UNIT B EVOLUTION AND MOVEMENT OF FASHION

UNIT BEVOLUTION AND MOVEMENT OF FASHION The 40's 2.03 Recognize the relationship between historical events and fashion evolution.

Mood of the decade • World War II • Women re-entered the workforce • Parisian Fashion houses closed their doors due to German invasion of Paris • American fashion designers emerged • Shorter skirts • Sloppy Joe sweaters • Bikini introduced

Mood of the decade World War II (cont.) L-85 (General Limitations Order) restricted amount of fabric used in production of apparel. Designers had to create fashions that would remain stylish through multiple seasons. A new style of suits for women had short skirts and short jackets of twenty-five inches or less in length. Sheath evening dresses replaced the long flowing gowns of the thirties.

Mood of the decade World War II (cont.) Restrictions limited use of silk, wool, rubber, metal Tailored masculine-looking suit The young danced the jitterbug.

Mood of the decade World War II (cont.) Postwar fashion freedom Women wanted a return to more feminine designs. Christian Dior introduced the “New Look” with rounded shoulders, fuller bustlines, and fuller skirts fifteen inches off the ground. Paris was re-established as the center of the fashion world.

People who influenced fashion • Christian Dior—designer of the “New Look”; first to license name • Norman Norrell—winner of the first Coty American Fashion Critics Award; founder of CFDA • Cristobal Balenciaga—known for huge evening coats, long, full skirts, pillbox hats, and chemise dresses

People who influenced fashion • Jacques Fath—first French designer to export designs to the United States • Elsa Schiaparelli—known for surreal designs and bold use of color • Adrian—Hollywood costume designer whose screen fantasies influenced street fashions

Mood of the decade • Korean War • Color television introduced • Rock-n-Roll explosion • Teenagers emerged as a fashion voice. • Leather jackets and T-shirts with the sleeves rolled up • White shirts and blue jeans • Letter sweaters • Beatniks • American Bandstand • Elvis Presley appeared on The Ed Sullivan Show.

Mood of the decade (cont.) • Moving to the suburbs • Sportswear emerges • Pedal pushers, slacks, halters, shirtwaist dresses • Cashmere sweaters with a matching scarf • Poodle skirts • Single-breasted jackets, narrow lapels, and natural shoulders • Tapered trousers and penny loafers • Shopping malls are built.

Mood of the decade (cont.) • Ivy League look • Men wore neat single-breasted jackets with narrow lapels, pressed trousers, with white, yellow, or pale blue button-down collared shirts, and ties. • Female students dressed in twin sweater sets, or Peter-Pan collared blouses and sweaters, with pencil-slim or pleated skirts.

Mood of the decade (cont.) • Hairstyles • Girls wore ponytails early in the decade. Later, the beehive was popular. • Boys “trained” their hair into greased-back ducktails and carried a comb at all times.

Mood of the decade (cont.) • Shoes and accessories • Two-toned bucks • Bobby socks

People who influenced fashions • Designer influence was significant • Dior—the A-line silhouette for women • Givenchy—the chemise or “sack” dress • Claire McCardell—sashes, harem pajamas, bias-cut, dartless clothes

Mood of the decade • Civil Rights Movement • Black Pride • The Afro • African prints • Dashiki: A loose, brightly-colored African tunic.

Mood of the decade (cont.) Youthquake Revolution Youth take ownership of the decade Mod look: Clothing with psychedelic colors and geometric designs. Go-Go Look with mini skirts, white go-go boots

Mood of the decade (cont.) Election of John F. Kennedy Youngest president in history The bare-headed President Kennedy begins the demise of the men’s hat industry. First Lady Jackie Kennedy is the fashion icon of the decade wearing Chanel suits and simple dresses, pillbox hat, pearls, and low-heeled shoes.

Mood of the decade (cont.) Man walks on the moon Pierre Cardin and André Courreges are called the space age designers. Space age and futuristic looks appear on high fashion runways.

Mood of the decade (cont.) Onset of the women’s liberation movement See through blouses, no bra Unisex look Pantyhose introduced (Glen Raven Mills, NC, 1959)

Mood of the decade (cont.) Anti-war movement (Vietnam) Hippie look, suede fringe jackets, appliquéd bell-bottom trousers, tie-dyed shirts, love beads, granny glasses, and peace symbols. Woodstock Festival

People who influenced fashions Decreased designer influence Mary Quant—London designer who introduced the miniskirt Twiggy—skinny British model who became the top model of the sixties Emilio Pucci—exotic, psychedelic, beautiful prints Yves St. Laurent—fresh approach to fashion with Mondrian-inspired shift dress Jackie Kennedy Audrey Hepburn—classics such as the “little black dress”

Mood of the decade • Watergate Scandal • Vietnam war ends • Dawn of the Disco, Studio 54, Saturday Night Fever • John Travolta’s white suit with an open-necked shirt. • Platform shoes • Bell-bottom hip-hugger pants • Hot pants with white go-go boots

Mood of the decade Punk Rock, short-lived anti-social and anti-fashion movement Torn, frayed clothing Body piercing Spiked hair colored pink or green T-shirts being worn as billboards Political statement designs

Mood of the decade Rap and hip-hop emerge Athletic clothes Track suits Excessive amounts of gold jewelry

Mood of the decade Ethnic influence Macramé bags Crochet waistcoats and shawls Ponchos Gypsy tops with gathered necklines trimmed with bells and puffed sleeves Nehru jackets

Mood of the decade “Me” decade, self indulgence String bikini Tight clothes Men’s leisure suits Designer jeans Hand-braided friendship bracelets

Mood of the decade Feminism, sexual equality, women’s lib, equal rights Bra burning Women no longer wear girdles Women buy pantyhose Women wear pants and pantsuits Double-knit polyester man-made fabrics Micro, mini, midi, and maxi skirts

Mood of the decade Shoes Platforms Clogs Movies and their stars Annie Hall—women wearing oversize men’s shirts, very long skirts, khaki pants, and men’s hats Grease—leather motorcycle jackets

Mood of the decade Television Charlie’s Angels—Farrah Fawcett Major’s hair style and flared trousers Happy Days—Fonzie’s leather jacket, jeans, white shirt Dukes of Hazzard—Daisy Duke’s cutoff jean shorts

People who influenced fashion Yves Saint Laurent—womenswear based on menswear Halston—use of cashmere Calvin Klein—denim jeans Mary McFadden—fine pleating Bill Blass—sporty, sophisticated classics

Mood of the decade • Excess • Shoulder pads, retro 1940s • Big hair • Brand names appeared on outside of garment

Mood of the decade (cont.) • MTV • Music becomes visual • Videos become a major influence on apparel choices • Lace tops, tight skirts • Bustier worn by Madonna

Mood of the decade (cont.) Television influence Dallas—jeans, boots, western shirts, and cowboy hat Dynasty—wide shoulder silhouettes Miami Vice —T-shirts worn under Armani suits, pastel colors for men General Hospital —Luke and Laura Lady Diana Spencer weds Prince Charles Diana’s wedding dress becomes one of the most copied in the world

Mood of the decade (cont.) Workout craze, Jane Fonda Legwarmers, leotards, sneakers Nike, Reebok Women left their high-heels at home and wore sneakers to work Introduction of the thong bikini Stirrup pants Warm-up suits Flashdance—increased the popularity of legwarmers, sweatshirt fabric, and sweatshirts with cut out necks

Mood of the decade (cont.) Punk Dog collars Mohawk hairstyles Leather jackets and chains

UNIT B EVOLUTION AND MOVEMENT OF FASHION The 1990's 2.03 Recognize the relationship between historical events and fashion evolution.

Mood of the decade • Sandra Day O’Connor—first woman on Supreme Court • AIDS first identified • Collapse of the Soviet Union and the expansion of overseas companies

Mood of the decade (cont.) Longest bull market in Wall Street history More luxurious fashions are introduced as people have more money to spend. More luxurious fabrics enter the market.

Mood of the decade (cont.) Casual Friday—khakis, polos, loafers, jeans with company T-shirts worn to work Internet Finger-tip access to global fashion information Online shopping

Mood of the decade (cont.) Street Fashions Hip-Hop style Jeans, logo T-shirts, windbreakers, all oversized Body piercing Tattooing Doc Martens Backpack purses

Mood of the decade (cont.) Megabrands Youthquake with Tommy Hilfiger FUBU Banana Republic J. Crew Old Navy, The Gap, Abercrombie and Fitch Tweens (8 to 12 years old), Gap Kids, Limited Too

Mood of the decade (cont.) Women’s competitive and adventure sports—Example: WNBA Athletic shoes Sports bras

People who influenced fashion Princess Diana—most photographed woman ever Tommy Hilfiger—“brand image” designer Gianni Versace—designer with rock star type sex appeal Isaac Mizrahi—high-fashion designer whose line is sold exclusively by Target Ralph Lauren—“preppy” styles for men and women

People who influenced fashion Music, movies, and television Garth Brooks—western shirts Shania Twain—bare midriffs and tight fitting clothes Back Street Boys—“oversized” clothes Madonna—the bustier Jennifer Aniston—“Rachel” hairdo on Friends

People who influenced fashion Russell Simmons—Phat Farm hip-hop clothing Sean John Combs (“P. Diddy”)—denim-based signature sportswear for men and boys

UNIT BEVOLUTION AND MOVEMENT OF FASHION Twenty-first century 2.03 Recognize the relationship between historical events and fashion evolution.

Mood of the decade • Y2K—The Millennium Bug • Unclear winner in the United States Presidential Election • Firestone recalled tires • Microsoft ordered to split • September 11, 2001 attack on the Twin Towers • Taliban regime

UNIT B EVOLUTION AND MOVEMENT OF FASHION