Section II: Wine Regions of Europe

Section II: Wine Regions of Europe Chapter 6: France

French Wine—Historical Perspective • The history of wine production in France is inextricably intertwined with the politics and sociological development of the country. • Grapes were established in the southern part of Gaul (now called France) by Greeks as early as 600 BC. • As the Romans colonized the country, the planting of grapes and the production of wine spread north. • Barbarians invaded Gaul and caused the collapse of the Roman Empire by AD 400. • During this time, it was the Christian monasteries that kept winemaking alive.

French Wine—Historical Perspective (cont.) • Charlemagne brought stability to Gaul during his reign which began in AD 768. • He introduced the first laws on wine production. • In 1152 Eleanor of Aquitaine married Henri of Anjou. An important trade alliance was established when Henri ascended the English throne as King Henry II. • English entrepreneurs came to France, especially to Bordeaux, and played a crucial role in the building of the wine trade.

French Wine—Historical Perspective (cont.) • After the French Revolution (1789–1791) and the rise of Napoleon, the church and the aristocracy lost a great deal of their power. • Land was taken by the government and given to the farmers. • The production and exporting of French wines, especially Bordeaux, continued to increase until the root louse phylloxera invaded French vineyards in the late 1880s.

Appellation Contrôlée Laws • As French wine production recovered after the setback of phylloxera, a new, man-made problem arose: fraud. • As certain regions became popular, their wines became more valuable. • Once a price for a certain wine rose, some wine merchants could not resist the temptation to increase the supply through fraud. • Unscrupulous producers would simply attach a region’s name in order to get a higher price. • Or producers within a famous region expanded production by buying grapes grown elsewhere.

Appellation Contrôlée Laws (cont.) • The need for government intervention to protect the authenticity of geographic names of origin became evident as early as the late 1890s. • Fraud proceeded to become so widespread in France that some place names on bottles became essentially meaningless. • The problem was particularly evident in the Champagne region. It has been estimated that by 1911, the Champagne houses were selling at least 11,000,000 more bottles of wine than their region produced.

Appellation Contrôlée Laws (cont.) • The grape growers rioted to protest the practice of the large Champagne producers buying grapes outside the region to expand production. • The government immediately passed legislation defining the boundaries of the Champagne region and decreed that the valuable name “Champagne” on a label could be used only if all grapes used in the production were grown inside those boundaries. • This was the first step towards a system that guarantees the authenticity of specific geographic locations.

Appellation Contrôlée Laws (cont.) • In the early 1900s there were similar protests by growers in Burgundy and the Rhône Valley • Finally, in 1935, the French government passed legislation creating the Institut National des Appellations d’Origine des Vins et des Eaux-de-Vie (INAO). • The INAO, working with local growers, established appellation boundaries and codification of grape-growing and winemaking practices appropriate to each area. • The system has continued to evolve and is continually under review. It is not static.

Appellation Contrôlée Laws (cont.) • All wine regions of France are classified into one of four levels of quality. • In ascending order of quality, the four levels are: • vin de table(table wine) • vin de pays(country wine) • vin delimité de qualité supérieure or VDQS (quality wines from a limited area) • appellation d’origine contrôléeor AOC (higher-quality wines from one of the better limited areas of production)

Appellation d’OrigineContrôlée (AOC) The wine must be made 100 percent from grapes approved for that appellation. The grapes must have all been grown within a limited zone or area of production. The grapes must have been picked at the minimal level of sugar, and reach the minimal alcohol level, specified for that appellation. The amount of grapes harvested must not exceed a certain amount per hectare. The methods used in the vineyard and in the winery must conform to the regulations of the region. The wine must be bottled in the same region as the appellation. The wine must pass a tasting test by the local branch of the INAO.

Vins de Pays • Higher yields and a higher percentage of nonindigenous grapes are allowed at this level. • Since 1979, wines at this level have been permitted to be labeled by varietal. • Today approximately 25 percent of French wine is designated as vin de pays.

Vins de Pays • Vin de pays regions can fall within three different types: 1. Regional: These are three very large areas. 2. Departmental: This covers an entiredépartment, the French equivalent of an American state. 3. Zonal: This is the smallest, often just one district or even one town. There are over 100 zonal vin de pays regions.

Vin de Table or Vin Ordinaire The European Commission is putting pressure on France to decrease the amount of acreage dedicated to this level of wine, as the glut of bulk wine and wine grapes causes prices to fall.

Weaknesses of the System The system of laws protects the grower and producer more than it does the consumer. Changes advocated by experts include adding consumer representation to the local INAO commissions. The tasting and analysis of AOC and VDQS wines should be done for quality, not just for typicality. Labeling laws could also be improved.

Wine Regions of France Bordeaux Burgundy Côtes du Rhône The Loire Valley Champagne Alsace

Bordeaux • Bordeaux is one of the world’s largest and most diverse wine-producing regions. • There are almost 304,000 acres under vine, and annual production is over 660 million bottles of wine. • Fully 22 percent of France’s total AOC production is from Bordeaux. • Bordeaux is a city and a wine region. • The city of Bordeaux, eighth largest in France, is the capital of the département of Gironde, the largest of France’s 95 départements.

Bordeaux • The region has large, self-sufficient estates in which the vineyards, the winemaking facilities, and often the owner’s house are all located together in close proximity. • The late seventeenth and early eighteenth centuries were the period in which many of the great estates developed as exports in wine increased. • Production of wine in Bordeaux was set way back by the infestation of phylloxera as well as downy mildew in the late nineteenth century.

Bordeaux The first half of the twentieth century saw an unprecedented string of man-made disasters: The First World War, the Great Depression, Prohibition in the United States, and, of course, the Second World War. In the second half of the twentieth century, the Bordeaux wine trade grew and strengthened. A rising standard of living throughout the Western world and an increasing appreciation for wine in the United States has widened the consumer base for Bordeaux’s wines.

Soil and Climate—the Terroir of Bordeaux The département of Gironde is located on the west coast of France, on the Atlantic Ocean. Exactly halfway between the North Pole and the Equator, extending about 65 miles from north to south and 80 miles from east to west, the Gironde is spared any temperature extremes.

Soil and Climate—the Terroir of Bordeaux • In Bordeaux, the grape varietals allowed by AOC laws are as follows: • Red: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Malbec, Petit Verdot, and Carmenère • White: Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon, and Muscadelle • For regional white wines, up to 30 percent of lesser grapes such as Colombard, Merlot Blanc, and Ugni Blanc is allowed.

The Classifications of Bordeaux Estates • The most famous rating was The Classification of 1855 for the wine-producing estates of the Haut-Médoc. • The market reflected the comparative worth of different estates’ wines by the price consumers were willing to pay. • The merchants (also called brokers or négoçiants) formalized the ranking that they had been using. • The brokers were able to divide the top Médoc estates into five tiers of quality. • It remains the official ranking to this day, with only one change.

The Classifications of Bordeaux Estates (cont.) • In 1973, Château Mouton-Rothschild was elevated from second growth to first growth. • In 1855, brokers also classified the estates of Bordeaux that produced the sweet white wines. • They ranked these estates into two classes, based on market demand, price, and quality. • The wine-producing estates of the Graves region were not officially classified until 1953 for the red wines and 1959 for the white wines. • The estates of St. Émilion were first classified officially in 1955. • The estates of Pomerol have never been officially classified. However, the best wines from this region rank among the world’s best red wines.

The Wine Regions of Bordeaux Haut-Médoc Graves Sauternes/Barsac St. Émilion Pomerol

The Haut-Médoc • Most of the best of Bordeaux’s wines come from famous estates in the Haut-Médoc. • The greatest estates have been classified superior. • The wines of Margaux are raspberry scented, smooth and medium-bodied on the palate with rich, ripe berry flavors. • The wines of St. Julien have more tannic backbone and are fuller-bodied. • Paudillac is the most famous of the commune in the Haut-Médoc. • The style of St. Estèphe wines is more tannic and backward than that of other communes.

The Médoc Much of the land is dedicated to pasture rather than grapes. There are 14 wine-producing communes within the Bas-Médoc. Some very decent and affordable red wines are made in the Médoc.

Graves The appellation Graves applies to both reds and whites. The dry whites of Graves can be among the most elegant, complex, and food-friendly wines based on the Sauvignon Blanc grape. The wines are fragrant with appealing citrus, gooseberry, and fresh grassy aromas. The best red wines of the Graves region are velvety smooth, full of ripe berry flavors.

Sauternes Encompasses five villages—Sauternes, Bommes, Fargues, Preignac, and Barsac The appellation of Sauternes is restricted to sweet white wines. Regarded as the most luscious, rich dessert wines in the world The most famous of the estates in the Sauternes appellation is the legendary Château d’Yquem.

The Libournais Often referred to as the “Right Bank,” a very old wine-producing area, steeped in tradition and history Merlot does very well and is the predominate grape. Small properties and unpretentious houses and chais, once owned by peasants and bourgeois families

Lesser Appellations Entre-Deux-Mers Premières Côtes de Bordeaux Lalande de Pomerol Lalande de Pomerol Bordeaux Supérieur

Burgundy • Burgundy is much smaller than Bordeaux, producing only half as much wine. • In Bordeaux, the wine-producing estates grow their own grapes, have the winemaking facility and aging caves on the property, and market the wines under their own name. • In Burgundy, each village will have its own appellation, and the vineyards within that village may each have their own individual appellations. Those vineyards, although very small, may also have several owners.

Burgundy (cont.) • In Burgundy, winemaking facilities are located in the towns, away from the vineyards. • The name under which a wine is marketed may be that of a merchant or négoçiant, who is not connected to the vineyards. • The plethora of appellations and maze of ownership along with négoçiant labels do indeed make Burgundy difficult to comprehend. • In the past few decades, moderately priced wines of good quality are being produced in Burgundy.

Burgundy (cont.) • The history of wine production in Burgundy precedes the Roman Empire. • There is clear evidence that viticulture was well established here by the second century AD. • Over the next thousand years, Burgundy evolved first into an independent kingdom that lasted until the early eighth century. • The most important factor in the development of the winemaking of the region was the Catholic Church.

Burgundy (cont.) • During the Middle Ages, as its landholdings increased, the Church played a crucial role in perfecting techniques of viticulture and wine making. • The Cistercian order, in the northern part of Burgundy, did extensive systematic research into the relationship among grape varietal, soil and climate conditions, and the wine that resulted. • These monks were among the very first to investigate and define the concept of terroir. From their meticulous work evolved the idea of crus.

Burgundy (cont.) • After the Napoleonic Wars came to an end in 1815, economic and political conditions stabilized and wine production in Burgundy expanded. • With the rise of the bourgeoisie, France’s middle class, a new market for Burgundy’s wines opened up. • Attention to quality and authenticity was not always maintained. • Vintners and négoçiants could expand production by blending in juice from grapes grown in inferior vineyards outside of Burgundy.

Burgundy (cont.) The passage in 1935 of the Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée laws eliminated the worst of the fraud and gave protection to the place names within Burgundy. The AOC laws also established standards of viticulture and winemaking, thus increasing the overall quality. Since the 1980s, there has been a trend away from the pattern of small growers selling their grapes to négoçiants, and instead the number of proprietaire labels has increased.

The Classification System of Burgundy The analogy of concentric circles illustrates how French appellations fit one inside the other as the geographic designation gets smaller. Generally, the smaller the appellation, the better and more distinctive the wine. The next circle in the hypothetical “target,” the regional appellation. The next smaller circle is the commune appellation. The next two levels are for specific single vineyards. The final level of quality for Burgundy, the “bull’s eye” is the grand cru appellation.

The Wine Regions of Burgundy Chablis The Côte d’Or (Côte de Nuits and Côte de Beaune) The Côte Chalonnaise The Mâconnais The Beaujolais

Chablis Chablis is an appellation restricted to dry white wine. These are among the driest and most elegant wines made from the Chardonnay grape. The climate here is cool enough that the grapes maintain an excellent crisp acidity. The flavors fully evolve because the grapes enjoy a lengthy ripening period hanging on the vines into fall. The vintners must be alert to the danger of frost.

The Côte d’Or • Burgundy’s Côte d’Or, or Golden Slope, is one of the world’s best areas for growing cool-climate grapes. • The Cote d’Or is divided into two subregions: • The northern portion is the Côte de Nuits (reds). • The southern portion is the Côte de Beaune (whites).

The Côte Chalonnaise In the Côte Chalonnaise, there are four commune appellations of particular importance. Moving from north to south these villages are: Rully, Mercurey, Givry, and Montagny. The wines of the Chalonnaise lack the elegance, depth, and longevity of those from the Côte d’Or. But they can be charming, balanced, and appealing. These wines are also excellent values.

The Mâconnais Marks the transition, climatically and geologically, from northern to southern France The majority of Mâconnais wines are white. They are primarily Chardonnay, but another grape, Aligoté, is also allowed.

The Beaujolais Beaujolais is one of the most popular red wines in many countries around the world. Since the wine is only a few weeks old at the time of release, it is termed nouveau, or new. The portion of any vintage year’s wine that is not sold as nouveau is released starting the next spring.

Côtes du Rhône The region along the Rhône River in southern France is an ancient wine-producing area. For much of the length of the river the valley is bursting with commercial activity. The lowlands near the river are not promising for growing quality grapes. However, if one climbs up the slopes (the côtes) on either side of the river, the topography changes drastically and is better suited to growing grapes, especially along the southern section.

The History of the Rhône Valley • Although introduced by the Greeks, viticulture did not take hold in the Rhône until the early Christian period. • After the decline of the Roman Empire, winemaking essentially disappeared, until 1309, when Bertrand the Goth was elected Pope Clement V. • The new Pope established his papacy in Avignon and planted grape vines. His successor, Pope John XXII, continued to hold court in Avignon. • Pope John’s large and beautiful new castle, that is, le Chateauneuf-du-Pape, lent its name to the surrounding vineyards and is one of the premier wine regions of the Rhône.

The Terroir of the Côtes du Rhône • The Rhône is separated into two regions, the Northern Rhône and the Southern Rhône. • The entire region is warm and dry. But the North is definitely cooler, and the vineyards here cling to the stony soil of steep hillsides. • The narrow northern section extends from Lyon to the village of Valence, a distance of about 45 miles. • The southern section begins south of the town of Montélimar and continues on south of Avignon. • Here the climate is definitely Mediterranean, very warm and sunny and dry.

The Terroir of the Côtes du Rhône (cont.) • The principal grape varietals of the Northern Rhône is Syrah for reds and Viognier for whites. The Syrah grape produces full-bodied wines with fruity aromas. • Tight and austere when young, Syrah-based reds will open up to show accessible flavors when mature. • Viognier grapes have a deep yellow color and possess an intriguing floral/fruity aroma.

The Terroir of the Côtes du Rhône (cont.) The vineyards of the southern Rhône support a much more complex array of grape varietals. Whereas the wines of the Northern Rhône, both reds and whites, are mostly single-varietal, those of the Southern Rhône are blends of several varietals. The principal red grape of the southern appellations is the Grenache, a noble varietal that thrives in warm, sunny climates. Other varietals used for blending include Mourvèdre, Syrah, and Cinsaut, for reds, and Marsanne and Rousanne for whites.

The Terroir of the Côtes du Rhône (cont.) • The southern section of the Rhône Valley is much larger than the northern one. • The total acreage for the entire appellation is almost 150,000 acres. • Of that, only 5,900 acres are in the nine communes and crus of the Northern Rhône. • The rest is in that very large, highly varied region of the Southern Rhône.

The Appellations of the Côtes du Rhône Côtes du Rhône: Almost 98,000 acres, with 7,000,000 cases, mostly red, produced annually; quality can vary widely. Côtes du Rhône-Villages: The standards are higher; the vineyard yield per acre must be lower, and the minimum alcohol content is higher. Commune: The best wines carry the name of the commune or village where the vineyards are located.

The Northern Rhône • Moving from north to south, the important communes of the Northern Rhône are: • Côte Rôtie • Condrieu • Chateau-Grillet, St. Joseph • Crozes-Hermitage • Hermitage • Cornas • St. Peray

Section II: Wine Regions of Europe