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Peru 2006 Expedition in celebration of our 30 th birthdays. Brian Hynek. Jared Workman. it’s just a little swollen, black, and crooked…. Some high altitude physical therapy is in order!. Time to take off the cast and see if those 3 fractures from 6 weeks ago are healed.
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Peru 2006 Expedition in celebration of our 30th birthdays Brian Hynek Jared Workman
it’s just a little swollen, black, and crooked… Some high altitude physical therapy is in order! Time to take off the cast and see if those 3 fractures from 6 weeks ago are healed.
After 21 hours of travel we see the mountains from the bus. They look big and menacing.
assessing road damage The most terrifying part of the trip for Jared – riding in the cab with a “lazy-eyed psycho” for a driver. ramming sheep Okay, well he did have a psychotic look in his eyes, and he ran a crippled old man off the road, hit a number of sheep, goats and dogs, typically drove 3X the posted speed limit, and he came inches from decapitating Jared and the front ½ of his car…but he always got us there on time!
First stop – Vallunaraju (18,700’) We backpacked up to the glacier at 16,500’ for some acclimatizing and refreshing of our glacier travel and crevasse rescue techniques
We explore a sweet ice cave under the glacier. They must have filmed parts of Superman here!
Dropping into a crevasse Are you sure this snow anchor will hold me?? Trust me!
“Climbing out of this thing with a big pack on and at 17,100’ is tough work!”
This climbing really hurts my foot. Fortunately there is no shortage of ice water on the edge of the glacier.
After Vallunaraju, we head back to Hauraz for a day of rest, shopping, and getting provisions for a week in the mountains. Mmm, ceviche. Tasty raw tentacles, crab, shrimp and fish soaked in lime juice.
We buy 60 lbs of dry goods for our expedition. How are we supposed to get the 170 lbs of food, climbing gear, winter clothes, and camping gear up the mountain???
Los Burros! That’s how! $5 a day and they’ll each carry 100 lbs of gear to base camp? Sign us up!!
Now if we could only strap crampons on these things the mountains would be easy.
Summit Pisco Base Camp X taxi drop-off First Destination: Pisco (18,900’) 6,100’ total vertical gain (map stolen from “Classic Climbs of the Cordillera Blanca” by Brad Johnson)
The land of turquoise lakes and many mountains rising 10,000’ above the alpine valleys.
Pisco Base Camp (15,300’) “The Valley of Giants”
After a day of rest at Base Camp, we head for Pisco’s summit. We are climbing by 1:30 a.m. and Jared is quite sick with flu symptoms. It is an arduous climb by the light of the moon for 5 hours. We are occasionally ensconced in clouds and snow flurries.
What views! The route up Pisco
We only encounter one technical stretch…a short pitch of near-vertical snow/ice climbing.
Summit Shots!! Do we have to move?
“What do you say we head down to where there’s more oxygen??”
We were just on that 18,900’ summit behind us! Let’s celebrate!
30 seconds later… Apparently climbing high mountains isn’t good on a bad case of the flu. On the bright side, Jared hasn’t coughed up blood in hours.
After a couple 4:30 a.m. beers, I’m feeling loads better. Don’t I look ready for another peak?
Back to Donkey Camp and time to head for the next mountain – Yanapaccha (17,900’)
Summit Base Camp X Donkey Camp Yanapaccha 5,100’ total vertical gain crevasse navigation up steep snow and ice on the west face (map stolen from “Classic Climbs of the Cordillera Blanca” by Brad Johnson)
Yanapaccha’s West Face The route weaves through the crevasses up the middle of the face to the summit. base camp is well behind this ridge somewhere
Another early start by moonlight. 3 hours of steep loose scrambling to the glacier’s edge. Unfortunately, Jared severely injures his ribs at the glacier. I continue up with our guide and he heads back to base camp.
Heading toward the summit on 65 degree snow and ice. Looking across the steep snow climb toward Huascaran. Better not fall - it’s a long way down.
Off to the most expensive hotel in Huaraz to spoil ourselves on a (kind-of) hot bath and relaxing in the quiet gardens. $57, inc. full breakfast