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Indistrial attachment of micro fibre Group

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Indistrial attachment of micro fibre Group

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  1. INDUSTRIAL TRAINING Course Code: Tex -4036 INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT MICRO FIBRE LTD 1 | P a g e

  2. Letter of Transmittal Date- 15ndMay’ 12 Syed Faqrul Hassan Professor & chairman Department of Textile Engineering Southeast University Subject: Submission of the “Industrial attachment Report”. Dear Sir, We are pleased to submit our “Industrial attachment Report” This is submitted under the program of B.Sc in Textile Engineering in Southeast University. The Report has been completed in accordance with the knowledge that we have gather during our Industrial Training and the guidelines received from our honorable teachers and our group members. We tried to make this Report is to give a clear picture on Fabric Manufacturing Technology, Wet processing Technology & Garments Manufacturing Technology practically used on Micro Fibre Ltd. However, we will always be ready to provide any further clarification that you may require. Yours Sincerely, Mohammad Tahmidur Rahman Md. Lokman Hossain Md. Abir Hossain Md. Najmus Salihin Batch: 8thSec: GMT 2008100400096 2008100400086 2008100400084 2008100400082 2 | P a g e

  3. ACKNOWLEDGEMENT At first my gratefulness goes to Almighty Allah for giving me strength and ability to complete the industrial training and this report. You have made my life more beautiful. May your name be exalted, honored and glorified. Now I wish to take this excellent opportunity to thank a lot of people who have assisted and inspired me, Prof. Syed Fakhrul Hassan my supervisor, to whom I am extremely indebted for his tremendous support and guidance throughout my training period. Working with him I have not only earned valuable knowledge but also was inspired by him innovativeness which helped enriches my experience to a greater extent. His ideas and way of working was truly remarkable. I would like to thank the management of the MICRO FIBRE LTD. for giving me the opportunity to complete the industrial training successfully and also for their valuable suggestion. My deepest gratitude goes to Executive Director Mr. Amirul Haque, General Manager Mr. Mizanur Rahaman Patwoary, Assistant general manager Mr. Solaiman Hossain, MICRO FIBRE LTD. for their permission to conduct my industrial training without which it would be impossible. Their generous support is greatly appreciated. I would also like to thank specially our senior brothers and sisters working there efficiently as textile engineer. I am greatly indebted to them. I also want to thank executives, senior executives and other official’s employee of MICRO FIBRE LTD. for helping me to complete industrial training successfully. My gratitude also goes to all the employees of MICRO FIBRE LTD. for their sincere co-operation, support and valuable advices. Finally my heartfelt thanks goes to my training mates for their indescribable co-operation & sincerity. 3 | P a g e

  4. Table of Content Topics Page no. 1 2 3 7 7 7 Letter of Transmittal ACKNOWLEDGEMENT Table Of Content Introduction Vision Mission Chapter-1 8 9 10 11 11 12 13 14 Project Description Project Location History of Project Development Different Department Product mix Layout Design Physical Infrastructure Remarks Chapter-2 MANPOWER MANAGEMENT Organ gram of man-power administration Management system Shift change Total Section Wise Man power Management system Responsibilities of S.P.O/P.O Remarks CHAPTER -03 15 16 16 16 17 17 RAW MATERIALS 18 18 18 19 19 19 19 Types of Raw Materials Yarn Sources Grey Fabrics Sources Price: Chemicals Chemical formula of common chemicals used in textile dyeing 20 4 | P a g e

  5. Printing chemicals function Annual requirement Remarks CHAPTER-4 21 21 21 Knitting Section Production Flow Chart of Knitting Section Lay-out Plan of knitting Machineries List of Single Jersey Circular knitting Machineries List of Double Jersey Circular knitting Machineries List of Auto Stripe Circular knitting Machineries List of Flat Bed knitting Machineries List of Cloth Inspection Machineries Machine Description Description of production process GSM Production calculation Required yarn count to maintain G.S.M Relation Between different yarn count, fabric type, stitch length & finished GSM Structure, cam arrangement & notation diagram of various fabric Fabric fault Remarks Chapter-05 Wet processing Section Production flow chart for fabric Dyeing Process sequence for Cotton Dyeing Pretreatment Dyeing Dyeing program for Disperse Dyes Re-dyeing process After Treatment Of All Program Common textile auxiliaries used in dyeing Problems Encountered In Dyeing Printing Finishing CHAPTER-6 Garments section Introduction Sample Section IE (Industrial Engineering) CAD Section Cutting Section Sewing Section 22 23 25 27 28 28 29 30 32 32 33 35 35 37 39 39 40 41 41 44 45 45 47 49 51 53 56 72 73 75 77 79 5 | P a g e

  6. Introduction Sewing Procedure Flow Chart Sewing Procedure Types of seam Stitch Machine Identification SEWING NEEDLE Sewing Thread SMV calculation SEWING DEFECTS OR PROBLEMS Sewing Quality Checking Points Finishing Section GARMENTS MERCHANDISING Definition Flow chart of merchandising Responsibilities of Merchandiser GARMENTS ACCESSORIES CHAPTER-7 87 88 89 92 97 102 107 110 113 114 117 118 120 120 121 122 Quality Assurance System Quality assurance Object of quality control Quality Control Flow Chart Quality Management system Various Test WORKING PROCEDURE FOR LAB Dyeing And QC Laboratory Machineries Fabric Inspection Procedure of the Different Laboratory Tests Quality Standard Remarks CHAPTER-08 124 124 125 125 127 128 129 134 137 145 146 MAINTENANCE Maintenance of machinery Manpower Set-Up For Maintenance Maintenance procedure Maintenance work to the different machines Maintenance tools/equipments & their functions Remarks CHAPTER-09 147 148 148 149 151 152 UTILITY SERVICE Available Utility Facilities Utility cost 153 156 6 | P a g e

  7. Remarks Water treatment plant Process Flow chart Function of different tank Effluent Treatment Plant (ETP) Flow chart for ETP Effluent analyzing report Chemicals Used in ETP CHAPTER-10 156 157 157 158 159 159 STORE & INVENTORY CONTROL Inventory system for raw material Grey fabrics store Dyes & chemicals store Spares Finished goods Remarks CHAPTER-11 COST ANALYSIS CHAPTER-12 MARKETING ACTIVITIES Consumers of Product Name of buyer Importing countries Manpower of marketing Strategy Duties and responsibilities of marketing officer Remarks CHAPTER -13 160 160 160 160 160 161 161 162 162 163 163 163 164 164 165 CONCLUSION Introduction: Final course industrial training is one of the most essential parts of engineering & technical education. This industrial training is included in our syllabus to acquaint us with the practical implementation of the technology studied within the industrial environment. Though it is very helpful & lays the milestone for starting the carrier for fresh Textile graduates. 7 | P a g e

  8. Fabric manufacturing, wet processing technology and Garments manufacturing technology which occupies a vast field in modern Textile technology is undergoing many stages of processing. Many problems are generally being encountered during each operation stage starting from yarn to fabric and fabric to finished garments stage. Finally from mill training, we learn practical Knowledge about on fabric manufacturing and wet processing under industrial environment. We think it will be helpful in our future carrier. Vision: To establish as a one stop source for the Global knit Apparel market and to satisfy and meet customers expectation by developing and providing products and services on time, which offer value in terms of Quality, Price, Safety and Environmental impact. Assuring complete compliance with the international quality standards and also providing the employees internationally acceptable working condition and standards. To promote the development and to use human talent and equal opportunity of employment. Mission: Micro fibre realizes the need to take out a competitive segment in the changing global market of today through technological excellence and human expertise. Micro fibre is committed to transpose its local success to the world scene. CHAPTER-01 PROJECT DESCRIPTION Name of the project : MICRO FIBRE GROUP Sister organizations : A-One polar Ltd, Liberty Knitwear Ltd, Midland Knitwear Ltd, Orient Chem.-Tex Ltd. 8 | P a g e

  9. Type of the mill : Year of establishment:1998 Registered Office: 100% export oriented knit composite textile mill. 331, Tongi Dioversion Road, Moghbazar, Dhaka – 1217, Bangladesh Ramarbagh, Kutubpur, Bangladesh 0189-214648, 0173-034617 (E.D) 0171-3001607 (D.G.M-Production), 0173- 011112 (Merchandising Manager) The project is easily accessible by road. The route has been clarified in the location map presented in the previous page. The mill is sponsored by M.S. Zaman. Gray knit fabric production (approximately) Dyed knitted fabric 22-24 ton/day (approximately) Factory Address: Fatullah, Narayangonj, Communication: Sponsors: Capacity: 8000 Kg/day Project cost: Cost of the project is approximately in Taka 250,00,00,000 7.00 acres Project area : 9 | P a g e

  10. S Chashara E W Narayanganj Location Of The MICRO FIBRE GROUP N Fatullah Shibo Market Ramarvag Micro Fibre Fatullah Fatullah Rail Stadium Tikatoli Sign Board Chittagong ZatraBari Kamolapur Gulistan railstation 10 | P a g e

  11. History of project development: It is a moment of rejoice to introduce Micro Fiber Group (MFG) to its clients and patrons. MFG believes whatever it has achieved; its credits should be directed toward its clients. Micro fibre group started their Textile business in 1998 by starting construction of the building for project setup. At 1stthey set up Garments project. In 1999 they went to production of fabric and dyeing with a dryer of 400 kg & 6 ton capacity boiler. As an ambition to expand the business they setup knitting section in 2000 & to fill the demand of knitting they setup as well as stenter, calendar, dewatering m/c, dryer for finishing. With the passage of time different type of m/c were brought to the mill to improve the quality & production. The mill is well oriented for knit composite project. Therefore, when many struggle to survive in post-MFA world; its business in fact enjoying a healthy growth. Moreover, having endless efforts to ensure internationally accepted employment practice, its clients recognize us as a partner to protect their value system and images among final consumers. 11 | P a g e

  12. Different departments: i. Knitting section  Circular  Flat ii. Dyeing section:  Knit dyeing iii. iv. v. vi. vii. viii. Garments section Costing & Finance Logistics Maintenance Planning section QC section Product mix: Types of raw materials processed here are- i. cotton- 100% combed or carded polyester-cotton blend (p/c or t/c), (65%pet+35% cotton) CVC (60% cotton+40% polyester) grey melange (85% cotton+15% viscose) Ecru melange (98% cotton+2% viscose or 99% cotton+1% viscose) ii. iii. iv. v. 12 | P a g e

  13. S ETP E W LAYOUT DESIGN N Midland Knitting Maintenanc e Laborator y Liberty Office M idl a n d & Garments Department Garments Midland Finishing Midland finishing Midland Micro Micro Dyeing Dyeing Finishing Office Cantee n Entrance Office Store Utilities Room Security Car parking Prayer Place Room Health Utilities Midland facilities Dyes & Room Dyeing Midland Office Room Chemicals Office Printing 13 | P a g e

  14. Physical Infrastructure: MICRO FIBRE GROUP Knittin g Maintena nce Dyeing Garment Admin Knit (admin) Knit (prod) Cost & finance Accounts Knit dyeing Prod QC Gmt(Ad min) Gmt (Prod) Clea ning Mechanica l Dept Utility Electric Dept Remark: Micro Fiber Group is a well established knit composite industry. The industry stands on industrial area of Ramarbagh, Narayangonj. It is a Group of Companies, . It is going to prove its own standard of product quality in world market as they know that 14 | P a g e

  15. their reputation depends on quality. It is a profitable project and contributes the economy of our country. CHAPTER -2 MANPOWER MANAGEMENT Organ gram of man-power administration MANAGING DIRECTOR EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR 15 | P a g e

  16. GENERAL MANAGER ASST. GENERAL MANAGER ASSISTANT PRODUCTION MANAGER MANAGER (LAB & QC) SENIOR PRODUCTION OFFICER OFFICER PRODUCTION OFFICER SENIOR OFFICER ASSISTANT PRODUCTION OFFICER SENIOR LAB ASSISTANT SENIOR SUPERVISOR LAB ASSISTANT SUPERVISOR LAB BOY ASSISTANT SUPERVISOR SENIOR OPERATOR OPERATOR ASSISTANT OPERATOR HELPER Management system: In Micro Fiber Group the management system is regular. employees are well skilled and are graduate in their respective profession. Shift change: The industry has two shift .Duration of every shift is 12 hours. Workers get one hour break time. Shift change depends on the work order and production. There is a supervisor in every shift who takes the working activities & understands his responsibilities from previous supervisor during shift change. 16 | P a g e

  17. Total Section Wise Man power Management system: Micro Fibre Group has sufficient number of skilled manpower working in different sections. A picture of manpower distribution with total manpower is given below: DEPARTMENT MANPOWER Knitting 445 Dyeing 560 Printing 138 Finishing 315 Garments 3587 Maintenance 40 Administration 23 Utility 20 Security 28 Total 5136 Responsibilities of S.P.O/P.O: The main job as well as main responsibility of a s.p.o is to control process. The responsibility of a s.p.o/p.o is to complete a batch in required time. Any fault or disturbance happens in a batch, the blame goes to s.p.o/p.o. The p.o should try to minimize overhead expenditures and also try to make a batch more profitable. In a word he is in charge of the floor & his responsibility is to keep moving the production smoothly. Job description of S.P.O/P.O 1. To give program slip according to daily production plan. 2. To follow up production process from raw materials to finished goods. 3. To match shade in connection with fabric quality according to buyer requirements. 4. To find out fabric faults as early as possible (before finishing), & take stes to recover it. 5. To rectify the finished fabric rejected from quality control department. 6. To coordinate with unit technical manager for achieving the target production. 17 | P a g e

  18. 7. To motivate supervisors and workers for achieving maximum production with minimum faults. 8. To check the daily production report. 9. To study dye & chemicals nature delivery by the manufacturer & apply them Correctly to the production to get best product. Remarks The manpower management system in Micro Fiber Group is well arranged. There are good number of textile engineers in the industry. but they are not adequate enough to undertake the huge production of the industry. Some more are expected to be enrolled there in the shortest possible time to meet up the growing need. The efficiency of the worker should be increased for more quality production. CHAPTER -03 RAW MATERIALS Micro Fiber Ltd. is a knit composite industry. In the industry raw materials for different section is different. As for example knitting uses yarn as raw material, Fabric processing department uses the knit fabrics, dyes and chemicals. Types of Raw Materials: Different type of raw materials are found like 1. Yarn 2. Grey Fabric 3. Dyes 4. Chemicals Order is usually obtain in the form of making complete garments grey fabric or yarn dyeing that is main raw material is fabric & yarn. Fabric is made in its own knitting section from different types of yarn according to requirement, but sometimes buyer may supplies this. 18 | P a g e

  19. Yarn: Following types of yarns are used to knit fabrics: 1. Cotton — 30 s/1, 80/2, 20/1, 60/2,34s/l, 26/1, 20/1, 18/1, 24/1 (Carded or combed.) 2. Filament —20/D, 24/D, 30/D, 40/D,75/D, 100/D, 150/D. 3. Polyester spun — 50/2 Ne, 20/2 Ne. 4. T/C —+30/1, T/C. 5. Viscose —26/1. 6. CVC (varying proportion) The count mentioned above was found during mill training. Sources: Yarn is collected from the fo1lowing sources: 1. 2. Delta spinning 3. Israk spinning mills 4. Delsy spinning mills 5. Techno spinning mills 6. Jamuna spinning mills 7. Malek spinning mills 8. Kader spinning mills Shohagpur spinning mills Price: Grey Fabrics: Not provided. Following types of grey fabrics are dyed: 1.Single jersey: - Single and double lacoste - Polo pique - Terry fleece - Engineering stripe 2. Single jersey with Lycra 3. Double jersey: - Rib - Interlock 4. Double jersey with Lycra 5. Flat bed : -Single Collar and Cuff -Design Collar and cuff Sources: The required grey fabric is produce in the industry. The required fabrics are supplied from Micro Fiber Ltd. 19 | P a g e

  20. Price: Price of grey fabrics depends upon the price of yarn and the making charge of the fabric. For example, in case of 30’s spun cotton yarn, the price of yarn is $3/kg and for single jersey fabric the knitting charge is $0.18. So the price of single jersey fabric is $3.18/kg. Chemicals: CHEMICAL NAME CHEMICAL NAME TRADE NAME TRADE NAME Bluton –BVB CAN Optical brightening Anticreasing agent SCF CL-225 Wetting agent Leveling agent SR FS Fixing agent Softener OEM SF Peroxide killer Antifoaming agent RLF-349 CBA Leveling agent Anticreasing agent SQ-117 TPA Sequestering agent Antifixing agent WCS EAS Softener Softener 2UD AW-501 Sequestering agent Soap RH SQ-114 Alkali Sequestering agent G.acid SQS Acetic acid Brightening agent PE-40 MC Silicon Wetting agent ER330 MKL Optical brightening Enzyme WRN BBU Optical brightening Flame retardant Flock BM InSA Dust remover Sequestering agent SR BUBZAM Optical brightening Fixing agent Commonly used dyes in fabric dyeing section in Micro fibre Ltd For light color: RR dyes Yellow RR i. ii. Red RR iii. Blue RR  Chemical formula of common chemicals used in textile dyeing: Water – H2O 20 | P a g e

  21. Hydrochloric acid - HCI Sulfuric acid –H2SO4 Phosphoric acid – H3PO4 Sodium chloride (common salt) - NaCl Sodium carbonate – Na2CO3 Sodium sulfate (glauber salt) – Na2SO4 Sodium bicarbonate – NaHCO3 Sodium hydroxide - NaOH Potassium hydroxide - KOH Sulfur dioxide – SO2 Tri sodium Phosphate – Na3PO4 Benzene – C6H6 Acetic acid - CH3COOH Oxalic acid - (COOH)2 Cellulose – C6H10O5 Starch - C6H10O5 Hydros (sodium hydrosulfite) – Na2S2O4 Bleaching powder- Ca(OCl)Cl Printing chemicals function: The functions of chemical used in printing process are given below  Urea: Hydroscoping agent, by using urea the steaming is finished within 5 to 10hours.  Resist salt: NaCl is penetrated by heating but resist salt is penetrated into fabric without heating.  Na2CO3: Fixing the dyes molecules properly.  Thickener: Thickener helps the past or chemical to be not sprayed on the fabric or not to be bleeding.  Increased paste viscosity.  Reduce screen pore radius. Price: Price of dyes & chemicals depend on the quality, type availability & requirement. For high quality product, better dye & chemical should be used though cost is high. Annual requirement: Annual requirement of dyes & chemical depend on the order of production but for various reasons such as improper weighting, carelessness of operators, hydrolysis of dyes, uneven process control, wrong recipe formulation, incorrect batching, improper storage facilities & for different unwanted expenditure increases dyes & chemicals requirement. Remarks: For smooth running of a factory uninterrupted supply of raw materials is very essential. As far as we saw the raw material control of MFG is good. 21 | P a g e

  22. CHAPTER-4 Knitting Section The process in which fabrics are produced by set of connected loops from a series of yarns is called knitting.   Warp knitting Weft knitting When fabric is produced by this method in weft direction then its called weft knitting & warp direction then its called warp knitting. Production Flow Chart of Knitting Section: Sample fabric Design analysis Machine selection Setting the machine for the specific design Sample Knitting Sample approval Bulk Production Grey fabric inspection 22 | P a g e

  23. Lay-out Plan of knitting Machineries : K S W E D H N I M C A J E F G B L A = Office of A.G.M (Knitting) B = Office of Production Officer 23 | P a g e

  24. C = Cloth inspection machine D = Re-conning machine E = Supervisor office & Knit Admin F = Flat bed knitting section G = Spare Cylinder room H = Stair I = Lift J = Store of Spare parts & equipments K = Fitter / Staff office L = Toilet M = Auto stripe Machine Section = Circular Knitting Machine (Single & Double Jersey) = Eyes marking or Floor marking Total Floor space of the knitting floor = 20,338.93 Sq.ft (approximately) In Micro Fibre Group the total number of knitting machine is 83 ( where Single jersey circular knitting machine is 47, Double jersey circular knitting machine is 14, Auto Stripe circular knitting machine is 5, And Flat Bed knitting machine is 17, total 83). But there has another knitting floor where other knitting machines are positioned. The space of 14862.19 Sq.ft for Circular knitting machines which are assembles in previous page.And in this lay out plan 40 No’s of Circular knitting machine are situated. One circular knitting machine with creel stand which required 262.44 sq.ft So, the number of 40 knitting machines required space is, = 262.44 sq.ft × 40 = 10497.6 Sq.ft The totally free space is = 14862.19 Sq.ft - 10497.6 Sq.ft = 4364.59 Sq. ft List of Single Jersey Circular knitting Machineries : Serial No Machine Brand Name Jiunn Long M/C Type S/J M/C Dia 22 M/C Gauge 24 M/C Feeder 66 F Origin 01 Taiwan 24 | P a g e

  25. 02 Jiunn Long S/J 22 24 66 F Taiwan 03 Jiunn Long S/J 23 24 69 F Taiwan 04 Jiunn Long S/J 23 24 69 F Taiwan 05 Jiunn Long S/J 24 24 72 F Taiwan 06 Jiunn Long S/J 24 24 72 F Taiwan 07 Jiunn Long S/J 25 24 75 F Taiwan 08 Jiunn Long S/J 25 24 75 F Taiwan 09 Jiunn Long S/J 25 24 75 F Taiwan 10 Jiunn Long S/J 25 24 75 F Taiwan 11 Jiunn Long S/J 26 24 78 F Taiwan 12 Jiunn Long S/J 26 24 78 F Taiwan 13 Jiunn Long S/J 26 24 78 F Taiwan 14 Jiunn Long S/J 26 24 78 F Taiwan 15 Jiunn Long S/J 28 24 84 F Taiwan 16 Jiunn Long S/J 28 24 84 F Taiwan 17 Jiunn Long S/J 32 24 96 F Taiwan 18 Jiunn Long S/J 34 24 102 F Taiwan 19 Jiunn Long S/J 36 24 108 F Taiwan 20 Jiunn Long S/J 34 24 102 F Taiwan 21 Jiunn Long S/J 40 24 120 F Taiwan 22 Jiunn Long S/J 38 24 114 F Taiwan List of Single Jersey Circular knitting Machineries : Serial No 23 Machine Brand Name Jiunn Long M/C Type S/J M/C Dia 36 M/C Gauge 24 M/C Feeder 108 F Origin Taiwan 24 Jiunn Long S/J 23 24 69 F Taiwan 25 Jiunn Long S/J 24 24 72 F Taiwan 26 Jiunn Long S/J 21 24 63 F Taiwan 25 | P a g e

  26. 27 Jiunn Long S/J 20 24 60 F Taiwan 28 Jiunn Long S/J 32 24 96 F Taiwan 29 Jiunn Long S/J 30 24 90 F Taiwan 30 Jiunn Long S/J 28 24 84 F Taiwan 31 Jiunn Long S/J 30 24 90 F Taiwan 32 Jiunn Long S/J 36 24 108 F Taiwan 33 Jiunn Long S/J 30 20 90 F Taiwan 34 Jiunn Long S/J 30 20 90 F Taiwan 35 Jiunn Long S/J 30 20 90 F Taiwan 36 Jiunn Long S/J 30 20 90 F Taiwan 37 Jiunn Long S/J 30 24 90 F Taiwan 38 Jiunn Long S/J 40 24 120 F Taiwan 39 Jiunn Long S/J 30 20 90 F Taiwan 40 Jiunn Long S/J 30 20 90 F Taiwan 41 Jiunn Long S/J 36 24 108 F Taiwan 42 Jiunn Long S/J 30 20 90 F Taiwan 43 Jiunn Long S/J 30 20 90 F Taiwan 44 Jiunn Long S/J 30 20 90 F Taiwan 45 Jiunn Long S/J 36 24 108 F Taiwan 46 Fukuhama S/J 30 24 90 F Taiwan 47 Fukuhama S/J 31 22 72 F Taiwan List of Double Jersey Circular knitting Machineries : Seri al No 01 Machine Brand Name Fabric type M/C Type M/C Dia M/C Gaug e 16 M/C Feeder Origin Falmac Interloc k Rib D/J 24 38 F Singap ore Singap ore Singap ore Singap ore 02 Falmac D/J 34 16 54 F 03 Falmac Rib D/J 30 16 48 F 04 Falmac Rib D/J 30 16 48 F 26 | P a g e

  27. 05 Hubter Rib D/J 38 18 80 F Taiwan 06 Hubter Rib D/J 40 18 84 F Taiwan 07 Hubter Rib D/J 20 16 32 F Taiwan 08 Hubter Rib D/J 30 16 48 F Taiwan 09 Fukahama Interloc k Interloc k Rib D/J 36 18 72 F Taiwan 10 Fukahama D/J 36 18 72 F Taiwan 11 Fukahama D/J 36 18 72 F Taiwan 12 Fukahama Rib D/J 34 18 72 F Taiwan 13 Fukahama Rib D/J 34 18 102 F Taiwan 14 Fukahama Interloc k D/J 28 20 84 F Taiwan List of Auto Stripe Circular knitting Machineries : Serial No 01 Machine Brand Name Fukuhara M/C Type S/J M/C Dia 30 M/C Gauge 24 M/C Feeder 48 Origin Japan 02 Fukuhara S/J 30 24 48 Japan 03 Fukuhara S/J 34 24 48 Japan 04 Fukuhara S/J 34 24 48 Japan 05 Fukuhara Rib/ 36 18 48 Japan Interlock List of Flat Bed knitting Machineries : Seri al Machine Name M/C Type M/C Bed M/C Gauge M/C Cares Origi n 27 | P a g e

  28. No Length 01 Around Star Around Star Around Star Around Star Around Star Around Star Around Star Around Star Around Star Around Star Around Star Around Star Around Star Around Star Around Star Around Star Around Star Computerized Flat Bed M/C Computerized Flat Bed M/C Computerized Flat Bed M/C Computerized Flat Bed M/C Computerized Flat Bed M/C Computerized Flat Bed M/C Computerized Flat Bed M/C Computerized Flat Bed M/C Computerized Flat Bed M/C Computerized Flat Bed M/C Computerized Flat Bed M/C Computerized Flat Bed M/C Computerized Flat Bed M/C Computerized Flat Bed M/C Computerized Flat Bed M/C Computerized Flat Bed M/C Computerized Flat Bed M/C 40 14 Single Cares Single Cares Single Cares Single Cares Single Cares Single Cares Single Cares Double Cares Double Cares Double Cares Double Cares Double Cares Double Cares Double Cares Double Cares Double Cares Double Cares Taiwa n Taiwa n Taiwa n Taiwa n Taiwa n Taiwa n Taiwa n Taiwa n Taiwa n Taiwa n Taiwa n Taiwa n Taiwa n Taiwa n Taiwa n Taiwa n Taiwa n 02 40 14 03 40 14 04 40 14 05 40 14 06 40 14 07 86 14 08 68 14 09 68 14 10 68 14 11 68 14 12 68 14 13 68 14 14 68 14 15 68 14 16 68 14 17 68 14 List of Cloth Inspection Machineries : Serial No 01 Machine Name Nos Brand Origin Grey Fabric Inspection Machine 02 Sets UZU® Thailand 28 | P a g e

  29. Machine Picture SINGLE JERSEY CIRCULER KNITTING MACHINE JIUNN LONG MACHINE CO. LTD. TAIWAN. Specification: Model: JLS Cyl. Dia: 30" Feeders: 90 F Gauge: 24 G Needles: 2256 T SINGLE JERSEY CIRCULER KNITTING MACHINE JIUNN LONG MACHINE CO. LTD. TAIWAN. Specification: Model: JLS Cyl. Dia: 30" Feeders: 90 F Gauge: 24 G Needles: 2256 T SINGLE JERSEY CIRCULER KNITTING MACHINE FUKAHAMA MACHINERY CO. LTD. YUANHSIEN, TAIWAN. Specification: Model: SH-JFA3 Cyl. Dia: 34" Feeders: 102 F Gauge: 24 G Mfg. Date: Sep. 2010 29 | P a g e

  30. FUKUHARA STRIPER MACHING PRECISION FUKUHARA WORKS,LTD. JAPAN. Specification: Gauge: 20/24 Feeders: 192 F Size: 34" Mfg. Date: March.2007 COMPUTERIZED FLAT KNITTING MACHINE AROUND STAR INTERNATIONAL CO. LTD. TAIWAN. Specification: Bed Length: 40" Gauge: 14 G Mfg. Date: 2008 UZU® FABRIC INSPECTION MACHINE AATPR INDUSTRY CO. LTD. THAILAND. Mfg. Date: April-2007 30 | P a g e

  31. Description of production process: Micro Fiber Ltd. Is capable of producing stripes of any width and enormous color. The engineering stripes machines are used for producing such fabrics. Except this feeder stripes are also produced. Single jersey fabrics and its derivatives like lacost, polo pique, terry fleece etc. are also produced. Rib and interlock fabrics and its derivatives such as 2x2, 3x3 etc. are also produced. Different fabrics can be produced by jacquard m/c by varying the tucking lengths and looping sequence.Collar and cuffs of any designs are produced here in the flat bed m/cs. The jacquard design can be computerized and transferred to the knitting m/c by floppy disks. The yarn that used in the body fabric is also used in producing collar and cuff. GSM: It is the critical parameter that is checked and controlled at different staged of processing the fabric after knitting to finishing. Fabric GSM can be controlled by the following ways: By varying the loop length by VDQ pulley. By varying the no. of loops by needle gauge setting. By using different count of yarn. The yarn count, in all cases, has prescribed by the buyers. So m/c setting is the only way to control the grey GSM. The final GSM in the finished fabric depend on the finishing treatments and parameters of finishing machineries. Fabric width: Fabric width can be controlled by changing cylinder diameter or by changing m/c. RPM: M/c rpm is adjusted with the lead time for production. When lead time is very short then rpm may increase at a certain level for definite count and strength of yarn. So it also depends on the yarn parameter and also with structure to be produced. Loop length: Loop length determines the fabric GSM. It can be controlled by changing the dia of VDQ pulley In Mayer & CIE m/c , it can be controlled digitally. No. of feeder or no. of cone: It depends on the urgency of production, available cone packages, color to be knit and structure of the fabric. Gauge: Needle gauge determines the no. of loops in a course which determines the GSM of fabric. Production calculation: 1. Production = no. of needle x no of feeder x RPM x stitch length/ yarn count 31 | P a g e

  32. Production per shift in KG at 100% efficiency RPM x no of feeder x no of needle x stitch length(mm) x 60 x 12 = 10 x 2.54 x 36 x 840 x 2.2046 x yarn count Ks X 590.5 2. Stitch length = Count (Ne) x GSM Where, Ks = knitting constant Count = linear density of yarn GSM = gm per square meter Another formulae is Stitch length = (Tex × Ks) / GSM Ks is a constant. Its value is different for different fabric structure and fabric type. Ks is calculated and estimated as below: Ks = (GSM x Stitch length) / Tex Fabric type Color Value of Ks Single jersey Average 19.55 Single lacoste Average 22.4 Double lacoste Average 22.75 Polo pique Average 25 Plain interlock Average 39.3 1 X 1 rib Light 24.5 1 X 1 rib Average 26.5 3. Production/shift in meter: Course / min cm .  Course /   cm   RPM No . of Feeder 60  12 Efficiency  Course / 100 32 | P a g e

  33. 4. Fabric width in meter: Total no . cm of wales   Wales / 100 Needles Total no . of knitting   Wales / cm 100 Fabric type Yarn count Stitch length Color D X G Finished dia Finished GSM Plain s/j 18s/1 2.94 White 26X24 30 inch 220-230 20s/1 24 s/1 26s/1 28s/1 30s/1 34s/1 40s/1 26s/1 24s/1 26s/1 26s/1 26s/1 36s/1 24s/1 24s/1 28s/1 34s/1 34s/1 40s/1 28s/1 26s/1 24s/1 20s/1 20/1+40D 24/1+40D 30/1+70D 30/1+40D 30/1+40D 18s/1 24s/1 26s/1 30s/1 2.98 2.68 2.66 2.70 2.68 2.40 2.44 2.50 2.75 2.45 2.55 2.65 2.65 2.95 2.90 2.40 2.60 2.70 2.76 2.87 3.25 3.50 3.25 3.10 2.90 2.90 2.98 2.80 3.00 2.64 2.60 2.50 White White White Avg Avg Avg Avg Avg Avg Avg Avg Avg Avg Avg Avg Avg Avg Avg Avg Avg Avg Avg Avg Avg Avg Avg Avg Avg Avg Avg Avg Avg 30X24 30X24 30X24 26X24 30X24 26X24 24X24 40X18 30X18 40X18 40X18 32X18 32X18 34X18 40X18 30X24 40X18 32X18 30X20 34X18 34X18 34X18 34X20 30X18 30X18 30X18 26X18 26X18 30X24 30X24 30X24 30X24 33.5 inch 32 inch 31 inch 25 inch 30 inch 24 inch 20 inch 41 inch 64 inch 40inch 47inch 32inch 33inch 32inch 38inch 38.5inch 23inch 20inch 35”T 32”T 31”T 31.5”T 55”(op) 18”T 18”T 18”T 18”T 18”T 46 inch 40 inch 36inch 33inch 200-210 175-185 160-170 150-160 130-140 125-135 100-110 240 235 245 235 230 170 220 225 232 190 185 160 260 205 285 260 390 320 320 240 240 245-255 210-215 200-210 180-190 1x1 Rib 2X1 L Rib 2X2 L/Rib Single lacost 33 | P a g e

  34. Following Counts are used to achieve the mentioned G.S.M: For S/J without'Lycra For S/J with Lycra Fabric G.S.M Yarn Count Fabric G.S.M 180-190 190-210 210-220 220-240 240-250 Yarn Count 34s 32s 30s 28s 26s 110-120 40ѕ -36s 120-130 36s-32s 130-140 32s-28s 140-150 28s 150-160 26s 170-210 24s For interlock without Lycra For Rib without Lycra: Fabric G.S.M 200-220 220-230 230-250 250-300 Yarn Count 34s 32s 30s 26s Fabric G.S.M 180-190 Yarn Count 36s-32s 190-200 200-210 210-220 30s 28s 26s For Lacoste without Lycra 220-250 24s 250-300 24s Fabric G.S.M Yarn Count 180-190 30s 190-210 28s 210-230 26s 230-250 26s Relation between yarn count, fabric type, stitch length and finished GSM: By the following three tables, we can summarize the above data: For Single jersey- FINISHED GSM COUNT FINISHED DIA 140 30/1 Machine dia=Finished dia 160 26/1 Machine dia+1=Finished dia Machine dia+2=Finished dia Machine dia+3=Finished dia Machine dia+5=Finished 180 24/1 200 20/1 220 18/1 34 | P a g e

  35. dia For 1X1 Rib Finished gsm Count Gauge Finished dia 150-200 30/1 18 Machine dia 210-220 28/1 18 Machine dia 220-230 26/1 18 Machine dia+1 240-250 24/1 18 Machine dia+1/2 280-300 20/1 18 Machine dia+2/3 For Plain Interlock- Finished gsm Count Gauge Finished dia 200 40/1 24 Machine dia 180 40/1 24 Machine dia+1 220-230 34/1 24 Machine dia+2 240-250 30/1 24 Machine dia+2/3 If the fabric is to be Enzyme washed, the stitch length should be kept (10%) less than the normal range. Because, enzyme wash reduces the total weight of the fabric by removing the floating fibre and hairy fibre. For light color, the finished GSM varies near about 15-20% from grey GSM For average color, the finished GSM varies 20-25% For dark color, grey GSM is kept less (i.e. the stitch-length is large) because take up% of dark color is more and the weight of dyed fabric will be increased. 35 | P a g e

  36. If the GSM varies 25-30%, it is not only necessary to control the VDQ pulley dia but also yarn tension & take up roller. Grey fabric introducing: Factors that should be considered for changing of fabric design on: i) ii) iii) iv) v) Cam arrangement changing. Needle butt setting & needle dropping. Using of different colors in selected feeder. Using of jacquard mechanism. Size of the loop shape Stitch Notation, Cam Arrangement & Needle Repeat Of Some Knitted Fabric: FABRIC NAME: SINGLE LACOST Stitch Notation:  = Knit stitch 1 = 1 Butt Needle         2 = 2 Butt Needle  = Tuck stitch     3 = 3 Butt Needle K = Knit cam     T = Tuck cam     Fig. Looping diagram Cam arrangement & Needle arrangement: i) Using two track cams: ▲ ▲ ▲ T ▲ 1 ▲ T ▲ ▲ ▲ 2 ii) Using three truck cams: 1 ▲ ▲ ▲ T ▲ 2 36 | P a g e 3

  37. ▲ T ▲ ▲ ▲ ▲ ▲ ▲ T ▲ FABRIC NAME: DOUBLE LACOST Stitch Notation:  = Knit stitch 1 = 1 Butt Needle         2 = 2 Butt Needle  = Tuck stitch     3 = 3 Butt Needle K = Knit cam         T = Tuck cam     Fig. Looping diagram Cam arrangement & Needle arrangement: i) Using two track cams: 1 ▲ ▲ ▲ ▲ T T 2 ▲ T T ▲ ▲ ▲ ii) Using three truck cams: 1 ▲ ▲ ▲ ▲ T T 2 ▲ T T ▲ ▲ ▲ 3 ▲ ▲ ▲ ▲ T T Fig.- Cam arrangement Fig.- Needle arrangement FABRIC NAME: SINGLE JERSEY Stitch Notation: 37 | P a g e  = Knit stitch 1 = 1 Butt Needle 2 = 2 Butt Needle K = Knit cam

  38.                    Fig. Looping diagram Cam arrangement & Needle arrangement: i) Using two track cams: 1 ▲ ▲ ▲ ▲ ▲ 2 ▲ ▲ ▲ ▲ ▲ Fig.- Cam arrangement Fabric inspection : Two ways of grey fabric inspection used to done by- a) Auto turning fabric inspection m/c. b) Varivide colour assessment cabinet –2 D-65, TL-84, TL-83, Florescent, UV.  Grey fabric faults : Following faults are found in the grey fabric: Problem Reason Remedy 1. Hole Broken needle head Change the needle 2. Missing yarn Missing of one end of double yarn Careful observation and instant stop when fault found 3. Needle line Bent needle latch Replace the needle 4. Thick & thin yarn Yarn fault Replace the yarn cone to a more uniform yarn cone 5. Slubs Yarn fault Replace the yarn cone to a more uniform yarn cone 38 | P a g e

  39. 6. Drop needle Needle fail to receive the yarn while knitting, needle missing Reset the needle 7. Barrie mark/patta Irregular tension of take down roller Adjust the take down tension or synchronize the take down speed with knitting 8. Pin hole Due to missing stiches or loop Concentrate on needle and latch 9. Oil line Improper lubrication Proper lubrication 10. Fly contact Fly coming fro the adjacent m/c Separate one m/c from others 11. Oil stain Dirty m/c and improper handling of fabric Proper lubrication and clean m/c Remarks : The Lay out plan of the machineries is well Micro Fiber Ltd. arranged. There are good number of textile machineries in the industry. They are adequate enough to take the huge production of the industry. The efficiency of the worker should be increased for more quality production. Chapter-05 Wet processing Section Fabric Dyeing Section: Production flow chart for fabric Dyeing: Grey fabric inspection Batching Pretreatment Dyeing Dewatering Dewatering (Tube form) Dewatering(Open form) 39 | P a g e

  40. Tension less dryer Slitting Calendaring Stentering Compacting Inspection Inspection Packing Packing Delivery Delivery Process sequence: For Cotton Dyeing: Pretreatment Enzyme (anti pilling) Dyeing Soaping Softening Pretreatment: Two types of pretreatment are done in Micro Fibre Ltd. 1. Scouring-Bleaching 2. Bio-Scouring (Bio polishing/ Enzyme treatment) 40 | P a g e

  41. Scouring-Bleaching: Pretreatment program: (scouring ,bleaching and enzyme) Light color: M:L=1:10 Fill water Fabric load SCF (0.25g/l)+2UD (0.25g/l) ACN+CBA (0.25+0.25g/l) ( Dosing 10mins) Temp=60oc and run=20min Drain Fill water SCF+InSA(0.65+0.65g/l) +ACN+CBA (1.25+1.25g/l) (Dosing 10mins at room temp) Caustic Dosing at 40oc (1.8g/l) Drain Temp 70oc Raise temp. 80oc and run 10 mins Peroxide +stab (1.75+0.22g/l) Temp=98oc and Run=50-60mins OEM ( 0.3 g/l) dosing 20 minutes Cooling at 80oc Drain Green acid( 0.5 g/l) 41 | P a g e Fill water

  42. Fill water Hot wash (95oc X 10mins) Medium/deep color: M:L=1:8 Fill water Fabric load SCF (0.17g/l) ACN+CBA (0.425+0.425g/l) ( Dosing 10mins) Temp=60oc and run=20min Drain Fill water SCF+InSA(0.552+0.637g/l) +ACN+CBA (0.637+0.637g/l) (Dosing 10mins at room temp) Caustic Dosing at 40oc (1.70g/l) Temp 70oc Peroxide +stab (1.70+0.212g/l) Temp=98oc and Run=50-60mins Cooling at 80oc Drain Drain Fill water Hot wash (95oc X 10mins) Raise temp. 80oc and run 10 mins Fill water G. acid(0.697g/l) OEM ( 0.3 g/l) dosing 20 minutes 42 | P a g e

  43. Bio-Scouring: Process description of Bio-Scouring is same as normal pretreatment process. But in Bio- Scouring process, we use only one auxiliary (MA-stab XLC), where in normal pretreatment process ,we use more than one auxiliary. Enzyme Treatment: Process Description of ENZYME TREATMENT: Light color: M:L=1:10 Or, Medium/deep color: M:L=1:8 Water fill Green acid (0.4g/l)(Check PH) MKL (0.3% owf) Temp 55oc and Run 60mins Drain Ready for dyeing Dyeing: Normaly for knit dyeing, there are many kinds of dyeing procedure such as Iso thermal process, Critical migration process, Exhaust method etc. In Micro Fibre they use Exhaust method for knit dyeing. Dyeing program for Disperse Dyes: Fabric treated with oxalic acid at 70°C for 20min 43 | P a g e

  44. Rinse for 5 min pH is controlled at 4.0-4.2 Dyeing at 130°C temp for 40-50 min Hot wash for 5 min Reduction cleaning 80-90°C temp for 30 min Neutralization/Hot wash Softener at 60°C temp for 20 min Drain the bath Unload the fabric Re-dyeing Process: When shade is not matched then fabric is treated again in dyeing machine for shade matching is known as re-dyeing. Generally, re-dyeing is done if the shade is deeper than the target shade. It may occur when the fabrics absorb one or two colors more or less. One re-dyeing process is described below. - - - - - - - - Drain the let off solution Hot wash at 700-800C Acid wash at 600-700C(600for light shade & 700for deep shade). Soda ash washes at 900-1000C for 60mins to reduce the depth of shade. Acid wash at 600C. Addition to required dyestuffs. Salt addition. Soda ash addition. 44 | P a g e

  45. Other operations are same as previous described dyeing operations. Stripping process: Recipe: Add water Antifixing agent (TPA)= 3.0g/l Fabric load A.Acid (G.Acid)= 3.0g/l TPA+G.ACID Wetting agent(SCF)= 0.2g/l Temp=90oC run=20min Hydrose= 4.0g/l Drain Caustic= 3.0g/l Fill water SCF+NaOH Half scouring recipe: Temp=98oC run=30min SCF=0.26g/l Cooling at 80OC InSA=0.6g/l Hydrose ACN+CBA= 0.26+0.26g/l Temp=98oC run=60min Stab= 0.088g/l Drain Caustic= 0.72g/l Hot wash 50% H2O2=0.7g/l Half scouring G.acid= 1.0g/l Temp=98oC run=35-50min OEM=0.12g/l Dyeing After Treatment Of All Program: For light color For Deep / Medium color 45 | P a g e

  46. C Neutralizer=0.425g/l Temp=60c-65c Run=20min Hot Wash C Neutralizer=0.425g/l-0.552g/l Temp=60c-65c Run=20min Hot Wash (AW-501=0.17g/l) Temp=80c-90c Hot Wash 90Oc- run 10min (AW-501=0.255-0.425g/) FS(10% Solution)=3-4g/l Temp=50Oc-For light color Temp=60Oc –For deep color PH=4.0-4.5 Run =20min Fixing agent =0.425g/l Temp=50oc-60oc Run=20min PH=5.0-5.5 FS(10%solution)=3-4g/l Temp=60oc run=20min PH=4.0-4.5 Temp=50c-60c Run=20min After dyeing for neutralization: For white (without enzyme) For white (with enzyme) For light color For medium color For deep color 46 | P a g e

  47. PH=4.5- 4.8(By using A.Acid) Temp 55oc Run=60min A.Acid=1.5g /l Temp 65oc Run=20min C.Neutralizer= 0.425g/l Temp 63-65oc Run=20min C.Neutralizer= 0.425-0.552g/l Temp 63-65oc Run=20min C.Neutralizer= 0.552g/l Temp 63-65oc Run=20min For fixing: For medium color For deep color SR=0.425-0.85g/l Temp 50-60oc Run=20min PH=5.0-5.5(By using C.neu) SR=1.275-1.7g/l Temp 50-60oc Run=20min PH=5.0-5.5(By using C.neu) Softener solution(10% solution): For white For light color For medium/deep color WCS(10%Soln)=2.55- 3.4owf Temp 60oc Run=20min PH=4.0-4.5(By using A.Acid) FS(10%Soln)=2.55- 3.4owf Temp 50oc Run=20min PH=4.0-4.5(By using C.neu) FS(10%Soln)=2.55- 3.4owf Temp 60oc Run=20min PH=4.0-4.5(By using C.neu) Common textile auxlliaries used in dyeing: Acid - The chemical compounds that dissolve in water and provide H+(proton). It changes the color of litmas paper from blue to red. Strong acids - completely ionized in water; For example: HClO4, Hl, HBr, HCl, HNOs, H2SO4, H3PO4 Weak acids - partial ionized in water; For example: HF, H2S, HCN, HC2H3O2and most organic acids. 47 | P a g e

  48. Alkalis - The chemicaL compound that dissolve in water and provide 0H-. It changes the color of litmas paper from red to blue. Strong alkalis - completely ionized in water; For example: NaOH, KOH, LiOH, Mg(OH)2most metallic hydroxides Weak alkalis - partial ionized in water; For example: NH4OH and most organic alkalis Buffer - lt is a saturated solution of acid-salt or alkali-salt mixture. lt resists the change of pH on addition of acid or alkali. Usually it is used to control the any bath solution. Buffer solutions are solutions containing mixtures of a weak acid or base and a salt of that acid or base. For exampre, the mixture of acetic acid and sodium acetate, which dissociates as: CH3COOH CH3COO-+ H+ CH3COONa CHs COO-+ Na+ Oxidizing agent - The chemical compound which provide oxygen during chemical reaction and converting to oxide, They gain electrons in a redox chemical reaction, for example, O3, H2O2, Ca0Cl2. Reducing agent - The chemical compound which losses electron during chemical reaction. lt reduces other substances chemically, especially by donating an electron or electrons, for example, Hydrose (Na2S2O4), Rongalite C. Surfactants - Surfactants or surface-active agents act in solid-liquid, solid-gas, or liquid-gas interfaces and reduces the interfacial tension. ln textile wet processing it works in between solid-liquid interface and reduce the surface tension of liquid. lt has a versatile application in textile industries especially in textile coloration, for example, Wetting agent, Detergent, Lubricant, Foaming agent, Anti-foaming agent, Leveling agent, Dispersing agent. Wetting agent - lt accelerates the wetability of material in solution; thus helps to easy penetration of chemicals into substrate. Usually it is used in scouring, bleaching and dyeing processes. lt is available in market in form of clear or yellowish liquid. Detergent - Detergents are one kind of surface active agents but the reverse is not always true. The surfactants which have detergency power and the number of carbon in aliphatic chain are not less than 9. Usually it is used in textile to clean the materials by removing undesirable substances. These products are either soaps or synthetic detergents. Lubricant - The chemical compounds use to prevent contact between solid surfaces in relative motion in order to reduce friction, wear, overheating, and rusting. They are very good coolants, provide the appropriate range of viscosities, and are thermally stable. Anti-foaming agent - Anti-foaming agents are another type of surfactants which are able to prevent or reduce foam. Usually, anti-foaming agents are used in dyeing bath and in printing paste to hinder foam generation. Excess foam generation can create adverse effect in processing and product. Anti-creasing agent - Usually used in dye bath or in finishing stage to prevent creasing of fabric or garments. 48 | P a g e

  49. Anti-pilling agent - Some man-made and blended fibre fabrics can easily form pills in their surface. Thus it reduces the aesthetic value of the fabric or garment. Anti-pilling agents are used to prevent such kind of pills formation during wearing of cloth. Leveling agent - Leveling agent is used in textile coloration process to achieve uniform dyeing over the whole substrate by controlling the rate of dyeing. Generally it is a non-ionic surfactants type compound either fibre substantive or dye substantive. lt is available in market in liquid form. Dispersing agent - usually it is used in disperse and vat dyeing process helps to distribute the dye molecules in dye bath. it is also help to penetrate the dye molecules into the substrate. lt is available in market in powder form. Retarding agent - The chemical compound that are able to retard or control the dye uptake inside of the fibre .Using retarders is very common in acrylic dyeing with cationic dyes. Carrier - Carriers are relatively small organic substances that usually have affinity for polyester. lt acts as a catalyst to accelerate the dye penetration into the fibe in disperse dyeing process. Chemical formula of common chemicals used in textile dyeing: Water – H2O Hydrochloric acid - HCI Sulfuric acid –H2SO4 Phosphoric acid – H3PO4 Sodium chloride (common salt) - NaCl Sodium carbonate – Na2CO3 Sodium sulfate (glauber salt) – Na2SO4 Sodium bicarbonate – NaHCO3 Sodium hydroxide - NaOH Potassium hydroxide - KOH Sulfur dioxide – SO2 Tri sodium Phosphate – Na3PO4 Benzene – C6H6 Acetic acid - CH3COOH Oxalic acid - (COOH)2 Cellulose – C6H10O5 Starch - C6H10O5 Hydros (sodium hydrosulfite) – Na2S2O4 Bleaching powder- Ca(OCl)Cl 49 | P a g e

  50. Problems Encountered In Dyeing: Uneven Dyeing   1. It can be caused due to rapid addition of dyes and chemicals. For this purpose the dosing of soda ash should be maintained properly. 2. Pressure difference. 3. Over loading in the m/c. 4. Yarn lot mixing. 5. Improper control of temperature. 6. Less amount of leveling agent. 7. Improper pretreatment. Uneven Shade in Rope to Rope  1. Improper rope length in each chamber. 2. Improper fabric flow speed in each nozzle. Off Shade  1. Improper M: L ratio. 2. Lower amount of auxiliaries. 3. Improper mixing of dyestuffs. Dye Spots   This is most common fault caused by operator not correctly mixing and thoroughly dissolving dyestuffs in the right amount of water. Batch to Batch Shade Variation   If any of parameters of dyeing are changed then it will produce problems in batch to batch consistency. In order to avoid this defect the following steps should be followed- 1. Maintain the same liquor ratio. 2.Check that the fabric has the same dye affinity. 3. Use the same standard program procedures for each batch.  4. Making sure that the operators add the right bach of chemicals at the same time & temperature in the process. 5. Check the water supply daily especially ph, hardness & Na2CO3content. Crease Mark   Crease marks are produced due to the lower concentration of anti creasing agent and improper cooling rate (defective cooling gradient). This is encountered by increasing the concentration of anti creasing agent and proper adjustment of cooling rate. Running Marks   Running marks are frequently related to the material construction and are caused by poor opening of the fabric rope. 1. Reducing the machine load and running at a slightly higher nozzle pressure, or using the next largest available nozzle size, may also help. 2. Either pre setting or pre relaxation of the fabric before dyeing can avoid this problem. 3. Running and crack marks can also be a result of incorrect process procedures. A higher fabric speed, combined with slower rates of rinse and cooling will often correct the problem. 4. Care should be taken to check that bath draining temperatures are not very high especially viscose blends are involved. 5. Shock cooling of static material will also cause crack marks. 50 | P a g e

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