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Basic Construction Standards for Quality Garments: Seams, Seam Finishes, Closures, Hems, Facings, Sleeves/Cuffs, Collars

Learn about the basic construction standards for quality garments, including techniques for seams, seam finishes, closures, hems, facings, sleeves/cuffs, collars, and fit and function. Explore vocabulary related to garment construction and understand how to reduce bulk in seams for a proper fit. Ensure the quality of seam construction, seam finishes, closures (including zippers), and hems. Make garments that are comfortable and have a proper fit with adequate ease and silhouette lines that follow the body.

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Basic Construction Standards for Quality Garments: Seams, Seam Finishes, Closures, Hems, Facings, Sleeves/Cuffs, Collars

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  1. Basic construction standards A. Quality 1. Seams 2. Seam finishes 3. Closures 4. Hems 5. Facings 6. Sleeves/cuffs 7. Collars B. Fit and/or function 1. Garment fit 2. Function of apparel item

  2. Vocabulary Hook and Loop Tape Facing Hook and Bar Snaps Bound (Hem or Seam) Finish Nap Clipping Pinked Finish Grading Hem Notching Waistband Trimming Turned and Stitched Finish Interfacing (different weights and uses) Easing Gathering Casing Cuff Under stitching

  3. Quality of Seam Construction Seams in manufacturing should have at least a ½” seam allowance AppearanceBulk FinishFullness PlacementPressing ReinforcedStitch length TensionThread Width

  4. Reducing Bulk in Seams for Proper Fit Clip inside curve to allow seam to lie flat. Notch outside curve to eliminate bulk Trim outside corner to eliminate bulk Trim seam to eliminate bulk Grade seam to eliminate bulk, eliminate ridge from showing on right side

  5. Quality of Seam Finishes Seam Finishes - finish according to fabric, design, and use of garment Appearance of seam finishes should be flat & smooth with no raveling Types of Seam Finishes Unfinished Pinked Edge stitched Zigzag

  6. Quality of Seam Finishes continued Hand overcast Clean or Turned and Stitched Double stitched Bound Serged

  7. Quality of Closures (including zippers) Hook & Loop Tape – a "hook" side, which is piece of fabric covered with tiny plastic hooks & "loop" side, which is covered in equally tiny plastic loops Hook & Bar – Two-piece metal fastening Snaps – Metal fasteners

  8. Quality of Closures (including zippers) Appearance Covering Placement Reinforced Spacing Stitching Suitable

  9. Quality of Closures Buttons ReinforcedShank SizeSpacing StitchingType Buttonholes AppearanceGrain LengthPlacementSpacing Width

  10. Hems should hang parallel to floor. To hem, cut edges are folded up, folded up again, then sewed down. Cut edges are enclosed in cloth, so that they can't ravel Appearance Ease Hand stitching Pressing Seams Topstitching Width

  11. Interfacings & Under stitching Interfacing Interfacings can be used to: Stiffen or add body (crispness) to fabric Strengthen a certain area of the fabric Keep fabrics from stretching out of shape Under stitchingensures that a facing won't roll to the outside of your garment.

  12. A Facing is the area of a garment or sewn item that turns to the inside, giving a finished appearance to what would otherwise just be a raw edge of fabric. The facing is usually interfaced to add shape to the edge of the fabric. Facings Appearance - flat, smooth, not visible from outside Bulk - seams graded, curves clipped and/or notched Edge Finish - appropriate to fabric; Facing edges free from ravelling (NO RAW EDGES) Securing – under stitched where appropriate; tacked only at seam allowances and darts or stitch-in-the ditch method used where appropriate (as on shoulder seam) Width - even unless pattern requires variation

  13. Sleeves Appearance Bulk Ease Gathers Pressing Reinforced Seam Finish Seams Sleeves can be finished hems, cuffs, or casings

  14. A Cuff is the lower edge of a sleeve (or pant leg) turned back to show an ornamental border Cuffs should fit comfortably around wrists Appearance Bulk Interfacing Grain Shape Width

  15. Collars Collars Appearance Bulk Grain Interfacing Shape Under stitching

  16. Fit and/or Function - WEARING EASE - Adequate ease for comfort - Fitting details (neckline, armhole, waistline) - Silhouette lines follow silhouette of body - Lengthwise grainline perpendicular to floor; crosswise grainline parallel to floor. - Hems are parallel to the floor - Darts point to & stop short of fullest part of area they fit - Free from strain and/or excess fullness

  17. Fit and/or Function cont’d - Waistbands should not bind or fit too tightly & should fall in correct position on body (waist, low rise etc.) - Crotch should besmooth, flat, free from pulling or drawing when sitting or bending. - Nap consists of fibers on the fabric surface that lie in one direction.

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