Innovation in Textiles: Trends and Challenges

1. Dr. Umer Farooq • Ph.D. in Textile Machatronics from University of Leads, UK • M.Sc. University of Leads, UK • Chartered Textile Technologist. • 8 years Research and Teaching Experience • Specialization: Yarn Spinning Topic Innovation in Textiles: Trends and Challenges

2. INNOVATION IN TEXTILES: Trends and Challenges Dr. Tahir Shah CMRI, University of Bolton, UK Dr. Umer Farooq University of Management and Technology, Lahore

3. CONTENTS • What is innovation? • Innovation - The Global Textile Industry • Pakistani Textile Industry Perspective • Industry – University Interaction • The Way Forward • Conclusions

4. INTRODUCTION • The global textile industry is increasingly facing competition from low-wage countries • Innovations in the production, composition and application of new textiles will be able to create stability in this sector • New technologies in textile production and processing are driving innovation in high-tech textile products • New processes will lead to new products and hence to an expansion of the traditional textile industries, both in terms of supply and production • Increasing globalization, new technologies and a growing demand for new products are changing the textiles market.

5. What is Innovation? “Innovation is not the product of logical thought, although the result is tied to logical structure" Albert Einstein

6. A definition of Innovation! • There are various definitions of innovation, • depending on the context. • Innovation is a process for transforming: Research Based Ideas Commercial Value

7. “TO GROW, COMPANIES NEED TO BREAK OUT OF A VICIOUS CYCLE OF COMPETETIVE BENCHMARKING AND IMMITATION” W.Chan Kim & Rene Mauborgne, “Think for yourself – Stop Copying a Rival”, Financial Times, 08-11-03

8. Main Objectives of Innovation INNOVATION

9. The Innovation Process • An innovation starts as a concept that is refined and developed before application. ADAPTATION AND MARKETING BASIC RESEARCH PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT (Including market research) APPLIED RESEARCH

10. Components of an Innovation System

11. Benefits of R&D Development Investment in Innovation Research Consumer Benefits and Satisfaction New Products/ Processes More Jobs More Goods Higher GNP Company Profits Increased Investment

12. Textile Industry: The need to Innovate • The Textile industry is subject to strong pressures in a fast- changing business environment due to two main factors: • Market volatility and • Strong competition world-wide • The industry need to enhance its capability to produce and • market high quality and added value products • This requires emphasis on new technology, design, • marketing and management • Textile manufacturers must consider when/how to innovate

13. Size of Major Global Industrial Sectors Annual Sales (US$ Bn) Military 800 Machine construction 800 Automotive 1100 Chemicals 1320 Textiles 1620 Information technology 2850 Tourism 2900

14. LEADERS IN TEXTILE INNOVATION: Industries LEADERS IN INNOVATION: Industries

15. LEADERS IN TEXTILE INNOVATION: COUNTRIES

16. Some important market aspects • Market pull from fresh approach to future life • styles/fashion • Aging population – better quality of life • Changing market – Changes in needs • Highly functional sports and leisure wear • Personal protection, safety and comfort • Integration of textile technology, electronics and • communication technologies

17. Increasing textile customer demands • Hydrophobic • Hydrophilic • Anti-bacterial • Barrier • Breathability • Antistatic • Stretch • Smart/Intelligent • It is the consumer demand that leads to new innovative technologies and value added textile materials.

18. Factors impacting the future generation of textiles Raw Materials Processes Impacting Factors Functionalities Environment Flexibility: Small batches, Just in time Customized production New polymers, Renewable materials Dynamic properties, Anti-microbial Self-cleaning, Smart textiles, Comfort Water use, Energy use Chemicals, Working conditions, Disposal, Recyling

19. Emerging finishing technologies for textiles • Plasma technology • Atmospheric and low-pressure Treatments • Microencapsulation technology • Functional fabric finishing • Nanotechnology • Nano coating, Electrospinning

20. What is Nanotechnology? Nanotechnology deals with the science and technology at dimensions of roughly 1 to 100 nanometers (nm). 1 Billion Nanometres = 1 Metre 100 nanometers presently is the practically attainable dimension for textile products and applications.

21. Growth of Nanotechnology The nature of nanotechnology research and development suggests that nanomaterials production is going to impact every industry, including textiles.

22. Nanotechnology currently being developed and used • Nanotechnology can be used in engineering desired textile attributes: • Fabric softness, durability, and breathability • Developing advanced performance characteristics, namely: • Water repellency, fire retardancy, antimicrobial resistance, etc. • In the forms of: • Polymeric nanofibres • Conjugate fibres containing nano-particles • Textile materials with nanofinishes • Textile coatings containing nano-particles • Nanotechnology presents a tremendous opportunity for the global textile industry to generate new products that could energize the economy, solve major societal problems, revitalize existing industry, and create entirely new businesses.

23. Impact of Nanotechnology on Textiles Industry • A recent report shows that: • The global market for nanotechnology in the Textiles industry was • around US$480 million in 2007. • A number of nano-based products have already been introduced to the • sector including stain, water and fire resistant fabrics. • Nano-based products and processes will be worth US$4.9 billion to the • Textiles industry by 2015. • Nearly 25% of all textiles products available in 2015 will incorporate some • form of nanotechnology -hygiene area, which covers numerous • markets from household care to leisure and consumer goods to healthcare. • Nanotechnology based applications such self-cleaning textiles as will start • to make a major impact from 2011.

24. Nanotechnology: functional finishing • The functional finishing are processes which impart specific performance properties to fabrics • For example finishes that: • Improve comfort • Improve ease of maintenance • Improve durability • Provide environmental protection • Provide biological resistance • Self-cleaning fibres Smallthingscan create bigbusinesses !!!

25. Active Areas of Textile R&D: Functional Textiles • Fragrance release textiles • Photocatalytic textile coatings • Shape Memory Polymers for Intelligent textiles • Self-Cleaning Fabrics • Carbon Nanotubes for Electronic Textiles • Multifunctional Coatings for Medical Textile Applications • Textile switches and sensors, and electronic noses • Bioactive wound dressings • Electrically conductive textiles • Stain and water repellent textiles • Healing textiles

26. Applications of Nanotechnology Based Textiles Protective/functional Nanofibres and Fibres containing nanoparticles Hospital/healthcare Automotive parts Added Value Textiles Smart clothing Finishes and coatings of nano-based materials Aerospace/defence Sports/leisure Filter media

27. Innovation: A Pakistani Textile Industry Perspective

28. Pakistani Textile Industry: As It appears -- • Pakistani textile industry is a major contributor to the economy of the country • The sector has not yet realised its full potential • The industry is still too traditionally minded • The industry needs to take full advantage of the developments in the global arena

30. Export of Textile Products – from 1971 - 2006 Source: Textile Commission Organisation -TCO / Central Statistics Office, Pakistan

31. (US $ 10.211 B Pakistan Textile Industry: A snapshot Exports US $ 10.211 BN (62.1% OF TOTAL EXPORTS) Manufacturing 46% OF TOTAL MANUFACTURING Employment 38% OF TOTAL LABOUR FORCE GDP 8.5% OF TOTAL GDP Contribution to R&D RS 263 MILLION (<0.05% of Textile exports!)

32. Global R&D spending targets

33. Innovation Index of selected countries in a study conducted in 2009 of 82 countries across the world. Patents data are averaged over 2004-07 and expressed as patents per million population for each country- Economist 2009

34. Innovation Performance Index of selected countries over a period of 5 years (2009 to 2013) Economist 2009

35. (US $ 10.211 B CMRI Bolton University: Examples of Current Innovative R&D • Wound dressings/bandages • Wearable devices (Breast Cancer Detection) • Active cooling fabrics • Conducting flexible materials • Auxetic Fibres • Ballistic protection composite • Hybrid geotextiles • Nanocomposites

36. (US $ 10.211 B Pakistan Textile Industry: The Way Forward • Pakistani textile industry must adopt a fresh approach to technology adoption • The companies and government need to invest resources into R&D • Develop the ability to create specialized products • These could include textiles made using new technologies – woven, • knitting, nonwoven, etc. • New products – surgical gowns, geotextiles, fabrics used in agriculture, • high-fashion apparel, and fire-resistant work-wear. • The textile industry should be a knowledge-intensive industry - willing to look • for and apply knowledge

37. Trying to match low-wage countries with low cost production - Surely a losing strategy.

38. (US $ 10.211 B Pakistan Textile Industry: What is needed? • Improve infrastructure services as a foundation for technology development • Improve higher education in science and engineering • Link universities with private sector activities • Breakdown barriers between university departments • Promote innovative activities in science & technology • Improve policy to create/promote innovative environment • Focus on strategic and under-funded research areas

39. (US $ 10.211 B Pakistan Textile Industry: Some Specific Actions • Establish Centres of Excellence > Education > R&D > Targeted workshops/training programmes • Focus on new and emerging technologies > Technical textiles > Nonwovens > Medical Textiles > Geotextiles > Nanotechnology > Effluent minimisation and treatment/disposal

40. (US $ 10.211 B Innovation: Industry-University Interaction • Benefits of universities, industry and society working together: • Sponsored research projects: funding, equipment and resource donations • Shared knowledge • Source of employment • New idea generation • Universities and industrial organisations have much to gain • from each other • There is a strong need to improve interaction between these • two important sectors • This will enhance innovative activities in the textile sector • An effective mechanism is needed to nurture this interaction

41. (US $ 10.211 B CONCLUSIONS • Innovation has become the major driving • force in economic growth and social • development in the West. • This is reflected by the fact that Western • countries are promoting innovation as one • of their core strategies. • Providing support for activities and • initiatives that promote an innovative and • knowledge driven economy.

42. A Final Thought !!!!! • There are three kinds of organizations: • Those that resist change • Those that accept change • Those that seek change

43. Surely Allah does not change the condition of a people until they change their own condition. [Al-Qur'an (13:11)]

44. INNOVATIONIS NOT AN ABSOLUTE NECESSITY BUT THEN NEITHER IS SURVIVAL! Thank you