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Chapter 12 texture

Chapter 12 texture. 12.1 12.2. Perming theory Relaxing theory. Explain the theory, techniques and procedures for perming Explain the theory, techniques and procedures for relaxing. 12.1. Perming theory. History of Perming Physical Phase of Perming Chemical Phase of Perming

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Chapter 12 texture

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  1. Chapter 12 texture 12.1 12.2 Perming theory Relaxing theory Chapter 12 TEXTURE | advance organizer

  2. Explain the theory, techniques and procedures for perming • Explain the theory, techniques and procedures for relaxing Chapter 12 TEXTURE | advance organizer

  3. 12.1 Perming theory History of Perming Physical Phase of Perming Chemical Phase of Perming Perm Essentials Infection Control and Safety Perm Service Essentials Perm Procedure Overview Perm Problems and Solutions Chapter 12 texture | perming theory | advance organizer

  4. Is a highly valued service and significant revenue generator • Adds volume, texture and movement to hair • perming Chapter 12 texture | perming theory

  5. Invented by Charles Nesslerin 1905 • Involved the spiral method of wrapping hair from scalp to ends around heated rollers • Solution was heated with the aid of electrical heaters • Heat Permanent Waving Machine Chapter 12 texture | perming theory | History of perming

  6. Wrapped hair from ends to the scalp • Led the way to the use of clamps preheated on a separate electric unit and placed over hair • Croquignole Method Chapter 12 texture | perming theory | History of perming

  7. Introduced byRalph I. Evans and Everett G. McDonoughin 1931 at the Midwest Beauty Show in Chicago Used bi-sulphides rather than heat • Heatless Technique (“Overnight Wave”) Chapter 12 texture | perming theory | History of perming

  8. Invented by Arnold F. Willatt in 1938 • No machines or heat were used • Hair was wrapped on perm tools while a waving lotion processed the hair without heat • Cold Waves: Thioglycolic Acid and Alkaline pH 8.0 - 9.5 Chapter 12 texture | perming theory | History of perming

  9. Acid: Appeared in the early 1970s; called “buffered waves” because they were gentler Endothermic: Heat added to speed up processing time by placing a plastic cap on client’s head and placing under a preheated dryer Exothermic: Generate their own heat without an external heat source • Heat Waves: Acid/Endothermic and Exothermic pH 6.9 - 7.2 Chapter 12 texture | perming theory | History of perming

  10. Today’s perms involve two major phases: Physical PhaseWrapping of the hair aroundselected perm tools in particular patterns and directions CHEMICAL PHASEApplying perm solution, rinsing, applying neutralizer and rinsing New technology Chapter 12 texture | perming theory | History of perming

  11. Physical phase of perming • The desired size and shape of the new wave or curl pattern are achieved by wrapping the hair around perm tools which become the mold for the new texture • Wrap hair smoothly and evenly around tool, using appropriate tension without stretching it Chapter 12 texture | perming theory | Physical phase of perming

  12. To perform the physical phase of a perm service, you will need to become familiar with: • Physical phase of perming • Distribute and Section • Wrap • Perm Tools (Rods) • End Paper Techniques • Base Control • Perm Patterns Chapter 12 texture | perming theory | Physical phase of perming

  13. Distribute hair in direction desired: • Away from the face • Toward the face • Downward from a side part • Alternating clockwise and counterclockwise directions • Distribute and section Section the hair accordingto the length of the perm tool and the wrapping pattern you've chosen Chapter 12 texture | perming theory | Physical phase of perming | Distribute and section

  14. OVERLAP (CROQUIGNOLE) • Rotates or revolves hair around a tool from ends up to base (rotate at least 2 ½ times around the tool) • Produces curls and undulating waves • Achieves base lift, strong end curl • Best suited for short-to-medium length hair • wrap Chapter 12 texture | perming theory | Physical phase of perming | wrap

  15. wrap SPIRAL • Positions revolutions next to one another to create an elongated texture pattern • Is used on medium-to-longer lengths Ends-to-Base Method: begin at ends and rotate under twice; position tool vertically and wrap hair in corkscrew fashion up to base Base-to-Ends Method: begin at base, wrap hair around tool held vertically until you reach the end of the hair strand Chapter 12 texture | perming theory | Physical phase of perming | wrap

  16. Come in various lengths, diameters and shapes • Color-coded for easier selection of correct diameter • Perm Tools Chapter 12 texture | perming theory | Physical phase of perming | perm tools

  17. STRAIGHT PERM RODS • Most common rod is cylindrical and generally concave or straight • Produce curls or waves that are uniform throughout the hair strand • Hair on ends travels the same distance as hair in the center • Perm Tools Chapter 12 texture | perming theory | Physical phase of perming | perm tools

  18. CONCAVE PERM RODS • Narrower in diameter in center and wider at ends • Hair on ends travels farther than in center • Produces smaller, tighter curl in center and wider more spiraling pattern at ends • Perm Tools Chapter 12 texture | perming theory | Physical phase of perming | perm tools

  19. SOFT RODS Flexible tubes that allow hair strands to be wrapped around the length of the tool to produce a natural-looking curl • Perm Tools Chapter 12 texture | perming theory | Physical phase of perming | perm tools

  20. Different diameter perm tools produce different degrees of curl activation: LargeDiameter ToolsProduce large curls, waves or body waves MediumDiameter ToolsProduce texture with a faster rate or speed of activation SmallDiameter ToolsProduce small, firm curls Perm Tools Chapter 12 texture | perming theory | Physical phase of perming | perm tools

  21. LENGTH REDUCTION • Using smaller tools causes the hanging hair length to become progressively shorter • Analyzing the relationshipbetween hair length and tool diameter helps to anticipate length reduction • Perm Tools Chapter 12 texture | perming theory | Physical phase of perming | perm tools

  22. Control hair ends • Keep hair smoothly wrapped around tool to ensure a smooth, uniform curl formation • Cover ends of hair to control uneven lengths, minimize breakage and eliminate crimps or “fishhooks” • End Paper Techniques Chapter 12 texture | perming theory | Physical phase of perming | perm tools

  23. Bookend • Uses one end paper folded in half horizontally • Controls sections of hair whena shorter tool length is selected or to wrap sections of very short hair • End paper techniques Chapter 12 texture | perming theory | Physical phase of perming | perm tools

  24. Double-Paper • Incorporates two end papers, one on top and one on bottom • Allows maximum control of tapered ends and avoids bunching the ends making it the most common end-paper technique • Also called double-flat technique • End paper techniques Chapter 12 texture | perming theory | Physical phase of perming | perm tools

  25. Single Paper • Represents a more advanced version of double-paper technique • Used with healthy competent hair • End paper techniques Chapter 12 texture | perming theory | Physical phase of perming | perm tools

  26. Cushion • Incorporates several end papers • Begins with a double-flat technique, then additional end papers are positioned on top of the strand as perm tool is wrapped • Provides cushioning and support to fragile hair • Controls shorter lengths within the hair section • Recommended for chemically treated or highly porous hair • End paper techniques Chapter 12 texture | perming theory | Physical phase of perming | perm tools

  27. End paper techniques ALERT When using multiple end papers, it is important to rinse and blot the hair thoroughly since the extra papers hold more moisture than a single end paper Chapter 12 texture | perming theory | Physical phase of perming | perm tools

  28. Designed to maintain the position of perm tools • Positioned under the bands of perm tools • Generally placed in the same direction as the wrapping direction • Stabilizers (Picks) Chapter 12 texture | perming theory | Physical phase of perming | perm tools

  29. Base Control Combination of two related aspects of perming: • Size of the base in relation to the diameter of the tool • Position of the tool in relation to the base Base: area between two partings for an individual perm tool Chapter 12 texture | perming theory | Physical phase of perming | perm tools

  30. Bases can be rectangular, triangular or rhomboidal and positioned vertically, horizontally or diagonally; length and shape change according to section being wrappedBASE SIZE • Defined by base’s length and width • Make base no longer than the length of the tool • Determine width of base by diameter of perm toolToo much hair on perm tool will prevent solutions from penetrating properly • Base Control Chapter 12 texture | perming theory | Physical phase of perming | perm tools

  31. Base Size 1x • One-diameter base • Equal to diameter of perm tool • Most frequently used • Base control Chapter 12 texture | perming theory | Physical phase of perming | perm tools

  32. Base Size 1 ½X • One full diameter plus one half • Base control Chapter 12 texture | perming theory | Physical phase of perming | perm tools

  33. Base Size 2x • Two full diameters of chosen tool • Base control Chapter 12 texture | perming theory | Physical phase of perming | perm tools

  34. TOOL POSITION • Refers to the placement of the wrapped perm tool in relation to its base • Determined by size of the base and the angle at which hair is projected while wrapping • Affects degree of lift from the base and the degree of blending between bases • Base control • The four basic tool positions are: • On Base • Half-off Base • Underdirected • Off Base Chapter 12 texture | perming theory | Physical phase of perming | perm tools

  35. On Base • Use a 1x base • Project hair at a 45° angle from center of base • Position tool between two base partings • Creates the most volume • Not recommended for alkaline perms • TOOL POSITION Chapter 12 texture | perming theory | Physical phase of perming | perm tools

  36. Half-Off Base • Use a 1x base size • Project hair at a 90° angle from center • Position tool half on its base and half off, directly on lower parting Provides medium base lift and maximum blending between bases • TOOL POSITION Chapter 12 texture | perming theory | Physical phase of perming | perm tools

  37. Underdirected • Use at least 1 1/2 x base size • Project hair at a 90° angle from center of base Used for moderate base lift and in perimeter areas where less volume is desired • TOOL POSITION Chapter 12 texture | perming theory | Physical phase of perming | perm tools

  38. Off-Base • Use any base size • Project hair 45° below the center of base while wrapping so tool is positioned completely off its base Used only for minimal degree of volume or base lift and a curl pattern concentrated on the midstrand and ends • TOOL POSITION Chapter 12 texture | perming theory | Physical phase of perming | perm tools

  39. Refers to the way perm tools are arranged around the client’s head while wrapping • Helps organize and control perm service • Affects the final look of the new curl pattern • Perm Patterns Chapter 12 texture | perming theory | Physical phase of perming | perm tools

  40. Rectangle (9-Block) • Consists of rectangular sections subdivided into rectangular bases • Basic direction is downward • Considered most basic pattern • May be performed on any sculpted form • Perm patterns Chapter 12 texture | perming theory | Physical phase of perming | perm tools

  41. Contour • Adapts to contours or curves of the head • Includes a central rectangle and slight diagonal and horizontal partings at the sides • Perm patterns Chapter 12 texture | perming theory | Physical phase of perming | perm tools

  42. One-Two Bricklay • Positions tools in a staggered configuration • Uses rectangle-shaped bases positioned in any direction and is wrapped with an overlap technique • Creates consistent curl • Helps avoid splits between bases • Perm patterns Chapter 12 texture | perming theory | Physical phase of perming | perm tools

  43. Spiral Bricklay • Features horizontal rows subdivided in a staggered bricklaypattern • Positions tools vertically within the rectangular bases • Achieves an elongated curl pattern on medium-to-longer lengths of hair when used in conjunction with the bricklay perm pattern • Perm patterns Chapter 12 texture | perming theory | Physical phase of perming | perm tools

  44. Alternating Oblong • Uses diagonal partings within oblongs • Positions alternating oblongs horizontally, vertically or diagonally within a design • Perm patterns Chapter 12 texture | perming theory | Physical phase of perming | perm tools

  45. Perm patterns ALERT Always read and follow manufacturer’s directions before you begin wrapping Chapter 12 texture | perming theory | Physical phase of perming | perm tools

  46. Techniques and patterns used to achieve a variety of customized texture results: • Advanced Perm Techniques and Patterns Strand variations allow texture to be placed on certain parts of the hair strand rather than along entire strand Base variations provide alternatives to the standard base control techniques Advanced perm patterns position new texture in specific areas or zones of the head Chapter 12 texture | perming theory | Physical phase of perming | perm tools

  47. STRAND VARIATIONS BASE PERMING • Refers to adding texture only at base of hair strand • Gives lift and support, but not end curl • Adds base support when used for“grown-out” perm • Advanced Perm Techniques and Patterns Chapter 12 texture | perming theory | Physical phase of perming | perm tools

  48. STRAND VARIATIONS Away From the Base Perming • Adds texture anywhere along the strand except at the base • Creates contrasting textures • Advanced Perm Techniques and Patterns Chapter 12 texture | perming theory | Physical phase of perming | perm tools

  49. STRAND VARIATIONS Piggyback • Refers to a combination of base perming and away from the base perming • Positions two or more perm tools along length of the strand • Creates a continued wave pattern; tools are wrapped in alternate directions • Advanced Perm Techniques and Patterns Chapter 12 texture | perming theory | Physical phase of perming | perm tools

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