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斜坡上非線性波浪傳動特性之研究 The Characteristics of Nonlinear Wave Transformation on Sloping Bottoms

( 甲 -91-E-FA09-7-3). 斜坡上非線性波浪傳動特性之研究 The Characteristics of Nonlinear Wave Transformation on Sloping Bottoms. Overall Prospectus for Promoting University Academic Excellence of Universities. Overall Project Duration: Month April Year 2002 – Month March Year 2005.

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斜坡上非線性波浪傳動特性之研究 The Characteristics of Nonlinear Wave Transformation on Sloping Bottoms

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  1. (甲-91-E-FA09-7-3) 斜坡上非線性波浪傳動特性之研究The Characteristics of Nonlinear Wave Transformation on Sloping Bottoms Overall Prospectus for Promoting University Academic Excellence of Universities Overall Project Duration: Month April Year 2002 – Month March Year 2005 National Cheng Kung University

  2. 1.Research Manpower • Chief Investigator • Prof. H. H. Hwung (黃煌煇) National Cheng-Kung University • Co-Investigators • Prof. L. H. Huang (黃良雄) National Taiwan University • Prof. J. F. Lee (李兆芳) National Cheng-Kung University • Prof. C. P. Tsai (蔡清標) National Chung-Hsing University • Foreign Consultants • Prof. Philip L-F. Liu Cornell University • Prof. Chan Eng Soon National University of Singapore 卓越計畫--斜坡上非線性波浪傳動特性之研究

  3. Research Staffs • Students • Mr. H. C. Hsu (許弘莒) PhD student • Mr. C. W. Zheng(鄭志維) PhD student • Mr. Y. S. Lin (林宇銜) PhD student • Ms. C. H. Lin (林均樺) M.S. student • Mr. H. C. Zeng (曾鴻棋) M.S. student • Mr. J. C. Huang(黃志誠) M.S. student • Mr. K. C. Hu (胡凱程) M.S. student • Ms. Y. X. Wu (吳怡荁) M.S. student • Ms. C. W. Lee (李嘉文) M.S. student • Mr. Y. P. Lee (李昱博) M.S. student 卓越計畫--斜坡上非線性波浪傳動特性之研究

  4. 2.Basic Information of the Project 卓越計畫--斜坡上非線性波浪傳動特性之研究

  5. 3.Overall Prospectus The dynamics of nonlinear wave interaction in the ocean are really complicated, interesting and attractive phenome-non. Especially, the wave modulation that includes the movements of chasing, composing, splitting and evolving among waves have been investigated by a lot of researchers since 1960. A number of experimental studies, although far less in comparison with those of theoretical studies in quantity, were afterward conducted by Benjamin and Feir(1967), Lake et al. (1977), Ramamonjiariso and Mollo- Christensen(1979), Melville(1982), Su et al.(1982), 卓越計畫--斜坡上非線性波浪傳動特性之研究

  6. Bonmarin and Ramamonjiarisoa(1985), Blien et al.(1986). Tulin and Waseda(1999) and Westhuis(2001). Fruitful results have been accomplished with these studies. However, most of them used shorter wave lengths, normally less than 1.0 m, or conducted under a single frequency and with un-seeded wave board motion for the facilities limits. Therefore, the mechanisms of wave modulation are not fully understood. Referring to the description above, the transformation of wave propagation, nonlinear wave interaction, wave modulation and the dynamics after wave breaking as well as the related flow field are deserved to offer more researches on this issues. 卓越計畫--斜坡上非線性波浪傳動特性之研究

  7. Thus in the three- year integrated project, the general proposal is suggested according to the following four Themes: (1) Nonlinear modulation of progressive wave (2) The transmission of wave envelopes (3) The generation of infragravity waves (4) The studies on wave breaking and related flow fields The scope of the proposed research may be broadly divided into two complementary components: one is on the enhancement of numerical methodologies in simlulating the 卓越計畫--斜坡上非線性波浪傳動特性之研究

  8. generation and transformation of wave envelopes as well as the breaking process from wave steepening to turbulent mixing, and the other is on the experimental study of the same process at a sufficiently large scale. In order to obtain the completeness with systematical results, seventeen sub- projects have been planned as following: 卓越計畫--斜坡上非線性波浪傳動特性之研究

  9. Measurements on surface elevation and interior flow field of the wave modulation in uniform water depth • Measurements on surface elevation and interior flow field of the wave envelopes in uniform water depth • Measurements on the highest wave and the related flow field after wave breaking in uniform water depth • Measurements on the characteristics of wave modulation on sloping bottoms • Measurements on the characteristics of wave envelopes on sloping bottoms • The generation of infragravity waves • Energy transmission of infragravity waves • Measurements on the interior flow field of infragravity waves • The measurements of wave breaking on sloping bottoms 卓越計畫--斜坡上非線性波浪傳動特性之研究

  10. The measurements of the related flow field after breaking on sloping bottoms • The analysis on parameters indices of wave nonlinearity • The interaction between waves and structures on sloping bottoms • Wave models for regular and irregular wave in uniform water depth • Model for regular wave on sloping bottoms • Model for irregular wave on sloping bottoms • Breaking wave model for regular wave on sloping bottoms • Breaking wave model for irregular wave on sloping bottoms 卓越計畫--斜坡上非線性波浪傳動特性之研究

  11. 卓越計畫--斜坡上非線性波浪傳動特性之研究

  12. 4.Annual Prospectus for year 2002 In order to understand the principal characteristics of nonlinear wave transformation, four sub- projects have been carried out in the first year, they are: (1) Measurements on surface elevation and interior flow field of the wave modulation in uniform water depth. (2) Measurements on surface elevation and interior flow field of the wave envelopes in uniform water depth. (3) Measurements on the highest wave and the related flow field after wave breaking in uniform water depth. (4) Wave models for regular and irregular wave in uniform water depth. 卓越計畫--斜坡上非線性波浪傳動特性之研究

  13. Wave Wave m m Wave absorber Wave absorber 5 5 generator generator 300 300 m m m m Wave Wave 5.2 Wave absorber Wave absorber generator generator 47 47 m m 238 238 m m 5. Annual Performance for year 2002 • 5.1Facilities : Super Tank Wave generator design water depth : 2.5~3.5 m optimal period : 1~13.5 sec design maximum wave height : 1 m drive system : servo-hydraulic 卓越計畫--斜坡上非線性波浪傳動特性之研究

  14. Instrumentations • Wave gage • capacitance-type, designed and manufactured by THL • Resolution:12 bits on a dynamic range of 4.5 m. • Linearity: 0.5% • distributed at 66 stations, each gage was mounted at 40 cm away from the sidewall. 卓越計畫--斜坡上非線性波浪傳動特性之研究

  15. Instrumentations • Velocimeter • acoustic Doppler velocimeter (ADV) × 1 • SonTek YSI 10-MHz ADV • three-components velocity measurement • sampling volume less than 0.2 cm3 • accuracy: 1% of measured range • velocity range: 1 mm/s to 2.5 m/s • electromagnetic (EM) current meters × 8 • ALEC ACM250-A • two- components velocity measurement • sampling volume =5 mm • accuracy: 2% of measured range • velocity range: 25 cm/s to 2.5 m/s 卓越計畫--斜坡上非線性波浪傳動特性之研究

  16. 5-2 Facilities Examination: • The key factors to well model the long time evolution of nonlinear wavetrains depend strongly on the scale of wave flume, the capability of wave generator, the instrumentation and data analysis. Therefore, to ensure the capabilities of the facilities was necessary before the elaborate tests. 卓越計畫--斜坡上非線性波浪傳動特性之研究

  17. Wave GeneratorRegular wave condition Case: Reg19F , T=1.6 sec 卓越計畫--斜坡上非線性波浪傳動特性之研究

  18. Experimental Conditions of Regular Wave Depth of water d = 2.5 m , 3.5 m Period T = 1.1 ~3.0 sec Wave steepness ka0 = 0.05~0.40

  19. Regular wave Case:Reg19F 卓越計畫--斜坡上非線性波浪傳動特性之研究

  20. Experimental Conditions of Seeded Waves System 卓越計畫--斜坡上非線性波浪傳動特性之研究

  21. Experimental Conditions of Seeded Waves System Depth of water =3.5 m Period =1.3 , 1.6 , 2.0 sec Wave steepness ka= 0.08~0.23 Side band amplitude0.05 , 0.1 , 0.3 Side band frequency parameter0.1~2.2

  22. Seeded Waves System Case:T63F 卓越計畫--斜坡上非線性波浪傳動特性之研究

  23. Experimental Conditions of Two Waves System 卓越計畫--斜坡上非線性波浪傳動特性之研究

  24. Experimental Conditions ofTwo Waves System Depth of water d = 3.5 m Period T = 1.4, 1.6, 2.0 sec dt = 0.1~0.4 sec Wave steepness H = 0.05~0.30 m Ka0 = 0.10~0.25

  25. Two Waves System Case:B1163F 卓越計畫--斜坡上非線性波浪傳動特性之研究

  26. Experimental Conditions of Wave Packet Depth of water d =3.5 m Period T =1.2, 1.3, 1.6 sec Wave amplitude a =0.045~0.1 m 卓越計畫--斜坡上非線性波浪傳動特性之研究

  27. Wave Packet Case:P07F1 卓越計畫--斜坡上非線性波浪傳動特性之研究

  28. 5-3 Results (ka0=0.1207) 卓越計畫--斜坡上非線性波浪傳動特性之研究

  29. (a) t=30 sec (b) t=130 sec (c) t=300 sec (d) t=2000 sec Contour of wave amplitude in log scale for wave ka0=0.2038 卓越計畫--斜坡上非線性波浪傳動特性之研究

  30. 卓越計畫--斜坡上非線性波浪傳動特性之研究

  31. 卓越計畫--斜坡上非線性波浪傳動特性之研究

  32. 卓越計畫--斜坡上非線性波浪傳動特性之研究

  33. ka0=0.1386 卓越計畫--斜坡上非線性波浪傳動特性之研究

  34. ka0=0.118 卓越計畫--斜坡上非線性波浪傳動特性之研究

  35. ka0=0.1538 卓越計畫--斜坡上非線性波浪傳動特性之研究

  36. Experimental condition(reg04) • Wave height : 0.1552+/- 0.0018 m • Wave period : 1.597 +/- 0.0056 sec • Still water depth : 3.5 m • Wave steepness : ka=0.1207 (3rd order) • Relative depth : d/L=0.8667 卓越計畫--斜坡上非線性波浪傳動特性之研究

  37. 卓越計畫--斜坡上非線性波浪傳動特性之研究

  38. 卓越計畫--斜坡上非線性波浪傳動特性之研究

  39. Experimental condition(reg28) • Wave height : 0.179+/- 0.003 m (1.67%) • Wave period : 1.597 +/- 0.0038 sec (0.24%) • Still water depth : 3.5 m • Wave steepness : ka=0.1386 (3rd order) • Relative depth : d/L=0.86 卓越計畫--斜坡上非線性波浪傳動特性之研究

  40. 卓越計畫--斜坡上非線性波浪傳動特性之研究

  41. 卓越計畫--斜坡上非線性波浪傳動特性之研究

  42. 卓越計畫--斜坡上非線性波浪傳動特性之研究

  43. Ka=0.1118 卓越計畫--斜坡上非線性波浪傳動特性之研究

  44. Ka=0.1258 卓越計畫--斜坡上非線性波浪傳動特性之研究

  45. Ka=0.1651 卓越計畫--斜坡上非線性波浪傳動特性之研究

  46. Ka=0.2515 卓越計畫--斜坡上非線性波浪傳動特性之研究

  47. 0.3 h 0.0 -0.3 z/h=-0.27 u 0.4 0.2 z/h=-0.43 0.0 -0.2 -0.4 z/h=-0.64 100.0 120.0 140.0 160.0 180.0 time (sec) velocity record compared with the linear random wave theoryka0=0.15, f0=0.5, b±/a0=0.3 Yellow –measured White – computed 卓越計畫--斜坡上非線性波浪傳動特性之研究

  48. 1-D Bicromatic Sine Waves Over Uniform Water Depth(B39) • Wave Conditions: (Water Depth = 3.5m) • Wave Height = 0.15m (H_in/2H = 0.02143) , • Wave Period = 1.80 sec , Wavelength = 5.043m (kh = 4.3487, ka = 0.09318) • Wave Period = 2.20 sec , Wavelength = 7.049m (kh = 2.9268, ka = 0.06271) 卓越計畫--斜坡上非線性波浪傳動特性之研究

  49. 1-D Bicromatic Sine Waves Over Uniform Water Depth(B39) - 2-Layer Model 卓越計畫--斜坡上非線性波浪傳動特性之研究

  50. 1-D Bicromatic Sine Waves Over Uniform Water Depth(B39) - 3-Layer Model 卓越計畫--斜坡上非線性波浪傳動特性之研究

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