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Chapter 18 Ocean Motion Chapter 19 Oceanography. Chapter 18.3 and 19.1 Notes Guide. Waves. A __wave___ is a rhythmic movement that carries energy through matter in space. In the ocean, waves move through _seawater__. Waves look like __hills__ and valleys.
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Chapter 18 Ocean MotionChapter 19 Oceanography Chapter 18.3 and 19.1 Notes Guide
Waves • A __wave___ is a rhythmic movement that carries energy through matter in space. • In the ocean, waves move through _seawater__. Waves look like __hills__ and valleys. • Waves are created by friction from ___wind_____.
Waves Continued • The __crest_____ is the high point of a wave. • The __trough___ is the low point of a wave. • Wavelength is the horizontal distance between the crests or between the troughs of two waves. • Wave height is the vertical distance between crest and trough. • Half the distance of the wave height is called the amplitude of a wave.
Wave Movement • As a wave passes, only _energy_ moves forward, while the water molecules move around in _circles__ and stay near their original position. • Waves break as they approach the shore, and drag along the bottom, causing them to eventually collapse.
Formation of Waves • When wind blows across a body of water, wind __energy__ is transferred to the water. If the wind speed is great enough, the water begins to pile up and a __wave__ is formed.
Tides • The rise and fall in sea level is called a _tide___. A tide is giant __wave___ produced by the _gravitational___ pull of the _Earth__ and the __Sun__. • A tide is a form of wave, but it is _thousands__ of meters long. • As the crest of the wave approaches shore, sea level appears to _rise__. This is _high_ _tide__.
Tides • As the trough of the wave approaches shore, sea level appears to _drop. This is called __low__ __tide___. • The _tidal__ _range_ is the difference between the level of ocean at high and low tide.
Gravitational Pull • The ___moon______, not the __sun______ has most effect on the tides. • However, the sun can __increase_____ or ___decrease____ the moon’s effects of tides. • When the sun, earth and moon are lined up together, the combined pull causes ___spring ____ __tide_______. During spring tides, the high tides are __higher_______ and the low tides are __lower____ than normal. • When the sun, earth and moon form a right angle, ___neap______tides_____ occur. During neap tides, high tides are __low_____ and low tides are _high_______ than normal
Spring Tide New Moon Earth Full Moon Sun Spring Tide
Neap Tide 3rd Quarter Sun Earth 1st Quarter Neap Tide
Map of Ocean Topography Continental Shelf Abyssal Plain Continental Slope
The Ocean Basins • __Ocean_______ basins which are low areas of the Earth have many features. • -The ____continental__shelf____ is the gradually sloping end of a continent that extends under the ocean. • -The ____ continental __slope_______ extends from the outer edge of a continent shelf down to the ocean floor. • -The ____ continental __ _rise_____ is an area of sediment directly after the continental slope. • -The __abyssal___ __plain___ is the flat ocean floor that are 4,000 to 6,000 m below the surface of the ocean.
The Ocean Basins • -A _mid___-_ocean___ ridge is an area in the ocean basin where new ocean floor is formed. • -A _trench__ is the deepest part of the ocean floor, and is defined as a long, narrow, steep sided, depression where one crustal plate sinks beneath each other. • -A __hydrothermal vent_ is also called a black smoker and are commonly found near mid-ocean ridges or hot spots. • - A _seamount__ is a undersea volcano that no longer erupts. • - A _guyot__ is a flap topped seamount. • -A _submarine canyon_ is a deeply incised, steep-walled, commonly V-shaped in profile that is cut into the rocks and sediments of the outer continental shelf and slope.
Sonar • _Sonar__ – An acronym for sound navigation and ranging, an instrument used to locate objects under water by reflecting sound waves. • Mapping by sonar from ships. • Mapping By sonar from satellites
