Textile Fabrics and Finishes

1. 7 Chapter Textile Fabrics and Finishes

2. Fabric Design and Construction • The appearance and performance of fabrics depend on their fiber content, type of yarn, fabric construction, and finishing • Structural design is achieved by “building in” texture or interest to fabrics Applied designis achieved by adding color, pattern, or other features after the basic fabric has been made

3. Weaving • Weaving is the procedure of interlacing two sets of yarns at right angles to each other, usually done on a loom • A selvageforms where the filling yarns turn at the fabric’s edge to go back the other direction

4. Weaving • Grain is the direction the yarns run in the fabric • Bias grain is diagonal on the fabric • True bias runs at an angle of 45 degrees

5. Types of Weaves • The three basic weave types are plain, twill, and satin • The simplest and most common weave is the plain weave • The appearance of a plain weave can be changed by using large yarns with small ones, or textured yarns continued

6. Types of Weaves • A twill weave forms a diagonal line • Most twill weaves are very firm and tightly woven • The satin weavehas long yarn floats on the surface in one direction • The satin weave is smooth, slippery, and drapable

7. Variations • Variations of these can create interesting structural designs • Large, intricate designs are woven on a Jacquard loom • Pile fabrics, like terry cloth, have loops projecting from the surface • Cut pile fabrics have a nap, which is a layer of fiber ends raised from the surface

9. Knittingis a fabric construction method of looping yarns together • Knitted fabrics have natural flexibility and stretch • They are very popular for use in active sportswear, sweaters, and travel wardrobes • The number of loops per inch is the gauge. • Higher gauge number indicates a closer, finer knit

10. Types of Knits • Weft (or filling) knits have one yarn strand that forms a horizontal row of interlocked loops • Types of weft knitting include • Single knit fabrics that often run if snagged. Also cut edges may curl

11. Types of Weft Knits • Double knit fabrics do not sag or stretch out of shape • Purl knits have prominent crosswise ridges and are reversible • Textured knits are made from filament yarns that are permanently coiled, curled, or looped

12. Types of Warp Knits • Warp knits are only made on flat knitting machines • They are stable, durable, and relatively run-proof and run lengthwise • Example: Tricot • Raschel knits are made on the raschel knitting machine • Fabrics range from heavy to sheer net or lace effects

13. Other Construction Methods • Nonwovensare made from a compact web of fibers, held together with moisture, heat, friction, chemicals, and/or pressure (artificial suede) • Laces and nets are openwork fabrics made by crossing, twisting, or looping yarns into designs continued

14. Other Construction Methods • Braided fabrics are made by braiding, also called plaiting, yarns to form a regular pattern • Bonding is a method of permanently laminating together two layers of fabric that are already constructed • Fusible web is a sheet of binder fibers that can act as an adhesive between two layers of fabric

15. Quilted Fabrics • Quilted fabrics consist of a layer of padding (or batting) between two layers of yard goods • Sometimes fabrics are quilted by pinsonic thermal joining

16. Fabric Finishing • Fabric finishing is done by applying colors, designs or surface treatments that change the look, feel, or performance of fabrics • Businesses that convert greige goods to finished fabrics and distribute those fabrics are called converters continued

17. Bleaching • Bleaching is a chemical process that removes any natural color from fibers or fabrics • Bleaching is done to • create white yard goods • remove impurities before dyeing or printing • intentionally fade products

18. Dyeing is a method of giving color to textiles using coloring agents called dyes • Colorfast means a fabric’s color will not fade or change with normal use and care

19. Fiber and Yarn Dyeing • Fiber dyeing involves adding color to fibers before they are spun into yarns • Yarn dyeing is done by placing yarns into a dye bath after being wound onto spools

20. Piece Dyeing • Piece dyeing is a process where fabrics are dyed after being woven • Most piece-dyed fabrics result in solid colors, except those that are cross-dyed • Least expensive, fastest, predictable, can dye just before selling

21. Garment Dyeing • Garment dyeingis gaining popularity • Apparel is manufactured of undyed yarns in styles minus buttons or labels • When orders are received, the garments are dyed and labeled as requested

22. Printing • Printing is a process for adding color, pattern, or design to the surface of fabrics • Directional prints have a specific direction • Border prints have a distinct design along one or both fabric edges

23. Roller Printing • Roller printing applies color directly to fabric as it passes between a series of metal rollers engraved with the design • Different rollers transfer different colors

24. Screen and Rotary Screen Printing • Screen printing is done by hand on flat screening frames, similar to stenciling • Each color requires a stretched screen • Rotary screen printingis a combination of roller printing and screen printing

25. Heat Transfer Printing • Heat transfer printing is a method in which special dyes are placed on paper • With heat and pressure, the colors and patterns are transferred from the paper to the fabric

26. Flocking • Flockingis a specialty procedure that prints a design onto fabric with an adhesive (glue substance) • Small pieces of fluffy or sparkly material are sprinkled over the fabric • The material sticks to the glue in the desired pattern

27. Digital Printing • Digital (electronic) printinguses computers • After prints are designed, an extra-wide ink-jet printer applies the design • Printing can be done onto many different fibers with colors matching exactly

28. Finishes • Most textile finishes are permanent, lasting the life of the garment • Durable finishes last through several launderings or dry cleanings • A temporary finish lasts only until the fabric is washed or dry-cleaned

29. A term that ends in “proof,” such as waterproof, means complete protection • A term with “resistant” or “repellent,” such as water-repellent, means the finish provides partial protection

30. Mechanical Finishes • Mechanical finishes can • affect the size and appearance of fabrics • give the fabric surface a smooth, flat look or a napped or brushed texture • Example: Corduroy undergoes cutting to create rows of cut pile

31. Chemical Finishes • Chemical finishes react with fibers to become part of the fabrics • A process called mercerization increases the luster, strength, and dyeability of cellulosic textiles • Permanent press, flame retardant and water repellant finishes continued

32. Microencapsulation technologies add tiny particles into fabrics that slowly release substances • Ex: Medical dressings can deliver antibiotics

33. Textile designers act on fashion trend predictions up to 18 months before products made with the fabrics will hit the market • They may also use forecasting services, which specialize in predicting future fashion trends

34. Selling the Finished Fabrics • Staple fabrics are commodity textile products made continuously each year with little change • Novelty fabrics are fashion fabrics that change with style trends continued

35. Trade Information • The most important shows for the apparel fabric industry are the • French Premiere Vision events, including its European PreView exhibition • Techtextil shows, which are held for high performance technical textiles and nonwovens