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Coastal Data Information Program: Wave Climatology for Rational Design Decisions

The Coastal Data Information Program (CDIP) at SIO collects and provides archived, processed, and available data on nearshore wave climatology. With operational stations and historical data from various coastal regions, CDIP supports rational design decisions for coastal projects. The program also offers modeling, nowcasts, forecasts, and measurements updated every 30 minutes. CDIP collaborates with other observing systems and plans to continue collecting new surveys and integrating data from Coastal Frontiers.

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Coastal Data Information Program: Wave Climatology for Rational Design Decisions

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  1. COASTALDATAINFORMATIONPROGRAM • Based at SIO • 14 People • $2M+ / year budget • Funded by: CDBW USACE (SCCOOS BEACON ONR…) CDIP Mission • Develop US nearshore wave climatology for more rational design decisions

  2. 27 Operational CDIP Stations California, Georgia, Guam, Hawaii, Oregon, Washington -------------------------------------------- 150 Historical Stations (1975-present) California, Georgia, Hawaii, Minnesota, North Carolina, Oregon, Virginia, Washington, Guam ------------------------------------------- All data archived, processed and available.

  3. MODELS NOWCASTS FORECASTS MEASUREMENTS (update @ 30 min)

  4. Modeling Waves Across the Basin Headland shadowing Refractive effects Directional wave buoy to initiate model Island shadowing Diffraction effects Amplification over shoals

  5. West Swell Northwest Swell

  6. FORECAST MODELS

  7. SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA BEACH PROCESSES STUDY (SCBPS) USACE Support since 2002 CDIP Wave Buoys LIDAR In-Situ ATV & JetSki Surveys: San Onofre and Torrey Pines

  8. Insitu Survey Instrumentation

  9. Insitu Surveys Monthly: Low tide above waterline (exposed beach). Twice/Year: Extend to 8m depth TorreyPines San Onofre

  10. Optech LIDAR Instruments (Light Detection and Ranging) Altitude: 3000 ft Swath Width: 600 ft

  11. 2 Surveys/year – Long Beach to Mexican Border Spring: eroded Late Summer: accreted

  12. Elevation Change (May – Sep 2002) San Onofre – Low seasonal Variation. Torrey Pines – High seasonal Variation.

  13. South Swell Northwest Swell San Onofre exposed Both San Onofre and Torrey Pines are exposed to North swell. Torrey Pines sheltered by Pt. La Jolla

  14. http://cdip.ucsd.edu/SCBPS - Point & Click Website

  15. SCBPS Website 2002 – Present • 8 LIDAR Surveys • Monthly Surveys (Torrey Pines & San Onofre) • NCEX ------------------------------------------------------------------ FUTURE • Continue New Surveys • Ingest/display/archive other surveys (e.g. Coastal Frontiers) • Collaboration with observing systems (SCCOOS/IOOS)

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