Coastal Zone Module

1. Coastal Zone Module Tiffany L. Hepner Bureau of Economic Geology John A. and Katherine Jackson School of Geosciences The University of Texas at Austin Development of this module has been funded by National Science Foundation Geoscience Education GEO-0224501

2. Funding for THSCMP is provided by the Texas Coastal Coordination Council, The Meadows Foundation, the National Science Foundation, Conoco, the Exxon Foundation, and the Wray Family Trust. The Texas High School Coastal Monitoring Program was started by the Bureau of Economic Geology (BEG), the University of Texas at Austin in 1997. Scientists at the BEG started the program at Ball High School on Galveston Island with funds from the Texas Coastal Monitoring Program. The program expanded to 3 schools in 1999. Currently the BEG is looking for additional funding in order to expand the Monitoring Program to other coastal schools.The Texas High School Coastal Monitoring Program was started by the Bureau of Economic Geology (BEG), the University of Texas at Austin in 1997. Scientists at the BEG started the program at Ball High School on Galveston Island with funds from the Texas Coastal Monitoring Program. The program expanded to 3 schools in 1999. Currently the BEG is looking for additional funding in order to expand the Monitoring Program to other coastal schools.

3. Three goals of the Texas High School Coastal Monitoring Program Provide students with an inquiry-base learning experience. Students work with scientists from the University of Texas at Austin to collect data about Texas beaches. The data is then used by the scientists to monitor shoreline change rates. The most important aspect of this program is that students are collected REAL data that is used by REAL scientists. Increase public awareness and understanding of coastal processes and hazards. First we hope that the students involved in the program will talk with their peers, teachers, parents, and friends about their participation in the Program. Second, the student collected data is posted on the Texas High School Coastal Monitoring Programs website. Anyone with access to the internet can view and download the data. The Program has also been publized through several newspaper articles. For scientists and students to gain a better understanding of the relationship between coastal processes, beach morphology, and shoreline change, and make data and findings available for solving coastal management problems.Three goals of the Texas High School Coastal Monitoring Program Provide students with an inquiry-base learning experience. Students work with scientists from the University of Texas at Austin to collect data about Texas beaches. The data is then used by the scientists to monitor shoreline change rates. The most important aspect of this program is that students are collected REAL data that is used by REAL scientists. Increase public awareness and understanding of coastal processes and hazards. First we hope that the students involved in the program will talk with their peers, teachers, parents, and friends about their participation in the Program. Second, the student collected data is posted on the Texas High School Coastal Monitoring Programs website. Anyone with access to the internet can view and download the data. The Program has also been publized through several newspaper articles. For scientists and students to gain a better understanding of the relationship between coastal processes, beach morphology, and shoreline change, and make data and findings available for solving coastal management problems.

4. Schools Participating in the Texas High School Coastal Monitoring Program: Ball High School on Galveston Island, Port Aransas High School on Mustang Island, and Port Isabel High School in Port Isabel but studying South Padre Island.Schools Participating in the Texas High School Coastal Monitoring Program: Ball High School on Galveston Island, Port Aransas High School on Mustang Island, and Port Isabel High School in Port Isabel but studying South Padre Island.

5. Upon arriving at the first field trip site, students are given a brief overview of the Texas High School Coastal Monitoring Program, the tasks they are going to complete, and island’s shoreline change history.Upon arriving at the first field trip site, students are given a brief overview of the Texas High School Coastal Monitoring Program, the tasks they are going to complete, and island’s shoreline change history.

6. Beach Measurements Topographic transect oriented perpendicular to the shoreline. For comparison through time, profiles are measured from the same starting point landward of the beach and oriented in the same direction. Purpose: Provide quantitative morphological data and shoreline and vegetation line positions Method: Measure relative changes in beach topography using Emery rods and tape measure Equipment: Emery rods Tape measure (at least 5m) Hand sighting level Survey flags Sighting compass Data forms and clipboard

8. Examples of beach profile data collected by Port Aransas High School students on Mustang Island.Examples of beach profile data collected by Port Aransas High School students on Mustang Island.

9. Processes measurements Estimates of processes acting on the beach: wind direction and speed; wave breaker type; surf zone width; wave direction, height, and period; number of apparent longshore bars; longshore current Purpose: Explore relationship between processes and beach changes. Over time these data may be used to “calibrate”, for a specific beach location, data acquired by weather and wave stations in the area. Encourage students to systematically observe processes that surround them Method: Visual observations averaged among three observers. Float and stopwatch for longshore current. Hand-held wind gauge Equipment: Tape measure Sighting compass wind gauge 3 floats Data forms and clipboard

10. Examples of students making wind, wave, current, and beach observations.Examples of students making wind, wave, current, and beach observations.

11. Form completed by students making beach observations.Form completed by students making beach observations.

12. Shoreline Measurements Horizontal (no elevation) survey of the vegetation line and shoreline. Shoreline and foredune trends. Measurement of beach cusps Purpose: Provide quantitative data on the position and trend of the shoreline and the longshore spacing and relief of beach cusps Method: Differential Global Positioning System walking survey Equipment: Differential Global Positioning System (GPS) receiver Emery rods Digital camera Sighting level Sighting Compass Tape measure Data forms and clipboard

13. Students mapping the vegetation line using a global positioning system.Students mapping the vegetation line using a global positioning system.

14. GPS mapped shorelines for profile site MUI01 on Mustang Island. The GPS shorelines are mapped on infrared aerial photography in Geographic Information Systems (GIS) software. Note the Horace Caldwell Fishing Pier in the upper right hand corner of the photo.GPS mapped shorelines for profile site MUI01 on Mustang Island. The GPS shorelines are mapped on infrared aerial photography in Geographic Information Systems (GIS) software. Note the Horace Caldwell Fishing Pier in the upper right hand corner of the photo.

15. Students involved with the Texas High School Coastal Monitoring Program during the 2002-2003 academic year.Students involved with the Texas High School Coastal Monitoring Program during the 2002-2003 academic year.

16. Beach Features

17. Barrier Island System Schematic map of geologic environments in a barrier island system. We will be looking at a cross section along A-A’.Schematic map of geologic environments in a barrier island system. We will be looking at a cross section along A-A’.

18. Cross section view along the line A to A' from the last figure. At least three times during the school year, students collect quantitative geomorphic and sedimentologic data that describe the seaward beach (a point behind the foredune crest to the waterline). Students conducting topographic profiles make notes about the features of the beach including the foredune crest, vegetation line, berm and berm crest, wet/dry line, and waterline.Cross section view along the line A to A' from the last figure. At least three times during the school year, students collect quantitative geomorphic and sedimentologic data that describe the seaward beach (a point behind the foredune crest to the waterline). Students conducting topographic profiles make notes about the features of the beach including the foredune crest, vegetation line, berm and berm crest, wet/dry line, and waterline.

19. Hand plotted data from beach profile BEG02 (Galveston Island State Park). Profiles were plotted from 2 different time periods. They were compared to determine volume change in the dunes and on the beach face.Hand plotted data from beach profile BEG02 (Galveston Island State Park). Profiles were plotted from 2 different time periods. They were compared to determine volume change in the dunes and on the beach face.

20. Tropical Storm Frances

21. Tropical Storm Frances September 7-13, 1998 Extensive beach and dune erosion and damage to structures. Storm surge peaked at 1.4 meters above mean sea level. Peak wave height = 4.09 meters Extreme water levels (>0.78 meters) lasted 64 hours and extreme wave heights (>2.3 meters) lasted 73 hours.

23. Photo of BEG02 profile site on April 28, 1998. Note the picnic shelters behind the dune crest at the extreme left side of the photo and the lush vegetation.Photo of BEG02 profile site on April 28, 1998. Note the picnic shelters behind the dune crest at the extreme left side of the photo and the lush vegetation.

24. BEG02 Post-Tropical Storm Frances Photo of same site as previous slide from October 22, 1998, a little over a month after Tropical Storm Frances. The dunes in this area were completely destroyed during Frances. The storm-generated waves overtopped the dunes and transported the sand into the parking lot at Galveston Island State Park. This “washover” sand was then bulldozed seaward to create a new foredune system. That is the ridge of sand you are seeing in this photo. These dunes are not natural.Photo of same site as previous slide from October 22, 1998, a little over a month after Tropical Storm Frances. The dunes in this area were completely destroyed during Frances. The storm-generated waves overtopped the dunes and transported the sand into the parking lot at Galveston Island State Park. This “washover” sand was then bulldozed seaward to create a new foredune system. That is the ridge of sand you are seeing in this photo. These dunes are not natural.

25. Coastal Processes We are now going to take a look at the processes that shape the coastal environment.We are now going to take a look at the processes that shape the coastal environment.

26. Waves There are 3 forces that form waves: wind, earthquakes, and gravitational attractions between Earth, Sun, and Moon. Ocean waves are typically formed by the wind (friction between the wind and the waters surface). The size of a wave depends upon the wind speed, length of time wind blows in the same direction, and the fetch (distance over which the wind blows). Wind waves will continue as long as the wind is blowing. Once the wind stops the waves will continue until all of their energy is dissipated.

28. Wave Motion Water particles in waves move in a nearly stationary circular motion. At the surface, the orbit is ~ equal to the wave height. The orbits decreases in size downward through water column to a depth of L/2. Breaking occurs when crest angle is less than 120º or a steepness (H/L) greater than 1/7.

29. Breaker Types Spilling Breaker-gentle beach slope, waves break far from shore and surf gently rolls over the front of the wave Plunging Breaker-moderately steep beach slope, less steep wave, slightly longer period, wave curls over forming a tunnel until wave breaks Surging Breaker-steep beach slope, low wave of long period, doesn’t actually break-wave rolls onto beach

30. Tides Tides are actually waves. They are caused by the gravitational forces of the Earth, Moon, and Sun. Tides are caused by a relationship between mass of the above celestial objects as well as their distance from Earth. The moon orbits the Earth once every 27 days and 8 hours. Therefore, the tides move up 50 minutes every day. High tide is generated by the pull of the moon upon global waters. There is an equal pull on the opposite side of the Earth from the moon. Spring tides occur when the Earth, sun, and moon line up (new and full moon-2x during the lunar month). Spring tides have the largest tidal ranges. Neap tides occur when the moon is in the first and third quarter (tidal range smallest).

31. Galveston Pleasure Pier Predicted tides for Galveston Pleasure Pier, June 2003. Spring tides have the largest tidal range – largest difference between high and low tide.Predicted tides for Galveston Pleasure Pier, June 2003. Spring tides have the largest tidal range – largest difference between high and low tide.

32. Galveston Pleasure Pier-June 2003 Predicted and actual tide levels for June 2003 at Galveston Pleasure Pier. Notice that the observed tides do not always match the observed water levels.Predicted and actual tide levels for June 2003 at Galveston Pleasure Pier. Notice that the observed tides do not always match the observed water levels.

33. Hurricane Claudette Water Levels Corpus Christi July 10-20, 2003 Water level measurements from tide gauges on Bob Hall Pier and at the Texas State Aquarium. Bob Hall Pier is an open water (extends into the Gulf of Mexico) fishing pier on the north end of Padre Island, just north of the Padre Island National Seashore boundary. The Texas State Aquarium is located at the head of Corpus Christi Bay. Notice the difference between an open water gauge and one in a bay.Water level measurements from tide gauges on Bob Hall Pier and at the Texas State Aquarium. Bob Hall Pier is an open water (extends into the Gulf of Mexico) fishing pier on the north end of Padre Island, just north of the Padre Island National Seashore boundary. The Texas State Aquarium is located at the head of Corpus Christi Bay. Notice the difference between an open water gauge and one in a bay.