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Industrial attachment of fakhruddin textile mills limited

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Industrial attachment of fakhruddin textile mills limited

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  1. INDUSTRIAL TRAINING Course Code: Tex -4036 INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT INDUSTRIAL TRAINING INDUSTRIAL TRAINING Course Code: Tex -4036 Course Code: Tex -4036 FAKHRUDDIN TEXTILE MILLS LIMITED FAKHRUDDIN TEXTILE MILLS LIMITED FAKHRUDDIN TEXTILE MILLS LIMITED Page | 1

  2. Chapter-1 Chapter-1 Chapter-1 Introduction Introduction Introduction Introduction Introduction Introduction Page | 2

  3. The textile and clothing (T&C) industries provide the single source of economic growth in Bangladesh's rapidly developing economy. Exports of textiles and garments are the principal source of foreign exchange earnings. By 2002 exports of textiles, clothing, and ready-made garments (RMG) accounted for 77% of Bangladesh’s total merchandise exports. By 2013, about 4 million people, mostly women, worked in Bangladesh's $19 billion-a-year industry, export- oriented ready-made garment (RMG) industry. Bangladesh is second only to China, the world's second-largest apparel exporter of western brands. Sixty percent of the export contracts of western brands are with European buyers and about forty percent with American buyers. Only 5% of textile factories are owned by foreign investors, with most of the production being controlled by local investors. It can be emphasized that among the entire textile sector knit composite is the most fast growing sector in Bangladesh because of smaller investment requirement, greater backward linkage facility and higher profit. We are very fortunate at such type of present situation we have completed our industrial training at a reputed 100% export oriented knit composite factory “FAKHRUDDIN TEXTILE MILLS LIMITED.” oriented knit composite factory “FAKHRUDDIN TEXTILE MILLS LIMITED.” oriented knit composite factory “FAKHRUDDIN TEXTILE MILLS LIMITED.” The textile and clothing (T&C) industries provide the single source of economic growth in Bangladesh's rapidly developing economy. Exports of textiles and garments are the principal source of foreign exchange earnings. By 2002 exports of textiles, clothing, and ready-made garments (RMG) accounted for 77% of Bangladesh’s total merchandise exports. By 2013, about 4 million people, mostly women, worked in Bangladesh's $19 billion-a-year industry, export- oriented ready-made garment (RMG) industry. Bangladesh is second only to China, the world's second-largest apparel exporter of western brands. Sixty percent of the export contracts of western brands are with European buyers and about forty percent with American buyers. Only 5% of textile factories are owned by foreign investors, with most of the production being controlled by local investors. It can be emphasized that among the entire textile sector knit composite is the most fast growing sector in Bangladesh because of smaller investment requirement, greater backward linkage facility and higher profit. We are very fortunate at such type of present situation we have completed our industrial training at a reputed 100% export type of present situation we have completed our industrial training at a reputed 100% export The textile and clothing (T&C) industries provide the single source of economic growth in Bangladesh's rapidly developing economy. Exports of textiles and garments are the principal source of foreign exchange earnings. By 2002 exports of textiles, clothing, and ready-made garments (RMG) accounted for 77% of Bangladesh’s total merchandise exports. By 2013, about 4 million people, mostly women, worked in Bangladesh's $19 billion-a-year industry, export- oriented ready-made garment (RMG) industry. Bangladesh is second only to China, the world's second-largest apparel exporter of western brands. Sixty percent of the export contracts of western brands are with European buyers and about forty percent with American buyers. Only 5% of textile factories are owned by foreign investors, with most of the production being controlled by local investors. It can be emphasized that among the entire textile sector knit composite is the most fast growing sector in Bangladesh because of smaller investment requirement, greater backward linkage facility and higher profit. We are very fortunate at such “FAKHRUDDIN TEXTILE MILLS LIMITED” is fully concerned about knitting, knit dyeing and knit garments which vertically setup well planned textile unit in 2005. From the beginning of production it has earned lot of reputation due to its quality product and approval of several multinational inspection firm i.e. Oeko Tex, SGS, WRAP as well as renowned buyer i.e. MARKS & SPENCER, S.OLIVER. At “FAKHRUDDIN TEXTILE MILLS LIMITED” we have completed eight weeks long industrial training on knitting, knit dyeing and finishing. During entire training period we had tried as much as possible to keep ourselves at actual working condition by implementation our knowledge, thoughts and ideas and this report is mainly a little effort to express such experiences gathered in training. effort to express such experiences gathered in training. effort to express such experiences gathered in training. “FAKHRUDDIN TEXTILE MILLS LIMITED” is fully concerned about knitting, knit dyeing and knit garments which vertically setup well planned textile unit in 2005. From the beginning of production it has earned lot of reputation due to its quality product and approval of several multinational inspection firm i.e. Oeko Tex, SGS, WRAP as well as renowned buyer i.e. MARKS & SPENCER, S.OLIVER. At “FAKHRUDDIN TEXTILE MILLS LIMITED” we have completed eight weeks long industrial training on knitting, knit dyeing and finishing. During entire training period we had tried as much as possible to keep ourselves at actual working condition by implementation our knowledge, thoughts and ideas and this report is mainly a little condition by implementation our knowledge, thoughts and ideas and this report is mainly a little “FAKHRUDDIN TEXTILE MILLS LIMITED” is fully concerned about knitting, knit dyeing and knit garments which vertically setup well planned textile unit in 2005. From the beginning of production it has earned lot of reputation due to its quality product and approval of several multinational inspection firm i.e. Oeko Tex, SGS, WRAP as well as renowned buyer i.e. MARKS & SPENCER, S.OLIVER. At “FAKHRUDDIN TEXTILE MILLS LIMITED” we have completed eight weeks long industrial training on knitting, knit dyeing and finishing. During entire training period we had tried as much as possible to keep ourselves at actual working Page | 3

  4. 1.1. Profile of Fakhruddin Textile Mills Ltd.: Primary Profile FAKHRUDDIN TEXTILE MILLS LTD. Company Name : 678 Ordinary Member 09.03.2003 BKMEA Membership Number : Membership Type : Year Of Registration : General Profile Private Limited Company Fakhruddin Textile Mills Ltd is a 100% export oriented knit composite mill 2005 2005 Sreepur, Gazipur 1036/1 Ghorghoria master bari, Kewa, Sreepur, Gazipur 235/A, Tejgaon Industrial area,Dhaka Urmi Group Asif Ashraf  100% Cotton  100% Polyester  100% Viscose  95% Cotton 5% Lycra  95% Polyester 5% Lycra  95% Viscose 5% Lycra  60% Cotton 40% Polyester  48% Cotton 48% Modal 4% Lycra  Nylon Status : Type : Year Of Establishment : Year Of Starting Production : Location : Factory Address : Head Office : Sponsors : Owner : Raw materials : Different Departments - 2 Knitting section - Inspection a) Knitting section : b) Dyeing section : - Batch section - Dyeing lab - Dyeing section - Quality control - Finishing c) Garments section : - Cutting - Sewing - R.N.D. / Sample - Finishing & Packing Page | 4

  5. - Quality control - I.E.N. & Planning - Store d ) Merchandising & Marketing : - Electrical - Mechanical e) Maintenance section : f) Store section : - Security department - HRD - Procurement - Finance & accounting - Personnel administration Supporting Departments : Total Manpower : Major customers :        Marks & Spencer (M&S) S. Oliver Auchan Vert Toray Japan Triton Bengal Tex Page | 5

  6. 1.2. Site layout : 1.2. Site layout : 1.2. Site layout : W W W S S S Entrance Entrance Entrance Security, Garments 1&2 Garments 1&2 Garments 1&2 Security, Security, Medical, Medical, Medical, Mosque, Packaging Packaging Packaging Mosque, Mosque, Administration, Canteen Dyeing sec. ETP Power house Canteen Dyeing sec. ETP Power house Canteen Dyeing sec. ETP Power house Administration, Administration, Knitting section, Car park Knitting section, Car park Knitting section, Car park 1.3. Location of Fakhruddin Textile Mills Ltd. : 1.3. Location of Fakhruddin Textile Mills Ltd. : 1.3. Location of Fakhruddin Textile Mills Ltd. : Page | 6

  7. Chapter-2 Chapter-2 Chapter-2 Manpower Manpower MANAGEMENT MANAGEMENT Manpower Manpower MANAGEMENT MANAGEMENT Manpower Manpower MANAGEMENT MANAGEMENT Page | 7

  8. 2.1. Organogram: Managing Director Director Chief Operating officer, Administration AGM- Accounts & Purchase Quality Manager GM- Production DGM- Commerc ial Manager- Stores Manager - Compliance Sr. Manager- Admin, HR & Security Quality Controller Knit Manager Dyeing Manager Factory Manager Work study Manager Quality Auditor Knit officer/ In- charge Production Manager Cutting Manager Finishing Manager Quality Inspector Knit Operator, Knit Asst. APM/ Floor In- charge Cutting In-charge Finishing Supervisor Supervisors & line In-charge Cutting Supervisor Poly/iron/ Packer, finishing asst. Operat or & Helper Cutter/ Maker man, Cut asst. Page | 8

  9. 2.2. Management System:  Buyer sample is sent to G.M.  Matching is done by lab in charge.  Sample is prepared by asst. dyeing master.  Sample is resent to the buyer for approval.  Approved sample is returned and taken as standard. sample for bulk production.  Asst. dyeing master gives responsibilities to production officer  Then production officer, with the supervisors start bulk production  On-line and off-line quality check is done by lab in charge and asst. dyeing master.  After dyeing finishing in charge controls the finishing process with the supervision of production officer  After finishing, the material is checked by asst. dyeing master  Finally G.M. checks the result with asst. dyeing master and decision is taken for delivery 2.3. Shift Change: Three shifts (A, B, C): each of 8 hrs  A Shift: 7 A.M to 2 P.M.  B Shift: 2 P.M. to 10 P.M  C Shift: 10 P.M. to 7 A.M  General Shift: 9 A.M to 5 P.M. Page | 9

  10. 2.4. Overall Man Power of FTML : Departments Knitting Garments-1 Garments-2 Sample Project Implement Printing Fabric dyeing Human resources Planning Security Maintenance Cutting Store Accounts & Finance Lab & QC Quality Assurance Finishing Total No. Of Employees 240 566 349 35 12 118 135 10 10 32 22 110 21 11 10 21 43 1750 Page | 10

  11. Chapter-3 Chapter-3 Chapter-3 Knitting section Knitting section Knitting section Knitting section Knitting section Knitting section Page | 11

  12. 3.1. Raw Materials Used In Knitting: Cotton Viscose Polyamide Polyester Spandex Grey mélange (C-90%, V-10%) Ecru mélange (C-85 %, V-15%) Anthra mélange (C-60%, V-40%) PC(65% Polyester 35% Cotton) CVC(40%Polyester & 60% Cotton) 18s,20s,24s,26s,28s,30s,32s,34s,40s 18s,20s,24s,26s,28s,30s,3s,34s,40s 20D, 40D,75D, 100D 75D, 100D 20D, 40D 24s,26s 24s,26s,28s 24s,26s,28s 24s,26s,2s,30s 24s,26s,28s,30s 3.2. Sources Of Yarn For Knitting : Yarn Count 28/1 30/1 40/1 40/1 28/1 40/1 40/1 36/1 32/1 32/1 34/1 24/1 24/1 28/1 16/1 26/1 24/1 24/1 20/1 16/1 75/72 24/1 28/1 32/1 30/1 27/1 Yarn Type Combed Cotton Carded slub Polyester-Viscose Carded slub Carded slub Combed Cotton CVC Combed Cotton Grey Mélange Combed Cotton Organic Cotton Combed Cotton Combed Cotton Grey Mélange Grey Mélange Carded slub Carded slub Carded slub Carded slub Polyester-Cotton Polyester Grey Mélange Carded slub Viscose Carded slub Combed Cotton Brand Name NRG Thermax SQR Bangol Thermax NRG NRG AA Thermax Thermax Nahar AA NRG Thermax Thermax Thermax UniTex Bangol Anwara SQR Thermax Thermax Kamal Liberty Techno NRG Page | 12

  13. 3.3 Product Mix : # Single Jersey # Double Jersey 1. Single Jersey (plain) 1. 1×1 Rib 2. Polo pique 2. 2×1 Rib 3. Single lacoste 3. Interlock 4. Double lacoste 5. Fleece 3.4 Knitting Machine: Fakhruddin Textile Mills Ltd. is well equipped modern export oriented industry. It has high quality machinery with large production. There are 2 types of machines in this industry. These are:-  Circular knitting machine  Single jersey machine  Double jersey machine  Flat bed machine (cuff & collar) Machine at a Glance: Machine type Circular knitting machine Machine name Total no. Single jersey Double jersey Collar, Cuff 53 11 10 Flat knitting machine Page | 13

  14. Circular Knitting Machines: M/c No. M/c Type 1,2,3 S/J 4,5,6 S/J 7,8,9 S/J 10,11,12 S/J 13 S/J 14 S/J 15 S/J 16 S/J 17 S/J 18 S/J 19 Rib 20* . 21 Rib 22 Rib 23,24 S/J 25,26 S/J 27,28 S/J 29 Rib 30 Rib 31 Interlock 32 Fleece 33 Honey comb 34 S/J 35 Interlock 36 S/J 37 Interlock 38 Interlock 39 S/J 40 S/J 41 Fleece 42 Fleece 43,44 Philip 45,47 Fleece 46 Philip 48 S/J 49,50 S/J 51,52,53, 54,55 56,57 S/J 58,59 S/J M/c Dia (inch) 28 30 32 34 36 36 36 34 34 38 40 . 42 42 24 26 28 40 36 32 32 30 M/c Gauge 24 24 24 24 24 24 18 24 18 24 18 . 18 18 24 24 24 18 18 18 24 24 No. of Feeder 84 90 96 102 108 72 72 72 72 90 80 . 84 84 72 78 84 80 72 64 64 60 No. of Needle 2112 2256 2400 2544 2412 2712 2040 2544 1920 2856 2256 . 2376 2376 1800 1944 2112 2256 1992 1800 2400 2256 Brand Origin JIUNN LONG JIUNN LONG JIUNN LONG JIUNN LONG JIUNN LONG JIUNN LONG JIUNN LONG JIUNN LONG JIUNN LONG KEUMYONG PAILUNG . PAILUNG KEUMYONG PAILUNG PAILUNG JIUNN LONG PAILUNG PAILUNG PAILUNG PAILUNG PAILUNG Taiwan Taiwan Taiwan Taiwan Taiwan Taiwan Taiwan Taiwan Taiwan Korea Taiwan . Taiwan Korea Taiwan Taiwan Taiwan Taiwan Taiwan Taiwan Taiwan Taiwan 40 38 36 36 38 30 30 30 26 30 32 32 34 24 30 24 24 24 24 24 24 24 20 24 20 24 24 24 24 24 120 114 108 108 102 90 90 46 78 46 96 96 102 72 90 3000 2856 2712 2712 2544 2256 2220 1872 1944 1872 2400 2400 2568 1812 2256 KEUMYONG KEUMYONG KEUMYONG PAILUNG PAILUNG JIUNNLONG PAOLO ORIZIO PAILUNG PAILUNG PAILUNG PAILUNG PAILUNG KEUMYONG JIUNN LONG JIUNN LONG Korea Korea Korea Taiwan Taiwan Taiwan Italy Taiwan Taiwan Taiwan Taiwan Taiwan Korea Taiwan Taiwan S/J 38 28 24 24 114 84 2880 2112 JIUNN LONG JIUNN LONG Taiwan Taiwan Page | 14

  15. 60,61,62 63,64** *under repair **newly arrived under setup S/J Stripe 26 24 78 1968 JIUNN LONG Taiwan Flat Bed Knitting Machines: M/C No. Brand Name Origin Model M/C Type Gauge No. of Feeder 14 1, 2 MATSUYA Japan 100 Fully automatic flat knitting m/c Computerized Flat knitting m/c Fully automatic flat knitting m/c 6 3, 4, 5, 6 JY-LEH INDVSRIAL MATSUYA Taiwan JY-303 6 14 7, 8, 9, 10 Japan M-17283 6 14 Important Parts of Knitting Machine and Their Functions: 1. Needle: The needle is the primary knitting element .Needle is a thin metal bar. Function: It is used to produce a loop. 2. Sinker: The sinker is the second primary knitting element .It is a thin metal plate. Function:   Holding down knocking over 3. Knitting Cam: Cam is the devices which convert rotary machine drive in to a suitable reciprocation action for the needle. i.Knit Cam Function: To produce knit loop. ii.Tuck Cam Function: To produce tuck loop. iii.Miss Cam Function: To produce miss loop. Page | 15

  16. 4. Cam Box Function: To set cam on the slider. 5. Quality Adjustments Pulleys Function: It is used to control GSM. 6. Memminger Positive Feeder Function: It is use to apply positive feed of the yarn. 7. Lycra Feeder Device Function: It is used to apply positive feed of the spandex. 3.5 Knitting Process: Knitting is the process to develop a fabric by intermeshing of loops when commercially a knit fabric is produced it contain it some specification i.e. structure/design, GSM, dia/width that determine the characteristics of a finished fabric. As Fakhruddin Textile Mills. is an export oriented industry its knitting section has to follow some knitting parameters strongly to meet those specifications .In this segment we have tried to give a basic concept on the implementation of knitting process. Process Flow of Knitting: Yarn in cone Form Feeding the yarn Cone on the Creel Feeding the yarn in the feeder via positive feeding Arrangement Tension Device Knitting Withdraw the Rolled Fabric and Weighting Inspection Numbering Page | 16

  17. 3.6 Production Parameter: 1. Diameter of the machine 2. RPM of the machine 3. No. of feeders 4. Machine gauge 5. Efficiency of production 3.7 Quality Assurance System: After collecting fabric rolls from different machine it becomes necessary to ensure require quality. Fakhruddin Textile Mills Ltd. maintains ISO: 9001 standard in case of quality. Therefore it ensures quality through four point system, where fabric are inspected and give against respective defect.  4-Point System  Maximum point for any fault is 4.  One meter fabric should not mark over-4 point system whatever the faults are.  Rejected if faults point/100 yards is 40 or over.  4- Point Grading System Fault Length Penalty point 3 inches or less 3-6 inches 6-9 inches Over 9 inches 1 2 3 4  Body and Rib Inspection Faults Response Loop/Drop stitch Wrong design Slub Hole Thick/thin place Star mark Pin holes Barre Needle mark Sinker mark Birds eye Oil drop Contamination &fly Give 4 point Reject Give 1 point Give 4 point Give 1 point Give 4 point/1 point(for small point) Give 4 point Reject Major needle line is rejected Major sinker mark is rejected Give 1 point Give 4 point Give 1 point Page | 17

  18.  Collar & Cuff Inspection Faults Response Wrong ply Hole Missing Yarn Wrong tipping Wrong tube Reject Reject Reject Reject Reject 3.8 Fabric Faults and Their Causes: There are various type of faults is occurred in the section of knitting .But during our training we found the following types of faults. 1. Thick Yarn Course Causes:   Lot mixing Negligence of worker etc. 2. Hole Causes:      Bad needle Knots in yarn Take down mechanism too tight High tension on the yarn Bad yarn etc. 3. Missing Yarn Causes:   Yarn breakage Faulty stop motion etc. 4. Lycra Out Causes:   Incorrect position of yarn guide Improper sinker ring setting etc. Page | 18

  19. 5. Barre/Patta Causes:    Uneven dial &cylinder relationship Lot missing Yarn count mix etc. 6. Sinker Mark Causes:    Old sinker Sinker mixing Dust in sinker ring etc. 7. Needle Line Causes:    Bad needle Needle mixing Dust in needle track etc. 8. Drop Stitch Causes:  Bad needle latch. 3.9 Ways of Increasing Production: Production of knitting can be increased by the following ways:  By increasing machine speed  By increasing the number of feeder  By using higher machine gauge  By introducing auto motion 3.10 Production Calculation: Production/shift in kg at 100% efficiency: No. of feeder x No of needle x Gauge x S.L.(mm) x 60 x 8 = 1000 x 840 x 2.2046 x Yarn count (Ne) Page | 19

  20. 3.11 Maintenance in the Knitting Section: To get maximum efficiency is it necessary to ensure smooth running of a machine and at Fakhruddin textile mills ltd it is carried out by m/c servicing. At this case main objectives are:     To ensure required quality of the fabric To minimize the fabric fault Removal of dust from the machine Cleaning of different parts of the machine Turning is a process to turn the fabric roll and it is done those fabric which are not similar in both face and back side .The main objectives of turning is: - To protect the side of the fabric from any dust, spot, staining and friction of machine Page | 20

  21. Chapter-4 Chapter-4 Chapter-4 Dyeing section Dyeing section Dyeing section Dyeing section Dyeing section Dyeing section Page | 21

  22. 4.1 Machine Description of Dyeing Section: M/c No. Brand Type Origin Capacity (Kg) M:L Max. Temp (0C) Max. Pressure (bar) 3 1, 2 DILMENLER DMS 15HT- sample dyeing m/c DMS 50HT- sample dyeing m/c DMS 11HT Jumbo Jet Flow DMS 11HT Jumbo Jet Flow DMS 11HT Jumbo Jet Flow DMS 11HT Jumbo Jet Flow DMS 11HT Jumbo Jet Flow DMS 11HT Jumbo Jet Flow TGURV- NUV-6-900 Turkey 15 1:6 135 3 DILMENLER Turkey 50 1:6 135 3 4 DILMENLER Turkey 175 1:6 135 3 5 DILMENLER Turkey 225 1:6 135 3 6 DILMENLER Turkey 450 1:6 135 3 7 DILMENLER Turkey 675 1:6 135 3 8 DILMENLER Turkey 350 1:6 135 3 9 DILMENLER Turkey 1050 1:6 135 2.5 10 TONGGENG China 900 1:!0 98 Low 11 TONGGENG TGURV- NUV-6-600 China 600 1:10 98 Low 12 TONGGENG TGURV- NUV-6-300 China 300 1:10 98 Low 13 DILMENLER DMS 11HT Jumbo Jet Flow DMS 11HT Jumbo Jet Türkiye 1400 1:6 135 2.5 16 THEN Germany 1500 1:4 140 3 Page | 22

  23. Flow 17 18 19 J & X EA (BD) THEN China Bangladesh Germany 100 25 1600 1:8 98 100 140 Low Low 3 DMS 11HT Jumbo Jet Flow DMS 11HT Jumbo Jet Flow 1:4 20 THEN Germany 1600 1:4 140 3 21 Guandong Heshan Hongfa DILMENLER China 10 1:10 140 High 22 DMS 11HT Jumbo Jet Flow DMS 11HT Jumbo Jet Flow Turkey 175 1:6 135 2.5 23 DILMENLER Turkey 350 1:6 135 2.5 24 25 27 28 29 EA (BD) EA (BD) EA (BD) EA (BD) EA (BD) Bangladesh Bangladesh Bangladesh Bangladesh Bangladesh 15 50 15 15 25 100 100 100 100 100 Low Low Low Low Low ***M/c No. 14, 15, 26 were removed from the floor. Page | 23

  24. 4.2 Chemical & Auxiliaries Used in Fakhruddin Textile Mills: S/L No. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 Name of Chemical Gradprep Hooley Nearpon BWLF Geis QSE Optavon 4UD-QSE Lubrifil TFV- P Geistabe RS Danilube P Gyszyme PR Caustic Soda (NaOH) Hydrogen Peroxide A. Acid Glauber Salt GSS Gradtech RDLB Corscolor ADM Setavin RCO SkiantanNW Hydroprotec COMP B NearcandPC 15 Biopolish B 600N Retro cell PLEX Jinsoft ECO ECA Softener SA 1000 Jintexalate SQ 117CA Benlon 5020 Benlon 3525 Benlon 3526 Aristan PSR Nuva TTC Grosoft SCA Zetesal 2000 Croscolor OZ Croscolor PLD Croscolor PCD Finscour OSP Setavin PA/SANZ Antimussol UDF Setasel PNT/LSP Zetesall NR/NRF Oleophobol CO Bilsoft 200 Common Name Detergent Detergent Sequestering agent Sequestering agent Anti-creasing agent Stabilizer Anti-creasing agent Peroxide Killer Alkali Oxidizing agent Acid Salt Multifunctional agent Leveling agent Leveling agent Leveling agent Soaping agent Softener (for stenter) Viscose Scouring agent Enzyme Enzyme Anti-creasing agent Softener (color) Sequestering agent Color softener Silicon softener Silicon softener Polyester Softener Stenter softener Silicon softener Fixing agent Polyester leveling Polyester leveling Polyester buffer Detergent Leveling Antifoaming Leveling Fixing Agent Stenter softening White softener Page | 24

  25. 4.3 Dyes: The following dyes are used: 1. Reactive 2. Disperse S/L No. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 Name of Dyes Remazol RedRR Remazol Yellow RR Remazol Blue RR Remazol Orange RR Remazol Yellow 3GL Remazol T/Blue G Remazol BR Blue RSP Bemacron Rubine SERDL Bemacron orange SERDL Bemacron Red SERDL Bemacron Yellow SERDL Bemacron Blue SERDL Bemacron Turqse SERDL Bemacron Black SERDL Bemacron Navy SERDL Bemacron Carmine HP3R Bemacron Blue HP3R Solazol T/Blue SPVG Solacion Red Solacion Orange Solazol Orange SP3R Manufacturer Dystar Dystar Dystar Dystar Dystar Dystar Dystar Bezema Bezema Bezema Bezema Bezema Bezema Bezema Bezema Bezema Bezema SOLAR FINE CHEMICAL CO. SOLAR FINE CHEMICAL CO. SOLAR FINE CHEMICAL CO. SOLAR FINE CHEMICAL CO. Page | 25

  26. 4.4 Process Flow Chart: Production Flow Chart For 100% Cotton Fabric: Fabric Load Water Level - As Required Raise temp to 60°C Add detergent, stabilizer, sequestering agent, H2O2 Add Caustic at 70°C - Dosing time 10 min Raise temp to 105°C and run 40 min (pH - 10.5-1 1) Cooling 80°C Rinse Drain Fill with water Peroxide killer inject & temperature rise 80°C & run l5 min Rinse Drain Water Level - As required Add Acetic Acid for neutralization Add enzyme at 55°C and run 45 min (pH - 4.5 to 5.5) Temp rise 80°C Run l0 min Drain Rinse for l0 min Water Level - As required Add Leveling agent and run l0 min at 55°C (pH 5.5 to 6) Page | 26

  27. Add salt run l0 min Add colour and dosing time 10 min Machine Run time - 20 min Add Soda at 55°C - Dosing time 45 min Machine Run & after 20 min Sample Cutting & Shade Matching Run the machine as required to match the shade If shade match Drain (Bath Drop) Rinse until unfixed dyes are removed Add Acetic Acid for neutralization Drain Add Soaping chemical & run 30 min at 80°C Add Fixing agent at 40°C and run for 10 min Drain Add Water Cold Wash Unload Fabric Page | 27

  28. Production Flow Chart For 100% Polyester Fabric: Fabric Load Water Level - As Required Hot treatment at 80°C 20 min Wash at 30°C 10 min Drain Add Acid to adjust pH Leveling at 60°C 10 min (pH 4 - 4.5) Color dosing at 60°C 20 min (Run time 20 min) Raise the temperature 1.5°C /min =100°C Raise the temperature 1°C /min =130°C Color steaming at 130°for 60 min Dropped the temperature 1°C/min =100°C Dropped the temperature 1.5°C /min =80°C Sample cutting for shade matching If the shade is OK Reduction clearing For dark shade at 90°C 30min Cooling Wash Drain Softener dozing at 50°C Unloading Page | 28

  29. Production Flow Chart For 100% Viscose Fabric: Fabric Load Water Level - As Required Raise temp to 70°C Add detergent, stabilizer, sequestering agent, H2O2 Add Caustic at 98°C - Dosing time 40 min Raise temp, to 105°C and run 40 min (pH - 10.5-11) Cooling 80°C Rinse Drain Fill with water Peroxide killer inject & temperature rise 80°C & run l5 min Rinse Drain Water Level - As required Add Acetic Acid for neutralization Add enzyme at 55°C and run 45 min (pH - 4.5 to 5.5) Temp rise 80°C Run l0 min Drain Rinse for l0 min Water Level - As required Add Leveling agent and run l0 min at 55°C (pH 5.5 to 6) Page | 29

  30. Add salt run l0 min Add color and dosing time 10 min Machine Run time - 20 min Add Soda at 55°C - Dosing time 45 min Machine Run & after 20 min Sample Cutting & Shade Matching Run the machine as required to match the shade If shade match Drain (Bath Drop) Rinse until unfixed dyes are removed Add Acetic Acid for neutralization Drain Add Soaping chemical & run 30 min at 80°C Add Fixing agent at 40°C and run for 10 min Drain Add Water Cold Wash Unload Fabric Page | 30

  31. 4.5 Different Problem and Remedies in Wet Processing of Knit Fabric: Problem Uneven dyeing in rope Possible Cause Possible remedies - It can be due to fast addition dyes/ chemicals - Check dyestuff dissolution is proper and uniform dosing in machine. - Control rope speed - Use suitable leveling agent to improve dye migration -Ensure proper dissolution of dyestuff and filter through fine cloth. -Linear/progressive dosing of alkali as per dyestuff class used Dye spots - Improper dissolution of dyestuff - Inadequate salt solubility of the dyestuff - Metal ion sensitivity causing precipitation of dye metal complex. - Due to poor migration of dyestuff Tailing effect on critical shades like khaki/olive/grey - Use of suitable leveling agent - Proper selection of tri-chromatic combination of dyestuff Poor washing off fastness -Improper fixation of dyestuff - Improper washing off of hydrolyzed dyestuff - Use of poor quality salt and hard water in washing off - Use suitable soaping agent to wash out unfixed hydrolyzed dyestuff - Use of soft water during washing off Page | 31

  32. Chapter-5 Chapter-5 Chapter-5 Finishing section Finishing section Finishing section Finishing section Finishing section Finishing section Page | 32

  33. 5.1 Process Flow of Finishing Section: The finishing section is divided into two lines and each line have own process flow: Fabric unload Finishing section Open line Tube line Slitting Dewatering Stentering Drying Compacting by open compactor Compacting by tube compactor Inspection Inspection Delivery Delivery 5.2 Machine Description of Finishing Section: Machine Name Slitting Machine Dewatering Machine Stenter Brand Bianco Bianco Sun-Super BRUCNER Ferraro Fab-con Kuang Dilmelner Dong num Hsing Chebg Origin Italy Italy Korea Germany Italy USA Taiwan Turkey Korea Taiwan Qty 02 01 02 01 02 01 03 01 03 01 17 Open Compactor m/c Tube Compactor m/c Brushing m/c Dryer M/C Air Turning m/c Bag Sewing m/c Total Page | 33

  34. Fabric Slitting Machine: Machine Name: Slitting Machine for open Fabric. Brand name: BIANCO Country of Origin: Italy Year of Manufacturing: 2004 Speed of Machine: Maximum 90m/min Machine Capacity: 10 Ton Tubular Fabric Slitting Machine / Dewatering Machine: Machine Name: Dewatering Machine for Tube Fabric. Brand name: BIANCO Country of Origin: Italy Year of Manufacturing: 2006 Speed of Machine: Maximum 80 m/min Machine Capacity: 8 Ton Stenter Machine 1: Machine Name: Stentering machine Machine Type: SST-6GP (V1.1) Year of Manufacturing: 2004 Brand Name: SUN SUPERS Speed: 100 m/min Country of Origin: SOUTH KOREA Width Range: 2700 cm Chamber of Flame: 06 Stenter Machine 2: Machine Name: Stentering machine Type: VN-SFP-26/8-999 Year of Manufacturing: 2009 Brand Name: BRUCNER Country of Origin: GERMANY Width Range: 2800 cm Chamber of Flame: 08 Tube Compacting Machine: Machine Name: Compacting machine Machine Type: SST-6GP(V1.1) Year of Manufacturing: 2006 Brand Name: FABCON Speed: 75 m/min Country of Origin: U.S.A. Capacity of Machine: 10 Ton Page | 34

  35. Open width Compacting Machine: Machine Name: Compacting machine Year of Manufacturing: 2006 Brand Name: FERRARO Speed: 80 m/min Country of Origin: Italy Capacity of Machine: 8 Ton Dryer Machine: Machine Name: Dryer machine Brand Name: DILMENLER Country of Origin: Turkiye Year of Manufacturing: 2006 Speed: 50 m/min Capacity: 12 Ton Power Consumption: 139.25 KW Working Width: 2400 mm 5.3 Process Description on Tube Line Finishing: 1. Dewatering The removal process of excess water through squeezing by means of pressure(applied by two cylinders). Function of the Machine:  Use to remove excess water after pretreatment and dyeing  Delivered fabric is crease free state  It can control the diameter of fabric and GSM and shrinkage by over feeding mechanism  To impart soft finish to the fabric by using required softener. Important Parts:  Stretches (to control width)  Over feeding wheels (to control GSM)  De –watering device (to deliver the fabric roll in untwisted form)  Folding device (to deliver the fabric in folded form)  Squeezing roller  Air injector to form balloon Controlling Parameter:  Overfeed  Speed  Padder pressure  Stretch Page | 35

  36. 2. Drying Drying is defined as a process where the liquid portion of the solution is evaporated from the fabric. Function of the machine in drying:  To control GSM  To control the shrinkage  To prepare for next subsequent process  To dry tubular fabric without tension Important parts: - Over feed roller - Conveyor belt - Heating chamber(3) - Blower - Burner - Exhaust fan - Filter net - Folding device - Vibrator Controlling Parameter: Temperature: It depends on GSM and shade % of a fabric. Normally following temperature is maintained depending on the shade% - Dark shade: 140-170°C - Medium shade: 130-150°C - Light/ white shade: 110-130°C 2. Speed: Normally 6-18 m/min speed is maintained. 3. Overfeed (%): It depends on construction of fabric. - Plain/single Jersey: 18-20% - Rib: 14-16% Checking Parameter: 1. Shade checking: After running the machine the shade is checked with approved swatch at delivery side. 2. Width checking: Required width is measured at delivery side. 3. GSM Checking Page | 36

  37. 3. Compacting Compacting is a method whereby the course loops are compressed upon themselves. The fabric is steamed to add moisture and then introduced to the compacting zone. The compaction mechanism, along with heat and moisture, forces the length stitches(courses) to be compacted. Function of compactor  Shrinkage control  GSM control  Width control Important parts  Over feed control  Steam sprayer  Stretcher  Cylinder  Blanket  Teflon covers Controlling parameter 1. Temperature 2. Speed 3. Blanket pressure 4. Overfeed 5.4 Process Description on Open Line Finishing: Slitting Slitting is a process that is applied for cutting the tubular fabric through the intended break wales line on length wise direction. Function of slitting machine: 1. De-twisting 2. Extraction 3. Slitting 4. Opening 5. Plaiting Important parts:  Squeezing roller (to remove water)  Stretcher (to control width)  Over feeding wheels(to control GSM)  De-twisting device (to deliver the fabric roll in untwisted form)  Plaiting device (to deliver the fabric in folded form) Page | 37

  38. Controlling parameter:  Pressure  Speed Checking parameter  Cutting line check  Faults check Stentering Function:  Drying  Heat setting  Width control  Chemical finishing  GSM control Different parts/ zone at stenter frame: 1. Feed zone: fabric feeding. 2. Chemical padding zone: Here fabric is washed or padded with required chemical and excess materials are removed by squeezing. 3. Over feed roller: Depending on GSM over feeding or under feeding is given by over feed roller. 4. Selvedge detector: It detects the selvedge, prevent the curling and adjust the rail for proper gripping of the fabric in the pin arrangement. 5. Brush roller: For attaching the fabric with the pin of the chain. 6. Drying zone: Each chamber of stenter contains two burners, two blowers, two ducting line, nozzle, and suction fan attached with suction line. The burner produces hot flue gases which through the ducting line by the help of blower. There are nozzles placed above and below the rail. When the fabric is passed through the rail then hot air is sprayed to the above and bellows the fabric with the help of nozzle. The hot air is circulating in the chamber and moisture of fabric which is evaporated ; leave the chamber with the help of suction fan through the ducting line. Temperature of each chamber can control automatically by controlling the intensity of burner. 7. Cooling zone 8. Delivery zone Page | 38

  39. Controlling points: a) Temperature b) Over feed c) Fabric width setting d) Speed Compacting Function: 1. Shrinkage control 2. Width control 3. GSM control Important parts:  Overfeed roller  Blanket  Steam sprayers  Cylinder  Teflon covers Controlling parameter:  Overfeeding  Blanket pressure  Steam pressure  Temperature  Speed Page | 39

  40. Chapter-6 Chapter-6 Chapter-6 Quality assurance Quality assurance Quality assurance Quality assurance Quality assurance Quality assurance Page | 40

  41. In textile industry; quality is assured in different stage of production. From the raw materials to the finished goods, quality is assured by the quality control department. Quality is assured in fiber selection, yarn production, fabric manufacturing, wet processing and apparel manufacturing. Also, quality is checked for dyestuff and chemicals which is used in dyeing, printing and finishing. Most of the times, quality control department gives a quality pass certificate before export. In this section we have tried to provide activities of quality assurance at Fakhruddin textile mill Ltd. 6.1 Quality Control Quality control is a process to ensure quality product by following standard inspection and testing system. At this case Fakhruddin Textile mill Ltd. maintain following standard to ensure quality product:    ISO standard AATCC standard M&S standard The quality assurance system at Fakhruddin Textile mill Ltd. is maintained by two ways: 1. Online Quality control 2. Offline Quality control Online Quality control: The functions of Online Quality control are: a) Raw material control - Selection of materials and supplies - Maintaining proper specification of materials - Checking /Inspection of incoming materials b) Process control - Proper controlling of process parameter I .e .time ,temperature ,speed, pressure, addition, or discharge of dyes, chemicals liquors. - Checking /monitoring of process parameter. - Ensuring require quality at every process c) Finished goods Inspection The finished goods inspection is carried out through four point grading system. Offline quality control: Offline quality control generally comprises different tests of final product so that it is possible to identify whether it pass against the norms given by buyer. Page | 41

  42. The following test are generally done- - GSM test - Shrinkage test - Spirality test - Shade check - Wash fastness test - Fastness to water - Perspiratipn test - Rubbing fastness test - Durability test - Dimensional stability Page | 42

  43. Chapter-7 Chapter-7 Chapter-7 Lab Lab- -dip unit dip unit Lab Lab- -dip unit dip unit Lab Lab- -dip unit dip unit Page | 43

  44. 7.1. Function/Activities:    Color measurement, recipe formulation &correction by computer color matching system To carry out lab dyeing Maximization of “right-first- time” dyeing and minimization of re-dyeing, color addition/ topping. 7.2. Computerized Color Matching System: In case of color measurement, recipe formulation & correction Fakhruddin Textile mill Ltd. use following instrument and program: Spectrophotometer Specification: Brand Name: Spectrophotometer SF600 CT PLUS Made by: Data color Institution Wavelength range: 400-700 nm Wavelength interval: 10 nm Dual beam Light source: Pulsed xenon lamps Functions: Measure the reflectance of colored sample in at least 16 wavelength in the visible spectral region 400-700 nm. The wavelengths are measured at 10 nm interval. Uses: The reflectance value of a sample can be used to calculate the tri-stimulus values of that sample under the given illuminant. Program   Data color software M & S standard software Function:     Colorant recipe formulation and correction Color difference assessment in various light source Predict mesmerism ,cost , and fastness of each recipe Give the decision of pass/fail of a dyed sample by assessing color difference at tolerance limit. Personal computer  All the CCM system is controlled & observed by this computer Printer It give hard copy of formulated recipe , color difference , reflectance value /curve Page | 44

  45. Lab dyeing process In case of lab dyeing Fakhruddin Textile mills Ltd. have developed following programs depending on the shade % and type of substrate which is always perform on 10 gm of sample. Dyeing program for light shade Dyeing program for medium shade. Dyeing program for dark shade. Dyeing program for turquoise color Dyeing program for polyester. 7.1 Material Testing: Fakhruddin Textile Mills Ltd. has well equipped quality control lab. There lab is recognize by Marks & Spencer. They follow Marks & Spencer testing procedure for testing fabric and raw materials. There are two types of materials are tested in Fakhruddin Textile Mills Ltd. laboratory for the purpose of quality control. This are- A. Fabric testing B. Raw materials testing A. Fabric testing: To control the quality of the fabric two types of tests are mainly done- 1. Physical test 2. Chemical test or color fastness test. 1. Physical test: - G.S.M - Spirality test - Shrinkage test - Durability test - Level wash test - Garments durability test - Print durability test 2. Chemical test / color fastness test: - Color fastness to water - Color fastness to wash - Color fastness to rubbing - Color fastness to perspiration Page | 45

  46. B. Raw material testing: a. Water b. Glauber’s salt c. Acetic Acid d. Caustic soda e. Soda ash f. Hydrogen per oxide : pH & Hardness test : Purity test : Strength test : Strength test : Strength test : Strength test 7.4 List of the Test Performed in the Dyeing Laboratory: Name of The Test Purpose Method Color Fastness test to Wash washing. Color Fastness test to Perspiration against perspiration Color Fastness test to Water against hot and cold water Color Fastness test to Crocking against rubbing Color Fastness test to Light against light Dimensional Stability To check the Dimensional Stability after finishing. Torque To determine the Spirality Bursting To determine the bursting strength of a finished fabric Pilling To determine the pilling property of a finished fabric To check color fastness after ISO 105 C03 To check color fastness ISO E04:1994 To check color fastness ISO E01:1991 ISO E08 AATCC-08 ISO-105 X12 AATCC-16 To check color fastness To check color fastness AATCC-135/150 AATCC-179 ASTM-D3786 ASTM-D3512 AATCC-18000 ISO-3000 Page | 46

  47. Color Fastness Test to Wash (ISO 105 C03): Test Specimen: 1) Colored Sample: Type: Fabric Size: 10cmx40cm 2) Multi-fiber Fabric: Type: DW Size: 10cmx4cm Recipe: Soap: 5g/L Soda ash: 2g/L Temperature: 600C Time: 30 Minute M:L :1:50 Color Fastness Test to Perspiration (ISO E04:1994): Test Specimen: 1) Colored Sample: Type: Fabric, Size: 10cm x 4cm 2) Multi-fiber Fabric: Type: DW, Size: 10cm x 4cm Recipe: Chemicals Conditions Acidic 0.5 gm Alkaline 0.5 gm l-histadine monohydrochloride monohydrate NaCl Di-sodium hydrogen orthophosphate dehydrate Distilled water pH 5 gm 2.2 gm 5 gm 2.5 gm 1000 ml 5.5 1000 ml 8.0 Page | 47

  48. Color Fastness Test To Water (ISO 105-E01:1991) Cold: Test Specimen: 1) Colored Sample: Type: Fabric Size: 10cm x 40cm 2) Multi-fiber Fabric: Type: DW Size: 10cm x 4cm Recipe: Immersion: Distilled Water : 250ml Temperature: Room Temperature Time: 15Minute Pressure: Pressure: 12.5 Kpa Temperature: 370C Time: 4 hours Color Fastness Test To Water (ISO 105-E08) Hot: Test Specimen: 1) Colored Sample: Type: Fabric Size: 10cm x 4cm 2) Multi-fibre Fabric: Type: DW Size: 10cmx4cm Recipe: 1) M:L : 1:50 2) pH: 6 3) Temperature: 68-720C 4) Time: 30 Minutes Page | 48

  49. Color Fastness Test O Crocking (ISO 105 X 12): Test Specimen: 1. Colored Sample: Type: Fabric Size: 14cm x 5cm 2. Rubbing Cloth: Size: 5cm X 5cm Properties: Desized, scoured, bleached, mercerized but not finished. Apparatus: I. Crock Meter Manufacturer: James H. Heal Origin: England II. Grey Scale for staining Grey Scale for Shade Change Spirality Test / Skewness Change In Fabric & Garments Twist Resulting From Automatic Home Laundering (AATCC-179): PRINCIPLE: Change in skewness in fabric or twist in garment specimens resulting from procedures typical of home laundering practices is measured using benchmarks applied to the specimens before laundering. Apparatus & Materials Used: 1. Indelible ink marking pen 2. Right triangle, L-square or marking template 3. Tape or rule marked in mili-meters, tenths of an inch or similar increments. 4. Conditioning or drying racks with pull-out screens or perforated shelves. 5. Automatic washing machine. 6. AATCC standard reference Detergent. 7. Automatic tumble dryer. 8. Facilities for drip drying & line drying. 9. Digital imaging system. Page | 49

  50. Chapter-8 Maintenance management Maintenance management Page | 50

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