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LESSON – 14 KNOWLEDGE OF ACCESSORIES USED IN SHIRT. INTRODUCTION. Accessories means trimming material used in shirt – different kinds – depends on types of shirt – type of fabric used – style of shirt – type of finishing etc. TYPES OF ACCESSORIES Thread button elastic
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LESSON – 14 KNOWLEDGE OF ACCESSORIES USED IN SHIRT
INTRODUCTION Accessories means trimming material used in shirt – different kinds – depends on types of shirt – type of fabric used – style of shirt – type of finishing etc. TYPES OF ACCESSORIES Thread button elastic buckle eyelet lacing label shoulder pads interlining
THREADS Threads made from flexible yarns – these yarns made from fibers, filament, bonded cord or monofilaments – For industrial or domestic sewing threads, natural threads ( cotton, linen, silk ) or synthetic threads ( polyester ) are used TYPES OF THREAD 1. Strand : Twist or bond two or more than two fibers or filaments together – ( continue…)
2. Multifilament yarn : two or more than two strands used – twist or bonded – 3. Monofilament yarn : made with special treatment - only one filament used - What is ply ? The number of strands used to make a yarn e.g. 2 ply, 3 ply, 4 ply or mono cord
Different finishing process used on thread are : 1. Soft finished : for smoothness – lubricate the threads- have good sewing ability 2. Mercerization : deep the threads in costic soda solution – process on cotton – have good durability, shining, smooth surface – can dye ( continue… )
Industrial threads : The thread have ticket no. – available in form of cone, parallel cone , tube, spools or broad based plastic tubes Ticket no. Ply * 60,70,80,90,100 2 120,140,160 * 20, 24, 30, 36, 40 3 50, 60, 70, 80, 90 100 , 120
Ticket no. Ply *12, 16, 20, 24, 4 30, 36, 40, 50 * 30, 36, 40, 50 6 60 Industrial threads must have uniform – evenness, smoothness, elasticity and strength
BUTTON Used for closing – basic and decorative purpose – different size and shape – many design – Kinds of button : 1. sew on button : have two or four holes – vary in thickness and shapes – stitch with the help of thread – by button stitch machine or by hand – size are define by ligns – 2. button with shank : button have shank on bottom – self mould – made from metal, cloth ( continue..)
3. Reinforced button : have two or four parts – button passed through fabric – can fix with the help of snap attaching machine
ELASTIC Made from rubber or synthetic material - different in size – core, wrapped, braided or woven Used in woven or knitted material – in shirt , use on sleeve hem or bottom hem
BUCKLE Have different size and shapes – square, rectangle or round in shape – in centre, a bar is given – buckles are with prong or without prong used for closing of different parts of a shirt – on belt , sleeve , shoulder , pocket used to fix the tab
INTERLINING For stiffness on front placket, collar, cuff, etc. Two types of interlining : 1. Woven interlining : two types – fusible and non fusible – fusible have layer of thermoplastic – melt by heating - fixed – non fusible
INTERLINING 2. Non woven interlining : fusible – special process made on tiny fibers –paper fusing--
SHOULDER PAD Shoulder pad : used in over garments like jacket, coat – made from cotton fibers or sponge
LABELS Labels : for decoration or basic purpose – fix on pocket, placket , or collar