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12.02 Basic Construction. Pinning a Pattern. Define: Grain Selvage Grain line arrow. Pinning a Pattern. Must place pattern on fabric lengthwise grain Each end of the grain line arrow should measure the same distance from the selvage Pin the pattern in place every 6 inches
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Pinning a Pattern • Define: • Grain • Selvage • Grain line arrow
Pinning a Pattern • Must place pattern on fabric lengthwise grain • Each end of the grain line arrow should measure the same distance from the selvage • Pin the pattern in place every 6 inches • Pin corners diagonally • Pin perpendicular to fold lines and cutting lines • Make sure pin through fabric and pattern
Cutting a Pattern • Define: • Cutting Line • Notches • Pattern guide sheet • Dots
Cutting a Pattern • Notches are used to match pattern pieces • Use long even strokes with dressmaker shears
Cutting fabric with pattern • Check pattern guide • Follow directions carefully • Double check grain before cutting • Use dressmaker shears
Tracing a Pattern • Use tracing paper and tracing wheel on wrong side of the fabric • Use just enough pressure for marks to show • Marks needed: • Center front • Center back • Darts • Buttons • Button holes • Dots • pockets
Sewing a Simple Seam • Define: • Seam • Stitching Line • Seam allowance
Sewing a simple seam • Seam finishes are sewn after seam to prevent raw edges • Use pinking shears (easiest) • Zigzag finish • Use stitch width control • 5/8” is standard seam allowance • Use guide line on machine • Always backstitch at the beginning and end • Presser foot must be down
Sewing on a Button • Define: • Shank
Sewing on a Button • Use 2 strands of thread • Cross over to make an X with thread while sewing on button
Sewing a Hem • Final step • Mark where hem should be • Needs to be flat • Types of finishes • Turn and stitch • Stitch and pinked • Zigzag • Seam Binding