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Waves

Waves. Classifying Waves. Waves are classified according to type of force that disturbs the water to make the wave. Wind Waves. Wave progresses as the water moves in a circular path. Orbital Motion of Wind Waves. Water moves in orbits Orbits get smaller the deeper you go.

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Waves

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  1. Waves

  2. Classifying Waves Waves are classified according to type of force that disturbs the water to make the wave

  3. Wind Waves • Wave progresses as the water moves in a circular path

  4. Orbital Motion of Wind Waves • Water moves in orbits • Orbits get smaller the deeper you go. • At a depth equal to ½ the wavelength, there is no more water motion or the wave base.

  5. Deep Water vs. Shallow Water Waves • Deep-water wave– when a wave is traveling in water deeper than ½ its wavelength. • Speed is controlled by it’s wavelength. Longer waves are faster. • Shallow-water wave- When a wave is traveling in water shallower than ½ its wavelength. • Speed is controlled by water depth • Friction with the bottom slows down the wave and flattens the orbit.

  6. Variables Controlling Wind-Wave Energy • Wind velocity – wind must be moving faster than the wave for energy transfer to continue. • Wind duration – Winds that blow for a short time will not generate large waves • Fetch – Uninterrupted distance over which wind blows without changing direction. Longer fetch = larger waves.

  7. Variables Controlling Wind-Wave Energy

  8. Internal Waves • Waves that occur at the boundaries of water layers of different densities.

  9. Surf and Breaking Waves • In deep water waves break when their height to wavelength ratio exceeds one to seven = H:L ratio exceeds 1:7

  10. Very destructive • Wave does not break, but rolls onto beach

  11. Wave curls and forms a tunnel • Expert surfers love these (totally tubular) or (pipe dreams)

  12. Gentlest of wave interactions • Easiest to learn to surf on

  13. Surf • Plunging Breakers– characterized by a curl as the top of the wave pitches through the air before splashing into the bottom…Beaches with a steep incline • Spilling Breakers – characterized by the top of the wave tumbling and sliding down the front of the wave as it decelerates slowly.—Beaches with a gentle slope • Surging Breakers – on very steep beaches that are almost like walls

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