Potassium Undecylenoyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein from plants a new interesting surfactant

1. The New Frontiers of Dermo-Cosmetology 7° ISCD International Congress - Roma November 4-5-6 2004 Ariotto A., Guala F., Merlo E., Gazzaniga1 G., Villa G., Rigano L2. - Zschimmer & Schwarz Italiana, via Vercelli 81, 13038 Tricerro (VC), 1 Consultant, 2 L. Rigano Laboratoires, Milano Potassium Undecylenoyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Proteinfrom plants a new interesting surfactant 1 2 Dandruff regulation The addition of 4% of product (as it is, 36% sol.) to a 10.5% a.m. solution of SLES (sample A) has the same effectiveness than a solution of 11.25% of SLES added with 0.75% Piroctone Olamine (sample B). Figure 2 shows the obtained results (decrease of corneocytes weight). Figure 1 Figure 2 Undecylenic derivatives are well known in cosmetics and widely used; undecylenic soaps, amides and betaines have been already on the market for many years in antidandruff and mycotic growth control field. In order to obtain a new mild surfactant with multifunctional properties undecylenic acid was grafted to hydrolyzed wheat protein residue obtaining so Potassium Undecylenoyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein. Figure 1 shows the molecule structure. 3 The sensitization potential of the product in comparison with the classical antidandruff agents was studied. Figure 3 shows cytokines (IL-1) release on reconstructed artificial skin comparing the behaviour of different antidandruff molecules. As it is possible to see production of pro-inflammatory cytokines by Potassium Undecylenoyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein after 18 h is lower than with classical antidandruff agents. where R is CH2 = CH – (CH2)8 – 4 Table 1 shows the MIC values of Potassium Undecylenoyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein against microorganisms responsible for skin and hair disorders (as it is, 36% sol.). Table 1 Figure 3 5 Potassium Undecylenoyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein was proved to be mild and safe for skin and hair through in vivo (patch test, hypoallergenicity test) and in vitro tests (MTT test on keratinocytes, interleukines secretion).