - a pimple or boil perforated by a hair that produces constant pain. Carbuncle - inflammation of the subcutaneous tissue similar to a furuncle but larger.

Disorders - Dermatitis There are two scalp disorders that manifest similar inflammatory and topical conditions. • Seborrheic dermatitis • Psoriasis dermatitis

Disorders - Dermatitis Seborrheic Dermatitis - a skin disorder or form of eczema caused by an inflammation of the sebaceous glands or an inflammatory reaction to some commonly used hair products. The scalp is red, inflamed and itchy with white, creamy, yeast-like film or patches that coat the scalp causing light flaking of dead skin cells resembling wet dandruff.

Disorders - Dermatitis Psoriasis Dermatitis - an inflammatory condition that results from an autoimmune disease of the skin. The scalp is red and irritated and covered with patches of silver white scales.

Disorders- Pityriasis Pityriasis, also known as dandruff, is a microscopic fungus that feeds on the scalp’s natural oils and creates byproducts that cause irritation on the scalp. There are two types of Pityriasis: • Pityriasis Capitis Simplex • Pityriasis Steroids

Disorders - Pityriasis Pityriasis Capitis Simplex - classic dandruff The scalp is itchy, dry and flaky resulting in scattered skin cells which are visible flakes on the hair and shoulders.

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