Unit 59

1. Unit 59 Interior Doors and Hardware Interior Door Styles • Finishing Door Openings • Fitting and Installing Doors • Specialty Doors • Metal Door Units • Door Locks • Hinges • Other Door Hardware

2. An interior door unit includes a doorjamb, stops, and a casing.

3. Recessed doorjambs are popular with some building designs.

4. One type of hollow‑core door has a hardwood frame and a cellular core, which is covered by veneer, hardboard, or vinyl face panels. A lock block is located where the door lock hole will be drilled.

5. Solid‑core doors may have a particleboard or staggered­block core.

6. A fire door has a fire-resistant mineral core.

7. Panel doors consist of rails, stiles, and panels.

8. Panels may be arranged in various ways to provide different appearances.

9. On panel doors, stiles and rails are solid pieces or laminated layers. Panels may be plain or raised. Raised panels are 3/4² plywood tapered at the ends to fit into the grooves of the frame. Plain panels are usually 1/4² thick plywood.

10. Solid‑core flush doors may be routed out to provide the effect of panel doors.

11. Plank doors give the appearance of beveled planks extending from the top to bottom rail, with a horizontal piece placed at lock level.

12. A typical doorjamb assembly includes a head jamb and two side jambs.

13. Two typical jamb designs are the rabbeted jamb and loose‑stop jamb.

14. Head and side jamb lengths must be calculated properly so the doorjamb fits in the rough opening.

15. A carpenter’s level, straightedge with stand-off blocks at the ends, and framing square are required when installing a doorjamb.

16. Door stops may be mitered or butted. The top stop is always installed first.

17. A notched 2 ´ 4 and shims can serve as a door holder for fitting and installation operations.

18. With the door in the opening, check the sides and top to see where the door may need to be fitted.

19. The inside edge of the lock side of the door should be beveled approximately 3° to prevent the inside edge from scraping against the doorjamb as the door is closed.

20. Hinge size is identified by its leaf length. Hollow-core doors use two hinges. Heavier solid-core exterior doors require three hinges.

21. The hinge pin of loose‑pin hinges can be removed to allow the door to be taken out of the frame.

22. Hinge leaves must project from the door and doorjamb by at least one‑half the casing thickness.

23. The door and jamb are marked at the same time when laying out the hinges. In this example, the upper hinge is 7² from the top of the door and the lower hinge is 11² from the bottom of the door.

24. The hinge outline is marked with a sharp knife.

25. A butt gauge is used to assist in hinge layout. Cutter A is adjusted to the width of the hinge gain. Cutter B is adjusted to the gain depth.

26. A butt marker is used for hinge layout. The hinge outline and gain depth are marked in the door and doorjamb when the butt marker is hit with a hammer.

27. A butt chisel is used to mortise the gain. The hinge should rest flush with the surface.

28. When a door is hung, line up the leaves of the door and jamb. Push the leaves together and replace the pin.

29. The clearance between the hinge side of the door and doorjamb is adjusted by placing a thin cardboard strip behind the leaf fastened to the doorjamb or door.

30. Several measurements and observations must be made to determine door fit problems.

31. A hinge-mortising template and a router are used to mortise the door edge and doorjamb for hinges.

32. The doorjamb of a nonadjustable prehung door unit is designed for only one wall thickness.

33. The doorjamb of an adjustable prehung door unit can accommodate different wall thicknesses. The loose stop is installed after the door is installed.

34. When selecting a nonadjustable prehung door unit, ensure the doorjamb width matches the wall thickness.

35. Adjustable (split‑jamb) prehung door units are installed in two sections.

36. A pocket sliding (recessed) door frame is set in place when the wall is framed. The frames may be wood or metal. The doors are installed later.

37. Bypass sliding doors are suspended from tracks with roller hangers.

38. Bi‑fold doors are secured next to the jambs with pivot pins and brackets. The second door is hinged to the first door. A roller guide on the second door glides in an overhead track.

39. Multifolding, or accordion, doors fold against the door jambs.

40. Steel door frames are commonly used in commercial construction. A typical steel door frame is made of 16-ga hot-dipped galvanized steel. Note the recessed areas for the hinges and the lock strike plate.

41. When installing a metal door frame, one side jamb is first installed, followed by the head and other side jamb. The jambs slip over the applied gypsum board.

42. The type of door frame determines the type of fastener required to secure the frame in the door opening.

43. The face of a flush steel door is made of 20‑ga steel. Pieces of 12‑ga steel reinforce sections where the lock and hinges are to be installed. The holes are drilled and tapped to receive flat­head machine screws.

44. The door hand is the direction in which a door swings. Always face the outside of a door when determining the door hand.

45. For a cylindrical lockset, the cylinder is located within the knob. The cylinder contains the tumbler mechanism in which the key fits. Locks are operated with a knob or lever.

46. On a grip‑handle lock, the cylinder is separate from the knob.

47. The strike plate is mortised into the side jamb.

48. A deadbolt latch provides greater security than a spring latch.

49. When a manufacturer template is not provided, a carpenter must lay out and bore holes for a cylindrical lockset.

50. If the strike plate is laid out and installed accurately, the door will be flush with the edge of the jamb when the latch engages the strike plate.