Dr Lindsey Carey Dr Barbara Jenkinson Susan Walkinshaw

1. Smelling of roses: Issues surrounding mature female consumers decision-making in the fragrance industry Dr Lindsey Carey Dr Barbara Jenkinson Susan Walkinshaw

2. “ A fragrant liquid typically made from essential oils extracted from flowers and spices used to give a pleasant smell to one’s body.” Oxford English Dictionary • “When a woman buys perfume, she buys much, much more than simply fluids. The perfume image, its promises, its scent, its name and package, the company that makes it, the stores that sell it – all become a part of the total perfume product.” Cant et al., 2006:192 Perfume Glasgow Caledonian University

3. Market worth £1.1bn (worldwide £16bn) • Growth rate of market is estimated at 16.5% • 68% of fragrances are geared towards women • 85% of women use perfume daily • Profitable 25-34 yr old female consumer segment is in decline • Mature segment (over 44) is growing UK market Glasgow Caledonian University

4. New product introductions are a regular occurrence • Often led by celebrities • Characterised by gift purchases (mainly by women) • Spend has not reduced even in times of economic recession UK Market Glasgow Caledonian University

5. According to the % of concentrated oils the fragrance includes (Perfume, Eau de Parfum, Eau de Toilette, Eau de Cologne) • By fragrance categories (Floral/Oriental/Woody and Fresh) • By manufacturer (4 multinationals own 45% of brands) • By category of fragrance “premium” and “mass market” Market segmentation Glasgow Caledonian University

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7. Mature consumer behaviour (Fox et al., 1984; Lunsford & Burnett, 1992; Gilly & Zeithhaml, 1985; Moschis & Mathur, 2006; Uncles & Lee, 2006; Lambert-Pandraud & Laurent, 2010) • Innovativeness (Laukkanen et al., 2007; Manning et al., 1995; Wang & Zhou, 2008) • Relationship theory (Fournier, 1998; Chaudhuri & Holbrook, 2001; Thomson et al., 2005; Park et al., 2010; Grisaffe & Nguyen, 2011) • Attachment (Ball & Tasaki, 1992; Kleine & Baker, 2004; Mugge et al., 2006; Belaid & Behi, 2011; Patwardhan & Balasubramanian; 2011) • Nostalgia/heritage (Belk, 1990; Holbrook & Schindler, 1991; Holbrook, 1993; Divard & Robert-Demontrond, 1997) Theoretical framework Glasgow Caledonian University

8. Previous research • Nostalgia has little influence • Strong brands facilitate attachment • Innovation intense in the perfume market Investigate issues surrounding the purchasing of fragrance brands by mature women with particular reference to nostalgia and attachment within the UK market Research Problem Glasgow Caledonian University

9. Qualitative interviews with fragrance consultants (n=10) • Qualitative interviews with industry experts (n=4) • Survey distributed to women (age 44+) at point of sale of a specialist fragrance retailer (n =117) Methods Glasgow Caledonian University

10. 3 age groups • 44-60 (61%) Mature • 61-75 (31%) Old Mature • 76+ (8%) Grand Mature • Ownership of 3 bottles (as age increases number of bottles owned decreases) • High users of fragrance (84% use it daily) Descriptive results Glasgow Caledonian University

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12. Fragrance/brand builds a significant emotional relationship with customer “passion, happiness, love, completely love vs upset, very upset, distraught, quite gutted, great disappointment, totally disappointed, devastated” • Enhances and helps create self concept and identity/ through brand engagement, scent (inc. signature scent), personality and association “because perfume is a personal thing, I could walk into a room and know someone through the perfume they are wearing” “you can associate characteristics with fragrances, for example, I would associate a stronger more pungent smell with a confident person and sweeter fragrances with someone who is more bubbly” Attachment Glasgow Caledonian University

13. Association “I think it’s an image thing so they won’t be embarrassed if someone asks what fragrance they are wearing, they wouldn’t want to say something like Kylie Minogue, they would rather say YSL or Dior” Glasgow Caledonian University

14. Memories of events and emotional attachments create nostalgia (including displaced or removed attachments) “ I wouldn’t show someone at twenty years old L’Instant de Guerlain but she might come in and ask for it because her grandmother wore it “and I just adore my grandmother and I want to wear it and I love it”. I’m not going to say she can’t” “they say that reminds me of blah, blah, blah times, they are emotionally attached and they start telling you stories about the times they have worn the fragrance” • The older the consumer the preference for long established heritage brands increases Nostalgia Glasgow Caledonian University

15. Age related when associated with gift/occasion purchases “if someone came in looking for a gift the question of the age of the recipient would be one of the first questions I would ask” • Incentives are important in this market (price promotions/free gifts) • Celebrity endorsement is dominating for new launch of fragrances • Heritage/luxury/classic brands are being re-launched Other determinants related to fragrance purchasing Glasgow Caledonian University

16. Perfume is in a product category of its own • Consumers purchase on association, emotional connection and self-image construction • Ambivalence of segmentation of consumer market related to age Conclusion Glasgow Caledonian University