Dry wall

1. Dry wall By:Ashley,Nick,Thomas,cole

2. Drywall saw

3. Drywall T-Square

4. Drywall Lift

5. Drywall Tape Mesh Paper

6. Drywall • Drywall is a construction material used to create walls and ceilings. It's also used to create many design features, including eaves, arches and other architectural specialties.

7. Green board • Green board drywall is the same as regular drywall except for two things: • 1.) green board drywall has a water- resistant paper covering, and • 2.) the paper covering for green board drywall is, as the name implies, green

8. Concrete backer board • Concrete backer board is usually used as an underlayment for ceramic tile. It can be used on walls, floors or countertops. • Concrete backer board has a solid concrete core and is faced on both sides with fibreglass. It's an ideal underlayment for wet areas like shower walls and bathtub surrounds

9. 3 estimate materials for dry walling • 1.Joint compound : You’ll need roughly a gallon for every 100 square feet of drywall • 2.Joint tape : To finish 500 square feet of drywall, you will need roughly 400 feet of tape • 3. Nails/Screws : This varies depending on stud spacing (walls framed 16 inches on center require more fasteners than those framed at 24 inches) and on nail or screw schedule (panels fastened with adhesive require fewer fasteners).

10. How to layout and cut drywall • 1. Keep cuts to a minimum. Try to use as many full sheets of drywall as possible. • 2. All vertical edges should line up with the center of a stud. A joint that falls over an empty bay between studs will be too weak. Drywall panels are sized to fit perfectly on studs spaced 16 or 24 inches on center.

11. Cont. • 3. Use a tape measure or the T-square to measure the size needed. Mark the edge of the drywall. • 4. Align the T-square with the mark, bracing the bottom with your foot. Slide the utility knife along the edge of the T-square. Make one continuous, smooth cut from end to end. The object is to score the paper coating and a bit of the gypsum core.

12. Cont #2 • 5. Snap the drywall back quickly, creating a crease in the backing paper. If your first effort looks a little ragged, don’t fret. It will get easier with more experience.

13. How to hang drywall on a wall • Measure the wall and cut the sheet. Drive 1-1/4-inch screws into the panel from the centre outward, spacing them 16 inches apart. Position the lower sheet and screw the panel in place. Cut a piece of drywall to fit between the corner and the previous piece, screw the sheet in place, and then cut a v-groove where the panels meet. When framing outside corners, cut the piece long so that it hangs over the corner then trim it down. Nail in metal corner beads for protection.

14. Why do you hang drywall on the ceiling before the walls • When hanging drywall always work from the top to the bottom. And always run the drywall sheets perpendicular to the framing. • Hang drywall on ceilings before walls, so the sheets on the walls can help support the corners of the ceiling sheets. • Mark joist locations on top plates of the walls so the joists are easier to find when fastening ceiling sheets. • Then mark the stud locations of walls on the ceiling sheets and on the floors so they're easier to find when fastening the wall sheets.

15. Drywall concepts • Drywall Concepts can be more broadly classified into the Specialty Trade Contractors sector, defined as companies whose primary activity is performing specific activities involved in building construction or other activities that are similar for all types of construction, but that are not responsible for the entire project.

16. Factory edge • The paper on the drywall

17. lifter • You can rent a rig called a drywall lift. You load a sheet on it, then crank it up to the ceiling. It holds the sheet in place while you nail or screw it to the joists.

18. But joint • Two factory edges side by side

19. Ripper Helps lift up the drywall

20. What is a corner bead used for? • Installing corner bead is one of the last things you do after hanging drywall, and one of the first things you do before you begin to tape and float (also known as drywall finishing). The purpose for using corner bead is two-fold; first, it gives wall's external corners a nice straight vertical line, and second, it provides a bit of protection from bumps.

21. Corner bead • Corner bead is a material that is used on the corners of walls in drywall construction to make the corners crisp and professional looking. In addition to making area look neater, it also reinforces the corners, making them less prone to denting and other types of damage.

22. Step one to applying plaster to walls Step One: Prepare The Room • Clear the area of furniture and spread plenty of plastic sheeting over the floor. If you are plastering over new plasterboard, press scrim tape over all the board joints and screw metal reinforcing angle bead to all external corners.

23. Step two Step Two: Mix The Plaster • Mix your plaster according the instructions on the bag. Always add the plaster to the water and use a clean mixing bucket. It’s essential to mix the powder and water thoroughly so that you have a thick, creamy consistency with no lumps. A paddle accessory fitted to a corded electric drill is the best method of mixing. Plaster can set in minutes, especially in the summer, so only mix an amount you can use immediately. Don’t add new plaster to an older mix and don’t add water to the plaster to try and make it more workable.

24. Step three Step Three: Apply The Base Coat • Scrape a trowel full of plaster off the mixing board and onto your hawk. Next, transfer half the plaster to your trowel. Keep your trowel wrist straight and use a flicking action with your ‘hawk hand’ to move the plaster from hawk to trowel. • Working from the bottom of the wall, use smooth strokes to press the plaster onto the wall. Gradually narrow the gap between the trowel’s top edge and the wall as you move the tool upwards. Always keep the trowel at a slight angle to the wall at the end of the stroke. If the trowel is flattened against the surface it may pull the new plaster away from the wall.Work over the whole area aiming to apply a base coat - don’t worry about any uneven areas or holes at this stage. This coat should be around 2mm thick. Use the angle beading as a guide when plastering up to external corners.

25. Step four Step Four: Smooth The Surface • Clean around the edges of the wall with a wet paintbrush to remove lumps and lines of plaster that are on the ceiling or adjacent walls.The next stage is to level and smooth the surface but this can only be done when the plaster has hardened slightly but is still pliable. This working time will vary from a few minutes in summer to twenty minutes or more in very damp cold environments. Use your trowel at a very shallow angle to the wall and work over the surface smoothing the surface. You can add a thinner skim of more plaster to fill holes and even out depressions.

26. Step five Step Five: Drying And Polishing • Leave the plaster to dry once more - for around 30 to 40 minutes. Now the plaster can be polished. Wet the face of your trowel and flick water onto the wall with a large paintbrush. The idea is to provide just enough lubrication for your trowel to float over the surface and fill tiny holes and imperfections. Work in regular sweeping strokes and finish with long continuous strokes across the wall. Wash your mixing board and tools as soon as you’ve finished work. Don’t keep opened plaster bags for more than a couple of weeks.

27. How to put tape inside corners • •Using a 5-inch knife, fill the seam and cover 2 inches on either side of the corner with compound. •Cut a piece of tape the full length of the corner; crease it in half lengthwise. With knife, gently push into corner. •Starting in the middle, draw the knife along the drywall, smoothing the tape on one side of the crease. Skew blade 45 degrees to squeeze out excess mud. •Run knife in the same way on the opposite side of the crease. Finish by smoothing back to the starting point.

28. Step #1 Step #2 After you get the hole squared up you need to nail or screw on your backing material. For the top and bottom you will need to hold the board in place with one hand while you  screw with the other. Watch out for your fingers • If you look at the picture below, to the left of the big hole you can see an air bubble deal. Fixing that is not part of my deal with the home owner but, I'm going to do it anyway. The 1st thing you want to do is square the hole up using a keyhole. There are 2 ways of going about this. Some people like to cut the sheet rock back to the middle of the closest stud using a router or utility knife I like to saw mine flush with the edge of the stud and nail on some 1" by 2" chunks of wood. For me it's the fastest way.

29. Step 3 & 4 • Now cut and hang your patch piece of sheet rock. You can see by the picture below,  not only did I screw the patch piece real good, I also screwed the area around the patch. This way everything is good and tight and the patch will not crack. I also dug out the bad air bubble on the left. I do this for a living so in order to make money, I have to go fast.. I am going to be using mesh tape and "Hot Mud” for the 1st coat. • If you're scared of hot mud, you can use regular all purpose joint compound and paper drywall tape. To learn about how to tape with regular mud and paper tape go here How to hand tape If you do use regular mud and paper tape you must wait 24 hours before you can 1st coat, then another 24 hours before you can 2nd coat. • If you decide to use the mesh tape, make sure to use hot mud. If you want to know more about different types of mud (joint compound) click here All about Joint Compound • Stick on the mesh tape, you can see by the pictures how and where to apply the tape.

30. Step 5 • When you're using hot mud, it's good to know the best way to mix it. Pour a little water in your drywall pan 1st. Now slowly pour in a small amount of hot mud powder. Keep stirring up the mud using a 6 inch drywall knife. This takes a little practice. If it gets too thick add a little water, too thin add a little powder. When you get it nice and smooth you are ready to do some coating. On my patch, I'm using "20 minute" mud which means it starts setting up in 15-20 minutes. If you decide to use 20, don't waste too much time mixing it up. You can buy all different speeds (drying times) of hot mud, from 5 to 210 minute.

31. Step 6 • Using a 10 inch taping knife apply the 1st coat on your patch area. It's just too hard for me to explain how to coat.  Just try to get the mud as even as possible. Always keep your pointing finger in the center of the knife (Look at picture). Feather in the outside edges by applying more force on the outside edge of the knife. Don't worry if you leave a few knife lines on the patch. It's only the 1st coat. • Now wait... This is a good time to clean your tools.

32. Step 7 • Okay, it's been about 25 minutes. I just mixed up some regular joint compound to use for the 2nd coat. If you need to know how to mix up mud, you can go back to • All about Joint Compound • Start off by lightly scraping off any edges and high spots from the 1st coat. You don't need to sand anything on this coat. Now using a 12" knife, 2nd coat your patch. Try your best, this is the money coat. Get the mud as even as possible. Always keep your pointer finger in the center of the knife (Look at picture). Feather in the outside edges by applying more force on the outside edge of the knife. You want your 2nd coat to be wider then the 1st coat. See how the 2 small patches turned into 1 big patch? You can see by the pink dotted lines where the original patches were. Don't worry if you leave a few knife lines, we can sand them off tomorrow. That's it for today, let it dry overnight.

33. Step 8 • Here is a picture of our dry patch the next day. You can see by the picture, I am using • a sanding sponge. You can use a piece of sand paper, a wet rag or a sponge.Lightly sand patch down so it's nice and smooth. It's very important to feather and blend the outside edges. You don't want any sharp lines where the patch meets the existing wall. For a professional patch job, you need to "KILL THE OUTSIDE EDGE" 

34. Step 9 • If your patch is smooth, you are ready for primer and paint. If your patch needs to be textured it should be ready to go. Our patch gets a heavy orange peel. If you want to know how to do a knockdown or orange peel click here. • How To Do A Knockdown(Skip Trowel) & Orange Peel Texture • Below you can see a picture of the patch right after the texture has been applied. The other picture is the complete painted patch.

35. Step #1 Step #2

36. Step #3 Step #4

37. Step#5 Step #6

38. Step#7 Step #8

39. Step #9 Step #10

40. Step # 11 Step #12

41. Step #13 Step #14

42. Step #15 Step#16

45. Step #18