Handbook of garments manufacturing technology

1. Handbook of Gar ment s Manuf ac t ur ing Tec hnol og y - II Prepared By: Md. Kamrul Hasan MBA (Malaysia) B.Sc. in Textile Engineering Batch: 1 5th Southeast University Dhaka, Bangladesh

2. Southeast U niv ersity D epartment of T ex tile E ngineering Special Thanks to - Adnan Zaber Mahmud Lecturer, Department of Textile Engineering Southeast University And Md. Hanif Hossain 15th Batch (SEU) Prepared By: Md. Kamrul Hasan MBA (Malaysia) B.Sc. in Textile Engineering Major: Garments Manufacturing Technology Batch: 15th (Session: 2010 to 2014) Southeast University Dhaka, Bangladesh Email: hasanbd015@gmail.com It is a collection of class lectures of our respectable teacher Adnan Zaber Mahmud and collection from other sources.

3. Published on 26 March, 2015 1st Edition: 1st October, 2017 Dedicated to my respectable & beloved Parents

4. I NDEX SL No Topics Page No 01 02 03 04 05 06 07 08 General Discussion on Garments Buying House Name of some important buyer of Bangladesh How buyers place an order? Some major garments manufacturer countries GSP Steps of Garments Export Procedure Line Balancing, In-line Inspection, On-line Inspection, Tech. Pack, BOM Sheet, ICD Lead Time, Stock Lot, FOB, C & F ,CIF, CM, CMT What are Quality, Quality Control, Quality Assurance, Quality Policy, Quality Management, Quality System, Quality Plan, Inspection & Testing ? Garments L/C, Delivery & Payment Process Chart Different types of Agents in Garments Sector Documents required for Export Documents required for Import Different types of Payment methods in Garments Trade Documents required for Payment Garments common item export from Bangladesh Garments Accessories/Trims What are Motif & Applique? Stitch and Seam Basting(40), Saddle stitch(41), Hemming(43), Neatening(48) 40,41,43,48 Sewing Threads Thread Count and Ticket Number Garment Defects Different types of sewing faults & their definitions Application of Sewing Machines in Garments Manufacturing Some Garments Industrial Sewing Machine Figure Parts of the Sewing Machine and Uses Construction of a sewing needle 01 02 02 03 03 04 06 1 2 09 1 0 1 3 1 4 1 5 1 6 1 8 1 9 20 21 22 28 38 39 1 1 1 2 1 3 1 4 1 5 1 6 1 7 1 8 1 9 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 49 53 54 57 58 60 63 67

5. 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 Pressing Packing into Carton Acceptable Quality Level (AQL) Fabric (Which are used in Garments) What are Check & Plaid fabric, Feeder & Engineering Stripe Machine Lay-out of Garment Sewing Flow Chart of T-Shirt Manufacturing Sewing Flow Chart of Polo-Shirt Manufacturing Different Types of Care Instructions for Garments Some Important Terms (Penton Number, DTM, Lap dip, Yarn dip, Strike off, Art work, Hand Loom, Swatch, Swatch card, Trim card) Compliance & ISO About BEPZA & EPZ Common Abbreviations for Textiles & Garments Technology Common Shipping Terms Abbreviations for International Trade 69 70 71 74 76 78 80 81 83 88 40 41 42 43 89 91 93 96

6. General Discussion on Garments Some factors related to buying side: Customer: Those who buy a product & use the product. Wholesaler: Those who sell product to the retailers and they buy in large quantity from suppliers. Retailer: Those who sell product to the customer through outlets and they buy from wholesalers/buyers. Importer: Those who buy product from overseas countries and sell to wholesaler/retailer/customer. Buyer: Those who buy product from seller/suppliers and sell further to another buyer or customer. Some factors related to selling side: Seller: Those who sell product to the buyers. They may/may not manufacture the product. Supplier: They are a kind of seller. Manufacturer: Those who manufacture the product. Exporter: Those who sell product to the buyers in the overseas countries. Trader: Those who mediates between buyer and manufacturer. Trader is two types such as local and foreign. Prepared by: Hasan (1 5th –Batch; SEU) | Email: hasanbd01 5@gmail.com 1

7. Buying House: 1.Buyer liaison office (Buyer will directly open a branch). 2.Traders are of two types- i). Foreign Trader & ii). Local Trade *** 80% Trader (Baridhara, Uttara) and 20% Liaison office (Gulsion, Dhaka). List of Traders: Multinational trader: 1. Li & Fung (Hongkong) 2. Comptextile (Shrilanka) 3. Texebo 4. Asmara (India) 5. Mondial (Europe) 6. Lin mark (Europe) 7. ZXY Apparel Buying Solution (Europe) 8. Synergies Name of some important buyer of Bangladesh: Generally buyers of USA, Europe, Japan, Australia, India, and Canada are the main buyers of garments and Textile product of Bangladesh. Local Trader: 1. Centrotex (BD) 2. Team sourcing (Uttara; BD) 3. Norwest (BD) Name of some important buyers of these countries are given below- USA buyer 1.Wal-mart 2.Levi’s 3.Academy 4.Banana 5.Gap 6.PVH (Phillips Von Heuson) 7.Peri Ellis 8.Jcpenny 9.Old Navy 10.American Eagle 11.Target Europe buyer Others buyer Japanese buyer: 1.Uniqlo Australian buyer: 1.Kmart Indian buyer: 1.Black Berry 2.Mahendra 3.ITC 4.Ramond Canadian buyer: 1.Hudson Bay 2.Boss Hugo 3.Hugger Canada 1.Zara 2.H & M 3.M & S (Marks & Spencer) 4.C & A 5.Nike 6.Adidas 7.Armani 8.Next 9.Mango 10.Tesco 11.Tema 12.NKD 13.Jd Williams 14.Adler 15.European Eagle 16.Jack & Jones 17.Carrefour 18.Sains Burry 19.Abercrombie & Fitch Prepared by: Hasan (1 5th –Batch; SEU) | Email: hasanbd01 5@gmail.com 2

8. Question: How buyers place an order? Which are used according to confirmation of order is given by below- Seasons of Export in USA: Spring Summer  Fall Seasons of Export in Europe: a) i)Spring ii)Summer January to Jun b) i)Autumn ii)Winter July to December Some major garments manufacturer countries: 1.China 2.Bangladesh 3.India 4.Shrilanka 5.Vietnam 6.Combodia 7.Mianmar 8.Thailand 9.Turkey 10.Indonesia 11.Pakistan Turkey: This country is suitable for highly decorative and fancy garments. China: Buyers select China for decorative garments and short time shipment. India: Buyers select India for decorative garments. Vietnam: Buyers select Vietnam for plain printed T-Shirt. Combodia: Buyers select Combodia for plain printed T-Shirt. Bangladesh: Bangladesh is a Lower Developing Country with GSP facility. Buyers import various types of garments from Bangladesh. Prepared by: Hasan (1 5th –Batch; SEU) | Email: hasanbd01 5@gmail.com 3

9. GSP: The EU's "Generalized System of Preferences" (GSP) allows developing countries to pay less or no customs duties on their exports to the European Union (EU). This gives them vital access to EU markets and contributes to their economic growth. The GSP scheme is specifically designed to benefit certain developing countries and integrate them into the world economy. Today Bangladesh offers a very flexible and feasible production base for its customers in EU, America and Australia. The EU market is quota free for apparels and goods are eligible for the GSP facilities. As an LDC member Bangladesh also obtain special Tariff benefit from Canada (18% import Tax free). Importance of GSP Status: Bangladesh has an excellent opportunity to boost exports of garments to the USA and EU countries where demand for Low price Good quality Capacity So, GSP status is very important for us. With the GSP status, Bangladeshi garment products can enter the market tax free/duty free. On the other hand, its absence, it has to pay 12 percent import duties for most products. This status helps decrease the cost per unit of garments, causing the demand to rise. This not only helps the garment industry but also the entire economy. Increased trade means higher export earnings which help promote further industrialization, leading to higher economic growth. Now let us look at a more concrete example. Bangladesh’s apparel exports to the EU made a leap since January 2011 when it allowed GSP for Bangladeshi garments made from imported fabrics. Previously, Bangladesh used to enjoy the GSP benefit only for those garments made from local fabrics. Prepared by: Hasan (1 5th –Batch; SEU) | Email: hasanbd01 5@gmail.com 4

10. There is a 46 percent rise in apparel exports between a year without and with GSP, indicating the importance of this status in the country’s apparel industry. Bangladesh Export to the EU (Graph of GSP) Without it, the price per unit of garment will rise and this may lead to many European buyers turning their backs on our products. Prepared by: Hasan (1 5th –Batch; SEU) | Email: hasanbd01 5@gmail.com 5

11. Steps of Garments Export Procedure: 1. Inquiry of a product: First of all, supplier collects the product from the buyer and enquiry the product. 2. Space Availability/Timely delivery: Space availability is the availability of production floor for the production of garments. Within the time, garments must be delivery. 3. Costing/Price Quotation: Costing means the way of calculating the cost of production of garments. Costing is done considering- i)Fabric cost ii)Accessories cost & iii)CM (Cost of Making) cost Way of Costing: Costing can be done by- i)Original Sample ii)Specification 4. Order Confirmation: An order confirmation is a written document which is issued by buyer to the manufacturer which contains Tech-pack. It serves as tool to avoid confusion and mistakes. 5. PO (Purchase Order): After confirmation of an order buyer provides seller a written document which mention the order details such as- -Order quantity -Delivery date -Port of destination (POD) -Item description -Item unit price etc. 6. Master L/C: When a L/C is opened to import goods directly from the manufacturer is called Master L/C. This L/C is issued by the buyer (Buyer’s bank) to manufacturer. Master L/C has higher financial value than back to back L/C. Prepared by: Hasan (1 5th –Batch; SEU) | Email: hasanbd01 5@gmail.com 6

12. 7. T & A Calendar Made by the factory: T & A or “Time and Action” calendar is made by the manufacturer to complete the production within a specific period of time. 8. Fabric & Accessories Booking by the factory: After making of T & A calendar, fabric & accessories booking is necessary. Without fabric all materials used in garments is called “Accessories” or “Trimmings”. Accessories include- Sewing Thread, Button, Interlining, Lining, Zipper, Label, Hager, Rib, Plastic Clip, Price tag, Poly bag, Carton, etc. 9. BB (Back to Back) L/C opened by the factory: When a L/C is prepared by the manufacturer to collect raw materials from the raw materials supplier for the production is called Back to Back L/C. Back to Back L/C has 70-80% financial value of Master L/C. Difference between Master L/C and Back to Back L/C: SL No. Subject Master L/C 01 Definition Master L/C is prepared by the buyer to import goods from the manufacturer. Back to Back L/C BB L/C is prepared by the manufacturer to collect raw materials from raw materials supplier for the production. Issued by the manufacturer’s bank. It depends on master L/C. 02 Issued Bank Types of L/C Purpose Issued by the buyer’s bank. 03 It is a basic L/C. 04 To import goods from the manufacturer. It has higher financial value than Back to Back L/C. To collect raw materials from the raw material suppliers. It has lower financial value than master L/C. 05 Financial Value Prepared by: Hasan (1 5th –Batch; SEU) | Email: hasanbd01 5@gmail.com 7

13. 10. Sampling: In garments industry, the sample which is come from buyer and it is followed for bulk production is called sample. The process of collecting or making sample is called “Sampling”. Types of Garments Sample: a.Proto Sample: Features: This sample is made by available fabric and accessories. This sample is made before or after order confirmation. Purpose: Here buyer checks whether supplier can make the garments. b.Fit Sample: Features: This sample is made by available fabric and accessories. This sample is made after order confirmation. Purpose: Here buyer checks the fitness or measurement of the garments. c.P.P (Pre-Production) Sample: Features: This sample is made by actual fabric and accessories. This sample is made after order confirmation. These samples must be approved by the buyer before production. Purpose: Bulk production is done following P.P sample. d.Size Set Sample: Features: These samples are made in all sizes. These samples are made in the production floor. These samples are not sent to the buyer. Purpose: These samples are only used for PP meeting. Prepared by: Hasan (1 5th –Batch; SEU) | Email: hasanbd01 5@gmail.com 8

14. e.Production Sample: Features: These samples are collected from the production floor while bulk production is running. These samples are sent to the buyer. Purpose: Here buyer compares Production Sample with the PP Sample. f.Garments Test Sample: Features: These samples are collected from the production floor while bulk production is running. These samples are sent to the testing house. Purpose: Here Testing House tests different aspects of the garments and send “test report” to the buyer and factory. Common Tests of Garments: Common tests of garments are below- Dimensional Stability Tests Seam Strength Tests Button Attaching Tests Spirality Tests Color Fastness Tests Abrasion Tests Radiation of Materials Tests Name of Some Testing Houses/Companies: i)SGS ii)ITS iii)TUV SUD iv)Burean Veritas Multinational Functions of Testing Houses: Garment test Fabric test Accessories test Inline-inspection Pre-final inspection Final inspection Garments factory auditing for compliance. Prepared by: Hasan (1 5th –Batch; SEU) | Email: hasanbd01 5@gmail.com 9

15. g.Shipment Samples: Features: These samples are not so mandatory. These samples are sent to the buyer after shipment of the garments. Purpose: Here buyer compares Shipment Sample with Production Sample. h.Salesman Samples: The sample which is made for market appraisal or marketing purpose then it is called salesman sample. It is made at the final stage of order confirmation and actual materials are used for marketing the sample. 11. Fabric & Trims in House: Here confirms all fabrics and accessories in manufacturer storehouse in time. Otherwise the schedule will be hampered. 12. Inspection of Inventory& Report Making: Check the quality & quantity of fabrics and accessories in house. After checking a report is made with the test data. 13. PP (Pre-production) Meeting: This meeting is held just before going to the bulk production. This meeting is conducted by following persons- Buying House QC Factory QC Buying House Merchandiser Factory Merchandiser Pattern Master Cutting Master Production Manager Sample man 14. Pattern and Marker Making for Bulk Production: Pattern is a hard paper which is made by following all the specifications of each and individual components for a particular style of garment. Marker is a thin paper which contains all the necessary pattern pieces for all sizes for a particular style of garments. 15. Trial or Pilot Cutting: Little amount (for 200-300 pieces of garments) of fabrics are cut for checking the efficiency and production cost of the garments. Prepared by: Hasan (1 5th –Batch; SEU) | Email: hasanbd01 5@gmail.com 10

16. 16. Bulk Cutting: Here, total fabrics are cut for bulk production. 17. Numbering, Sorting & Bundling: After cutting, fabrics have to do numbering, sorting and bundling to avoid shade variation in the garments. Then cut pieces are sent to the sewing section. 18. Production Line Set-up: Here, production team sets a perfect production line for completing smooth garments production. Production line is 4 types – 19. Sewing: Here, all the cutting fabrics are sewn to make the complete garments according to the approved sample. Different types of sewing machines are used in production line. 20. Finishing: All the required finishing procedures are done here by following the buyer’s instruction. 21. Pre-Final Inspection: This inspection is done after complete of 70% production by factory QC. 22. Final Inspection: This inspection is done after complete of 100% production. Final inspection is conducted by the – i) Buyer ii)Buyer QC iii)Trader QC iv)Self-Inspection: Conducted by the factory QC. v)Third Party Inspection: Conducted by the testing houses. 23. Delivery: If everything is ok, then manufacturer sent the goods to the buyer. Foreign Local Prepared by: Hasan (1 5th –Batch; SEU) | Email: hasanbd01 5@gmail.com 11

17. Line Balancing: Line balancing is the allocation of sewing machines according to style and design of garment. It depends on, what type of garments we have to produce. It is done for increasing production quantity & quality. In-line Inspection: During production, buyer QC will come and check the product quality and suggest to over-come any type of problem. This type of inspection is called In- line Inspection. On-line Inspection: This inspection is done at the end of the production line during production is called On-line Inspection. This inspection is conducted by the factory QC. Tech. Pack (Technical Package): The file which contains the specification of product is called “Tech-pack” or “Specification File” or “PDM” (Product Development Manual) or “Order Sheet” or “Product Package”. Technical Package is issued by the buyer and collected by the manufacturer. A technical package which mention- i)Design or Sketch of garments ii)Fabric details: Composition Color Construction GSM or oz/yd2 Any other instruction iii)Accessories details iv)Garments Size ( called “Measurement Chart” or “Size Chart” ) v)Any Kind of Instruction BOM Sheet: The pages of specification file which contains fabric and accessories detail is called BOM (Bill of Materials) Sheet. ICD: ICD means Inland Container Depot. The goods which are not suitable to transport in carton because of introducing crease marks. So goods are transport by hanging in ICD. These goods are suit, blazer, dress pant, dress shirt etc. Prepared by: Hasan (1 5th –Batch; SEU) | Email: hasanbd01 5@gmail.com 12

18. Lead Time: The time between order confirmation to the delivery is called lead time. Stock Lot: When goods are made for buyer but not possible to send the goods to buyer due to failure of commitment with buyer as a result goods stay in store. These goods are called stock lot. FOB (Free on Board): It is the value of the product which is claimed or fixed without transportation cost of the goods. C & F (Cost and Freight): It is the value of the product which is claimed or fixed including transportation cost of the goods. CIF (Cost, Insurance and Freight): It is the value of the product which is claimed or fixed including transportation cost and insurance cost. CM (Cost of Making): Buyer will provide all the fabric and accessories. Manufacturer has to make only garment and he will get the making charge only. CMT (Cost of Making with Trimming): Buyer will provide all fabric. Manufacturer will get the making charge and at the same time will get the trimming cost. Prepared by: Hasan (1 5th –Batch; SEU) | Email: hasanbd01 5@gmail.com 13

19. What is Quality? Quality is the fulfillment of customer requirement of a product or service. What is Quality Control? The operational techniques and the activities used to fulfill requirements of quality. What is Quality Assurance? All those planned or systematic actions necessary to provide adequate confidence that a product or service will satisfy given requirements for quality. What is Quality Policy? The overall intentions and directions of an organization as regards quality as formally expressed by top management. What is Quality Management? The aspect of the overall management function that determines and implements the quality policy. What is Quality System? The organizational structure, responsibilities, procedures, processes and resources for implementing quality management. What is Quality Plan? A document setting out the specific quality practices, resources and activities relevant to a particular product, service, contract or project. What is Inspection? Activities, such measuring, examining, testing, gauging, one or more characteristics of a product or service and comparing these with specified requirements to determine conformity. What is Testing? A means of determining the capability of an item to meet specified requirements by subjecting the item to a set of physical, chemical, environmental, or operating actions and conditions. Prepared by: Hasan (1 5th –Batch; SEU) | Email: hasanbd01 5@gmail.com 14

20. Garments L/ C, Delivery & Payment Process Chart: Prepared by: Hasan (1 5th –Batch; SEU) | Email: hasanbd01 5@gmail.com 15

21. Different types of Agents in Garments Sector: 1. Currier Companies: Sample or any other important documents necessary for export are sent by the currier. Name of Some Currier: 1.DHL 2.Aramex 3.TNT 4.Fedex 5.UPS 6.Sky net 7.DPEX 8.Dragon 2. C& F (Clearing & Forwarding) Agent: They are only handle all kinds of customs related documents are called C & F Agent. They work for exporter. Exporter pays the C & F Agents. Name of Some C & F Agent: 1.Continental 2.Chitra 3.Epsheeta 3. Logistic Firms or Freight Forwarding Agent or Forwarder: The firms or agents which take the responsibility to receive the goods from factory to Chittagong port and send to the buyer destination or buyer agent are called “Logistic Firms”. Buyer pays the logistic firms. Names of Some Logistic Firms: i)Maersk ii)APL iii)MGH iv)NYK v)Kuhen & Negel vi)Expolonca vii) Damco viii)NMC Corporation Ltd. ix)HTL Logistic x)Crown Logistic Prepared by: Hasan (1 5th –Batch; SEU) | Email: hasanbd01 5@gmail.com 16

22. 4. Bank: They take care our payment and all financial matters. 5. Testing Companies: Functions of testing company: Garment test Fabric test Accessories test Inline-inspection Pre-final inspection Final inspection Garments factory auditing for compliance. 6. Transportation Companies: Any kind of textile material transport by transportation companies. Prepared by: Hasan (1 5th –Batch; SEU) | Email: hasanbd01 5@gmail.com 17

23. Documents required for Export: 1. Trade License: This license is used for business permission. It is issued by City Corporation or Poroshova. 2. Bank current account: This account will be any scheduled commercial bank. 3. TIN (Tax Identification Number) certificate: It is issued by NBR (National Board of Revenue). 4. Membership of BGMEA or BKMEA or DCCI or BGBA: This membership which protect from any kind of accident such as conflict between any industry. Note: BGMEA = Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers & Exporters Association. BKMEA = Bangladesh Knitwear Manufacturers & Exporters Association. DCCI = Dhaka Chamber of Commerce & Industry. BGBA = Bangladesh Garment Buying House Association. 5. ERC (Export Registration Certificate): It is issued by office of the controller of export & import. 6. VRC (Vat Registration Certificate): It is issued by customs. It does not need to renew. 7. EXP (Export Permission): It is issued by any scheduled commercial bank. For each order this EXP is issued separately. 8. Memorandum of association: It is a document that is issued by RJSC (Registered of Joint Stock Companies and Firms) which indicates the partnership specially share percentage, profit percentage and any kind of partnership details in case of limited company. 9. Certification of incorporation: It is issued by RJSC (Registered of Joint Stock Companies and Firms) include member details. Note: 1-5 and 7 all points are renew every year. Prepared by: Hasan (1 5th –Batch; SEU) | Email: hasanbd01 5@gmail.com 18

24. Documents required for I mport: 1. Trade License: This license is used for business permission. It is issued by City Corporation or Poroshova. 2. Bank current account: This account will be any scheduled commercial bank. 3. TIN (Tax Identification Number) certificate: It is issued by NBR (National Board of Revenue). 4. Membership of BGMEA or BKMEA or DCCI or BGBA: This membership which protect from any kind of accident such as conflict between any industry. Note: BGMEA = Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers & Exporters Association. BKMEA = Bangladesh Knitwear Manufacturers & Exporters Association. DCCI = Dhaka Chamber of Commerce & Industry. BGBA = Bangladesh Garment Buying House Association. 5. IRC (Import Registration Certificate): It is issued by office of the controller of export & import. 6. VRC (Vat Registration Certificate): It is issued by customs. It does not need to renew. 7. IMP (Import Permission): It is issued by any scheduled commercial bank. For each order this EXP is issued separately. 8. Memorandum of association: It is a document that is issued by RJSC (Registered of Joint Stock Companies and Firms) which indicates the partnership specially share percentage, profit percentage and any kind of partnership details in case of limited company. 9. Certification of incorporation: It is issued by RJSC (Registered Joint Stock Company) include member details. Note: 1-5 and 7 all points are renew every year. Prepared by: Hasan (1 5th –Batch; SEU) | Email: hasanbd01 5@gmail.com 19

25. Different types of Payment methods in Garments Trade: 1. L/C (Letter of Credit): A guarantee letter of payment. This letter ensures that seller will get his payment after delivery of the goods. Types of L/C- a)L/C at sight: In case of L/C at sight after delivery of the goods and documents seller will get his payment instantly. b)Deferred at sight: In case of deferred at sight after delivery of the goods and documents seller will not get his payment instantly. Such as- L/C at 30 days sight L/C at 45 days sight L/C at 60 days sight L/C at 90 days sight L/C at 120 days sight L/C at 180 days sight 2. T/T (Telegraphic Transfer): T/T means Cash Taka. When order quantity is very small and need urgent delivery, in that case, buyer gives purchase contract instead of L/C and sends money to seller bank by T/T. After getting money, the seller sends the goods to buyer. Now it is not use. Types of T/T- a)Open T/T: Buyer will pay open either 100% or 70% or 50% or 30%. b)Conditional T/T: Buyer will pay advance but can not money without showing documents. 3. D/P (Documents against payment): Buyer gives order by sales contract instead of L/C but it is risky method. After delivery of the goods and documents seller will not get his payment guaranteed. Prepared by: Hasan (1 5th –Batch; SEU) | Email: hasanbd01 5@gmail.com 20

26. 4. D/A (Documents against acceptance): This is the most risky method. After delivery of the good send documents buyer will delay the payment. Such as- D/A at 30 days sight D/A at 45 days sight D/A at 60 days sight D/A at 90 days sight D/A at 120 days sight D/A at 180 days sight 5. Western Union: This union is used for very small quantity of the garments. For example: 300pcs of garments. Documents required for Payment: 1. Commercial invoice: It is a very important document in readymade garments business which is sent with the goods to the buyer. The invoice includes name & address of importer and exporter, description of goods, price, number of carton, number of goods in every carton, details of shipment etc. A shipment is not allowed without a commercial invoice. 2. Packing List: This is a document that indicates the contents of each individual carton/ package in the container. The packing list includes the cubic measurement of the cartons/package, the weight, the number of cartons/packages, the breakdown of the goods by size/color/quantity. This document is prepared by the seller or the ship owner, and the buyer can specify which information should be included. 3. Bill of Landing or Air Way Bill: Bill of Landing is a document which is issued by the shipping company acknowledging that the goods have been shipped on board or air and undertaking that the goods as received will be delivered to the consignee (Buyer). When the export contract is CIF, then the exporter makes payment of the freight and gets “freight paid” Bill of Landing. On the other hand, if the contract is FOB, the freight has to be paid by the importer. In that case, the shipping company will issue a “freight collect” Bill of Landing. Prepared by: Hasan (1 5th –Batch; SEU) | Email: hasanbd01 5@gmail.com 21

27. Garments common item export from Bangladesh There are three categories of garments that we export-  Woven Garments  Knit Garments &  Heavy Knit Garments Woven Garments: 1. Shirt: Men top garments. Shirt is of two types- a)Basic/Formal/Dress/Official shirt b)Casual/Pilot shirt 2. Pants/Trouser: Men bottom garments. Pants may be of two types- a)Formal/Dress/Chino pants b)Casual pants. e.g. Jeans pants, Cargo pants. 3. Half Pants or Shorts: Men bottom garments above the knee. e.g. Cargo shorts. 4. 3/4 of Pants or Bermuda: Men bottom garments below the knee & above the ankle. e.g. Three quarter. 5. Skirt: Ladies bottom garments. 6. Blouse: Ladies top garments. e.g. Ladies shirt or ladies fotua. Fig: Pant Fig: Shirt Fig: Half pant Fig: Skirt Fig:Three quarter 7. Dress: Ladies top garments. e.g. Ladies kamiz. 8. Capri’s: Ladies pant below the knee & above the ankle but not ¾ of pants. Fig: Capris Fig: Ladies shirt Prepared by: Hasan (1 5th –Batch; SEU) | Email: hasanbd01 5@gmail.com 22

28. 9. Jacket/Blazer/Coat: Men top garments containing “Lapel” and Taffeta. 10. Padded Jacket: Jacket that contains “Quilting”. 11. Trench Coat: Long coat with waist belt. Fig: Pant Fig: Blazer 12. Gilet: Sleeveless thick jacket that is mainly used in Europe. 13. Parka: It is another type of jacket but in has a hairy look in the collar part. 14. Vest/over coat/waist coat: Sleeveless coat with button at front that is basically used as dress. e.g. Mujib coat. 15. Pajamas/Night wear/Sleep wear: Night dress- both top & bottom. 16. Cover all: One type of work wear that covers full body. 17. Overall: One type of sleeveless work wear that covers full body. 18. Short all: One type of sleeveless work wear that covers half of the body. 19. Head Wear: Different types of cap, hat etc. Fig: Parka Fig: Gilet Fig: Vest Fig: Cap Prepared by: Hasan (1 5th –Batch; SEU) | Email: hasanbd01 5@gmail.com 23

29. Knit or Light Knit Garments: 1. T-Shirt: Top garments that must not contain placket. It may contain half collar or not. Collar of T-Shirt is made by circular rib machine. Generally single jersey fabric of GSM 120-220 is used to make T-Shirt. 2. Polo Shirt: Top garments that must have placket and collar. The collar of Polo Shirt is made by flat bed knitting machine. Double jersey fabrics are used to make Polo Shirt. 3. Tank Top: Sleeveless top garments for men containing strap. E.g. Santo ganji. 4. Sweat Shirt: Long sleeve T-Shirt made by fleece fabric. 5. Swim wear: Clothing specially made for swimming purposes. These garments are skin tight, made of hydrophobic fibre and water proof. 6. Sports Wear: Garments used in any type of sports. 7. Socks: An item of clothing that is worn on feet. Fig: Swim wear Fig: T-shirt Fig: Polo-shirt Fig: Santo ganji Fig: Sports wear Fig: Socks Prepared by: Hasan (1 5th –Batch; SEU) | Email: hasanbd01 5@gmail.com 24

30. 8. Hoody: Long sleeve top garments with hood. Generally made of fleece fabric. 9. Knit dress 10. Knit Pajamas: Night dress- both top & bottom. 11. Knit Trousers: Basically knitted pants which are very much comfortable to wear. 12. Briefs: Men’s under wear (short). 13. Lingerie: Only ladies under garments. 14. Singlet: Sleeveless ladies top garments with strap. Fig: Hoody 15. Tights/Hose/Leggings: Tight fit ladies garments. Used in Bottom. Fig: Briefs Fig: Lingerie Fig: Singlet Fig: Tights 16. Gloves: Gloves have individual finger coverings, offering more mobility but less overall warmth than mittens. Fig: Gloves 17. Mitten: A covering for the hand that encases the thumb separately and the four fingers together. 18. Boxer Shorts: Long size men underwear above the knee. Fig: Boxer shorts Fig: Mitten Prepared by: Hasan (1 5th –Batch; SEU) | Email: hasanbd01 5@gmail.com 25

31. Heavy Knit or Sweater: 1. Pullover: Long sleeve sweater without button at front. 2. Slipover: Sleeveless sweater without button at front. 3. Vest/Waist Coat/Over Coat: Sleeveless sweater with button at front. 4. Cardigan: Long sleeve sweater with button at front. 5. Zip-up: Long sleeve sweater with zipper at front. 6. Half-zip: Long sleeve sweater with half-zipper at front. Fig: Pullover Fig: Slipover Fig: Vest Fig: Zip-up Fig: Half-zip Fig: Cardigan Prepared by: Hasan (1 5th –Batch; SEU) | Email: hasanbd01 5@gmail.com 26

32. Types of Fleece: Generally there are two types of fleece. i. Terry fleece: Here one side single jersey and other side is brushed. Polar fleece: Here both sides are brushed. ii. Types of Stripe: Generally there are two types of stripe. 1. Feeder Stripe: If the repeat length of the stripe is below 4cm then it is called feeder stripe. Fig: Terry fleece Fig: Polar fleece 2. Engineering Stripe: If the repeat length of the stripe is above 4cm then it is called engineering stripe. Outer Wear: Garments that protection from bad weather are called outer wear. e.g. Rain Coat, Trench Coat, Gilet, Wind Breaker. Prepared by: Hasan (1 5th –Batch; SEU) | Email: hasanbd01 5@gmail.com 27

33. Garments Accessories/ Trims Without fabric all materials used in garments is called accessories or Trimmings. It includes thread, button, interlining, zipper, label etc. Accessories can be divided into 2 groups- Sewing accessories Finishing accessories Sewing accessories: 1. Sewing thread: The physical appearance and quality of seam is directly related to sewing thread. It is one of the main elements to production garment. Sewing thread play an important factor to join two parts of fabric. Sewing threads are produced from ply of yarn which is used for sewing. 2. Interlining: Interlining is one kind of accessories which is used between two layers of fabrics in the garments. It is joined by sewingand heating. The main purpose of these fabrics is used to hold up, support, control area of garments and to keep real shape. Interlining fabric is made of cotton, nylon, polyester, viscose and wool are used in interlining. It can be used canvas, flannel and non-woven fabrics. Generally two types of interlining are used in garment processing which are fusible interlining and non-fusible interlining. Uses: Interlining is normally used in cuffs, collar, waist band, belt loop & the front part of jacket & coats. 3. Lining: Lining is a piece of fabric which is used to cover the inner surfaces of garmentsespecially when inner face employs different materials from the outer surface. It is joined by sewing. The main purpose of these fabrics is used to feel comfort and to prevent wear on a side. Generally smooth and lustrous fabrics made of silk or cotton is used in lining. It can be used lustrous wool alpaca fabric or silk filling. Uses: Lining is mostly applied in jackets and coats. Fig: Interlining Fig: Lining Fig: Sewing thread Prepared by: Hasan (1 5th –Batch; SEU) | Email: hasanbd01 5@gmail.com 28

34. 4. Label: A label is a part of garments which indicates various instructions about garments. Label is attached with garments by sewing. It is 2 types- woven label and printed label. Normally 3 types of labels are used in apparel industry-  Main label: It contains brand name or trade name, country name of buyer which is registered by the buyer e.g. Levi’s, Polo, Adidas, GAP, Lewis Philippe, etc.  Size label: It indicates the size of the garment i.e. S, M, L, XL, XXL, or collar length of shirt 15, 16, 17, 18, etc.  Care label: It contains fabric composition and care instructions and also the name of the country or origin. Fig: Main label Fig: Size label Fig: Care label 5. Zipper: This is one kind of trimming which is used open and close of two parts of garments. But it’s also used for decorative purpose. It has mainly 4 parts- stopper, slider, tape and teeth. Zipper length is measured from stopper to stopper. Tape is normally made of nylon or polyester to avoid shrinkage. Zipper teeth are normally made of metal, aluminum, black oxidized, molded plastic. Types of Zipper: Metal zipper (golden brass, antique brass, antique silver, gunmetal, silver etc.) Aluminum zipper Black Oxidized zipper Molded Plastic zipper Types of Zippers based on Functionality: OE Zipper = Open end zipper using in jackets. CE Zipper = Closed end zipper using in trousers. Prepared by: Hasan (1 5th –Batch; SEU) | Email: hasanbd01 5@gmail.com 29

35. 6. Elastic: It is made of elastomeric fibres. Elastic tapes are mentioned by their width, such as ½″, ¾″, 1″, 1.5″, 2″, 5″ etc. It may be of different colors and it is found with different stretch ability. Uses: For kids (up to 0-11) trousers and shorts, button hole elastic must be used. Also used for the bottom waist band of a jacket, vest or pull-over shirt. Also for pants, shorts and skirts. 7. Twill tap: Herringbone type tape used in polo-shirt, binding in T-shirt, Cargo pant etc. 8. Canvas tap: Plain weave type tape used in polo-shirt, binding in T-shirt etc. 9. Shoulder pad: Shoulder pads are shaped pad which is used at the shoulder areas of a garment to give a raised shape or an extended shoulder line to the finished garment. It is made from foam. Normally used in blazer and jacket. 10. Premade waist band: Pre-made waist band is used inside the waist band for extra decoration. Fig: Elastic Fig: Twill tape Fig: Canvas tape Fig: Shoulder pad Fig: Pre-made waist band Prepared by: Hasan (1 5th –Batch; SEU) | Email: hasanbd01 5@gmail.com 30

36. 11. Rib: Rib is a double jersey fabric. Rib is used as- Collar of T-shirt: This is made by circular knitting machine. Collar of Polo-shirt: This is made by flat-bed knitting machine. Collar of sweater & hoody. Cuff of T-shirt & Polo-shirt Cuff of sweater & hoody. 12: Button: A button is a small disc, typically round, object usually attached to an article of clothing in order to secure an opening, or for ornamentation. Button is made of plastic or metal. Example, 12L, 16L, 18L, 24L, 26L, 28L, 32L, 36L etc. Normally size of button is measured by “Ligne”. We know that, 1 Ligne = 0.025inch or 0.635 mm Types of Button: According to number of holes button can be classified as- 2 hole button & 4 hole button Ligne no: It is the measuring unit of the button. It indicates the diameter of button. If diameter increases, ligne no also increases. Where, 1 Ligne = 0.025inch or 0.635 mm How to measure of button size? 28L 17.8mm Formula: Button Ligne (L) = Button dia in mm / 0.635 Example: If the button diameter is 15mm then what will be the size of button? Solution: So, L = 15/0.635 = 23.62 = 24 L Fig: Button Fig: Rib Prepared by: Hasan (1 5th –Batch; SEU) | Email: hasanbd01 5@gmail.com 31

37. 13. Hook & loop or Hook & Bar or Velcro: This item consists of two woven polyamide tapes; one is covered with very fine hooks and the other with very fine loops. When pressed together they adhere (stick) securely to each other. This fastener is also used instead of buttons or zippers. A Swiss inventor made this product and he offered the trade name ‘Velcro’ for it. Velcro is available in roll form in the market which has most common width of 5/8 to 3/4 inch. Uses: Normally used in kids wear, jacket, cargo pants, medical textiles, shoes, belts, bags etc. Fig: Hook & Loop Prepared by: Hasan (1 5th –Batch; SEU) | Email: hasanbd01 5@gmail.com 32

38. Finishing accessories: Accessories that used in finishing are called finishing accessories. Finishing accessories generally used in garments are described below- 1. Shank Button: Shank Button is a fastening device. It contains two parts which are attached by pressing. It is used in casual garments. The button hole of shank button is called “Eyelet’’. This button is attached by snap attaching machine. 2. Rivet: The uses of rivet are mostly seen at jeans pant and heavy garments. Rivet is a small metal bolt which is used two parts of tension place in garments. It is a fastening device contains two parts. Widely used for decorative and reinforcement purpose of denim or jeans garments. 3. Snap: Snap is a fastening device that contains four parts. 4. Buckle: Metal buckle used in waist band of trench coat. 5. Patch: To attach back side of waist belt of jeans which contain brand name. Made of leather or rexgine. It is used for decorative purpose. Fig: Buckle Fig: Shank button Fig: Rivet Fig: Snap Fig: Patch Prepared by: Hasan (1 5th –Batch; SEU) | Email: hasanbd01 5@gmail.com 33

39. 6. Pocket Flasher: Pocket flasher is normally used in trouser’s pocket. It is a hard paper. 7. Butterfly: The uses of butterfly are mostly seen in the front part of collar of shirts where button is attached. Generally made of plastic or paper. 8. Collar Stay: Normally collar stay is used in collar points of a shirt which is invisible. 9. Collar Stand: Generally made of plastic or paper to keep the shape of the collar. 10. Neck Board: Generally found at the back & below the collar of a shirt. Made of paper or plastic. 11. Back Board/Card Board: Backboard is a hardboard/hard paper is placed inside shirt for keeping its shape unchanged after packing. 12. Clip: A clip is a device which holds the fold portion of the garment together by means of pressure. Note: Point (7-12) accessories of shirt. Fig: Collar stay Fig: Pocket flasher Fig: Butterfly Fig: Collar stand Fig: Back board Fig: Clip Prepared by: Hasan (1 5th –Batch; SEU) | Email: hasanbd01 5@gmail.com 34

40. 16. Poly Bag: A poly bag is a plastic bag used for packing garments. The garment is first folded as per direction of the order sheet then is packed. There are two types of poly bag used in garments packing; one is single poly bag in that a single garment is packed and the other is blister poly bag in that more than one garment are packed. For packing the garments into blister poly bag, packing instructions must be followed. 17. Carton: It is used in packing garments ready for shipment. Carton box is made by using ply board. The dimensions of the cartons depend on buyer instructions and the number of pieces of garments in each carton is given in the order sheet. Sometimes a carton is also called a box. Number of ply indicates the quality of a carton. Generally 3, 5, 7, 9 ply cartons are available. Ply Carton strength Cost Fig: Draw cord Fig: Pant (Trouser) Fig: Stopper Fig: Carton Fig: Polybag Prepared by: Hasan (1 5th –Batch; SEU) | Email: hasanbd01 5@gmail.com 35

41. 18. Hook & Eye: Hooks and eyes are small but comparatively strong fasteners which contains 4 parts. Though they are mostly applied at single point of a garment opening, such as waistband or neckline, they can also be used to fasten an entire opening. Normally used in formal pants, kids garments etc. 19. Price tag: Price tag/ticket also known as UPC (Unit price code) ticket in the apparel industry. It is paper-made tag which normally mentions price and bar code. Barcode sticker may be attached separately on it. 20. Hang tag: Hangtags are designed to draw attention to the garments and are hung on the side of the garments and sometimes in front of button line so that the customers can see them easily.Hang tag usually show the brand name, style no, etc. 21. Tag pin: Help to hang the price ticket & others tag. 22. Hanger: Hanger is used for hanging the garments. It is important for hang shirt, coat and also different kinds of garments. Fig: Hook & eye Fig: Price tag Fig: Hang tag Fig: Hanger Fig: Tag pin Prepared by: Hasan (1 5th –Batch; SEU) | Email: hasanbd01 5@gmail.com 36

42. 23. Size clip or Sizer: Sizer is a part of hanger which contains garments size. 24. Size Strip: Trim that used at front of pants. It contains the size of the pants. 25. Belt: 26. Tissue Paper: Thin & soft paper, normally used for wrapping or protecting fragile or delicate articles. 27. Photo-in-lay: Photo-in-lay is used for packing Santo ganji. 28. Gum Tape: Gum tapes are used for closing the carton. D- ring Fig: Size clip Fig: Size strip Fig: Belt Fig: Gum tape Fig: Tissue paper Fig: Photo-in-lay Name of Some Accessories Company in Bangladesh: 1.Montrims. (Anser Academy, Sofipur, Gazipur) Largest accessories manufacturing company in Bangladesh. 2.KDS Prepared by: Hasan (1 5th –Batch; SEU) | Email: hasanbd01 5@gmail.com 37

43. What is Motif? The special component which is attached outside of the garment for decorative purpose is called motif. Generally motif contains a Company Name, Brand Name, Trade Mark and some kinds of symbols of garments. What is Applique? Additional fabric added in the face side of the garments for increasing the beauty of the dress which is called applique. It is made by Laser cutting machine and attached by sewing in embroidery section. Fig: Applique Prepared by: Hasan (1 5th –Batch; SEU) | Email: hasanbd01 5@gmail.com 38

44. Stitch and S eam: Stitch: Stitch is a loop or unit in seam line which is produced by sewing thread from a sewing machine. Seam: Seam is a joint where two or more plies of fabric are held together. Sewing: The process of joining of fabric by the use of needle and sewing thread is called sewing. Difference between yarn and thread: Yarn is produced from spinning which is used for producing fabric and thread is produced from ply of yarn which is used for sewing. Stitch Seam Thread is used in sewing because of its- More strength More durability More abrasion resistant etc. Methods of Stitch Formation: Interlooping Intralooping Interlacing One loop of one thread passes through another loop of another thread. Here, two threads are used. One loop of one thread passes through another loop of the same thread. Here, one thread is used. One thread passes over another thread. Here, two threads are used. Prepared by: Hasan (1 5th –Batch; SEU) | Email: hasanbd01 5@gmail.com 39

45. Types of Stitch: Stitch types are generally classified in six categories. These are - 1.Stitch Class-100 (Single thread chain stitch) 2.Stitch Class-200 (Hand stitch) 3.Stitch Class-300 (Lock stitch) 4.Stitch Class-400 (Multi thread chain stitch) 5.Stitch Class-500 (Over lock stitch or over edge neatening) 6.Stitch Class-600 (Covering chain stitch) Some brief descriptions of various stitch classes are given below. 1. Stitch Class-100 (Single thread chain stitch): In this stitch, one loop passing through another loop of same thread. Stitches are formed one set of thread called “Needle Thread”. Stitches are formed by intra-looping. If one end of stitch is pulled then whole sewing will be opened. The appearance of face and back are different in apparel. Sub-Classes: a). 101: Feature: Uses temporary purposes which can easily pick up. Uses: It is used for blasting of blazer (temporary stitching). e.g. Blazer components joining before final sewing to cooperate sewing. Basting: Primary & temporary stitching before final stitch with a view to facilitating accurate placement is called basting. Basting could be done either by hand or machine. b). 103 (Blind Stitch): Feature: Front side is invisible and back side is like chain. Uses: Bottom hemming of dress pants. Fig. Single thread chain stitch Upper Side Bottom Side Prepared by: Hasan (1 5th –Batch; SEU) | Email: hasanbd01 5@gmail.com 40

46. 2. Stitch Class-200 (Hand stitch): Features: Hand stitch is passed completely from one side to the other. Hand stitch is originally made by hand but now can be formed by sewing machine. The appearance of face and back are same. Uses: Hand stitch is used for decorative purposes. It is specially used in collar, pocket, front placket, shoulder etc. Sub-Classes: a)202(Hand Stitch): This type of stitch is formed by hand. Fig. Hand stitch b)209: This type of stitch is formed by “Pique Stitch Machine’’. Uses: Top stitch lapel of blazer, collar of shirt, saddle stitch etc. Saddle stitch: A special type of stitch which is formed by pique stitch machine using thick thread. It is used in Cowboy jeans. 3. Stitch Class 300 (Lock stitch): Features: This type of stitch is formed by two sets of threads one set is called needle thread and another set is called looper thread. Seam security extremely high. Face and back has same appearance. The stitch is difficult to pick up. Disadvantages: Very poor elasticity. Bobbin thread required frequently changing. Fig. Lock stitch Prepared by: Hasan (1 5th –Batch; SEU) | Email: hasanbd01 5@gmail.com 41

47. Sub-Classes: a)301(Lock stitch): Uses: All kind of top stitching in garments. b)304(Zig-zag stitch): Uses: To attach elastic and lace in the garments. 4. Stitch Class 400 (Multi-thread chain stitch). Features: This type of stitch is formed by two sets of threads one set is called needle thread and another set is called looper thread. One side of stitch is like lock stitch and other side is like chain. Elasticity is good. It is widely used for making knitted garments. Needle thread (Upper part) Bobbin thread (Lower part) Needle Thread Bobbin Thread Disadvantages: Seam security is not strong. Sub-Classes: a)401: 1Needle + 1Looper Uses: Waist band of jeans, inseam of jeans. Upper Side Bottom Side Prepared by: Hasan (1 5th –Batch; SEU) | Email: hasanbd01 5@gmail.com 42

48. b)406: 2Needle + 1Looper Uses: Bottom and sleeve hem of T-shirt and Polo-shirt. c)407: 3Needle + 1Looper Uses: Bottom and sleeve hem of T-shirt and Polo-shirt, elastic band of briefs. Hemming: The process of sewing of an edge or border on a piece of cloth, especially a finished edge, as for a garment or curtain, made by folding an edge under and stitching it down. e.g. Bottom edge of a shirt. 5. Stitch Class-500 (Over lock stitch or over edge neatening): Features: This type of stitch is used to prevent the fraying out of loose yarns of the edge of fabric. It requires more than two threads. It is used for making knitted garments. Upper Side Fabric Bottom Side Upper Side Fabric Bottom Side 503 504 514 515 516 401.503 Uses: Edging & sewing. These stitches are lightly extensible. 401.504 1N + 1L 1N + 2L 2N + 2L 1N 1L 1N 1L 1N 1L 1N 2L Uses: Only for edging. Uses: Edging and light seaming. Uses: Edging and heavy seaming. Note: 503,504,514 are British Standard & 515 & 516 (Combination Stitch) are US Standard. Prepared by: Hasan (1 5th –Batch; SEU) | Email: hasanbd01 5@gmail.com 43

49. 6. Stitch Class-600 (Covering chain stitch): Features: This type of stitch is formed by 4 sets of thread 2 sets thread is called needle thread and another 2 sets are top and bottom covering threads or looper threads. This stitch is used for sewing under wear for attaching lace, braid, elastic etc. Sub-Classes: a)602: 2Needle + 2Looper Uses: Bottom and sleeve hem of T-shirt, Polo-shirt and decorative purpose. b)605: 3Needle + 2Looper Uses: Bottom and sleeve hem of T-shirt& Polo-shirt, elastic band of briefs and decorative purpose. c)606: 4Needle + 5Looper Uses: Not used in our country. Upper Side Fabric Bottom Side Upper Side Fabric Bottom Side Prepared by: Hasan (1 5th –Batch; SEU) | Email: hasanbd01 5@gmail.com 44

50. Type of Seam: Arrangement of fabric ends of the seam line is called seam type. They are classified into following types- 1.Seam Class-1: Super imposed seam 2.Seam Class-2: Lapped seam 3.Seam Class-3: Bound seam 4.Seam Class-4: Flat seam 5.Seam Class-5: Decorative seam 6.Seam Class-6: Edge Neatening 7.Seam Class-7: Applied seam 8.Seam Class-8: Others seam 1. Seam Class-1 (Super imposed seam): Features: Seam is achieved by two or more separate pieces of fabric sewing together. Most commonly used. The fabric ends are in same direction. This class seam can be sewn a variety of machine. e.g. Lock stitch or over lock machine. Uses: Mostly used inside seam like as shirt and pants. Fig: Super imposed seam Prepared by: Hasan (1 5th –Batch; SEU) | Email: hasanbd01 5@gmail.com 45