Created by: University of Minnesota Extension Master Gardener-Anoka County Eva Knudsen

1. Created by: University of Minnesota Extension Master Gardener-Anoka CountyEva Knudsen Growing Berries in Minnesota

2. The Six Most Important Things to Remember Proper Site Selection • For the plant – Full sun Protection from wind On a slope? Good soil drainage What was growing there before? What is growing around area? • For you, the gardener – Close to a water source easy access

3. The Six Most Important Things to Remember Proper Site Preparation • Do a soil test • Obtain proper pH • Add soil nutrients according to test results • Make sure area is weed free • Plant certified disease-free plants

4. The Six Most Important Things to Remember Proper Watering • Avoid overhead watering • Put soaker hose in place before planting under mulch

5. The Six Most Important Things to Remember Good Air Circulation • Good air flow decreases the chance of diseases and insects • Proper pruning and thinning of plants increases air flow • Keeping areas weed free increase air flow

6. The Six Most Important Things to Remember Good Sanitation • Many diseases and insects harbor in plant material and debris • Prune out diseased or injured plants • Remove over ripe fruit as often and quickly as possible

7. The Six Most Important Things to Remember Mulch • Covers diseases that can overwinter in the soil or debris on the ground • Holds soil moisture • Helps keep soil at a constant temperature

8. Why Blueberries? 'North Sky' blueberry, photo by: David Hansen

12. Soil for Blueberries • Soil pH is the most limiting factor • Optimum pH is 4.0-5.0 (have a soil test) • Sandy-Sandy loam soils can be modified by mixing 4-6 inches of acid peat into the upper 6-8 inches of soil • Elemental sulfur can be added to acidify the soil but requires at least 1 yr. for the pH to adjust.

13. Planting a Blueberry Bush • Planting too deep or not deep enough may cause root damage • Set plants at the same depth they were in the container for the best results. • Mulch

14. Fertilization and Cultivation of Blueberries • Do not cultivate deeper than 2 inches • Mulch 2-4 inches deep and 1-2 feet around each bush • For new plants; apply nitrogen as a sidedressing when the second flush of growth starts • For older plants; apply nitrogen in the spring • Plants on very sandy soils benefit from a split nitrogen application; half in the spring and the other half at petal fall • Do not fertilize after July

15. Pruning Blueberries • Prune off flower buds and weak, spindly growth on new plants for the first 2 yrs after planting • Prune mature plants in late winter (before buds swell) cutting out diseased and dead wood, branches 5 yrs. or older each year • Pruning cuts should be made at ground level or to a low growing lateral branch, allowing 1-3 new braches to develop each year

16. Characteristics of Blueberry Cultivars for Minnesota

17. Harvesting Blueberries • Harvest season is 2-5 weeks • The underside of the berry will turn from pink to blue when fully ripe • Pick only fully ripe blue berries • Pick only when dry and keep handling to a minimum • Cool berries promptly and store at temps between 32-40 degrees F.

18. Winter Protection • Winter injury can occur at -25 degrees F. if the plant is not protected • Blueberries are susceptible to sunscald injury in late winter • If snow cover is less than 12 inches, other protection is needed

19. Pest Management for Blueberries • Blueberries can successfully be grown without pesticides • Good sanitation and air circulation thru proper pruning is most important • The most important thing to avoid pest problems starts with proper site selection and preparation

20. Strawberries

21. Strawberries Varieties • Junebearing strawberries produce fruit from early June through late July and are generally overwintered • Junebearingplants set flower buds in the fall of the year prior to fruiting when the day is relatively short, about 12 hours

22. Strawberries Varieties • Everbearing strawberries produce two to three harvests of fruit intermittently during the spring, summer and fall and do not send out many runners. • Day Neutral strawberries produce fruit throughout the growing season. These strawberries also produce few runners.

23. Planting Strawberries • A well-drained loam or sandy loam soil is best to maintain plant vigor and reduce disease problems. • Strawberries require full sunlight • Strawberries prefer slightly acidic soil with pH 5.3-6.5

24. Growing Junebearing Strawberries • The main planting system used for Junebearing cultivars is the matted row • Set the plants 1½ to 2½ feet apart in rows spaced 3 to 4 feet apart • Let the runners develop until the row is 1 to 1½ feet wide. This system allows for easier weed control, easier harvest, less fruit rot, and fewer foliage diseases than other systems.

25. Growing Day-Neutral Strawberries • Plant day-neutral cultivars in the same way, or on a 6-to 8-inch raised bed. The raised bed provides higher spring soil temperatures and better drainage, allowing faster establishment and earlier cropping. Photo credit:Dave Hansen

26. Fertilizing Strawberries • Before planting have a soil test done • Fertilize early each spring before the plants produce flowers. • For June-bearing types, you may choose to spread another fertilizer application after they have finished producing fruit for the season. (During restoration is the best) • DO NOT fertilize the plants during flowering or fruit production as your berries will be softer, of poorer quality, and will not keep well.

27. Renovating June-Bearing Strawberries • After harvest is completed mow off the foliage using a standard lawnmower, taking care not to damage the crowns of the plants • After 1-2 weeks, rototill or hoe the rows so they are only half their original width • Thru renovating, June-bearing strawberries should be completely replaced every 3-5 years for maximum productivity.

28. Everbearing Strawberries • Runners are normally removed as they appear, especially if the "hill" system is used. • For maximum productivity, replace the planting every three years. • Day-neutral strawberries should also be replaced every 3 years.

29. Strawberries: Covered and Uncovered • Winter mulch protects strawberry buds from freezing and should be left on as late as possible in spring to keep plants from coming out of dormancy and growing too early, • One sign that the cover should be removed immediately is if the strawberry leaves begin to turn yellow. Even then you can leave a light mulch on the plants if that yellowing occurs quite early in the season. This provides some protection from cold temperatures. • When you remove straw mulch, keep it between the rows of plants. That way it will be relatively easy to cover them again if another hard frost is predicted.

30. STRAWBERRY GRAY MOLD Occurs frequently Photo by Plant Disease Clinic ,

31. STRAWBERRY     LEAF SPOT / SCORCH • . Photo by Chad Behrendt

32. Most Common Insect Pests of Strawberries Tarnished Plant Bugs Picnic Beetles Slugs Strawberry Root Weevil

33. Tarnished Plant Bug Damage

34. Raspberries

35. Raspberries • The main types which can be grown in the home garden are red, yellow, black, and purple. • Raspberries can be grown successfully in most areas of Minnesota. • Raspberries have perennial roots and crowns but canes live for only two summers. • Most raspberries are summer-bearing varieties. During the first year, the new canes grow vegetatively. The canes overwinter and during the second growing season the second year canes produces fruit and then die.

36. Where Should You Plant Raspberries • Grow raspberries in an area that has good air circulation, water drainage and full sunlight. • Protect plants from windy sites as wind can induce excessive drying and cane injury. • Any well-drained soil is satisfactory for growing raspberries. Additional water will be needed on a sandy soil.

37. All raspberries benefit from some type of support system The simplest trellis system uses single or double wires or twine. Place posts about every 10 to 12 feet. Place the canes between the wires and tie them loosely to the wire. The wires can be tied every 2 feet to prevent spreading. Training Raspberries

38. PruningSummer-bearing Red and Yellow Raspberries • Cut and dispose of all canes immediately after they bear fruit. (during dry weather) • At this time you should thin out new shoots so only three or four of the sturdiest canes remain per foot of row. • In the spring the fruiting canes should be cut back slightly. Never cut back more than one-fourth (25%) the total height of the cane.

39. PruningFall-bearing Raspberries • For a fall crop, cut all canes off at the base before growth begins in spring. • Fall-bearing raspberries (also called Ever-bearing) are able to initiate flowers during the first year. During the second year, they can produce a summer crop on the same canes • For a fall and summer crop, thin the canes as described for summer-bearing raspberries. The canes that produced the fall crop should not be removed as they will produce fruit the following summer. Prune them back in spring to the last visible node that had fruit.

40. PruningBlack and Purple Raspberries • Black and most purple raspberries produce new canes only from the buds at the base of the year old canes. These clumps or "hills" remain in the original planting location. • When new canes are between 24 to 30 inches in height, pinch out the tip of each shoot to induce branching • After harvest, cut down all canes that bore fruit to ground level • Before growth begins the following spring, cut back all side branches to 12 - 18 inches. Select 4 to 5 canes per hill and prune out the rest. Tie these canes to the support system.

41. Blackberries in Minnesota? • Black raspberries are hard to fruit reliably year after year in zone 4. • The UofM is working in cooperation with the large blackberry breeding program at the University of Arkansas. U of A has developed a first year cane-fruiting blackberry, which means it fruits on the first year growth. • They anticipate at least 5 years of field trials until they're confident in their results and certain the crowns won't die out.

42. Stop the Spread of Raspberry Diseases • Cultural practices can limit the spread of diseases • Destroy wild or abandoned brambles near the garden • After harvest, remove and destroy canes that have fruited, are diseased, or are weak • Improve air circulation by proper thinning and pruning and by controlling weeds

43. Viruseson Raspberry • Raspberries are susceptible to a number of viruses but are hard to diagnose and can be easily confused with herbicide damage • Consult an expert if you think your plants are infected Photo: F. D. McElroy

44. Gooseberries • Elderberries 'Redlake' currant Photo credit: Dave Hansen

45. METHODS OF PREPARATION

46. Jams and Jellies • Jams and jellies have a very high sugar content. • The sugar binds with the liquid present making it difficult for microorganisms to grow. • To prevent surface contamination after the product is made and thus possible yeast or mold growth, jams and jellies are either canned, frozen or refrigerated.

47. Canning Jams, Marmalades and PreservesWithout Added Pectin • Jams, conserves, and marmalades; made without added pectin require longer cooking and have a slightly different flavor from those with added pectin. They also yield a less finished product. • The product is done when the temperature reaches 220° - 222° F.

48. Canning Jams, Marmalades and PreservesWith Added Pectin • Be sure to carefully follow the directions accompanying the pectin product. The order of combining ingredients depends on the type of pectin used. • Successful preparation of pectin-added jams, marmalades, and conserves depends on accurate timing. Begin counting time when the mixture reaches a full rolling boil-one that cannot be stirred down. • There is a third method for preparing jams; it does not require cooking the fruit-this product must be stored in the refrigerator or freezer.

49. Note. Jelly jars with paraffin are no longer recommended. An incomplete seal with paraffin and the absence of a heat treatment may result in mold growth and toxin production in the jelly. Persons continuing to use the paraffin, and no water bath method, should be aware of the potential health risk.

50. A research study conducted at the University of Minnesota demonstrated that heat processing jelly for 5 to 15 minutes had no harmful effect on the products. Those tested included ones made with liquid and powdered pectin, as well as traditional no-pectin-added ones. In addition, the heat processing gives a better seal, and destroys mold that may be present on the top surface of the product.