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Prepared By : Prepared By : Mazadul Hasan sheshir ID: 2010000400008 13th Batch (session 2009-2013) Department : Wet Processing Technology Email: mazadulhasan@yahoo.com Blog : www. Textilelab.blogspot.com (visit) Southeast University Department Of Textile Engineering I/A 251,252 Tejgaon Dhaka Bangladesh ©right
Introduction With the change of time, human choice, demand, garment design and fashion is changing very quickly. To meet the demand of users, garment manufacturers are adapting new technology and processes. Garment wash is a new technology, which is used to modify the outlook, appearance, comfort ability and fashion of the garments is called garments washing. Garment washing is normally processed after stitching. As per fashion trend and customer demand buyers ask for garment washing though it increases the cost of the garment. For the washing they mention exactly what types of washing they need for the order. For example, Tom Tailor buyer asked for washes like – Vintage wash, Cloud wash, softener wash or Acid wash. Each wash has different types of appearance on the fabric surfaces. Wash types mainly depends on the product types. For denim product heavy enzyme is required where for knitted Tee light softener wash may be okay. 4
Garment Washing In line with ever changing human behaviors and longing to be unique in outlook, mankind dress themselves in fashionable as well as comfortable garments. To be or get unique in outlook garment washing is very convenient way. This is a wing of garment wet processing technology. This is the textile technology by which a unique appearance along the seam, size, comfort ability & fashion etc. properties are changed of a solid or multi colored or printed garment. Fabric of the garment may be dyed with reactive dye, direct dye, sulpher dye, acid dye, basic dye, pigment and even metal complex dye and printed with pigment, direct dye, reactive dye etc. 5
Types of Garment Washing: 1. Wet process/Chemical process Normal wash/ garment wash/rinse wash Pigment wash Caustic wash Enzyme wash Stone wash Stone enzyme wash Tinting (Tie) & Over Dyeing(Dip Dyeing) Super white wash Bleach wash Acid wash Silicon wash Soft wash 2. Dry process/Mechanical process Sand blasting Hands scraping Over all wrinkles Permanent wrinkle Broken and tagging Grinding and destroy PP spray and PP sponging etc. 7
Objects of Garments Washing These are the main objects for garments washing 1.To develop softness in garment: Size materials in fabric are removed by washing & there is also advantage to add softener. Drape ability also increased. 2.To introduce unique appearance: washing that introduces fading effects along with the seam on the garments by washing out dyes or pigments in the garments. 3.To create new fashion: Washing process of garments bring different out looks (faded, color tinted, old look etc.) of garment that is used for creating new fashion. 4.Special type of finishes are also possible such as wrinkle, wrinkle free, flame retardant, water proof breathable, soil retardant finish etc. 5.To satisfy the customer: As shrinkage occurs so customer can wear it just after purchasing/buying. 8
Flow Chart of Washing: Garments from store house ↓ Count ↓ Quality check ↓ Batch ↓ Washing ↓ Hydro extractor ↓ Drying ↓ Quality check ↓ Packing ↓ Delivery 9
Common procedure of garments washing: 1. Garments can be inverted to minimize unwanted abrasion streaks (especially useful when preset creases are present). 2. Load machine with garments. 3. Desize with alpha amylase enzyme and detergent. 4. Drain. 5. Rinse. 6. Fill machine with water and heat to 60 C. The liquor ratio can range from 10:1 to 20:1. ◦ A number of synthetic detergents can be used. Also, alkaline products such as soda ash or caustic soda can be added in amounts ranging from 0.5 to 2.0 grams/liter. Some chemical suppliers offer special products that accelerate the wash down process, dependent upon the particular dyestuff used. 7. Wash/tumble action for 20-60 minutes, depending upon desired effect. 8. Drain and rinse. 9. Apply softener. 10. Tumble dry. 11. Invert garments, if previously turned. 12. Press, if required. 10
Advantages of Garments Washing 1. Starch or size materials, which are applied during fabric production especially in case of woven fabric are removed by wash as a result the garment become soft and hence the drape ability and comfort ability increased significantly. 2. Softness could be increased by addition of softeners by doing soft finish or applying the softener. 3. Dirt’s, impurities, germs etc. obviously will be added in the garment during its manufacturing are removed due to washing because a variety of chemicals are used such as detergent, bleaching agents etc. 4. Due to washing, maximum shrinkage occurs; hence there is the zero possibility of further shrinkage. As a result there is no size or fitting problem in washed garments. 11
Advantages of Garments Washing 1. Faded effect and a variety of stylish effects produced by different washing techniques. Nowadays these faded and stylish effects are accepted as a new fashion for fashion world. 2. Similar out look and effect could be produced by different washing techniques or by different process. As a result there is a great scope of implementation of brilliances of technicians. Every machine of a garment washing factory can be used for multipurpose for this reason total project cost is comparatively lower where as washing add a handsome value to the garments. 12
Unavailable Changes/Limitation of Garments washing Garments Size Change: This change takes place due to shrinkage properties of the fabric. The amount of shrinkage properties of fabric determines the amount of size changing of the garments. Size materials and finishing's partly removed: Different types of washing are done with different types of chemicals and process, which are responsible for the removal of size materials and finishing's from the fabric. Color is partly removed: Unfixed dyes may remain on the garment after dyeing. This un-fixed dye will be subsequently removed due to washing. Thus color is partly removed. 13
Types of Garment washing There Are Different Types of Garments washing in our country • Normal wash/Garment wash/Rinse wash /Soft wash, • Pigment wash, • Silicon wash, • Bleach wash, • Caustic wash, • Acid wash, • Enzyme wash, • Stone wash, • Enzyme wash with stone, • Supper white wash, • Wash & over dyeing, • Wash & Tinting, • Over all wrinkles, • Permanent wrinkle/Resin Finish. • etc. 14
Some Washing Chemical List 1. Desizing Agent : DesizingHts, D-Peast 2. Anti Back Stain Agent : Antistain – Lp-30 3. Fastness Improvers For Dyeing : Albafix® 4. Levelling Agents For Dyeing : Albatex® 5. Fastness Improvers For Dyeing : Albafix® 6. Enzyme : G Enzyme S89, G Enzyme – Sl, InnozymeNpe S89 7. Salt : G/Salt. 8. Alkali : Naso4 9. Ph Control : Using Buffer & Acid 10. Bleaching Agent : Sodium Hypochlorite Naocl; 15% Cl2 Available 11. Calcium Hypochlorite. 12. Neutralizing Agent : Hydro Peroxide, Bisulphate OrThiosulphate. 13. Softener : Innosoft 1070 15
Washing Chemicals: • Enzyme • Micro Emulsion Silicon • Detergent • Salt (sodium chloride) • Acetic Acid • Buffer • Antistatic • Hydrogen peroxide • Bleaching powder • Stabilizer • Sodium hyposulfite • Fixing agent • Caustic Soda • Catanizer • Soda Ash • Optical Brightener • Sodium Bicarbonate • Resin • Potassium permanganate • Sodium Metabisulphite • Cationic / nonionic Flax softener • Desizing agent 16
MACHINES USED IN WASHING PLANT BASIC MACHINERIES OF A WASHING PLANT • Garments washing m/c for sample, • Garments washing m/c for bulk, • Hydro extractor, • Tumble Dryer: i) Gas dryer, ii) Steam dryer. • Boiler • Compressor 17
Different kinds of washing & Garments dyeing price list Please see below the our price list (Wash Type) • Normal Garments wash per dozon = 0.6$ • Trumble/Normal fabric wash per kg = 10 taka • Stone wash per dozon = 1.5$ • Stone Enzyme wash per dozon = 2.0$ • Acid wash per dozon = 5.0$ • Sand wash per dozon = 4.0$ • Enzyme wash per dozon = 1.0$ 21
BleachWash • Garments made from indigo, vat, reactive, direct etc dyed fabric can be bleach washed. • It is a decolorization process by oxidation action. • Color can be removed uniformly from the garment and removal of color done as per requirement. In general there are three categories such as light bleach (where maximum color is removed), medium bleach and bleach. • All types of garment can be washed. Such as: woven knit garments. • In case of woven fabric a pretreatment (Desizing) process is required. • Dust, dirt, oil spot, impurities etc. are removed that may come from during process i.e. cutting, stitching and the back process. • Significant fading effect can be achieved. But we can achieve more wash effect by increasing processing time and decreasing the liquor ratio. • To improve the color fastness & rubbing fastness. • To increase the hairiness on garments this increases its old-look appearance. • Maximum weight losses occur in case of light bleach. 22
BleachWash Process : This washing process follows the following steps. • Step 01 or Desizing • Step 02 or Bleaching • Step 03 (Neutralization of Chlorine) • Step 04 or Neutralization • Step 05 or Softening • Step 06 or Drying 23
BleachWash Suppose a lot size 100kg of twill trouser. Step 01 or Desizing: 1. Load the garment in washing m/c 2. Add water at 1:5 liquor ratio 3. Start m/c running 4. Add amylase enzyme 1-3% 5. Add detergent/antistain to the liquor;1% i.e. 1kg 6. Supply steam to raise temp. 7. Continue the process 8. Drop the liquor 9. Hot wash with water Step 02 or bleaching: 1. Add water in 1:5 liquor ratio 2. Start m/c running 3. Add soda to liquor 2% 4. Add caustic to liquor 2% 5. Add bleaching powder (K.C.I.) 10 gm/lt i.e. 5 gm 6. Rinse thoroughly. 100kg garment 500lt Speed 15/12 rpm 1-3kg 60 c 20 min temp 40-50c for 5 min. 500lt Speed 12-15 rpm i.e. 2kg i.e. 2kg 24
BleachWash Step 03 (Neutralization of Chlorine): • Add water with 1:5 liquor ratio • Start m/c running with moderate speed • Add 35% of H2O2 0.5-1.0% Or Add bisulphate 1-2% • Continue the process at Room temp. • Drop the liquor & a hot wash at 40-60 c • Add water in 1: 5 Liquor ratio • Start machine running • Add sodium hyposulphite 3 gm/ltr • Supply steam to raise temp • Continue the process • Drop the liquor, • Rinse thoroughly. =500Lt =12-15 rpm = 500gm-1kg =1kg-2kg =5 min =5 min = 500 Lt = speed 12-15 rpm = 1500gm. As required (40c) 10-20 min 25
BleachWash Step 04 or Neutralization: 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. Step 05 or Softening: 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. Step 06 or Drying: 1. Hydroextract the garments. 2. Dry in the tumble dryer. Incase of knit garments desizing step is not required but a wash for 5 minutes at room temperature is necessary. Add water in 1: 5 Liquor ratio Start machine running Add acetic acid to the liquor 1-2ml/lt = 0.5-1Lt Continue the process Drop the liquor = 500 Lt = speed 12-15 rpm = 5 min Add water in 1:5 liquor ratio Start m/c running Add softener to the liquor 0.1 - 0.5% Supply steam to raise the temp. Continue the process Drop the liquor & unload the garments = 500 Lt speed 12-15 rpm = 100- 500gm = As required 40 to 60 c = 5 min 26
Stone Wash Stone wash is done on garments made from denim & jeans fabric. Sometimes twill fabric garments are also subjected for stone wash. Fading effect is produced in the garments in irregular pattern. Fading effect is more pronounced across the seam line and the multiple ply position. Stone wash mainly followed by a decolouration process. Garments become comfortable during use. 27
Stone Wash Process : This washing process follows the following steps: • Step 01 or Desizing • Step 02 or Stone Wash followed by Bleach wash • Step 03 (Neutralization of Chlorine) • Step 04 or Neutralization • Step 05 or Softening • Step 06 or Drying 28
Stone Wash Process: It follows the bellow mentioned steps. Suppose 100kg of garments in a lot size. Step 01 or Desizing 1. Load the garment in washing m/c 2. Add water at 1:5 liquor ratio 3. Start m/c running 4. Add amylase enzyme 1-3% 5. Add detergent/antistain to the liquor; 1% i.e. 1kg 6. Supply steam to raise temp. 7. Continue the process 8. Drop the liquor 9. Hot wash with water Step 02 (Stone Wash): 1. Load the m/c with water at 1:5 liquor ratio = 500Lt water 2. Add pumic stone ½ of volume of garments volume or as required = 30kg to 50 kg 3. Start m/c running with moderate speed 4. Add bleaching powder to the liquor 2-4% 5. Add soda ash to the liquor 6-8% 6. Continue the process 7. Drop the liquor & a hot wash at 40 to 50c = 5min 100kg garment 500lt Speed 15/12 rpm 1-3kg 60 c 20 min temp 40-50c for 5 min. =12-15 rpm =2-4kg = 6-8 kg =20-40 min 30
Stone Wash Step 03 (Neutralization of Chlorine): 1. Add water with 1:5 liquor ratio = 500 Lt 2. Start m/c running with moderate speed = 12-15 rpm 3. Add 35% of H2O2 0.5-1.0% Or Add bisulphate 1-2% 4. Continue the process at Room temp. = 5 min 5. Drop the liquor & a hot wash at 40-60 c = 5 min Note: H2O2 Neutralization gives brighter tone then the bisulphate. = 500gm-1k =1kg-2kg Step 04: (Neutralization) 1. Add water with 1:5 liquor ratio = 500 Lt 2. Start m/c running with moderate speed = 12-15 rpm 3. Add acetic acid 1-2% 4. Continue the process at Room temp to 60c. = 5-8 min 5. Drop the liquor = 1Lt-2Lt 31
Stone Wash Step 05 or Softening: 1. Add water in 1:5 liquor ratio 2. Start m/c running 3. Add softener to the liquor 0.1 - 0.5% 4. Supply steam to raise the temp 5. Continue the process 6. Drop the liquor & unload the garments 500 Lt speed 12-15 rpm 100- 500gm As required 40 to 60 c 5 min Step 06: 1. Hydroextract the garments. 2. Dry in the tumble dryer. Note: Stone wash sometimes done without bleaching; actually it depends upon the requirement 32
Acid Wash • Garments made from heavy jeans & denim fabrics course canvas, sweater & thick twill etc. are washed by acid wash technique. • Irregular pattern fading effect is produced in the garments. But the effects more pronounce than stone wash. • This is very dirty process due to widely use of pumic stone. 33
Stone Wash Process: It follows the following steps. Step 01 or Desizing: Load the garment in washing m/c 100kg garment 1. Add water at 1:5 liquor ratio 2. Start m/c running 3. Add amylase enzyme 1-3% 4. Add detergent/antistain to the liquor;1% i.e. 1kg 5. Supply steam to raise temp. 6. Continue the process 7. Drop the liquor 8. Hot wash with water Step 02: 1. Unload the garments from m/c 2. Hydro extract the garments 3. Dry it partially by running tumble dryer for 5 to 10 mins. 4. Unload the garments & keep in open air for conditioning (1/2 an hour) 500lt Speed 15/12 rpm 1-3kg 60 c 20 min temp 40-50c for 5 min. 34
Stone Wash Step 03: 1. Take stone of same volume of the volume of garments. 2. Soak the stone with the following chemical solution for 2-3 min Water Potassium permanganate Phosphoric Acid Here the porous of stone will, pick up the solution 3. Soaked stones are dried in the open air for 60-90 min Step 04: 1. Load the garments treated in step 01 & step 02 in a dry m/c. lot size should be 20 to 30kg. 2. Load treated stone in step 03 volume of the garments volume. 3. Run the m/c for 5 to 7 min. Due to rotation of inner cylinder the soaked stones will hit the garments surfaces, thus the chemicals in the stone will destroy the color of fabric where the stone will hit. Multi layer fabric area like collar, cuff, and pocket, pocket side seam etc area will brushed more than the single layer areas, hence more fading effect will be produce in those areas result new color effect in the garments. 4. Unload the garments & separate the stone from the batch. 100 Lt 1kg (1gm/Lt) 200-300gm (0.2-0.3gm/lt) 35
Stone Wash Step 05: It is a neutralizing process. KMnO4 & H3PO4 reacts & gives Oxygen, which oxidized the color. Hence a by-product MnO2 is also produced which should be neutralized. 6KMnO + 4H3PO4 =2K3PO4+ Mn3(PO4)2+ 6H2O+ 3MnO2+2O2 This MnO2 is solubilized by sodium Metabisulfite (Na2S2O5) Na2S2O5 + H2O = 2NaHSO3 NaHSO3+MnO2=MnSO4+NaOH 1. Load the garments to the m/c 2. Add water with 1: 5 liquor ratio 500Lt 3. Run m/c with moderate speed 12-15 rpm 4. Add Sodium meta-bisulfite 1-2 g/Lt 500gm-1kg 5. Continue the process 5-10 min 6. Drain the liquor 7. Hot wash 40-50c 5 min 36
Stone Wash Step 06 or Neutralization: 1. Add water in 1: 5 Liquor ratio 2. Start machine running 3. Add acetic acid to the liquor 1-2ml/lt 4. Continue the process 5. Drop the liquor 500 Lt speed 12-15 rpm 0.5-1Lt 5 min Step 07 or Softening: 1. Add water in 1:5 liquor ratio 2. Start m/c running 3. Add softener to the liquor 0.1 - 0.5% 4. Supply steam to raise the temp 5. Continue the process 6. Drop the liquor & unload the garments Step 08: 1. Hydroextract the garments. 2. Dry in the tumble dryer. 500 Lt speed 12-15 rpm 100- 500gm As required 40 to 60 c 5 min 37
Enzyme wash • Enzyme wash is done on garments made from denim & jeans fabric, twill fabric garments. Sometimes knit items are also subjected for Enzyme wash • Garments made from indigo, vat, direct etc dyed fabric can be enzyme washed. Reactive dyed garments can be washed also but wash effect not pronounced as mentioned earlier. • It produces frosty/ice effect on garment and seam abrasion across the seam. • Enzyme works chemically not mechanically for this reason it provide less damage/wastage then stone wash. • It improves improve the color fastness & rubbing fastness. • Enzyme improves the anti-pilling properties and decrease the hairiness hence it gives a very smooth surface of the garments. 38
Enzyme wash Process: It follows the bellow mentioned steps. Suppose 100kg of garments in a lot size. Step 01 or Desizing 1. Load the garment in washing m/c 100kg garment 2. Add water at 1:5 liquor ratio 3. Start m/c running 4. Add amylase enzyme 1-3% 5. Add detergent/antistain to the liquor;1% i.e. 1kg 6. Supply steam to raise temp. 7. Continue the process 8. Drop the liquor 9. Hot wash with water 500lt Speed 15/12 rpm 1-3kg 60 c 20 min temp 40-50c for 5 min. 39
Enzyme wash Step 02 Enzyme 1. Add water at 1:5 liquor ratio 2. Start m/c running 3. Supply steam to raise temp. 4. Add acetic acid 1-3% 5. Add anti back staining 6. Add Acid Enzyme As required 1-3% i.e. 100-300gm 7. Continue the process depending up on the effect 8. Drop the liquor 9. Hot wash with water temp 80-90c run 1-2 min. (for killing the enzyme). 10. Drain the bath 11. Rinse thoroughly 500lt Speed 15/12 rpm As required 55-60 C 1-3kg 1% i.e. 1kg 30-50 min 40
Enzyme wash Step 03 or Softening: 1. Add water in 1:5 liquor ratio 2. Start m/c running 3. Add softener to the liquor 0.1 - 0.5% = 100- 500gm 4. Supply steam to raise the temp = As required 40 to 60 c 5. Continue the process 6. Drop the liquor & unload the garments = 500 Lt = speed 12-15 rpm = 5 min Step 04: 1. Hydroextract the garments. 2. Dry in the tumble dryer. Note: Enzyme wash usually followed by bleaching; and it depends upon the requirements of lightening the garments. 41
Enzyme wash with stone • Enzyme wash with stone is done on garments made from denim & jeans fabric, twill fabric garments. Sometimes knit items are also subjected for Enzyme wash with stone Garments made from indigo, vat, direct etc dyed fabric can be Enzyme washed with stone. Reactive dyed garments can be washed also but wash effect not pronounced as mentioned earlier. It produces more frosty/ice effect on garment and seam abrasion across the seam than the enzyme wash. Enzyme works chemically and stone works mechanically for this reason it provide effect more quickly then enzyme wash. It improves improve the color fastness & rubbing fastness. Enzyme improves the anti-pilling properties and decrease the hairiness where as stone mechanically increase hairiness. On the other hand this process shortens the time. For this reason enzyme and stone amount should be used very carefully. • • • • • 42
Enzyme wash with stone Process: It follows the bellow mentioned steps. Suppose 100kg of garments in a lot size. Step 01 or Desizing 1. Load the garment in washing m/c 100kg garment 2. Add water at 1:5 liquor ratio 3. Start m/c running 4. Add amylase enzyme 1-3% 5. Add detergent/antistain to the liquor; 1% i.e. 1kg 6. Supply steam to raise temp. 7. Continue the process 8. Drop the liquor 9. Hot wash with water 500lt Speed 15/12 rpm 1-3kg 60 c 20 min temp 40-50c for 5 min. 43
Enzyme wash with stone Step 02 Enzyme with stone 1. Add water at 1:5 liquor ratio 2. Start m/c running 3. Supply steam to raise temp. 4. Add acetic acid 1-3% 5. Add anti back staining 6. Add Acid Enzyme As required 1-3% i.e. 7. Add pumic stone ½ of volume of garments volume or as required = 30kg to 50 kg 8. Continue the process depending up on the effect 9. Drop the liquor 10. Hot wash with water (for killing the enzyme) temp 80-90c run 1-2 min. 11. Drain the bath 12. Rinse thoroughly 500lt Speed 15/12 rpm As required 55-60 C 1-3kg 1% i.e. 1kg 100-300gm 30-50 min 44
Enzyme wash with stone Step 03 or Softening: 1. Add water in 1:5 liquor ratio 2. Start m/c running 3. Add softener to the liquor 0.1 - 0.5%100- 500gm 4. Supply steam to raise the temp 5. Continue the process 6. Drop the liquor & unload the garments 500 Lt speed 12-15 rpm As required 40 to 60 c 5-15 min Step 04: 1. Hydroextract the garments. 2. Dry in the tumble dryer. Note: Enzyme wash usually done with bleaching; and it depends upon the requirements of lightening the garments. 45
Super White Wash • • Cotton garments made from grey fabric are used for super white wash. To obtain maximum whiteness effect on garments super white wash is performed. Process: This process follow the below steps. Suppose a lot of 100 kg garments is produced. Step 01 or Desizing 1. Load the garment in washing m/c 100kg garment 2. Add water at 1:5 liquor ratio 3. Start m/c running 4. Add amylase enzyme 1-3% 5. Add detergent/antistain to the liquor;1% i.e. 1kg 6. Supply steam to raise temp. 7. Continue the process 8. Drop the liquor 9. Hot wash with water 500lt Speed 15/12 rpm 1-3kg 60 c 20 min temp 40-50c for 5 min. 46
Super White Wash Step 02 : 1. Add water in 1:5 liquor ratio 2. Start m/c running with moderate speed 12-15 rpm 3. Add detergent as 2% 4. Caustic soda as 10% 5. H2O2 as 12% 6. Stabilizer as 5% 7. Supply temp to raise temp 8. Continue the process 9. Drop the liquor. 500 Lt water 2 kg 10 kg 12 Lt 5 Lt 95 c 75 min 47
Super White Wash Step 03 : (Refining Wash) 1. Add water in 1:5 liquor ratio 2. Start m/c with moderate speed 3. Add detergent as 2% 4. Caustic soda as 4% 5. H2O2 as 10% 6. Stabilizer as 4% 7. Raise temp by steam supply 8. Continue the process 9. Drop the liquor 10. Hot wash 50 C for 5 min. 500 Lt 12-15 rpm 2 kg 4 kg 10 Lt 4 Lt 95 C 75 min 48
Super White Wash Step 04: Neutral Wash 1. Add water in 1:5 liquor ratio 2. Start m/c with moderate speed 12-15 rpm 3. Add A. acid as 1% 4. Continue the process at R.T to 50 C 5. Drop the liquor. 500 Lt 1 Lt 5 min Step 05: Brightening Treatment 1. Add water in 1:5 liquor ratio 2. Add FWA/FBA as required (considering 1%)1 kg 3. Supply steam to raise the temp 80 C 4. Continue the process 5. Drop the liquor. 500 Lt water 10 min 49
Super White Wash Step 05: Softening 1. Add water in 1:5 liquor ratio 2. Start m/c running 3. Add softener to the liquor 0.1 - 0.5% = 100- 500gm 4. Supply steam to raise the temp = As required 40 to 60 c 5. Continue the process 6. Drop the liquor & unload the garments = 500 Lt = speed 12-15 rpm = 5-15 min Step 06: 1. Hydroextract the garments. 2. Dry in the tumble dryer. Note: white garments should be soften with non-ionic softener and dried in the steam dryer. Otherwise a reddish tone will appear. 50