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“Authenticity and customer knowledge in fashion-based periodicals: Condé Nast Inc. and the development of a class-based strategy in the British magazine market between the wars”. Howard Cox and Simon Mowatt University of Worcester, UK & AUT University, NZ. Business History Conference
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“Authenticity and customer knowledge in fashion-based periodicals: Condé Nast Inc. and the development of a class-based strategy in the British magazine market between the wars” Howard Cox and Simon Mowatt University of Worcester, UK & AUT University, NZ Business History Conference St Louis, April 1-2 2011
Samuel and Isabella Beeton’s Englishwoman’s Domestic Magazine Launched May 1852 as twopenny monthly aimed at middle class women Higher priced edition in 1860 included colour plates of fashionable clothing from Paris
Alfred Harmsworth Launched first magazine Answers (1888) with active reader participation Devised a business strategy based on mass-circulation magazines: “Schemo Magnifico”
Harmsworth launched Penny woman’s weeklies Forget-me Not (1891) Home Chat (1895) Woman’s Weekly (1911)
In US Cyrus K. Curtis began charting growth of advertising from 1892 in Ladies Home Journal In 1911 Curtis set up a Commercial Research Division under Charles C. Parlin to gather data on readers Condé Nast had been appointed as Advertising Manager of Collier’s Weekly in 1897
Condé Nast develops a new business model for a class-based fashion magazine and acquires Vogue in 1909 “Figure Jim” starts Research Department ”If you had a tray with two million needles on it, and only one hundred and fifty thousand of these had gold tips …”
Nast launches UK-edition of Vogue (1916) and gradually appoints US-trained business managers such as Harry Yoxall (above) and Advertising Manager William Davenport
Study Background Locally adapted content – very English! Edna Chase on Lady Patricia Ward ‘she knows the right sort of people – young, well-bred and sport-loving.’
Vogue’s editorial team, connected to the fashion world in Paris.
“Wherever people live graciously – wherever fashion is in force, there you will find Vogue. The reason for Vogue’s international (even world-wide) leadership in its field is because it deals with the interests of smart and cultivated women in an authoritative, timely and beautiful manner. Advertisers in Vogue reach an incomparably rich market with the maximum degree of effectiveness.” Vogue promotion to advertisers, Official Handbook of the PPA, 1938-9, PPA Archive, History of Advertising Trust, Raveninghamf effectiveness.