Chapter 2 Evolution of Fashion

1. Chapter 2 Evolution of Fashion

2. 2.1 古埃及、巴比伦及亚述服装Ancient egypt, babylonian and assyrian style

3. Schenti or Lion cloth Candys with fringe Embroidered sheath gown

4. Pleated kalasiris (褶裥”卡拉西利丝) Gathered cape (碎褶披肩)

5. Ancient greece style (古希腊服装风格)

6. Corset and fitted dress Lonic chition Doric woolen chiton

7. The flaring skirt was fitted at the hips, ankle-length and hand several rows of ruffles.

8. Man in himation Double girded chiton

9. 古罗马服装风格Ancient rome style

10. Undertunic ,stola,palla Purple stola,gold embroidery

11. Senator white toga with purple bands And boots Knight white toga and tunic purple bands

12. Toga was much larger, heavier and complicated. It was a semicircle in shape.

13. 拜占庭服装风格byzantine style

14. Plaid woolen tunic, woolen mantle, Gold jewelry Fur jumper, Cross gartering

15. The shorted stola to show the undergarment

16. Both sexes wore a long ,straight tunic with long sleeves

17. Gothic style 哥特风格

18. 歌特时期的服装优雅精致且复杂华丽，由专门的裁缝师缝制。典型的特征是修长苗条，设计注重腰部，色彩强调明快。男装不再与女装相似。13世纪的女装依旧非常贴体，或宽松穿着，或系腰带。到14世纪，女装的上半部分开始用系带勒紧，领口宽大，并开始采用扣子。裙子从臀围开始展开，配有很夸张的腰带。歌特时期的服装优雅精致且复杂华丽，由专门的裁缝师缝制。典型的特征是修长苗条，设计注重腰部，色彩强调明快。男装不再与女装相似。13世纪的女装依旧非常贴体，或宽松穿着，或系腰带。到14世纪，女装的上半部分开始用系带勒紧，领口宽大，并开始采用扣子。裙子从臀围开始展开，配有很夸张的腰带。

19. 女装渐渐上下分开，上衣部分很合体。 “苏尔考特”（Sucot）是当时很流行的外衣。袖窿开得极低直至腰线，使腰部得以体现。到哥特晚期，女装轮廓变得非常苗条。紧身的上衣V型领开得很身很低。腰线或腰带上提至胸部。裙子的后裙裾变得很长。

21. 男装筒型衣开始变窄变短，并在前面开始使用扣子。外衣由以往长及小腿逐渐演变成了长及臀围的短外衣“达布里特”（doublet）。“达布里特”腰部收窄，前面合体，领口用扣子或裁得很低。前胸和袖子的上半部分充填成型。领子高至下巴。类似披风的外衣“豪普兰德”（houppelande）, 开始流行。长款或长及膝盖的无袖圆领斗篷“曼特”(manteau)披在筒型衣的外面。

23. Long • Slender designs with an emphasis on the waist and bright color • Man’s clothing lost its similarity to women’s clothing

24. 文艺复兴风格 renaissance style

25. “文艺复兴”字面的意思是再生，即重现希腊罗马时期的文明。但实际上是从中世纪向现代文明的过渡。丰富多彩的服装广泛采用锦缎、花缎及天鹅绒等华贵的面料，并镶嵌大量缎带、滚边、丝带、刺绣及花边等装饰材料。文艺复兴时期女装的主要特点是肩部窄小、腰部紧贴、臀部夸张。紧身胸衣是当时的一大创新。“文艺复兴”字面的意思是再生，即重现希腊罗马时期的文明。但实际上是从中世纪向现代文明的过渡。丰富多彩的服装广泛采用锦缎、花缎及天鹅绒等华贵的面料，并镶嵌大量缎带、滚边、丝带、刺绣及花边等装饰材料。文艺复兴时期女装的主要特点是肩部窄小、腰部紧贴、臀部夸张。紧身胸衣是当时的一大创新。

26. 由此裙子可以在紧束腰线下方的腹部大幅度展开。与外裙有着鲜明对比色的里裙带有刺绣宽边或者鹅绒镶边。里裙下面是裙撑。袖子与袖窿用带子系在一起，因此不同服装的袖子可以互换。到文艺复兴晚期, 西班牙风格的服装优雅壮观,但也变得僵硬、不舒适，色彩也变得暗淡。

27. 男装外型宽阔以至成箱形, 由衬衫、筒型外衣、及紧身裤袜构成。肩部、袖子及裤子都加有人工衬垫。衬衫相当宽松，领口和袖口都有抽褶，并用金线或黑白丝线刺绣抽褶边。服装各个部位都采用切口和分片，以显露出里面不同颜色不同面料的宽松衬衣。在文艺复兴早期，领口通常为圆形、V形或方形低领，后期领口升高并用轮状皱领装饰。拉夫领越来越大越来越挺，以至最后形成了服装的一个独立部分。

30. 1800-1825 Bonaparte(波拿巴)'s Influence on Fashion 1804

32. Napoleon Bonaparte crowned Emperor in 1804 was keen(喜欢) to make France a leader of fashion and innovator(革新) of design and craft(工艺) skills.

33. During the French Revolution the French textile industry had suffered and unlike in England, use of textile machinery had been non existent.

34. Emperor Napoleon stopped the import of English textiles and he revived the Valenciennes lace industry so that fine fabrics like tulle(纱) and batiste(上等亚麻) could be made there.

36. 1790

37. The Empire Style 1800 The high waisted graceful styles of early 19th century are known as the Empire style. The Empire dress which evolved in the late 1700s began as a chemise(女式无袖衬衫) shift gathered under the breasts and at the neck.

38. Named after The First Empire, by 1800 it had a very low square neckline, a short narrow backed bodice(紧身围腰) and separate skirt. The small neat puff sleeves barely capped the shoulder.

40. The gown shown is of woven cotton with fringe trimming

42. Regency dress in the period 1800-1820

43. Underwear

44. The Fabrics for Empire Line Dresses The fabric for Empire dresses was usually fine white lawn(细麻布), muslin (平纹细布)or batiste(毛织物). Although muslins were less costly than silks, good white work lawn fabrics still cost money.

45. Muslin also laundered(熨烫) better than silks, but the white muslins still needed a great deal of attention to keep them looking pristine clean. White gowns generally were kept for evening and in the day pastel(柔和) or coloured robes(长袍) were thought more suitable.

46. Rise and Fall of the Waistline 1815-1825 In 1815 with the Napoleonic wars over, Britain began to follow French fashion trends for wearing a high waistline.

47. The waistline reached its peak height in 1816-17 when the line fell directly under the breasts. Almost as soon as the waist had risen, 1818 fashion plates began to show the waistline dropping and tightening. It continued to drop annually by an inch, until by 1825 it was at last in its normal position.