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Artificial Reef Design for Surfing

Artificial Reef Design for Surfing. By: Spicer Bak, M.S. Stevens Institute of Technology This material is based upon work supported by the National Science Foundation under Grant No.. NSF DGE-0742462. Why do this? . Rising Sea Levels/Wave heights Growing Conflict with Surfer

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Artificial Reef Design for Surfing

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  1. Artificial Reef Design for Surfing By: Spicer Bak, M.S. Stevens Institute of Technology This material is based upon work supported by the National Science Foundation under Grant No.. NSF DGE-0742462

  2. Why do this? • Rising Sea Levels/Wave heights • Growing Conflict with Surfer Groups and local Government Long Branch, NJ - October 2006 ASBPA National Conference

  3. Beach Protection • Waves are a type of energy • Waves = energy • Energy moves sand • Beach gets narrower • 2 basic causes of erosion • Longshore Sediment transport • Cross-shore erosion • Current popular protection • Groynes - Long-shore • Breakwaters/seawalls • Cross-shore

  4. Groynes - Long-shore sediment transport protection • Advantage: • Keeps sand • Encourages sea life • Disadvantage • Eyesore - not pretty • Need a field to adequately protect

  5. http://changingcoastline.com/dunes-edge/beach-restoration/hard-engineered-solutions/http://changingcoastline.com/dunes-edge/beach-restoration/hard-engineered-solutions/

  6. Break waters & sea walls • Seawall • Wall at edge of water • Stops wave energy • Breakwater • Parallel to shore • Dissipates waves Galveston, Texas

  7. Science Of Surfing • Peel Angle • Velocity • Wave Classification • Vortex Ratio • Surf Similarity Parameter

  8. Peel Angle • Used to classify the wave • Surfer Velocity

  9. Peel Angle

  10. Hutt, Black and Mead (2001) Classification of Waves BEGINNER INTERMEDIATE ADVANCED/EXPERT

  11. Vortex Ratio Vortex ratio (Y) = Vortex length to width ratio Wave parameters used for curve fitting; vortex length (l), vortex width (w), angle (θ), and wave height (H), orthogonal seabed gradient (X’) Mead and Black (2001)

  12. Surf Similarity Parameter Surging/Collapsing Plunging Spilling

  13. Example Classifications Mead and Black (2001)

  14. Reefs • Advantages • Out of sight • Design to protect against long- shore/cross-shore • Provides: • Capability for design for surf • Adds marine life habitat • Sheltered swimming • Diving • Comparable Cost • Disadvantages • Construction difficult • Time consuming • Still an emerging technology • Mostly proprietary (as of right now)

  15. Refraction - Energy • Wave straightens out • Snell’s Law (q – measured w.r.t. shore normal) • E=1/8  * g * H2

  16. Unprotected

  17. Coastal protection

  18. Design • Giant Sand bags • Placed then filled • V - Shaped pattern

  19. Narrow Neck - Aus • Both Right and left • Beginners wave on inside

  20. ASR • design overview • india goes off

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