Note to Trainers;

1. Note to Trainers; • Please feel free to use or adapt this presentation to suit the needs of your course/students. • Every point is covered both by text and by video clips so choose which clips/text you want and delete any you don’t to avoid repetition.

2. Sustainable Hairdressing

3. Who are we? • Team of Social Researchers from the University of Southampton, Hairdressers and Environmental Managers; Dr Denise Baden, Dr Swarna Prasad, Danielle Mills, Jordan Peel • Project: “Embedding sustainability in the hairdressing curriculum – sustainable solutions for hair and beauty sector” conducted by the University of Southampton and funded by the Economic and Social Research Council.

4. Eco Hair and Beauty Presentation Overview: • Background to the key concepts relating to sustainability such as: climate change, global warming, resource use and sustainable development, with video clips to illustrate. • Video clips made specifically for training providers to show trainee hairdressers how to practice sustainable hairdressing. These cover: • Practices that save energy and water in the salon and at home. • Eco products for use in salon and by clients. • Green technologies. • Sustainable after care practices for clients.

5. Lecture outline Section 1: Sustainable Hairdressing Section 2: Reducing Water and Energy Consumption Section 3: Reducing Water Pollution Section 4: Palm Oil and Deforestation Section 5: Reducing Waste Section 6: Health and Safety Section 7: Eco Products Section 8: The Ripple Effect - Advising Clients

6. Section 1 Key sustainability concepts

7. One Planet Living • Globally; humanity is currently consuming 50% more natural resources than the Earth's ecosystems can replenish (WWF). • United Kingdom; if everyone in the world were to consume natural resources and generate CO2 at the rate we do in the UK, we'd need three planets to support us. • We only have one planet and need to stop over consuming our planets resources by making sustainable changes in our homes and places of work. • Concept of One Planet Living (2:46mins) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h3NZ7cmR9v8

8. Climate change and Global warming When CO2 is released into the atmosphere, it acts as a greenhouse gas i.e. it causes heat to remain trapped within the atmosphere, rather than escaping back to space. This causes global warming. Science tells us that the increasing century is mostly man-made and that temperatures are rising now faster than ever (WWF, 2015a).

9. Climate change and Global warming • The Climate Change Act (2008) was introduced to ensure the UK cuts its carbon emissions by 80% by 2050. The 80% target is set against a 1990 baseline. The Governments policies to help businesses and households achieve this are set out in: https://www.gov.uk/government/policies/greenhouse-gas-emissions https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Global_warming • A rise of just 2°c would result in severe storms, floods and droughts, little or no arctic ice, and more acidic oceans (WWF, 2015a).

10. Discussion points: • How will climate change affect us? • What are the implications for hairdressing?

11. This is likely to result in water shortages and developing countries in the South becoming deserts. • This affects us all, as we depend on the South for crops such as coffee, chocolate, sugar, fruit etc. • Sea levels and coastal areas will become uninhabitable. • Mass immigration. • Pressure on energy and water intensive businesses Responses

12. What is a Carbon Footprint? • A carbon footprintis defined as: • The total amount of greenhouse gases produced to support human activities, usually expressed in equivalent tons of carbon dioxide (CO2). • For example: • The carbon footprint of using 1 litre of petrol is 2.3kg • Using half a tank of petrol = 57.5kg • The weekly carbon footprint of someone who shampoos their hair every day with 2 shampoos and rinsed out conditioner with hot water running for 10 mins in total is 9kg. • The weekly carbon footprint of someone who shampoos their hair twice a week with 1 shampoo and leave-in conditioner with hot water running for 4 mins in total, plus uses dry shampoo once a week is 1kg.

13. SustainableDevelopment Sustainable Development is development that; “meets the needs of the present without compromising the ability of future generations to meet their own needs’’ (Brundtland Commission, 1987).

14. In order for salons to be successful in the future they need to consider the 3 pillars of sustainability where the social, environmental and economical needs of the business are balanced. The Three Pillars of Sustainability

15. Social • Paying employees a fair wage • Fairtrade tea and coffee • Cutting wigs for cancer patients • Donating hair clippings to oil spills and cancer charities • Using socially responsible products • Eco community events • Supporting charities Spreading sustainable after-care advice with clients • Adopting organic or ultra-low ammonia colours • Creating a safe environment for staff and clients

16. Environmental • Installing renewable or low carbon technology • Switching to a green energy supplier • Up-cycling furniture • Using brushes from FSC certified sources • Training staff to reduce their own environmental impact • Investing in industry specific green technology • Adopting a product range where the ingredients are sourced from renewable and sustainable sources • Reduce waste sent to landfill • Reduce energy consumption • Reduce water consumption

17. Economy • Save costs through reduced waste Save cost through reduced energy use Save costs through reduced water use Save costs through reduced product use Attract eco minded customer

18. Section 2 - Reducing Water and Energy Consumption

19. Energy Use in the UK • Heating water is the biggest contributor to carbon footprint in most homes and salons: • Typical wattage of a power shower is about 10,500 watts • Typical wattage of a water heater is about 4,500 watts. • Comparatively, the typical wattage of appliances such as computers and TV are between 100 and 200 watts.

20. Salon activities that depend on energy • The hot water heated to shampoo hair Washing towels Boiling the kettle Blow drying the hair • Straightening, curling, setting the hair • Climazones and hooded dryers • Lighting

21. Salon activities that depend on water • Shampooing the clients hair for a cut and blow dry • Rinsing off a clients colour • Rinsing a perm • Washing towels • Washing up • Filling the kettle for hot drinks • Mopping the salon

22. Discussion Point: Energy Use: What can you do? • How best can you reduce your energy consumption? • In your home? • In the hair salon? • What changes in behavior/practice can you think of?

23. Behaviour change to reduce energy/water consumption? • Changes with the greatest impact are those that reduce use of water heater. • Waiting for a full load before you put the washing machine on • Filling the kettle for the right amount of cups Switching taps off Water temperature: use tepid water not hot. • And for your clients: shampoo once not twice, use leave in conditioner, dry shampoo etc.

24. Behavioural change: Reducing energy consumption • Switching lights off • Switching appliances off • Switching taps off • Using products to help speed up blow drying time where appropriate • Using the correct blow drying techniques to provide a quality, yet efficient service

25. Eco-products There are three ways in which a product can be eco-friendly: • Appliances/ products/technologies that save energy • The way in which it is used results in less water/energy being used e.g. dry shampoo, leave-in conditioner, cleansing conditioner. • The brand/company is known for its green credentials e.g. • Recyclable/less packaging • have less toxic ingredients, avoid ingredients that damage the environment e.g. uses sustainable palm oil, ammonia free, PPD free

26. Low flow showers with a wattage of about 8,500 watts, • Air is bubbled in with the water, reducing the amount of water used. • ‘Aerating’ heads mix oxygen with water to create a softer, bubbly shower. • Shower aerators, which reduce water consumption by about 50%. • An affordable way to reduce your water consumption. • With some brands you can save up to £300 a year. • Enhances clients experience by massage motion • • Purifies water which results in a cleaner smoother blow dry • Ecoheads 56% less water • "ECOHEADS have changed the salon backwash experience forever,saving us water and energybut managing to double the pressure" • Nicola Smyth | Award Winning Hair UK

27. More on energy saving products… • • Professional Hair Spa • Thermal cap that use body heat not electricity • ‘better for the hairdresser, better for the client and better for the planet.’ • • Curlformers • Can style and even perm hair with Curlformers. • Easy, no heat way to curl hair.No hair dryers no curlers, no straighteners. • Gamma Piu IES Dryer • Uses less energy but performs like a 2500 watt dryer with power and heat but uses up to 44% less electricity. • • Single use towels such as EasyDry or Enki • Made using eco-friendly processes, they are sustainable. Used by Ken Picton, Karine Jackson, Leo Bancroft, Anne Veck and Hooker & Young. • Saves water • • Biodegradable, which reduces pressure on landfill • • Sourced from sustainable forests • • Hygienic • Disposable towels is 25% cheaper than laundering cotton towels. 

28. Virtual Salon Here is an example from Fife College as to what a college salon could be.https://youtu.be/PxkjzkdvoZM

29. Anne Veck • Owner of eco salon in Oxford • BlueGen Ceramic Fuel Technology • Single use towels • LED lighting • FSC accredited stationary • Ammonia free hair colour • Ethically sourced hair extensions • Anne Veck Eco Salon 2:39 video clip showing how salon can be designed to prevent waste, water pollution and save energy and water. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nL49MUaHRD8

30. Discussion Point? • What are the benefits of more sustainable practices and products? • To the salon? • To the client? • To the client’s hair? • To the planet?

31. Benefits of Sustainable Behaviour • No need for large investment Massive cost savings: estimated that each 1% investment in behaviour changes = 10% savings in costs. Changes culture of the industry • Gets to the root of the problem Using less water, heat and chemicals is also good for hair condition.

32. Why is it important to reduce the salon’s electricity consumption? • Saves resources and conserves fossil fuels • Reduces carbon emissions and benefits climate change • Reduces air pollution • Reduces demand for electricity which makes the salon less vulnerable to energy price fluctuations • People are over-consuming and sustainable actions set a good example for others to follow

33. Why is it important to reduce water consumption? • Risk of water scarcity becoming a real threat • Relieves pressure on water treatment plants • Saves water and conserves the vital resource • Good habits can influence others to make changes

34. Planet? • Risk of water scarcity becoming a real threat • Relieves pressure on water treatment plants • Saves water and conserves the vital resource • Good habits can influence others to make changes

35. Client • financial benefits Benefits to hair condition

36. Salon • cost Client satisfaction Noise reduction

37. Section 3 Reducing Water Pollution

38. Water Pollution • Waste water from hair washing is classed as “grey-water”, and is transported by sewer systems to a treatment facility. It is vital therefore that waste water is transported safely and treated. If these toxic chemicals were released into soil or water, they could cause great ecological damage. • More than 5,000 different chemicals are found in hair dye products, some of which are reported to be carcinogen, causing cancer in animals (Bolt & Golka, 2007, de Sanjose et al., 2006).

39. Case study: Eutrophication Ammonia is widely used in hair products Ammonia pollution is a form of water pollution. It results in a process known as eutrophication, which leads to the excessive growth of organisms such as algae, preventing sunlight and oxygen reaching other organisms beneath the water surface. Effects on the Environment • Results in low levels of oxygen in freshwater or seawater • Algal bloom blocks out the sunlight and kills fish • Algal bloom blocks out the sunlight and kills aquatic life

40. Green technology that reduces water consumption Grey water system • A grey water system is an effective way to reuse the high volume of water that a salon produces. • The system collects ‘white’ water that has been produced as a result of the shampooing process, the washing machine and general housekeeping duties. • The water is filtered into the grey water system and is used for toilet water.

41. Discussion Point? • What can be done to reduce water pollution by hair salons?

42. What Can be Done to Reduce Water Pollution? Reduce colour waste When mixing colour it can be easy to overestimate the colour needed for the service or clients hair. This wasted colour is then washed unnecessarily down the drain causing water pollution. Mixing colour responsibly can reduce ecological damage and save the salon money. Opt for Organic and Ultra Low Ammonia Options Alternative hair colour contains fewer toxic chemicals which ultimately gets washed down the drain and enters the water system. This change not only benefits the environment, but improves the wellbeing of stylists and clients as their exposure to toxic chemicals is minimised. OR: Use chalk-based temporary hair colour: good fun and fewer chemicals video clip (1:53s) Click here

43. Extending life of colour treatments • Tip to extend life of colour (42sec also in clip 4) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L4-TWIY6lLw • Reduce colour fade through hair-care that reduces number of rinses e.g. dry shampoo, shampoo less, leave-in conditioner etc. 10 mini clips showing how can advise clients (10 mins): • https://youtu.be/ZmE36lanSDM

44. Reducing pollution from hair colour • Use temporary hair-colour • e.g. good for festivals: video clip (48sec also in clip 4) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MM8rFEFaKHk • Less is more! How much product to use video clip (1:25mins – pause for Q& A at 45sec): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8N1fdfXYqb0

45. Section 4 Palm Oil and deforestation

46. Palm Oil Palm oil is a vegetable oil and is by far the most popular and efficient product on the market. It is found in many household products, varying from pizza and chocolate to toothpastes and soaps. It is also found in the shampoo that we use at home and in the salon, but unsustainable palm oil is causing significant environmental problems. Today, rainforests are being destroyed at that rate of 300 football fields every hour.

47. Under the Microscope; negative effects of palm oil Deforestation Habitat loss Loss of biodiversity Soil erosion Water pollution Climate change

48. Habitat Loss The loss of forest has led to many animals losing their homes. This has pushed many species to the brink of extinction, at risk are; elephants, rhinos, tigers and orang-utans. If orang-utans wander into nearby villages they are seen as pests and are captured. The mother is often killed and the baby is sold on a as pet.

49. Video Clips and Useful Links for Palm Oil Information Greenpeace - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0o6WHN4NDTk2:27 - link between palm oil, forest destruction and products. Some global buyers such as Unilever are committed to buying 100% sustainable palm oil, but others are lagging.

50. Activity time • What is the palm oil policy of popular hair-care brands and manufacturers? • To find out which shampoos use sustainable palm oil check out the following links (high score = more ethical/eco product) • http://www.ethicalconsumer.org/buyersguides/healthbeauty/shampoo.aspx • or simply Google and explore what you can find out. • or check out what RSPO certification means