2.0 Installation Instructions

1. 2.0 Installation Instructions

2. Important notice before you begin The PinzSSI 2.0 system requires the correct voltage and a good ground in order to run properly. It is advised that you verify the voltage and charge rate before installing the system. Proper testing of the charging system is not complicated or difficult. Each battery should read about 13-14 volts between posts with the engine running. Note- a defective starter could be drawing excessive current at start! The purpose of the voltage converter is to supply the engine control module with level and correct voltage over a wide range of voltage input conditions, 10-95VDC. It also acts as a firewall to prevent voltage spikes from both the positive and negative side, as well as protect against potential damage from load dumps. Verify that the fan belt is tensioned correctly, and read the directions completely before beginning! The 2 green wires from the harness MUST be grounded properly or the system may not function correctly. This means the batteries must be properly tied to the frame electrically. A weak or missing ground strap could cause problems. Run a second ground to the frame if necessary.

4. Original distributor, coil, and plug wires- old, inefficient 70s technology.

5. Your PinzSSI 2.0 kit will contain these items.

6. Packing List Coil/Converter assembly Spark Plugs (4) Spark Plug Wires (4) Module/Harness Assembly Aluminum Stem Black plastic cap w/disc ¼” Wire loom (4’) Printed Instructions Battery tap fuse connector L-bracket Parts package* • *Parts package includes: • Grounding screw • Boot grease • Vacuum plug • Plug wire spacers • Zip ties • Drill bit • Cap • Accessory tap wire • Extra screw Be sure to use the correct tool for crimping the butt sleeve. Otherwise, the connection may eventually fail. This is very important! Use the heat shrink.

7. Cut ignition feed here Begin by removing the coil and bracket, suppressor, and distributor. Cut off the ignition power source wire at the suppressor connection and cap with the provided connector. Stripping the wire is not recommended.

8. Plug vacuum port Remove spark plugs and wires. Remove vacuum line and block the vacuum port with the provided plug. Remove the pinch clamp from the distributor and save for use on the new ignition module.

9. Remove the bolt near the top of the driver’s side coil spring. This holds the heater hose clamp in place as shown.

10. Using the longer provided bolt, install the mounting L-bracket. Note- your bracket may be black.

11. Place the pinch clamp onto the stem, move to the point where it contacts the collar. Oil lower shaft lightly, especially on the o-ring. Be sure the clamp is positioned correctly as shown, not upside-down.

12. Notches It is important to line up the notches correctly before installing the stem into the block. Remove the small spring visible inside the block. When the module is fully seated, install the 13 mm bolt and tighten. Note-there will be a gap between the pinch clamp and the shoulder of the stem, do not try to force it all the way in. The stem shaft can be rotated as required to line up the notches. When the stem is seated correctly, the shaft will not turn by hand, you will feel that it is engaged correctly. Never force the stem down, it should seat correctly with minimal effort. Don’t use a hammer!

13. This is how the stem should look once installed and fully seated. Verify that the 13mm clamp hold-down bolt is tight, and the 10mm pinch bolt is snug but allows for rotation at this time.

14. C-clip Remove screw On the module assembly, remove one screw as shown and set it aside. Loosen the other screw just enough to where no threads show through the nut insert. This will allow the c-clip to swing freely so it can be mounted on the stem. If you can’t get it to seat, remove the other screw and reinstall individually while holding the c-clip in place. Note- do not install the c-clip upside down, or else the inserts will pull out when you tighten the screws.

15. Preparing to install the module onto the stem.

16. For clarity, these two photos are taken on a work bench instead of on the engine. There is a slot near the top of the stem. Carefully install the module onto the stem until the c-clip lines up with this slot and can be rotated into place. (Note- the harness must line up with the exit opening in the base. Position so the harness is as close to the engine as possible where it exits) Be patient, the clip will fall into place when the module is momentarily oriented correctly. When the clip is in place, rotate it until it engages the slot completely. (Note- the metal inserts in the c-clip must face downward as shown.) Install the screw that was removed previously. Tighten both screws equally, but do not overtighten. The module should sit square and centered on the stem.

17. Harness Run the harness over the top of the engine as shown. Secure the harness into place by tying to the power brake vacuum line, using the cable ties. Secure near the module as required.

18. Drill a hole into the frame through the small hole between the coil and converter. This is where the ground screw will go. This also helps to hold the assembly securely in place. Mount the coil/converter assembly on the bracket and tighten the nut.

19. Now all of the connections can be made at the coil and converter

20. First, make the 2 ground connections using the provided stainless screw. There are 2 green grounds that exit the harness near the converter, put both together and tighten the screw and washer. • Next, plug the harness into the voltage converter until it clicks. • At the coil, the 4 wires are connected as follows, routing under the throttle rod- • Orange connects to screw A • Green (ground) connects to screw – (negative) • Black connects to screw + (positive) • White connects to screw B • Note- an extra small screw is included in case you lose one, which is easy to do. Use a magnetic screwdriver or make the connections before bolting the assembly into place. • Note- The positive + screw is also the point where the accessory tap is made, which is the purple pigtail. You can connect up to 7 amps of electrical load to this wire for a phone charger, radio, GPS, etc. Do not exceed 7 amps or short this wire, or the fuse could blow at the battery and the engine will stop. • The lead that exits the harness about 16” from the module will connect to one of the fuel stop solenoids on the front carburetor, whichever is easier.

21. This schematic shows the path that high voltage takes to jump 2 plugs every time that pistons are at TDC in cylinders 1-4 and 2-3. Each plug fires 3 times to ensure complete combustion. This is commonly called a waste-spark ignition system. Google for more info on this type of ignition.

22. The last lead connects to the front carb at the fuel solenoid. Disconnect the solenoid, plug in the lead, then re-connect the harness to the male tab. This photo shows the solenoid when disconnected. Make sure all solenoid connections are tight!

23. 24 volt feed Route the red wire (power feed) to the battery box from the rear. There may be sufficient room to push the wire through an existing hole, or you may have to drill a 5/16” hole. Cover the red wire with plastic loom when done. Connect the fused lead (with the fuse removed) to the 24 volt battery post, adding a washer. Connect the fused lead to the red wire, allowing enough slack to for the battery tray to easily move. Crimp the butt sleeve with the correct tool and install the heat shrink. Do not allow the red wire to contact sharp metal edges unless covered. Note- DO NOT use a lighter to heat the shrink, as any battery can explode under the right conditions! Use a heat gun or move the shrink a safe distance from the batteries. Install the 10 amp fuse and prepare to set the timing.

24. Setting the ignition timing Using a 27mm socket and ratchet, rotate the engine until the notch on the pulley lines up with the pointer. Always rotate the engine clockwise while facing as shown. Never rotate the engine backwards during the following procedure, as inaccuracies may result due to gear lash clearances.

25. Included with the kit is a small bag which contains a slotted disc, along with a washer, lock washer, and screw. Position the disc as shown and slide it to the right over the stem shaft so it is centered on the hole. Install the washer, lock washer, and screw and tighten to the point where the disc still turns freely. Note- the washer may be brass. A small amount of blue Loc-Tite is OK on the screw. Note- if the disc becomes dirty it can send a false signal to the module, which can result in a no-start or the engine stopping. KEEP THE DISC CLEAN!

26. Rotate module/shaft assembly second LED Pointer lines up with notch Rotate and tighten disc first Pinch clamp • Verify that the pointer is still positioned at the pulley notch. • Turn the key on, but do not crank the engine. • Slowly rotate the disc until the red LED comes on. DO NOT bend or distort the disc! • Note-The LED is the signal to the module that the crank is at TDC and timing can be adjusted to fire spark plugs 1 and 4. Spark plugs 2 and 3 fire 180 crank degrees later. • Tighten screw while holding the disc stationary. • Rotate the engine twice, carefully watching the LED. The light should come on exactly when the notch and pointer line up. If the light comes on before or after the pointer and notch line up, loosen the pinch clamp and adjust by rotating the module/shaft. Rotate the engine again and check. Repeat until you get it right, it will take several attempts. Patience pays! Check again after tightening the pinch clamp. • Note- advancing the timing slightly is OK, use personal preference and common sense.

27. Timing Tips In the upper photo, the LED comes on after the notch passes the pointer, which is after top dead center for the piston. This is called retarded timing, so it has to be advanced. To advance the timing, rotate the module shaft counter-clockwise slightly and check again. In the lower photo, the timing is advanced, because the LED comes on before the notch meets the pointer. The timing should be retarded, which is done by rotating the module shaft clock- wise slightly. It may take several attempts before you get the LED to come on when the pointer and the notch line up. Once you have this accomplished, tighten the pinch clamp and check the timing again. Quite often, the timing will change when the clamp is tightened. Having the timing advanced a millimeter or two is OK, but never leave the timing retarded- ATDC. This will result in hard starting and poor performance. Having the timing too advanced can result in engine damage over time. Notch LED Notch LED

28. Protruding from the harness near the coil is a short green wire. This is the tachometer wire, and gives 1 pulse for every 2 crankshaft revolutions. Your tachometer may have to be adjusted for this. This is a digital signal that may not work with older tachometers. If you don’t have a tach you can cut the green tire off and insert into the plastic loom or just leave it as is. Gap spark plugs at .6mm-.7mm. Install the spark plugs and wires, routing as shown in the photo. Use the boot grease or you may not be able to disconnect the wires later without damaging them! The wires are marked for easy identification, and the corresponding cylinder# is also marked at the coil near each post. Note- verify that connections are correct at the coil, or 2 cylinders at minimum will not fire.

29. Your engine should look something like this when you are finished.

30. Congratulations, installation is complete! Your Pinzgauer should start right up at this time. Voltage between +12 and green should be about 12 volts all the time, key on or off. If you suspect a problem with PinzSSI 2.0, check voltage at this point first.

31. The module is a computer which takes readings from the optical sensor and sends the info to the CPU. This includes RPM and rate of engine acceleration/deceleration. The CPU adjusts the ignition timing based on this input information. The timing is 0 degrees BTDC while the engine cranks, and jumps to normal advance at about 300 RPM. From there the maximum total advance reaches 38 degrees at about 3500 RPM. It is important to set the timing static (timing set with engine not running) at 0 degrees, or TDC, because this is the reference point that the computer uses for the rest of the curve.

32. This is a typical 4-cylinder OHC engine. The 1 and 4 pistons are at TDC while pistons 2 and 3 are at BDC. This design keeps vibration to a minimum. If this were a Pinzgauer engine, the plugs in 1 and 4 cylinders would be firing, regardless of which cylinder is at the beginning the of the power stroke.

34. CAUTION NGK BPR6ES resistor spark plugs included with the kit MUST be used at all times, along with resistor plug wires. Always replace the spark plugs/wires with the same resistor type. Failure to do so could damage the module or result in poor performance. Or both! Replacement wires need to be 800 ohms/ft. PinzSSI has individual replacement wires in stock for $10 each or $35/set plus $7.20 shipping. Also, never crank the engine with any spark plug wires disconnected, unless you have the 10 amp fuse pulled. Failure to do so could damage the ignition coil/module, which is NOT covered under warranty. Questions? Comments? Need parts? Then contact us at 760-775-5160. We promptly return all calls if you leave a message.

35. Troubleshooting If you suspect trouble with the PinzSSI, take these troubleshooting steps before asking for assistance. First, make sure the plug wires are connected correctly. The disc and lens should be clean. Verify power to the module. Make sure that the ground connection next to the coil is good. Turn on the key and rotate the engine until the trigger slot passes under the optical pickup. The red LED next to the pickup should turn on. If it doesn’t, verify 24 volts at the fuel solenoid. If there is no voltage at the solenoid, the problem is with the vehicle wiring, possibly a breaker or fuse. LED Trigger slot Optical pickup The voltage between + and – should always be about 12 volts with the key on or off. Disconnect the lead from the solenoid. While cranking the engine (it won’t start with the that lead disconnected), measure battery voltage between positive and negative posts. If it drops 3V or more, there could be a problem with the batteries (or starter), so they should be fully charged and then load tested. PinzSSI 2.0 may not start if the battery voltage drops below a certain threshold. A bad alternator, regulator, cable, or battery could cause this. Ask your mechanic.

36. Return Policy PinzSSI will accept returns postmarked within 14 days of initial delivery for a full refund. Returns will not be accepted without prior authorization, and the customer is responsible for shipping and insurance. The ignition system MUST be packed correctly (as received) to prevent damage. Any damaged part will be deducted from the refund, and the module will have to be tested by the factory for verification of operation. This can take 2 weeks. If you suspect a defective part, contact PinzSSI by telephone to arrange replacement. PinzSSI will not replace a defective part until it has been received. If the part turns out to be OK, shipping must be pre-paid before the part is returned. PinzSSI pays for shipping of defective parts to you under the warranty. A $50 fee applies to testing modules that ultimately test OK, plus return shipping. If you have a question about installing the ignition, or have problems, contact PinzSSI by telephone, NOT by email. Your call will be returned the same day if you get the answering machine. 760.775.5160. International customers ONLY can email- pinzssi@outlook.com PinzSSI is limited to advice on the ignition system ONLY, we will not assist in diagnosing other problems with your Pinzgauer. See a qualified mechanic if it still doesn’t run right, PinzSSI can only cure ignition problems- not fuel system, electrical, or other engine related problems.