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1. YARNS AND SEWING THREADS
- Chapter 4 -
2. Tonight’s topics
Fibers spun into yarns
Wide variety of yarns
Yarn types affect fabric properties
Unique size systems exist for yarns
Different equipment is required to weave or knit with different yarns
Fabric finish choices affected by yarn type
Garment designs influenced by yarn types
Sewing threads similar to yarns
4. Spun Yarn Filament Yarn
5. SPUN YARNS Staple fibers twisted together
Twisting creates stronger yarns
Identify by untwisting yarn fibers; spun yarn pulls apart into individual short fibers
Swatches 1, 12, 20, 31, 48, 54, 72, 85Swatches 1, 12, 20, 31, 48, 54, 72, 85
6. FILAMENT YARNS Continuous filaments as they come from spinnerette/cocoon
Little or low twist
Smooth lustrous surface
Tightly twisted filament yarns
Crepe-filament yarns
Strength of yarn depends on individual fiber strength and number of filaments
Swatches 4, 8, 13, 39, 55, 69, 94, 96Swatches 4, 8, 13, 39, 55, 69, 94, 96
7. Monofilament Composed of one filament
Multifilament
Composed of many filaments
Most filament yarns are multifilament
More flexible than single filament yarns of same diameter
8. TAPE & NETWORK YARNS Tape Yarns
Inexpensive
Produced in sheet form; then slit into .1” strips
Common for olefins and metallics
Network Yarns
Air included in solution to make foam; air pockets pop when fiber is drawn, creating a network of interlocked fibers
Industrial uses where bulk and low density are more important than high strength
9. Carded And Combed Yarns(1 smoothing step) (2 or more smoothing steps) Fabrics of combed yarn look better, feel smoother, are stronger, and are more expensive than fabrics of carded yarn
Fabrics of combed yarn retain shape better and pill less
Fabrics of carded yarn are bulkier, softer, and fuzzier. Combed: swatch 20
Carded: swatch 11, 27, 33, 50, 76, 80
Combed: swatch 20
Carded: swatch 11, 27, 33, 50, 76, 80
10. Linen Yarns Tow = short fibers = coarse texture = rough finish; homespuns
Line = long fibers = smooth texture = fine finish; handkerchief linen
Tow - swatch 7
Tow - swatch 7
11. Wool Yarns Woolen
Made of carded yarns
Noils (snarls)
Fuzzy
Uneven diameter
Bulky
Wide range of fiber lengths
Sizing called run and written like this: 2/50
Worsted
Made from combed yarns
Smooth with little fuzz
Even diameter
Tightly twisted
May shine
Firm
Size called worsted and written like this: 2/50 Swatch 2
Swatch 2
12. Woolen Yarn Worsted Yarn
13. Spinning Methods Ring (Conventional) Method Opening
Loosens the bale, blends and cleans fibers, forms lap
Carding
Cleans and aligns fibers, forms carded sliver
Drawing
Makes parallel and blends fibers, forms drawn sliver
May create fiber blends now
14. Combing
Makes parallel and removes short fibers (noils), forms combed (top) sliver (used only for long-staple cotton or worsted)
Roving
Reduces size, inserts slight twist, forms roving
Spinning
Reduces size, twists, winds the finished yarn on bobbins
Winding
Rewinds yarns from bobbins to spools or cones
15. Other Spinning Methods Open-end Rotor Spun Method (O-E)
eliminates some aligning steps
4x faster production than ring method
coarser yarns with poorer uniformity and poorer strength
commonly used for denim fabric
Air-jet Spun Method
coarser, weaker, and less elastic
better cover (bulk)
Vortex Spun Method
2x faster than OE
20-30 x faster than ring spinning
Not as uniform as ring spun
16. BLEND = two or more fibers mixed in one yarn
intimate blends
combines good and bad properties of fibers
spun blends most popular; filament blends available
COMBINATION = ply yarns; each ply is 1 generic type of yarn
Metallics; fasciated yarns
MIXTURE = yarns of different generic types used within a fabric (warp is 1 type, weft is another)
Blends - Swatches 28, 30, 50, 74, 77, 79, 87
Mixtures - Swatches 14, 19, 21, 29, 37, 40 89, 91, 100
Blends - Swatches 28, 30, 50, 74, 77, 79, 87
Mixtures - Swatches 14, 19, 21, 29, 37, 40 89, 91, 100
17. YARN TWIST Turns per inch = tpi
Soft twist
Soft, fluffy yarns; napping twist; 2 - 12 tpi
Average twist
most durable staple yarns; not used with filaments
Hard twist
high or voile twist; smooth, firm and kinky yarns; 20 - 30 tpi
Crepe twist
highest twist; lively yarns; require special treatment; 40-80 tpi
Filament yarns - very low twist (1/2 - 1 tpi)
Swatches: 11 (high), 31 (medium), 2 (low)Swatches: 11 (high), 31 (medium), 2 (low)
18. Effects of Twist on Yarn and Fabric Fineness
Contraction
Bending behavior
Absorbency
Covering power
Permeability
Softness or hardness
Tensile strength
Extension and recovery
Resistance to creases and abrasion
Pilling behavior
Luster
19. Up to the
left
S twist Left – Right Twist Up to the
right
Z twist
21. Why is Yarn Plied? Introduce different fiber yarns
Combine spun and filament yarns
Improve strength of a singles
Make thicker, smoother strand
Make more stable yarn and fabric
Add texture or novelty yarn but maintain strength
Add color interest
22. Ply Yarns …. Are more expensive
Require better quality fiber, more labor, special machinery
Most fabrics are made of singles
23. Yarn Size Systems Relationship between weight of yarns and certain length of yarn
Yarn sizes
Yarn-count systems (spun yarns)
cotton, lea, run, worsted
Denier system (filament yarns)
d = denier
dpf = denier per filament
Tex system (mostly for thread)
Tex and d-tex
24. Yarn Count System
Larger the size number, finer the yarn
Sheer lawn = 70s to 100s
Calico = 30s to 40s
Written as 50/2 (yarn count + number of plies)
Denier System
Higher the denier, larger the yarn
1 d yarn: 9000 meters of yarn weighs 1 gram
2 d yarn: 9000 meters of yarn weighs 2 grams
Sheer hosiery = 20 d
Luggage = 100 d
Tex System
25. Spun yarns = yarn count system
Spun yarns may be plied
Size is expressed as 50/2 count
(or if woolen or worsted as 2/50)
(2 yarns are twisted together & each yarn size
is 50/1 count)
An equivalent sized singles yarn would be size 25 count (50 divided by 2)
26. Filament yarns = denier system
Filament yarns are seldom plied but when they are, the size is expressed as two-ply 80 denier
a singles yarn of comparable size would be
160 d. (80 x 2)
300-10-1/2 Z means a 300 denier multifilament yarn with 10 filaments (each 30 d.) with a half turn per inch and a Z-twist. This is NOT a plied yarn.
27. SPECIAL YARN TYPES Microdenier
Stretch
Novelty
Chenille
Metallic
28. MICRODENIER YARNS Developed in late 1980s
Finer filaments than silk (less than 1 denier)
Extremely soft and drapable
Expensive
29. STRETCH YARNS POWER STRETCH
Holding power is required
Highly elastic yarns
High recovery force COMFORT STRETCH
Designed to yield with body movement
Low recovery force
Fabrics look the same as nonstretch
30. Types of Stretch Yarns Bare Elastic
Covered Elastic
Core-spun
Textured yarns
Grin-through
Unrecovered stretch
31. Covered elastic
Core spun
32. Texturized yarns are widely used as comfort stretch yarns. False-twist method Stuffer box method
Knife-edge method Air-jet method
Gear crimping Knit-deknit method
Thermoplastic fibers made texturizing possible.
Slack mercerized yarns
Yarns with texture vs. texturized yarns
33. NOVELTY YARNS Fancies
Yarns not uniform in thickness
- seed - spiral or corkscrew
- nub - slub
- thick and thin - boucle
34. CHENILLE YARNS Pile twisted between 2 core yarns
Low abrasion resistance
Prone to pilling and balding
35. METALLIC YARNS Flat, ribbon-like
Tape yarns
Metallics and olefins
Supported by wrapping with filament yarns
combination yarns
Fasciated yarns
Usually for decorative purposes
36. SEWING THREADS Main fibers: cotton, nylon, polyester, rayon
Main yarn types:
Spun
Filament
Core spun
Always plied
Highly twisted
Often treated with special finishes or lubricants
37. THREAD FINISHES Mercerization
Soft
Glace
Bonded
Flame resistant and heat resistant for high speed sewing
Lubricated
38. THREAD SELECTION FACTORS Type of materials to be stitched together
Type of seaming used
Product performance expected
Method of cleaning