Around the World in 106 Days with Ray & Claire!! Part 30 – Marquesas Islands

1. Around the World in 106 Days with Ray & Claire!! Part 30 – Marquesas Islands

2. Located about 700 miles northeast of Tahiti, the Marquesas are made up of 15 islands out of which only 6 are inhabited. Stretching over 350km, they are divided up in to north and south. NukuHiva (which we visited) is a volcanic island to the North West and is the Marquesas principal island. It has a population of around 2600, which is primarily Polynesian, with a small proportion of Europeans - mostly from Metropolitan France

3. The Marquesas were first discovered and colonized about 2,000 years ago, by Polynesian voyagers. They named the Island group “Hen-ua En-na” or “Ground of the Men” Although they had no written language the Polynesians developed a culture rich in oral traditions, folk law and decorative arts. A warrior of NukuHiva with a spear and a hand fan by Wilhelm Gottlieb Tilesius von Tilenau, 1813.

4. Human bones have been found indicating that the natives (similar to other Polynesian Islands) had turned to cannibalism by the 1400’s Women and children seem to have been cannibalized just for food, whereas warriors killed in battle were offerings to the gods and were eaten by their conquerors to absorb their power; their skulls were kept by their slayers for the same reason, and hung from their loincloths. The sculls had a hook arrangement to enable them to be hung on the warriors belt • It is still debated why they practiced cannibalism and whilst it is thought that it was more for food than a ritual – rituals, nevertheless played a big part. The remnants of a “cooking pot” used for sacrifices

5. After 1400, certain religious and ceremonial structures (some of monumental size) were built, including the To-hua and the Tiki, which are characteristic of this classical period • The To-huawas a plaza that could accommodate special village activities. Similar to the Maori Marae, it had an open area in the middle, probably built to commemorate the birth of a first son, or the death of a chief or a priest. Scribe’s Note See later about the renovation of the site of Temehea and existing Tikis on that site

6. The To-huabecame the chief's hereditary property and part of his family's residential complex; so, in a sense, the To-huawas the chief's compound to which he would invite guests, visitors, and sometimes the entire village for special events, dancing and feasting.

11. Marquesan Chieftess

12. Tiki refers to large wood or stone carvings of humanoid forms in Central Eastern Polynesian cultures. The term is also used in Maori mythology where Tiki is the first man, created by either Tumata-uenga or Tane who found the first woman, Mari-kori-ko, in a pond. She seduced him and he became the father of Hine-kau-ataata. The Tiki on NukuHiva which still stand on this site are only remnants of the vast array of monumental statues Many have since disappeared, either into museums or private collections, or have simply been weather damaged – especially in the case of the wooden figures

13. The Marquesans lived happily - if not peacefully - until the Spanish explorer Alvaro de Mandana blundered across the islands during his search for the legendary land of Ophir. • Mendana believed that in Ophir he would find King Solomon’s mines - the source of gold for King Solomon’s Temple in Jerusalem.

14. Although he didn’t find gold on the Marquesas - he did come across a great number of longhaired, ornately tattooed savages and inevitably found conflict. The Marquesians or Hivans were a savage warlike people, not to mention their penchant for eating people. By the end of his visit though, Mendana and his crew had killed over 200 Marquesans, including many women and children.

15. Nearly two centuries were to pass before the next white visitorCaptain James Cook, arrived in 1774. Although this visit was less traumatic, blood was still spilt. Perhaps with more disastrous consequences, Cook's expedition had was the effect of opening the Marquesas to the outside world. Catholic missionaries reached the island in 1839 and the religion took hold when the archipelago was seized by the French in 1842 .

16. With little respect or comprehension for the people upon whom they had intruded, the early European visitors had a dramatic and destructive effect on the Marquesans and their culture, with the banning of tattooing, singing, dancing, artwork and any activities related to the old religion Marquesans performing a dance

17. The introduction of firearms, alcohol and a multitude of diseases decimated the local population and contributed to an element of self-destructive anarchy. In the brief period of only 60 years, their two thousand year old culture had disintegrated, one of the reasons being due to smallpox disease, introduced by the uninvited visitors. Nowadays, there are fewer than 10,000 inhabitants on the Marquesas and apparently none of them are pure blood. Despite this, they are still very proud of their rich culture and heritage.

18. Today, however NukuHiva is known for its towering spire like peaks, secluded lush valleys, ancient religious sites, fjord like bays and waterfalls so high that most of the descending water evaporates on the way down There are no villages on the western side and the coastline on the eastern part of the island has few places to land by sea and takes the brunt of the ocean swells.

19. Once more we had to anchor offshore and had to be brought in by the Ship’s Tenders’...

20. ....and we were greeted in true Polynesian style

21. ...and Claire discussed shopping opportunities with Dawn and Linda ..even the children seemed pleased to see us

22. Anyone want to buy a Ship? The ship dropped anchor here The town of Taio-hae was easy to explore on foot as its main street follows the curving shoreline of the Bay for about 2 miles ....in any case, there were no taxis, so we decided to walk.

23. I cannot understand what she is talking about – I think she must be English

24. Taio-haeis a pretty little village next to the sea

27. Walking round, heading west, we came across the Town Hall. This (along with the Post Office, Wharf and Tourist Information Centre) is located in the area of the original French settlement, which is behind Taio-haeand where U.S. Navy Commodore David Porter built a temporary base from which he raided British shipping in the Pacific during the War of 1812.

29. A little further on, we reached the Roman Catholic Cathedral of Notre Dame.

30. The gate to the compound was part of a wall from the original 19th-century church, but this modern version was built around 1977.

31. Inside the cathedral there were some marvelous stone and woodcarvings that each island had donated

32. The pulpit and Stations of the Cross are elaborately carved from single trunks of Tamanooo, which is ironwood or Australian Pine.

33. Outside St. Paul holds a spear instead of his Sword of Damocles. • St Peter holds breadfruit which substitutes as the olive tree and the Hinanobeer is depicted as one of the seven deadly sins!

34. As you will remember from previous presentations, the Breadfruit plant was an important part of the Polynesian diet Families still use it today and when it is cooked on the embers of an open fire, peeled and then cut, it tastes something between a slice of bread and a cake

35. Outside there are a couple of stone sculptures, one of the Pope & the other of the Madonna & Child (which the cameraman forgot to take a picture of!)……

36. ....and a cheery farewell wave from Raymond

37. Heading back to the coastal road we came across a monument to Herman Melville

38. Although this American Novelist is probably best known for writing “Moby Dick”, he also wrote a book called “Typee” based on his experiences in the Taipivai valley

39. Mah-noi – used as a skin and hair softener (see later)

40. A French 1880 War Memorial Another ancient monument

41. At the far end of the Bay we came across a black sand beach which (apparently) is very popular with visitors and from which locals launch their racing canoes

42. ..and overlooking the sand are these lodges which belong to the only Hotel on the Island – and which cost about $US 2000 per night to rent

43. ..and nearby was a museum with a little shop ...and yes, just to prove a point, Raymond had to purchase something from Ruth (the owner)!

44. Time to get back round to our Ship a we only have a short stop over here

45. But on our way back, we came across this old building. At first we thought that it was an old farmhouse or hall or something but then discovered that it is in fact the local jail! This is the only one, perhaps not surprisingly, on the island and is generally used for “short stay” internments

46. The Island is literally full of colour

48. Near the Pier was some stalls selling handicrafts such as wood carvings, seeds, shell necklaces, bone carving and par-eos – which is the Tahitian word for a wrap around skirt - and Monoioil.

49. Monoi oil is infused oil made from soaking the petals of Tahitian gardenias in semi-wax coconut oil. Monoi oil (an ancient Tahitian word meaning "scented oil”) is widely used among French Polynesians as a skin and hair softener, it is also popular in Europe and gaining ground in the United States

50. Using one of the Ship’s Tender to get back on board and were chased by one of the local Racing Canoes The two canoeist in the background gave up, but this one chased us all the way to the Ship