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sewing Thread

sewing thread

sheshir
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sewing Thread

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  1. SEWING THREAD

  2. Fibre Classification Natural Manmade Vegetable Animal Mineral Regenerated Synthetics cotton wool asbestos rayon Inorganic Organic glass polypropylene polyvinyl polyamide polyester

  3. Natural Fibres - Cotton Advantages ƒ Works great for overdyeing ƒ Can withstand heat Disadvantages ƒ Low tenacity ƒ If you need strength, you must increase the thread thickness ƒ Does not sew well on high speed sewing machines ƒ Price Application ƒ Garment Overdyeing ƒ Feminine Products ƒ Tea Bag String

  4. Synthetic Fibres - Spun Polyester Man-made fibre manufactured to replicate the feel of 100% cotton. Advantages Applications ƒ low shrinkage ideal for polyester blends ƒ Blouses, skirts and casual shirts ƒ resistant to sunlight and chemicals ƒ T- shirts with interlock weave ƒ economical alternative for lightweight ƒ Children's apparels fabrics ƒ Sleepwear and Medium-range fleece ƒ Non-lustre logo embroidery

  5. Synthetic Fibres - Corespun Corespun threads combine the physical properties of a synthetic polyester filament (strength, elongation, low shrinkage) with the aesthetic properties of a staple cotton or polyester wrap (softness, appearance, heat protection). Corespun threads have the potential to increase machine productivity by up to 20% over staple spun polyester. Applications Advantages ƒ All Apparel ƒ High seam strength (Lingerie to jeans) ƒ High speed multi-directional sewing ƒ Furniture ƒ Helps to contain and eliminate many ƒ Home Furnishings puckering problems

  6. Core threads are made by wrapping a staple Core threads are made by wrapping a staple polyester or cotton wrapper around a polyester or cotton wrapper around a continuous filament bundle of polyester fibers continuous filament bundle of polyester fibers during spin-ning, and then plying these yarns during spin-ning, and then plying these yarns into a sewing thread. into a sewing thread. Core threads for the toughest sewing Core threads for the toughest sewing applications from sewing fine blouses that are applications from sewing fine blouses that are susceptible to seam puckering ... to denim susceptible to seam puckering ... to denim products that will be stone-washed or sand products that will be stone-washed or sand blasted. blasted. Brands: Brands: D-Core - cotton wrapped polyester core cotton wrapped polyester core Perma Core - polyester wrapped polyester core polyester wrapped polyester core Wrapper Wrapper 40% 40% Core Core 60% 60%

  7. Benefits: • 40 to 50% stronger than spun polyester threads the same size • Superior Sewability on both manual and automatic machines with minimum interruptions - fewer restitched seams • Allows the use of smaller diameter threads to minimize Seam Puckering or Needle cutting • Reduced Open-Seams and Seam Failures • Higher initial price compared to spun polyester

  8. If the thread will not fall apart but maintains its strength, then it is a Corespun thread construction. Un-twist the singles yarn. If the thread falls apart, it is a Spun thread construction. Un-twist the thread and separate out a singles yarn. Wrapper Wrapper 40% 40% Core Core 60% 60% CORE Singles Yarn Singles Yarn SPUN 2 Ply 2 Ply

  9. Continuous filament – Textured Texturing is the process where continuous filament fibres are entangled by various mechanical methods which impart softness and bulk. Market Terminology Applications ƒ Fluff thread ƒ Active wear ƒ Bulky thread ƒ Lingerie, tee shirts, underwear ƒ Wooly thread ƒ Fleece wear ƒ Over lock and Coverseams

  10. Thread Substrates Poly/Cot Core spun D Core Poly/Poly Core spun Perma Core Staple spun polyester Perma Spun C.F. Poly TerylB C.F. Poly – Trilobal Stylo C.F. Poly – Textured Wildcat C.F. Poly – Microfilament Textured Permasoft Cotton - mercerized Anecot

  11. Applications by Substrate  Corespun ƒ Cotton wrapped polyester core used for sewing jeans, chinos, etc. ƒ Polyester wrapped polyester core used for sewing everything from intimate apparel to jeans.  Spun Polyester made from 100% polyester staple fibres also used for most apparel applications.  Textured Polyester used primarily for overedge and coverstitch operations.  Air Entangled Polyester is made from 100% continuous polyester filaments that have been entangled using high pressure air. Generally not a plied construction.Used in some jeans serging operations.  Continuous Filament Nylon or Polyester used for sewing leather goods, footwear,upholstered furniture, sporting goods, luggage, etc.

  12. There is NOT One Perfect Thread for All Seaming Operations … There is NOT One Perfect Thread for All Seaming Operations … However There Is A Perfect Thread for A Specific Sewing However There Is A Perfect Thread for A Specific Sewing Application! Application! “For every sewing requirement!”

  13. Yarn Yarn counting counting system system

  14. Yarn Count Systems Fixed length Fixed weight Decitex Number English Number metric Denier Tex Higher the number the finer the thread. Higher the number the coarser the thread. D’tex: 50 70 100 400 Cotton counts: Ne 60/2 Ne 50/2 Ne 40/2 Ne 20/4 Metric counts: Nm 80/2 Nm 20/3 Denier: 120d/2 150d 200d 300d Tex: 18 24 40 105 270 Denier- grams per 9,000 metres Tex- grams per 1,000 metres Decitex (D;tex)- grams per 10,000 metres Cotton Count- number of 840 hanks in 1 pound Metric - number of hanks in 1,000 metres/kilograms

  15. Two plied thread where 20 is the count of single yarn & /2 stands for number of ply. 20 X 840 yds = 16800 yds/lb The yarns become finer as the count number increases

  16. Tex Tex Sizes Sizes HK HK Sizes Sizes 604 604 403 403 402 402 502 502 602 602 Yarn Yarn Sizes Sizes 30/3 30/3 40/3 40/3 40/2 40/2 50/2 50/2 60/2 60/2 Metric Metric Sizes Sizes T- 60 T- 60 T- 45 T- 45 T- 30 T- 30 T- 21 T- 21 T- 18 T- 18 50 50 75 75 120 120 140 140 180 180 1000 meters of 1000 meters of greige yarn greige yarn Gram Weight Gram Weight

  17. Cotton to Tex 590.5 ÷ cotton count Tex to cotton 590.5 ÷ tex Cotton to metric Cotton count × 1.69 Metric to cotton Metric count × 0.59 Cotton to denier 5315 ÷ cotton count

  18. Description Stitch Class Consumption % of needle thread % of under thread (incl. cover) 3 0 1 L o c k s t i t c h 3 . 0 5 0 5 0 1 0 1 C h a i n s t i t c h 4 . 5 1 0 0 . 4 0 1 2 t h r e a d c h a i n s t i t c h 6 . 0 2 5 7 5 3 0 4 Z i g z a g s t i t c h 7 . 0 5 0 5 0 5 0 3 2 t h r e a d o v e r e d g e s t i t c h 1 2 . 0 5 5 4 5 5 0 4 3 t h r e a d o v e r e d g e s t i t c h 1 4 . 0 2 0 8 0 5 1 2 4 t h r e a d s a f e t y s t i t c h 1 8 . 0 2 5 7 5 5 1 6 5 t h r e a d s a f e t y s t i t c h 2 0 . 0 2 0 8 0 4 0 6 3 t h r e a d c o v e r i n g s t i t c h 1 8 . 0 3 0 7 0 6 0 2 4 t h r e a d c o v e r i n g s t i t c h 2 5 . 0 2 0 8 0 6 0 5 5 t h r e a d c o v e r i n g s t i t c h 2 8 . 0 3 0 7 0

  19. General guidelines for thread selection Weight of Materials (Ounces per Sq Yard) Sewing Thread Sizes Garment Examples Tex 18, 24 2 - 4 Tee Shirts, Lingerie Tex 24, 27, 30 4 - 6 Shirts, Dresses Tex 30, 40 6 - 8 Light Weight Bottoms Tex 40, 60 8 - 12 Light Weight Denim Tex 60, 80, 105 12 - 15 Heavy Weight Denim

  20. ? Quality Fabric ? Quality Trim ? Quality Vendors ? Quality Garment Construction Methods

  21. EXCESSIVE RESTITCHED SEAMS - EXCESSIVE RESTITCHED SEAMS - • Sewn products with excessive restitched seams on topstitching are NOT first quality merchandise! • Restitched seams come from sewing interruptions on the production floor caused by thread breaks or skipped stitches. • Sewn products with excessive restitched seams on topstitching are NOT first quality merchandise! • Restitched seams come from sewing interruptions on the production floor caused by thread breaks or skipped stitches. A&E High Performance Threads … Will Make the Difference! A&E High Performance Threads … Will Make the Difference!

  22. Automatic Pocket Set Automatic Pocket Set Automatic Pocket Set Automatic Pocket Set (Excessive Restitched Seams due (Excessive Restitched Seams due to Thread Breaks) to Thread Breaks)

  23. EXCESSIVE RESTITCHED EXCESSIVE RESTITCHED SEAMS on Accessories SEAMS on Accessories

  24. EXCESSIVE BROKEN STITCHES - EXCESSIVE BROKEN STITCHES - • Many sourcing companies or manufacturers spend anywhere from $.50 to $3.00 US per garment to give them a distressed appearance or a soft feel after laundering. • Many sourcing companies or manufacturers spend anywhere from $.50 to $3.00 US per garment to give them a distressed appearance or a soft feel after laundering. Choosing the Right Thread … Can Make a Difference! Choosing the Right Thread … Can Make a Difference!

  25. EXCESSIVE SKIPPED STITCHES EXCESSIVE SKIPPED STITCHES • Here are examples of garments pulled of the shelf, or return from the consumer, with skipped stitches. Skipping can be the result of Poor Loop Formation. • Here are examples of garments pulled of the shelf, or return from the consumer, with skipped stitches. Skipping can be the result of Poor Loop Formation. A&E High Performance Threads … Will Make the Difference! A&E High Performance Threads … Will Make the Difference!

  26. EXCESSIVE SKIPPED STITCHES ON KNITS EXCESSIVE SKIPPED STITCHES ON KNITS A&E High Performance Threads … A&E High Performance Threads … Will Make the Difference! Will Make the Difference!

  27. EXCESSIVE NEEDLE CUTTING ON KNITS EXCESSIVE NEEDLE CUTTING ON KNITS • A very common problem on knits is having excessive needle holes along the stitch line.We call this Needle Cutting. • A very common problem on knits is having excessive needle holes along the stitch line.We call this Needle Cutting. • Using very small needles with a ball point will definitely minimize needle cutting, but …. smaller needles require smaller thread sizes. Using a low tenacity weak thread can result in excessive Open Seams. • Using very small needles with a ball point will definitely minimize needle cutting, but …. smaller needles require smaller thread sizes. Using a low tenacity weak thread can result in excessive Open Seams. A&E High Performance Threads … Will Make the Difference! A&E High Performance Threads … Will Make the Difference!

  28. EXCESSIVE SEAM PUCKERING • A common problem on many woven products is excessive SEAM PUCKERING … where the seam does not lay flat and look right. You can sometime remove the puckering temporarily with a hot iron. However, in most cases the puckering EXCESSIVE SEAM PUCKERING • A common problem on many woven products is excessive SEAM PUCKERING … where the seam does not lay flat and look right. You can sometime remove the puckering temporarily with a hot iron. However, in most cases the puckering usually comes back! usually comes back! A&E High Performance Threads … Will Make the Difference! A&E High Performance Threads … Will Make the Difference!

  29. Spun Polyester Spun Polyester T-40 3.3 lbs Poly-wrapped Polyester Core Poly-wrapped Polyester Core T-40 4.5 lbs Using a higher tenacity thread can help: Using a higher tenacity thread can help: • Reduce thread breakage and restitched seams Reduce thread breakage and restitched seams • Reduce seam failures Reduce seam failures • Allow the use of a smaller diameter thread Allow the use of a smaller diameter thread

  30. Spun Spun Poly Poly Perma Perma Core Core T-30 T-30 (120) T-30 T-30 (120) Same Same Tex Size: Tex Size: Strength: Strength: Avg. single-end break Avg. single-end break Seam Strength: Seam Strength: 301 Lockstitch @ 8 spi (lbs.) 301 Lockstitch @ 8 spi (lbs.) (120) (120) They may look the same in the seam. They may look the same in the seam. They may look the same in the seam. They may look the same in the seam. (lbs.) (lbs.) 72% Diff 72% Diff 3.8 3.8 2.2 2.2 38% Diff 38% Diff 44 44 32 32 SPUN POLY PERMA CORE They may look the same on the cone. They may look the same on the cone.

  31. Best Quality Best Quality Poor Quality - Poor Quality - Excessive Seam Pucker Excessive Seam Pucker

  32. Sewability Sewability Seam Performance Seam Performance ? Low Elongation or High Low Elongation or High Initial Modulus Initial Modulus ? High Elongation & Good High Elongation & Good Elastic Recovery Elastic Recovery Elongation can also have a tremendous Elongation can also have a tremendous impact on Sewability & Seam Performance impact on Sewability & Seam Performance

  33. Properties of good thread Required strength Required strength Low shrinkage Low shrinkage Optimum elongation Optimum elongation Proper lubrication Proper lubrication Balanced twist level Balanced twist level High resistance to abrasion High resistance to abrasion     

  34. Thread Burn Out Thread Burn Out Why thread burns ? Why thread burns ? Needle temperature - 360ºc (max) Melting point of polyester - 200ºc to 250ºc Check lists Correct size of sewing thread Correct size of sewing thread Needle selection Needle selection Machine threading Machine threading Sewing tension Sewing tension

  35. When a thread break occurs When a thread break occurs The operator repairs the break BUT, she/he may also: Walk away from the machine for a "break" • Take time out to complain about the breakages • Take time trying a "different" cone of thread • Take time trying to resolve the thread breakage's by trying a new needle • Waste time "playing" with the thread tensions All of these things cost production time and increase of operator frustration and fatigue frustrated operators + increased fatigue + reduced morale = lower quality garments and lower production levels

  36. Time lost due to thread breaks 50 lockstitch machines 2 thread breaks per hour Minimum 30 secs to re-thread & re-sew after each break Therefore in 8 hours day, 8 minutes lost per m/c. How many individual pieces can be STITCHED in 8 minutes? 6 hours & 40 minutes time lost per day with only 50 lockstitch machine

  37. Lubrication Lubrication  Prevents thread burn out  Cools the needle during sewing  Reduces wear & tear of machine parts  Increases seam strength Produce a regular low amount of friction. Protect the thread from frictional needle heat damage. Allow even off-winding in the supply package. Be non-staining.

  38. Twist direction Twist is defined as the number of turns inserted per meter (TPM) of yarn or thread produced. If the twist is too low, the yarns may fray and break. If too high, it can cause snarling or looping resulting in thread breakage. S twist is also known as anti-clockwise or Right twist Z twist is also known as clockwise or Left twist

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