Potential and limits of natural dyes production in Europe

1. Potential and limits of natural dyes production in Europe Andr� FALISSE & Corina SCUBLI Crop Production Dpt Gembloux Agricultural University

2. Historical Since pre-historical times Research for colour for skin, Wear: leather, textiles, � Buildings and objects: paints Crafts and arts, Printing, Food, Distinctive labelling (seed dressing, �) �

3. Historical (2) Until 1890, all available dyes (pigments and tannins) were from �"natural" (i.e. mineral, animal, microbial or vegetal) origin, simply processed by chemical, biological or physical processes Production: from nature or from agriculture Problems: from agriculture, large areas were needed to satisfy world demand; Problems between old and new regions of production; substitution problems; economical competition, � Problems from "nature": overexploitation of species and empoverishiment of biodiversity, � Raw material and End-products: variable in quality, limited in quality, � Problems from preparation processes: pollution (air, water, soils, �)

4. Historical (3) From the end of 19th Cent.: progressively replaced by artificial (synthetic) dyes Advantages: diversity of colours, regulated (mastered) quality, reproductibility, � Problems: Chemical: toxic or dangereous reagants or intermediary products, Environmental: Pollution -> industrial sewage stations, Alimentary uses ?? � Recently: new attraction for "natural" products

5. Vegetal dyes: Diversity � Botanical diversity: Perennials vs annuals Lignous vs herbaceous Several families or genius ��specialised�� in dyes and tanins Ecological diversity: Tropical vs temperate; in Europe: mediteranean vs oceanic vs northern vs continental Soil: acidity, texture, structure, O.M., � Exploitation diversity: "On the wild" vs "cultivated" Family /Genius vs species/varieties Domestication Diversity of "technological" processes post-harvest treatments Dyestuffs preparation and uses

6. Diversity of current uses = potential markets (nature and dimensions) for vegetable dyes Textiles: growing demand for "fashion" wear, domestic textiles (housing), in relation with "organic agriculture" and "ecological way of living" Paints, varnishes,�: ?? dependance on political rules, laws, �?? Arts and crafts: pigments, colours,� unpredictive and "non reasonable" evolution Inks: demand and offer exist, demand could increase Edible dyes and related (medicinal, cosmetics,health and body cares,�): demand and offer exist;current offer < growing demand

7. Europe and Natural Dyes(1) ��On the wild�� and ��carefully cultivated�� dyesstuffs: a lot of constraints Ecological constraints Agro- technical constraints Socio- Economical constraints

8. Europe and Natural Dyes (2) ��On the wild�� and ��carefully cultivated�� dyesstuffs Ecological constraints Climate: Northern Europe and Southern (meditterranean) Europe Microclimate: local, shelters, greenhouses, plasticulture, � Soils and mineral requirements picked from the wild: biodiversity ? Agro- technical constraints Socio- Economical constraints

9. Europe and Natural Dyes (3) ��On the wild�� and ��carefully cultivated�� dyesstuffs Ecological constraints Agro- technical constraints Agricultural systems Farm organisation: work forces, Equipment, .. Crop improvement: genetical (breeding) and technical (ripening, harvesting, �) including weed control, place in the crop sequence, � Industrial infrastructure: light or heavy� Socio- Economical constraints

10. Europe and Natural Dyes (4) ��On the wild�� and ��carefully cultivated�� dyesstuffs Ecological constraints Agro- technical constraints: need for breeding, domestication, mechanisation, � Socio- Economical constraints Market: demand and tender, fashion effect, health, � Environmental: pollution by dyesstuffs preparation processes, � Crop acceptability: competition with other crops for other uses, global equity, �

11. Europe and Natural Dyes (5)a proposal � As a non specialist: a spreadsheet on Excell, ?

12. Proposal for "plant listing", chemicals listing and references ??

13. Proposal for "Tinctoria", a dyeplants and dyechemicals listing ------------------------------------------* 1 file: "Tinctoria"* 3 listings as "folders": Plants (120), Chemicals (40), References (7)* all that needs to be completed, improved, �too lazy and ignorant -> call for any help* the file is available at " www.fsagx.ac.be/pt" (fac. sc. agronomiques, gembloux) ??

14. If "Colour is Life", could it be that "Natural Colour is Natural Life " ? � Up to you, �!! Thanks A reflexion heard in the conference room: "This diapo-show acutely lacks colours�"