Sewing 101

1. Sewing 101 BASIC FLEECE HAT Presented by: Cara Wood

2. Created during the Industrial Revolution to help quicken the work of textile workers and make the overall work easier • Originally manual – cranked by hand – but would eventually become electric in 1889 when Singer invented the first electric machine • Early machines were made out of heavy metal, but most contemporary home machines are made out of plastic • Machines use a top and bottom thread to create a lockstitch, or a stitch that does not unravel easily A brief history of sewing machines: Source: http://www.ideafinder.com/history/inventions/sewmachine.htm

3. This is the most commonly used stitch to exist. The top thread (green) is fed through the fabric via the needle, and the bottom thread (red) is fed through the bobbin. The lockstitch:

4. Chances are, you have a sewing machine in your house somewhere. Maybe it’s a hand-me-down from your parents or grandparents (or GREAT-grandparents!). But there’s probably a functioning sewing machine somewhere around, and I’m here to teach you how to use it. Sewing can be an easy, relaxing and certainly rewarding activity if you put your mind to learning how to operate your machine. I have been sewing for nearly eight years now and I want you to experience how fun I know this hobby can be! Why should I learn how to sew?

5. You can: • Repair worn-out or torn clothing • Tailor clothes to fit your form • Make your own clothes • Give cool personal, hand-made gifts to your friends! • Save LOTS of money by doing all of the above! What can sewing do for me?

6. You can even make awesome costumes like these!

7. The images you saw on this and the previous slides all feature costumes made – and worn – by me! I am into making costumes of my favorite characters and wearing them to anime, video game, and comic book conventions all over the east coast. I have won awards for a few of my costumes and I hope that you can have as much fun sewing as I have over the years. So why don’t you break out your sewing machine and we can make something fun! I’ll show you, step-by-step, how to make an easy accessory. But first, be sure you familiarize yourself with your own machine.

8. Before we start, be sure to consult your machine’s owner’s manual and identify the parts of the machine that you have. Here is an identification chart for a basic machine: Every machine is different! TIP: If you can’t find your owner’s manual, look up your machine’s model number online! It’s easy to find old manuals online. Image credit: http://www.embersewing.com

9. A basic winter hat! This project is simple, easy, and will help keep your head nice and toasty warm on a chilly day! The following are step-by-step instructions on making a cozy fleece hat. We are making:

10. You will need (besides your machine, of course): 1. Fleece (I usually buy about a half-yard so I have enough to make a few hats at a time!)2. Thread (same color as your fleece!)3. Hat pattern (either buy one with your fleece, or you can find and print one out for free online!)4. Sewing pins & pincushion (get these at the store with your fleece!)5. Scissors

11. Cut out your pattern in your size. I usually cut mine a size bigger, because it’s easy to take things in later on. Pin the pattern to the fabric – be sure to do it on a fold!

12. Cut out your fabric according to the pattern. Give yourself a little room to work with around the pattern – you won’t be sewing right up against the edge.

13. Our hat is going to have a brim, so line up your pattern on the fold again and cut out a thick rectangle that’s just a little bit longer than the base hat piece. You want the rectangle to be a little more than twice as thick as your brim will be, so for about a one-inch brim, I cut out a rectangle that’s 2.5 inches thick.

14. Set your hat pieces aside for the moment. It’s time to ready the machine. I am working off of a Janome model, but it’s likely that you will be using something different. Most machines are pretty similar in the basic pieces, though, so I will walk you through what I do to set up the machine.First, make sure the power cord is plugged in and connected securely to your machine. Set the foot pedal down where it’s comfortable for you to reach it.

15. We need to wind a bobbin (the bottom thread). First, place your spool of thread in its respective place in the machine.

16. Be sure to pull the machine pulley (or hand crank) out. It should pop right out. Your bobbin will not wind otherwise.

17. Hand-wind your bobbin a little bit before you start it in the machine – it’s less likely to jam that way. Then, place it on the bobbin winder (consult your owner’s manual for specifics on where that is on your machine), click it over to the winding position, and lightly press on your foot pedal to wind the bobbin.

18. Wind your bobbin until you feel like you have enough thread for this project – it should be pretty thick! Some machines, like mine, will automatically stop winding once it senses there’s a certain amount of thread on the bobbin. Older models don’t have this feature, so be sure to pay attention while you’re winding!

19. Install the bobbin in your machine according to your owner’s manual. We’ll get right back to that – time to thread your top-thread!

20. Thread your machine according to your owner’s manual. I have included photos of how my machine threads for basic reference. Most machines follow this basic down-up-down threading format, but yours will probably be somewhat different.

21. The needle you use is important! I am using an all-purpose needle, but a heavy-duty needle, if you have one, wouldn’t hurt. Be sure you’re not using a needle intended for thin fabrics, because it will break on you mid-stitch! Most machine needles are color-coded; consult your owner’s manual for details.

22. To finish machine prep, we have to pull the bobbin thread through the feed dog. By cranking the machine pulley towards you, your needle will catch the bobbin thread and bring it through the hole. Pull the thread through a couple inches and re-cover your bobbin case. Pop the machine pulley back into place, and we’re ready to go.

23. Take your thick triangle and open it up along the fold. Fold it over again – this time length-wise, and pin it down.

24. Align your fleece with the needle like so, and begin sewing by pressing on the foot pedal lightly. I find it helps to sew without shoes on so I have a better feel for how much pressure I’m putting on the pedal. Your machine has a reverse function. Press down on that after about an inch or so into the seam and go back to the beginning. This helps prevent the seam from unraveling. From there, just sew a straight line and then when you get to the end, reverse again about an inch and sew through to the end of the fabric. TIP: You don’t need to put the pedal to the medal! Take things at a speed that is comfortable to you so that you can keep sewing straight.

25. Be sure to slow down to remove pins as you get close to them. You can break pins – or worse, your needle – if you hit a pin while sewing. After reaching the end of your fabric, snip off the thread. Leave a few inches hanging out of the machine so that you do not have to re-thread.

26. You just finished your first stitch – great! You should have a tube of fleece with two open ends. But that stitch is showing – no good! Turn that tube inside-out and then set it aside. TIP: I find it helps to have a tool to help push that long tube of fabric inside-out. I usually use a chopstick. It makes it easier on your fingers and the whole process goes faster!

27. Unpin your base hat pattern from the fabric, and then open up your fleece. If it’s not in one piece like above, you’ve done something wrong. Consult your pattern for help – it should all be in one piece! Then, pin your brim to the hat.

28. Sew a straight line, just like before, that will connect your brim to your base hat like so. Don’t forget to reverse at the beginning and at the end, and remove pins as you go. TIP: Some machines are a little slow with thick layers of fabric like this – don’t try and force it! It will jam and then you will have to re-thread your machine.

29. Once finished, one side of your hat fabric will look like this. If it’s a little ugly, that’s okay! This is the working side of your fabric, where all the seams are hidden. The side that shows is the fashion side, and once we’re done, that will look great!

30. It’s time to pin the base hat. Fold the hat with the brim in half, like it was before, and pin up the side. Then, pin the remaining sides to each other. Don’t forget that we’re making a 3D object here! Be sure to pin the seams so that you have a pyramid kind of shape by the end of it. It should look like the image on the right by the time you are finished pinning.

31. TIP: If you have a free-arm sewing machine, now is a good time to take off the cabinet piece. I find it easier to sew curves free-arm than with a cabinet attached. If not, be sure to take things nice and slow during these next steps!

32. Sew the longest seam (just like before, with reversing and removing pins), which should be where the two open ends of your brim meet. This is now the back of your hat. You should have the three short seams still pinned remaining.

33. Sew up the three remaining short seams using the techniques we have already discussed.TIP: Be sure that you are orienting your fabric carefully. The last thing you want to do is sew the hat to itself so that you can’t put it on your head, otherwise you will have to rip out seams and do your stitch over!

34. It is entirely possible (and likely) that once you finish stitching you will have a hole in the top big enough to stick your finger through, like in the left image above. You can either put this through the machine again (if so, I usually do so from the top of the back seam), or you can hand-sew it shut. After that, be sure to snip off all those threads that are hanging off.

35. You just made a hat – awesome!

36. If you’re picky like me, you might put on your hat and find that the fit is not quite right. Maybe you have some extra fabric hanging out at the seams. We can take that in!

37. It’s simple to get rid of that bulky extra fleece. I re-pin the seams so that I’m sewing closer to the rest of the fabric, effectively creating a small triangle of extra fabric. Be sure to sew into the seam that you’ve already created before, using the techniques we’ve been using all day. Then, simply cut off the extra fabric .

38. Look at that fit – perfect!

39. I hope that you have found your first foray into sewing a fun and rewarding experience! If you feel lost in your future sewing adventures, there is always a way to find a helping hand along the way, whether it’s checking online or visiting a craft store. Before you throw yourself into a big project (like the one pictured here), it’s important to make sure you have the basics down first.A simple hat like the one we made is an easy way to practice and get used to the feel of your own machine. Buying and following easy patterns is a way to build your confidence and heighten your skill, too! Believe me, I started off just like you, but I taught myself enough over the last several years to make a crazy 12-pound ball gown like this one. One day, you can too! Just keep practicing and don’t give up!

40. CREDITS: • All photos, unless otherwise sourced, were either taken by Cara Wood or were a Microsoft stock image. • Pattern used was Green Pepper Polar Beanie F857 • All materials bought at JoAnn Fabrics • Theme used for presentation was a Microsoft PowerPoint stock theme • All text, unless otherwise sourced, is written originally by Cara Wood.