Janak Raj Rawal

1. RELEVANCE OF ORGANIC COSMETICS Janak Raj Rawal

2. Human Skin Skin is the largest organ of human body that wraps and protects the whole body. It constitutes a living, dynamic tissue system which has the remarkable ability to absorb applied products, partially or completely, into the bloodstream. People use different matter/s to beautify their skin. Those products are generally called as cosmetics.

3. Cosmetics Cosmetics means substance or combination of substances in form of a product applied to enhance or protect the external appearance or odor of human body in a desired manner with no or negligible negative effect.

4. Human Skin and Cosmetics Several chemicals are used in common popular cosmetics used for beautification purpose. At the same time up to 60% of the products used on skin are absorbed and deposited into the circulatory system.

5. Organic Cosmetics: Passionate about Plants • ‘Organic’ has become a cosmetic buzzword on par with ‘all-natural’; • Consumers are inundated with Organic claims on all manner of products; • Frequent media stories surrounding the potential health risks and unknowns of anything remotely synthetic; • Curiosity for Organic products are at an all-time high with product sales skyrocketing; • Cosmetic companies are launching skin-care products labeled Organic for Celebrities, faster than one can say “but is this really good for my skin?”!

6. Three kind of Cosmetics available • Chemical or Synthetic Cosmetics • Natural Cosmetics • Organic/partially Organic Cosmetics

7. Chemical or Synthetic Cosmetics Produced through purposeful execution of chemical reactions.  Various reaction types can be applied to these to synthesize the product, or an intermediate product.

8. Natural Cosmetics Materials or energy procured or harvested from the earth or from its original environment used for human needs directly or isolated and purified by a variety of environmentally sound techniques including: filtration, fermentation, distillation, expressing and other like processes.

9. Organic Cosmetics Produced through a system that is managed in accordance with the defined parameter responding to site-specific conditions by using ingredients produced without the aid of non-naturally occurring chemicals including fertilizers, pesticides, herbicides, genetically modified organisms, or ionizing radiation and harvested, collected, warehoused, transported limiting to the required factors.

10. Adverse Effects of Synthetic Formulations Organic Make Up Company of United States of America has pointed out some ingredients used in popular and common synthetic formulations of cosmetics and their effects on living beings.

14. Confusion over meaning of ‘NATURAL’ and ‘ORGANIC’ Mention of ‘Natural’ or ‘Organic’ take a more unwarranted staining in cosmetics industry. ‘Natural’ may be defined as ‘existing in, or formed by nature; not artificial’. Many labels have long list of synthetic chemical names, some followed by the phrase ‘derived from . . .’ (some natural substance). This is misleading because when chemicals such as Cocamide DEA or Sodium Hydroxysultaine are followed by the term ‘derived from coconut oil’ the consumer is led to believe that these synthetic chemicals must be natural. Another example: To create Cocamide DEA (a foaming agent in some shampoos) requires the addition of a synthetic chemical and known Carcinogen, Di-ethanolamine – DEA, to the coconut oil. It is therefore no longer natural or safe.

15. Confusion over meaning of ‘NATURAL’ and ‘ORGANIC’ ‘Organic’, means grown and cultivated without the use of synthetic chemicals. Some companies cynically use the chemistry definition of ‘Organic’ - meaning a compound that contains a carbon atom. Carbon is found in anything that has ever lived. By this definition of Organic, they are misguiding that a petrochemical preservative called Methyl Paraben is ‘Organic’.

16. List of a ‘Natural’ and ‘Organic’ body moisturiser ingredients from a well known ‘Natural’ skin care company.

17. Now let’s look at an ingredient list of a certified organic body moisturiser.

18. After having a broad idea on the possible negative side effects of synthetic ingredients used in manufacturing synthetic cosmetics let us now look at the basic differences between Natural and Organic cosmetics by analyzing some parameters like: • Definition • Standards • Certification bodies • Labels • Demand • Health benefits • Preference • Price • Shelf life • Availability

19. Parameter : by Definition Organic Cosmetic Organic Cosmetics refers to items produced and used by organic means. Natural Cosmetic Natural Cosmetics items are minimally synthesized. Parameter : by Standards Organic Cosmetic Some standards for organic Cosmetics production, handling and processing exist in several parts of the world. Natural Cosmetic Natural Cosmetics items are minimally synthesized.

20. Parameter : by Certification Bodies Organic Cosmetic A few countries have Certification bodies. Natural Cosmetic No certification facility. Parameter : by Standards Organic Cosmetic Organic labels have legal implication that binds a manufacturer to follow the specified rules and regulations. Natural Cosmetic Natural labels are normally used freely by manufacturers due to lack of ample guidelines.

21. Parameter : by Demand Organic Cosmetic Demand for Organic Cosmetics is growing faster than the demand for Natural Cosmetics. Natural Cosmetic The demand for Natural Cosmetics is also increasing; however, not as much as Organic Cosmetics. Parameter : by Health benefits Organic Cosmetic There is no evidence to prove that Organic Cosmetics are healthier than Non Organic. Natural Cosmetic Excessive use of cosmetics often disturbs their health of the skin.

22. Parameter : by Preference Organic Cosmetic People prefer Organic Cosmetics because they feel it is safer. Natural Cosmetic People prefer Natural Cosmetics because they believe excessive processing of ingredients disturbs their benefits. Parameter : by Price Organic Cosmetic Organic Cosmetics are priced more than non Organic Cosmetics. Natural Cosmetic Natural Cosmetics are also priced more than Non Organic Cosmetics

23. Parameter : by Shelf Life Organic Cosmetic Shelf life of Organic Cosmetics is more than that of Natural Cosmetics. Natural Cosmetic Since having high water content, the shelf life is low. Parameter : by Availability Organic Cosmetic Organic Cosmetics are being sold in almost every super market. Natural Cosmetic Natural Cosmetics are available at many stores that sell Organic Cosmetics also.

24. Skin Care and Cosmetics We need to take good care of our skin to prevent premature aging and to help preserve the natural glow of our skin. It is fact that ordinary commercial beauty and cosmetic products often contain toxic and chemically-potent substances have overall damaging effects for every consumer, some people exhibit immediate health problems. In recent years, people have realized the adverse effects of using cosmetic products that contain chemical and so called natural ingredients.

25. What is ORGANIC ? Organically speaking, what does the term ‘Organic’ means in the world of cosmetics. Shockingly, it doesn’t really mean anything because there is no cohesive definition, Different organizations/ businesses have sprung up trying to become the source or stamp of approval, for a fee of course. There is also the battle of the organic lines with each saying their is the real deal and everyone else is fibbing.

26. Mostly the term ‘Organic’ or ‘Natural’ is perpetuating the myth that synthetic ingredients are automatically bad and natural ingredients are automatically good. Now it seems that only Organic ingredients are good and even Natural ingredients are now bad unless they are obtained organically. The truth is more complicated. Consumers are waylaid by the labels, trusting (albeit blindly) the one they’ve chosen is the right brand. In reality what ends up happening more often then not is just an exchange of one marketing scheme (i.e. traditional cosmetic companies), to the new one of products labeled with Organic plants.

27. USDA about Organic Foods Organic food is produced by farmers who emphasize the use of renewable resources and the conservation of soil and water to enhance environmental quality for future generations. Organic meat, poultry, eggs and dairy products come from animals that are given no antibiotics or growth hormones. Organic food is produced without using most conventional pesticides, fertilizers made with synthetic ingredients or sewage sludge, bio-engineering, or ionizing radiation. Before a product can be labeled ‘Organic,’ it must be approved by a government-approved certifier.

28. USDA about Cosmetics     Many consumers are already attracted to any cosmetic that claims to be natural, no matter how bogus the claim. To make their products stand out from the rest, cosmetics companies are starting to use the term ‘Organic’ on their product labels. But as Consumer Reports (August 2003) stated, ‘With no hearings or public discussion, the USDA extended its rules on Organic labeling to cosmetics. There are now shampoos and body lotions labeled 70% Organic based on the fact that their main ingredient is … water in which something Organic, such as lavender leaf, has been soaked.’

29. Tim Kapsner’s salient point Tim Kapsner, Senior Research Scientist at Aveda, made a salient point by stating that “In absence of a true industry standard, companies applied the USDA organic food standard for beauty and personal care product ingredients and products, but the USDA’s food standards were never designed for this industry and its strict guidelines limit certain types of ‘Green Chemistry’ and pose significant challenges for those seeking to create certified Organic products.”

30. Organic Cosmetics Demand of Time • These products do not contain harmful chemicals that may have many adverse effects on body. • Organic products are environment friendly making body healthy and help to save the planet from pollutants. • One can be sure that skin is getting the best care. • Natural ingredients ensure less possibility of any side effects. • Health benefits derived from using Organic Cosmetics are definitely worth the money that one pays for it.

31. The Organic Market Surging Ahead The forecast for continued strong sales of products labeled as Organic is nothing less than robust. As a category, Organic (and Natural) products are worth $7.3 billion (only in USA). From 2005-2007 there was a 53% increase in Organic product launches, including many new brands appearing in well-known retail outlets Companies large and small are jumping on the Organic bandwagon, whose wheels and fuel (meaning contents) are presumably composed of Organic materials.

32. Organic Cosmetics Indian Scenario STRENGTH • Organic skin care and Organic hair care products are gaining fast popularity. • Not only high-income group but also the higher-middle income group are becoming more health conscious. • A huge gap persists and widening day by day. • Abundantly raw material from wild sources are available.

33. Organic Cosmetics Indian Scenario WEAKNESS • Not targeted for common people. • Non availability of the product with in the reach of customers. • Certified raw materials are costlier. • Lack of proper merchandising. • Manufacturing system not streamlined. • Inadequate research to understand consumer buying behaviour.

34. Organic Cosmetics Indian Scenario OPPORTUNITIES • Vast export potential for Organic products. • Increased income of higher-middle class. • Presence of numbers of Organic Certification bodies. • Fast technology transfer from developed countries. • Indigenous technology development. • Low labour cost. • Quality assurance through contract farming.

35. Organic Cosmetics Indian Scenario THREAT • Consumer resistance to change. • Price will be more when compared to conventional products. • Absence proper regulations to prevent health hazards caused by cosmetics, it will be difficult to set standards. • Developments in manufacturing technology may obsolete the product.

36. NATURAL ALTERNATIVES TO SYNTHETIC CHEMICALS EMOLLIENTS Emollients serve two functions; they prevent dryness and protect the skin, acting as a barrier and healing agent. Synthetic emollients are occlusive i.e. they coat the skin and do not allow it to respire (much like plastic wrap), which can cause skin irritation. Some Synthetic Emollients PEG compounds (anything that contains the phrase benzyl –, butyl-, cetearyl-, cetyl -, glyceryl-, isopropyl-, myristyl propyl-, propylene-, or stearyl-): Have been shown to cause allergies and dermatitis. Natural emollients actually nourish the skin. They are metabolised by the skin’s own enzymes and absorbed into it. They are readily biodegradable and are of edible quality. Some Natural Emollients Plant Oils (eg. Jojoba, Avocado, Rosehip) Shea, Cocoa and Jojoba Butters.

37. NATURAL ALTERNATIVES TO SYNTHETIC CHEMICALS HUMECTANTS The main purpose of any cream is to keep the skin moist. Many conventional creams form a suffocating film on the skin to prevent moisture loss. Even a natural humectants, glycerin, actually attracts water from the air and surrounding tissue. It keeps the skin moist as long as there is sufficient moisture in the air. In a dry climate it actually draws moisture from the skin. Some Synthetic Humectants Propylene Glycol: Causes irritation and contact dermatitis, Ethylene / Diethylene Glycol: Causes irritation and contact dermatitis, PEG compounds (eg Polyethylene Glycol): May contain the toxic by-product dioxane, Ethoxylated surfactants (eg “- laureth-”): May contain the toxic by-product dioxane. Some Natural Humectants Lecithin Panthenol (pro-vitamin B5) Glycerin

38. NATURAL ALTERNATIVES TO SYNTHETIC CHEMICALS • EMULSIFIERS • Emulsifiers hold two ingredients together that normally don’t mix. This can either be a physical substance (like a wax) or a physical action (shake well before use!). • Some Synthetic Emulsifiers • Alkoxykated Amides (eg.TEA, DEA, MEA, MIPA) • PEG compounds: May contain the toxic byproduct dioxane • SorbitanStearate, Laurate, Palmitate, Oleate etc • Ozokerite, Ceresin, Silicone and Montan Waxes • Isopropyl Stearate, Laurate, Palmitate, Oleate etc • Some Natural Emulsifiers • Plant Waxes (eg. Candelilla, Carnauba, Jojoba, Rice Bran) • Xanthan Gum • Quince Seed

39. NATURAL ALTERNATIVES TO SYNTHETIC CHEMICALS SURFACTANTS Surface-active-agents are substances capable of dissolving oils and holding dirt in suspension so it can be rinsed away. They are used in skin cleansers and shampoos. Some Synthetic Surfactants: Sodium or Ammonium Lauryl or LaurethSulphate, Sodium Methyl CocoylTaurate, Sodium Lauroyl or CocoylSarcosinate, CocomidopropylBetaine, TEA (Triethanolamine) compounds, DEA (Diethanolamine) compounds, MEA (Monethanolamine) compounds, PEG (Polyethylene Glycol) compounds, Quaternium -7, 15, 31, 60 etc, Lauryl or CocoylSarcosine, Disodium Oleamide or DioctylSulfosuccinate Some Natural Surfactants: Castile Soap, Yucca Extract, Soapwort, Quillaja Bark Extract. Natural saponins (foaming agents) are a much better choice for shampoos as they gently cleanse the hair and scalp without stripping the natural oils.

40. NATURAL ALTERNATIVES TO SYNTHETIC CHEMICALS • PRESERVATIVES • The decaying process is natural and happens with or without preservatives. Skin care products do not (and should not) last for ever. • Some Synthetic Preservatives: • Imidiazolidinyl Urea (Germall 115), Diazolidinyl Urea (Germall II), Germall 115 , DMDM Hydantoin, Methyl, Propyl, Butyl and Ethyl Paraben, 2-Bromo -2-Nitro-Propane-1, Quarternium-15, Chloromethylisothiazolinone, Isothiazolinone, Methylisothiazolinone and Methylchloroisothiazolinone, ButylatedHydroxytoluene (BHT) and Butylatedhudroxyanisole (BHA) • Some Natural Preservatives • Tea Tree Essential Oil • Thyme Essential Oil • Grapefruit Seed Extract • Bitter Orange Extract

41. NASAA recommendations The National Association or Sustainable Agriculture Australia (NASAA) is a renowned organization for certifying organic products in Australia. NASAA released a draft on health and beauty care standards. The standards are applicable for organic personal care products including herbal, toiletries, body care products and cosmetics. NASAA has provided broad guidelines for manufacturers who wish to label their cosmetic products as organic.

42. NASAA Guidelines • The raw materials used in making the organic body care products should be certified as organic. • The processing should be minimal and should ensure that the natural properties of the raw materials are maintained. Many cosmetic products contain natural oils such as essential oils which can lose their properties under severe temperatures. • The products should be effective and superior in quality. • There should be minimum pollution and environmental damage in manufacturing and disposing the products. • The manufacturers should also properly label the products and provide accurate information to the consumers. Contd….

43. NASAA Guidelines • There should be no harm caused to animals in the form of testing or procurement of raw materials. • The raw materials should not lose their natural properties after extraction and processing. • Solvents if any are used for extraction; they should be prepared from certified organic means. • The beauty care products can be manufactured using biological, mechanical and physical processing methods. • The labeling should be elaborate and should provide clear and accurate information to the consumers.

44. Thank you all ! JANAK RAJ RAWAL C-3/22, Phase-2, Ashok Vihar, New Delhi-110052