110 likes | 223 Views
Do Now – In Notebooks. What is salinity? What are the two possible ways the ocean became salinated ? Explain one of the desalination processes. Ocean Movements. Ocean Waves. Essential Question How does ocean water work? Objectives Identify parts of a wave
E N D
Do Now – In Notebooks • What is salinity? • What are the two possible ways the ocean became salinated? • Explain one of the desalination processes.
Ocean Waves • Essential Question • How does ocean water work? • Objectives • Identify parts of a wave • Explain the process that causes waves to break • Describe different ocean currents
Waves • A waveis a rhythmic movement that carries energy through matter or space. • As a wave passes, only energy moves forward, while the water molecules move around in circles and stay near their original position. • Waves are created by friction from wind.
Wave Characteristics • The crest is the high point of a wave. • The trough is the low point of a wave. • Wavelength is the horizontal distance between the crests or between the troughs of two waves. • Wave height is the vertical distance between crest and trough. • Half the distance of the wave height is called the amplitudeof a wave.
Wave Height • Depends on three factors: • Wind Speed • Wind Duration • Fetch • Expanse of water wind blows across
Breakers • Waves lose energy and slow down as they reach the shore, due to friction with the beach • Incoming crests catch up to slower crests ahead • Smaller crest-crest wavelength • Waves become higher, steeper, and unstable • The crests collapse forward
Ocean Currents • Density Current • Due to difference in temp. and salinity • Move slowly in deep ocean waters • Surface Current • Wind-driven • West to east due to prevailing westerlies
Upwelling • Upwelling is the upward motion of ocean water • Water is cold because it originates from the bottom