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RSM (Coastal Evolution w/ Climate Change)

SIO Waves & Beaches. SIO Waves & Beaches. Observations. Models. Applications. Waves: Directional Buoys. Regional Wave Prediction. Marine Navigation. Islands. Waves: Directional Buoys Waves: PUVs. Nearshore Wave Prediction. Beach Safety Coastal Engineering and Planning. Shelf.

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RSM (Coastal Evolution w/ Climate Change)

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  1. SIO Waves & Beaches SIO Waves & Beaches Observations Models Applications Waves: Directional Buoys Regional Wave Prediction Marine Navigation Islands Waves: Directional Buoys Waves: PUVs Nearshore Wave Prediction Beach Safety Coastal Engineering and Planning Shelf Waves: PUVs Sand: Jetski Surveys Surfzone Wave & Current Prediction Beach Safety (rips) Pathogen Transport (beach closures) Inundation Surf Sand: ATV Surveys Sand: LIDAR Surveys Sediment Transport Prediction RSM (Coastal Evolution w/ Climate Change) Beach

  2. IOOS – National Waves Plan Observations Models Applications Waves: Directional Buoys Regional Wave Prediction Marine Navigation Islands Waves: Directional Buoys Waves: PUVs Nearshore Wave Prediction Beach Safety Coastal Engineering and Planning Shelf Waves: PUVs Sand: Jetski Surveys Surfzone Wave & Current Prediction Beach Safety (rips) Pathogen Transport (beach closures) Inundation Surf Sand: ATV Surveys Sand: LIDAR Surveys Sediment Transport Prediction RSM (Coastal Evolution w/ Climate Change) Beach

  3. SIO Waves & Beaches Observations Models Applications Waves: Directional Buoys Regional Wave Prediction Marine Navigation Islands Waves: Directional Buoys Waves: PUVs Nearshore Wave Prediction Beach Safety Coastal Engineering and Planning Shelf Waves: PUVs Sand: Jetski Surveys Surfzone Wave & Current Prediction Beach Safety (rips) Pathogen Transport (beach closures) Inundation Surf Sand: ATV Surveys Sand: LIDAR Surveys Sediment Transport Prediction RSM (Coastal Evolution w/ Climate Change) Beach Information Flow

  4. Julie: LA/LB Harbor Website Observations Models Applications Waves: Directional Buoys Regional Wave Prediction Marine Navigation Islands Waves: Directional Buoys Waves: PUVs Nearshore Wave Prediction Beach Safety Coastal Engineering and Planning Shelf Waves: PUVs Sand: Jetski Surveys Surfzone Wave & Current Prediction Beach Safety (rips) Pathogen Transport (beach closures) Inundation Surf Sand: ATV Surveys Sand: LIDAR Surveys Sediment Transport Prediction RSM (Coastal Evolution w/ Climate Change) Beach Information Flow

  5. SIO Waves & Beaches Observations Models Applications Waves: Directional Buoys Regional Wave Prediction Marine Navigation Islands Waves: Directional Buoys Waves: PUVs Nearshore Wave Prediction Beach Safety Coastal Engineering and Planning Shelf Waves: PUVs Sand: Jetski Surveys Surfzone Wave & Current Prediction Beach Safety (rips) Pathogen Transport (beach closures) Inundation Surf Sand: ATV Surveys Sand: LIDAR Surveys Sediment Transport Prediction RSM (Coastal Evolution w/ Climate Change) Beach Information Flow

  6. SIO Waves & Beaches Observations Models Applications Waves: Directional Buoys Regional Wave Prediction Marine Navigation Islands Waves: Directional Buoys Waves: PUVs Nearshore Wave Prediction Beach Safety Coastal Engineering and Planning Shelf Waves: PUVs Sand: Jetski Surveys Surfzone Wave & Current Prediction Beach Safety (rips) Pathogen Transport (beach closures) Inundation Surf Sand: ATV Surveys Sand: LIDAR Surveys Sediment Transport Prediction RSM (Coastal Evolution w/ Climate Change) Beach Information Flow

  7. Dr. “Where the Sewer Meets the Surf” Guza : Alongshore Currents Observations Models Applications Waves: Directional Buoys Regional Wave Prediction Marine Navigation Islands Waves: Directional Buoys Waves: PUVs Nearshore Wave Prediction Beach Safety Coastal Engineering and Planning Shelf Waves & Currents: PUVs Sand: Jetski Surveys Surfzone Wave & Current Prediction Beach Safety (rips) Pathogen Transport (beach closures) Inundation Surf Sand: ATV Surveys Sand: LIDAR Surveys Sediment Transport Prediction RSM (Coastal Evolution w/ Climate Change) Beach Information Flow

  8. SIO Waves & Beaches Observations Models Applications Waves: Directional Buoys Regional Wave Prediction Marine Navigation Islands Waves: Directional Buoys Waves: PUVs Nearshore Wave Prediction Beach Safety Coastal Engineering and Planning Shelf Waves & Currents: PUVs Sand: Jetski Surveys Surfzone Wave & Current Prediction Beach Safety (rips) Pathogen Transport (beach closures) Inundation Surf Sand: ATV Surveys Sand: LIDAR Surveys Sediment Transport Prediction RSM (Coastal Evolution w/ Climate Change) Beach Information Flow

  9. SIO Waves & Beaches : Modeling Observations Models Applications Waves: Directional Buoys Regional Wave Prediction Marine Navigation Islands Waves: Directional Buoys Waves: PUVs Nearshore Wave Prediction Beach Safety Coastal Engineering and Planning Shelf Waves & Currents: PUVs Sand: Jetski Surveys Surfzone Wave & Current Prediction Beach Safety (rips) Pathogen Transport (beach closures) Inundation Surf Sand: ATV Surveys Sand: LIDAR Surveys Sediment Transport Prediction RSM (Coastal Evolution w/ Climate Change) Beach Information Flow

  10. SIO Waves & Beaches : Modeling Framework Observations Models Applications Waves: Directional Buoys Regional Wave Prediction Marine Navigation Islands Waves: Directional Buoys Waves: PUVs Nearshore Wave Prediction Beach Safety Coastal Engineering and Planning Shelf Waves & Currents: PUVs Sand: Jetski Surveys Surfzone Wave & Current Prediction Beach Safety (rips) Pathogen Transport (beach closures) Inundation Surf Sand: ATV Surveys Sand: LIDAR Surveys Sediment Transport Prediction RSM (Coastal Evolution w/ Climate Change) Beach Information Flow

  11. Alongcoast Model Prediction “MOP” Sites • - 10m water depth. • - 100m alongshore spacing.

  12. SIO Waves & Beaches : Modeling Framework Observations Models Applications Waves: Directional Buoys Regional Wave Prediction Marine Navigation Islands Waves: Directional Buoys Waves: PUVs Nearshore Wave Prediction Beach Safety Coastal Engineering and Planning Shelf Waves & Currents: PUVs Sand: Jetski Surveys Surfzone Wave & Current Prediction Beach Safety (rips) Pathogen Transport (beach closures) Inundation Surf Sand: ATV Surveys Sand: LIDAR Surveys Sediment Transport Prediction RSM (Coastal Evolution w/ Climate Change) Beach Information Flow

  13. SIO Waves & Beaches : The “Buoy Network Wave Model” Observations Models Applications Waves: Directional Buoys Regional Wave Prediction Marine Navigation Islands Waves: Directional Buoys Waves: PUVs Nearshore Wave Prediction Beach Safety Coastal Engineering and Planning Shelf Waves & Currents: PUVs Sand: Jetski Surveys Surfzone Wave & Current Prediction Beach Safety (rips) Pathogen Transport (beach closures) Inundation Surf Sand: ATV Surveys Sand: LIDAR Surveys Sediment Transport Prediction RSM (Coastal Evolution w/ Climate Change) Beach Information Flow

  14. Buoy Network Model Validation Huntington Beach Case Study Huntington Beach Wave Buoy

  15. Model Validation “Buoy Network” Spectral Refraction Model Offshore Wave Buoys Measure Arriving Swell from the Open Ocean

  16. “Buoy Network” Spectral Refraction Model Huntington Beach Case Study: Swell Transformation Huntington Beach Wave Buoy North swell South swell

  17. 3. Model Validation “Buoy Network” Spectral Refraction Model Local Wave Buoys Measure Locally Generated Seas

  18. 3. Model Validation Huntington Beach Case Study : Sea Transformation Huntington Beach Wave Buoy Local Seas

  19. SIO Waves & Beaches : The “Buoy Network Wave Model” Observations Models Applications Waves: Directional Buoys Regional Wave Prediction Marine Navigation Islands Waves: Directional Buoys Waves: PUVs Nearshore Wave Prediction Beach Safety Coastal Engineering and Planning Shelf Waves & Currents: PUVs Sand: Jetski Surveys Surfzone Wave & Current Prediction Beach Safety (rips) Pathogen Transport (beach closures) Inundation Surf Sand: ATV Surveys Sand: LIDAR Surveys Sediment Transport Prediction RSM (Coastal Evolution w/ Climate Change) Beach Information Flow

  20. SIO Waves & Beaches : Towards RSM Tools Observations Models Applications Waves: Directional Buoys Regional Wave Prediction Marine Navigation Islands Waves: Directional Buoys Waves: PUVs Nearshore Wave Prediction Beach Safety Coastal Engineering and Planning Shelf Waves & Currents: PUVs Sand: Jetski Surveys Surfzone Wave & Current Prediction Beach Safety (rips) Pathogen Transport (beach closures) Inundation Surf Sand: ATV Surveys Sand: LIDAR Surveys Sediment Transport Prediction RSM (Coastal Evolution w/ Climate Change) Beach Information Flow

  21. Why Does San Diego’s North County Have So Much Trouble Retaining Sandy Beaches? Example Application :

  22. Oceanside Littoral Cell: The “River of Sand” Wave-Driven Net Southward Sand Transport Sand Leaves Cell at Scripps Submarine Canyon

  23. Wave Climate : Oceanside Littoral Cell Alongshore Wave Climate Reconstruction 1 Year: 4/1/02 - 3/31/03 Cross-shore Component Incident waves Alongshore Component CDIP Buoys

  24. Duration of Large (Erosional) Wave Conditions

  25. Net Annual Alongshore Sand Transport Downcoast Upcoast

  26. Wave-driven Lagoon Sub-Cells Batiquitos Sub-Cell Moonlight Sub-Cell San Elijo Sub-Cell Fletcher Sub-Cell San Diegito Sub-Cell Penesquitos Sub-Cell Torrey Pines Sub-Cell

  27. Predicted Max Potential Beach Width Erosion WINTER 2002-2003 Max Potential Beach Width Erosion (m)

  28. SIO Waves & Beaches Observations Models Applications Waves: Directional Buoys Regional Wave Prediction Marine Navigation Islands Waves: Directional Buoys Waves: PUVs Nearshore Wave Prediction Beach Safety Coastal Engineering and Planning Shelf Waves: PUVs Sand: Jetski Surveys Surfzone Wave & Current Prediction Beach Safety (rips) Pathogen Transport (beach closures) Inundation Surf Sand: ATV Surveys Sand: LIDAR Surveys Sediment Transport Prediction RSM (Coastal Evolution w/ Climate Change) Beach Information Flow

  29. SIO Waves & Beaches : The Observation Challenge Observations Models Applications Waves: Directional Buoys Regional Wave Prediction Marine Navigation Islands Waves: Directional Buoys Waves: PUVs Nearshore Wave Prediction Beach Safety Coastal Engineering and Planning Shelf Waves: PUVs Sand: Jetski Surveys Surfzone Wave & Current Prediction Beach Safety (rips) Pathogen Transport (beach closures) Inundation Surf Sand: ATV Surveys Sand: LIDAR Surveys Sediment Transport Prediction RSM (Coastal Evolution w/ Climate Change) Beach Information Flow

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