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Sewing

Sewing process

sheshir
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Sewing

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  1. †mjvB Kib: (Sewing)  †cvkvK ‣Zixi cÖwµqv mg~‡ni g‡a¨ †mjvB KiY cÖwµqv me‡P‡q ¸i‚Z¡c~Y©| †mjvB KiY ej‡ZB Avgiv m~B I m~Zvi mvnv‡h¨ Kvco †Rvov jvMv‡bv eywS| Kvco †Rvov jvMv‡bvi Rb¨ †h mKj c×wZ e¨eüZ nq Zv‡`i g‡a¨ m~B I m~Zvi mvnv‡h¨ Kvco †Rvov jvMv‡bvi c×wZ A`¨vew` m‡e©vrK…ó I me‡P‡q eûj e¨eüZ c×wZ|  †cvkvK wk‡í †mjvB Kivi Rb¨ m~B I m~Zv †gwk‡bi mvnv‡h¨ A_©vr †mjvB †gwk‡bi mvnv‡h¨ wbqš¿Y Kiv nq|

  2. wQg (Seam)  †h †iLv eivei GKvwaK ciZv Kvco †Rvov jvMv‡bv nq H †iLv‡K wQg e‡j|  Kvco †mjvB K‡i ev weKí †Kvb c×wZ‡Z †Rvov jvMv‡jB wQg Drcv`b nq|  †mjvB Gi g~L¨ D‡Ïk¨ Ggb GKwU wQg •Zix Kiv hvi †Pnviv Ges ¸bv¸b †hb Av`k© gvb m¤úbœ (Standard Quality Level) nq I Kg Li‡P •Zix Kiv nq|

  3. wQ‡gi •ewkó¨ (Properties of Seam)  fvj †Pnviv m¤úbœ wQg ej‡Z eySvq †h wQ‡gi g‡a¨ †mjvB Gi GKK mg~n (Stitches) mwVK I mylg mvB‡Ri Drcbœ n‡q‡Q Ges Kvc‡oi †Kvb ÿwZ mvab nq bvB|  Dciš‘ †mjvB †iLv eivei Kvco gm„b _vK‡Z A_©vr Kvco †hb KzuP‡K bv _v‡K| hw`I wQ‡gi g‡a¨ Kvc‡oi KzuwP MÖnY ‡hvM¨ bq Z_vwc KL‡bv KL‡bv we‡lk wWRvBb m„wói Rb¨ wQ‡gi g‡a¨ Kvc‡oi KzuwP B‛QvK…Z fv‡eB •Zix Kiv nq|  †cvkvK •Zixi ci e¨envi Kivi mgq A_ev cwi®‥vi Kivi ci wQ‡gi †Pnviv †hb wVK _v‡K Zv wbwðZ Ki‡Z n‡e|

  4. wQ‡gi •ewkó¨ (Properties of Seam)  wQ‡gi kw³ Kvc‡oi kw³i mgvb A_ev Kvc‡oi kw³i †P‡q Kg kw³ m¤úbœ nIqv DwPr| wQ‡gi kw³ Kvc‡oi kw³i †P‡q ‡ekx n‡j AbvKvw“LZ fv‡e AZ¨vwaK ej cÖ‡qv‡Mi Kvi‡Y Kvco wQ‡o †h‡Z cv‡i hv Avgv‡`i Kvg¨ bq|  ej cÖ‡qv‡Mi Kvi‡Y †cvkv‡Ki Kvco m¤cÖmvwiZ (Stretched) n‡Z cv‡i, ZLb †cvkv‡Ki Kvco m¤cÖmvi‡Yi mv‡_ mv‡_ wQgI m¤cÖmvwiZ n‡Z n‡e Ges ej AcmvwiZ nIqvi ci Kvc‡oi mv‡_ mv‡_ wQgI c~‡e©i AvqZ‡b wd‡i Avm‡Z n‡e|  ‡cvkvK I †cvkv‡Ki Kvco hZw`b n‡e wQgI †hb Kgc‡¶ ZZw`b †UKmB nq| we‡kl K‡i e¨env‡ii mgq I cwi¯‥vi Kivi mgq Nl©Y RwbZ Kvi‡Y wQg bó ev ¶wZMÖ¯’ bv nq|

  5. wQ‡gi •ewkó¨ (Properties of Seam)  ‡cvkvK e¨env‡ii mgq ¯^fvweK Kvi‡Y nVvr wm‡gi m~Zv Ly‡j ev wQ‡o hvIqvi Kvi‡Y wQg †hb Ly‡j bv hvq Zvi wbðqZv _vK‡Z n‡e, Ab¨_vq bvRyK cwiw¯’wZi D™¢e n‡Z cv‡i|  wKQy wKQy †cvkvK †hgb Rvw½qv, †MwÄ ev eªv BZ¨vw` hv kix‡ii mv‡_ Nwbófv‡e †j‡M _v‡K H mKj †cvkv‡Ki wQg Giƒc n‡Z n‡e hv‡Z e¨env‡ii mgq ‡Kvb cÖKvi A¯^w¯’ ev Amyweavi m„wó bv nq|

  6. wQ‡gi cÖKvi‡f` (Seam Types)  wQg K‡qK kZ cÖKvi n‡Z cv‡i Ges G¸wj‡K cÖavbZ QqwU †kªYx‡Z fvM Kiv n‡q‡Q| cÖwZwU †kªYxi wQg m¤ú‡K© Qwe mn wb‡æ Av‡jvPbv Kiv n‡q‡Q| †mjvB †iLv eivei Kvc‡oi cÖv‡š—i web¨vm‡K wQg UvBc e‡j|

  7. mycvi Bg‡cvRW wQg (Superimposed Seam)  †cvkvK •Zixi †¶‡Î G †kªbxi wQg me‡P‡q eûj cÖPwjZ (Most Common) |  G †kªYxf~³ wQg me‡P‡q mn‡R •Zix Kiv hvq, Giƒc wQg¸wj GKwU Kvc‡oi cÖv‡š—i Dci Aci GKwU Kvc‡oi cÖvš— mylg fv‡e ewm‡q I †mjvB K‡i •Zix Kiv nq|  we‡kl K‡i Rvgv Ges c¨v‡›Ui mvBW wQ‡g (Side Seam) Bnv‡`i e¨envi LyeB †ekx|

  8. mycvi Bg‡cvRW wQg (Superimposed Seam)

  9. ‡jcW wQg (Lapped Seam)  G †kªYxi Aš—f©~³ wQg¸wj Kgc‡¶ `ywU Kvco Øviv •Zix Kiv nq| wQ‡gi †iLv eivei †mjvBK…Z Kvc‡oi cÖvš— `ywU mvaviYZ wecixZ w`‡K _v‡K I GKwUi cÖvš— AciwUi Dci Pvcv‡bv (Overlap) _v‡K|  †cvkvK ‣Zixi †¶‡Î G wQgwU LyeB Kg e¨envi Kiv nq KviY Kvc‡oi gy³ cªvš— n‡Z m~Zv Ly‡j mgm¨vi m„wó K‡i|

  10. ‡jcW wQg (Lapped Seam)

  11. evDÛ wQg (Bound Seam)  G †kªYxi wQg •Zix Ki‡Z Kgc‡¶ `ywU Kvco jv‡M| GKwU Kvc‡oi cÖvš— Ab¨ KvcowU Øviv gy‡o (Bounded) †`Iqv nq weavq evDÛ wQg e‡j|  †h KvcowU Øviv gy‡o †`Iqv nq H KvcowU mvaviYZ wfbœ i‡Oi e¨envi Kiv nq| G †kªYxi wQg mvaviYZ †cvkvK •Zixi Rb¨ e¨envi Kiv nqbv, KviY †h KvcowU Øviv g~‡o †`Iqv nq Dnvi cÖvš— n‡Z m~Zv Ly‡j hvq | evDÛ wQg •Zixi Rb¨ †mjvB †gwk‡b †dvìvi e¨envi Kiv `iKvi nq|  evDÛ wQg mvaviYZ †MwÄ, Rvw½qv, c¨v›U, †g‡q‡`i †cvkvK, w¯- wcs my¨U BZ¨vw`‡Z e¨envi Kiv nq|

  12. evDÛ wQg (Bound Seam)

  13. d¬vU wQg (Flat Seam)  `yBwU Kvc‡oi cÖvš— †Rvov jvwM‡q G †kªYxi wQg •Zix Kiv nq Z‡e cÖvš— `ywU cvkvcvwk Ae¯’vb K‡i A_©vr GKwU cÖvš— Ab¨wUi Dci ¯’vcb (Overlap) Kiv nq bv|  gv‡S gv‡S †m․›`‡h©i D‡Ï‡k¨ (Decorative Purpose) cÖvš— `ywUi g‡a¨ dvK (Gap) †i‡LI wQg •Zix Kiv nq|  wb‡UW Kvc‡oi ‡cvkvK •Zix‡Z I AvÛvi Mv‡g©›Um G eûj fv‡e e¨envi Kiv nq|

  14. d¬vU wQg (Flat Seam)

  15. ‡kvfvcÖ` wQg (Decorative Seam)  G †kªYxi wQg‡K c~‡e© †W‡Kv‡iwUf wówPs ejv n‡Zv| cÖavbZ G †kªYxi wQg Drcbœ I e¨envi Kiv nq †cvkv‡Ki †kvfv ev †m․›`h© e„w×i Rb¨ Ges G Kvi‡YB †W‡Kv‡iwUf wQg e‡j|  GK ciZv (Layer) ev GKvwaK ciZv Kvc‡oi g‡a¨ GKwU ev GKvwaK cvkvcvwk w÷‡Pi jvBb •Ziix K‡i G †kªYxi wQg •Zix Kiv nq|  wPÎ bs-7/5 G K‡qK cÖKvi †W‡Kv‡iwUf wQg †`Lv‡bv n‡q‡Q| Gme wQg •Zix Ki‡Z GKvwaK m~B wewkó (Multi Needle) †mjvB †gwkb I Dnvi mv‡_ †dvìvi `iKvi nq|

  16. ‡kvfvcÖ` wQg (Decorative Seam)

  17. cÖvš— wb‡Uwbs (Edge Neatening)  G †kªYxi wQg cÖavbZ GKwU Kvc‡oi cÖv‡š— Ggb fv‡e •Zix Kiv nq hv‡Z Kvc‡oi cÖvš— n‡Z Kvc‡oi ga¨¯’ m~Zv †ei n‡q Avm‡Z bv cv‡i|

  18. cÖvš— wb‡Uwbs (Edge Neatening)

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