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This research presentation at .EXCO, Daegu, Korea on Nov. 1-4, 2011, by Dr. Wong Wai Yin, Dr. Jimmy Lam, and Dr. C.W. Kan focuses on the influences of knitted fabric construction and color on ultraviolet protection. The study explores factors affecting UV protection in clothing, including fiber composition, fabric construction, yarn twist, fabric thickness, weight, and coloration. It presents a detailed literature review, background information, previous findings, experimental details, results, and discussions, along with future study recommendations. The research aims to improve UV protection in summer knitwear through modifications in fabric construction. It compares the UV protection ability of different knitted fabric structures and discusses the impact of dye concentration on UV protection. The presentation emphasizes the importance of balancing UV protection and thermal comfort in clothing.
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EXCO, Daegu, Korea Nov 1-4, 2011 The 11th Asian Textile Conference Presenter: Wong Wai Yin Dr. Jimmy Lam, Dr. C.W. Kan Influences of Knitted Fabric Construction & Color on Ultraviolet Protection
Overview • Introduction • Literature Review • Background • Previous Findings • Experimental Details • Results & Discussions • Conclusion • Future Study • References
Introduction • Increasing no. of people dying from skin cancer due to over exposure to UVR • Skin ageing, skin cancer, cataract, ↓Effectiveness ofimmune system • Excessive sun exposure in childhood is likely to contribute to skin cancer in later life • Clothing provide limited protection against UV radiation • Factors affecting UV protection of clothing: • Fiber Composition • Fabric Construction: tighter structure, smaller the fabric pores for UVR transmission • Yarn twist • Fabric Thickness, Weight • End-use conditions: Wetness / Stretching • Coloration: absorption band of dye extend into invisible UV region (290-400nm) • Chemical Treatments / Additives
Literature Review • Parameters affecting UV protection are well researched • Many studies have concentrated on: • Woven fabrics • Chemical approaches to enhance UV protection • UV absorbers: TiO2, ZnO, optical brightening agents • Little work has been done on: • Influence of knitted fabric construction • Structural parameters of knitted fabric against UVR transmission • UV protection provided by stretched or wetted knitted fabrics
Background • Aim: Improve UV protection of summer knitwear by modifying the fabric construction • Chemical Approach by using UV absorbers (ZnO,TiO2): • Problem of fiber & dye degradation by photo-catalytic mechanism • Challenges on wash-fastness & adhesion to fabrics • Pollution, water consumption of those chemical treatments • Engineering Approach by modifying fabric construction • Environmental friendly manufacturing process • Especially suitable for knitwear (more elastic and creates more open spaces when stretched) • UV protection enhanced by chemicals is only sufficient when fabric structure is closed enough
Previous Findings • Fabric construction with different types of stitches possess distinct UV protection ability • UV protection factor of greige & bleached cotton fabrics with: • Miss stitch >Knit stitch >Tuck stitch • Double Knitted fabrics > Single Knitted fabrics
Experimental Details 1. Fabric Specimens Production: Single Knit Structures Notation:
Experimental Details 2. Coloration with Reactive Dyes: • Reactive dyes with bi-functional group for better color fastness • Temperature rise process 25-60℃ • L.R. = 50:1 • Four shades: • Red: Levafix Red CA (MFT-TEP) • Yellow: Remazol Yellow 3RS (MCT-VS) • Blue: Levafix Navy Blue E-BNA (FCP-VS) • Black: Remazol Black A (VS-DCT) • Three level of depths: 0.1%, 1%, 3%
Measurements of UPF • Ultraviolet Protection Factor (UPF) indicates how much UVR is blocked by a textile materials (e.g. UPF 20 allows 1/20th of UVR passing through fabric) • Measured by Cary 300 Conc UV-Vis spectrophotometer with a schott UG 11 filter in a dry, flat and tensionless state (un-stretched) • Australian/New Zealand Standard (AS/NZS 4399:1996) • In Vitro Method: Transmittance (T%)of UV spectrum (290-400 nm) through fabric and calculating the ratio of erthemally weighted solar UVR irradiance measured by a detector with and without fabric sample in place • UV protective clothing should have a minimum UPF 15 • ↑ UPF ≈ ↓ Transmittance
Measurements of Color Yield (K/S sum) • Measured by a Macbeth Color Eye 7000A spectrophotometer • Acquired at CIE standard observer 10° viewing angle • Under CIE standard illuminant D65 (daylight illumination) • Specimens were folded into layers to ensure opacity but without stretching • K/S Sum value is calculated by summation of each K/S value within the visible spectrum (400-700 nm) with 10 nm intervals: • ↑ K/S ≈ ↑ Concentration of colorant in the medium
Results & Discussions • No major difference in color yield (K/S sum) whereas distinct difference in UPF among various knit structures in red & yellow colored fabrics • Knit & Miss structures have higher UPF than All Knit and Knit & Tuck structures • ↑ UPF ~ ↑ dye concentration (color depth) • Although darker colored fabric provides superior UV protection, thermal comfort is a concern especially for summer wear. • Darker shaded clothes absorb more infra-red radiation causing wearer feels hot K/S Sum K/S Sum
Results & Discussions • No major difference in color yield (K/S sum) whereas distinct difference in UPF among various knit structures in red & yellow colored fabrics • Color is not a reliable indicator for UV protective performance of fabrics • UV protection depends on dye’s absorption characteristics in UV region which further controlled by their specific structural attributes rather than the chemical class of the dye (Srinivasan et al., 2000) K/S Sum K/S Sum
Conclusion • For colored cotton fabrics with the 4 single knit structures: • Knit structures have significant influence in UPF but not for Color yield (K/S sum) • Knit & Miss structure provides better UV protection in all the 4 colors than the All Knit and Knit & Tuck structures • ↑ UPF ~ ↑ dye concentration (color depth) • Darker shaded clothing may not be suitable for summer wear ∵higher absorption of IR radiation, feel hotter • To achieve thermo-physiological comfort, fabrics with Knit & Miss structure are recommended for lighter shaded clothing
Future Works • With various knit constructions: • Influence of stretching and wetting on UV protection of knitwear with various knit constructions • Effect of fiber type • Yarn structures e.g. bulkiness & hairiness • Impact of laundering and abrasion affect UPF of various knit structures
References Acknowledgement The research is funded in part by the General Research Fund (A-SA21) from the University Grants Committee, Hong Kong and The Hong Kong Polytechnic University, Hong Kong. • Ultraviolet radiation and human health (2009). Retrieved May 10, 2011 from http://www.who.int/mediacentre/factsheets/fs305/en/index.html • Skin Cancer Facts (2010). Retrieved June 20, 2011 from http://www.cancer.org/Cancer/CancerCauses/SunandUVExposure/skin-cancer-facts • J. Fan, & L. Hunter, Engineering Apparel Fabrics and Garment, Cambridge: Woodhead: Textile Institute; Roca Raton, Fla.: CRC, 309-338, (2009). • The American Society for Testing and Materials, ASTM D1776-04, Standard Practice for Conditioning and Testing Textiles. • Australian/New Zealand Standard, AS/NZS 4399:1996, Sun protection clothing – Evaluation and classification. • M. Srinivasan and B.M. Gatewood, Textile Chemist and Colorist & American Dyestuff Reporter, 32(4), 36-43, (2000). • P.D. Dubrovski and D.Golob, Textile Research Journal, 79(4), 351-359, (2009).