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HISTORICAL INFLUENCES ON FASHION Early 20 th Century 1901 - 1920

HISTORICAL INFLUENCES ON FASHION Early 20 th Century 1901 - 1920. Survey of Historic Costume (Fairchild Publications, 2003). Political Influences. World War I More women in workforce Practical, comfortable clothes Shorter skirts (above ankle) Military cuts Trench Coat.

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HISTORICAL INFLUENCES ON FASHION Early 20 th Century 1901 - 1920

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  1. HISTORICAL INFLUENCES ON FASHIONEarly 20th Century1901 - 1920 Survey of Historic Costume (Fairchild Publications, 2003)

  2. Political Influences • World War I • More women in workforce • Practical, comfortable clothes • Shorter skirts (above ankle) • Military cuts • Trench Coat

  3. Technology Influences • Automobile • Development of “travel” fashions: the duster, goggles, caps with visors, veiled hats • History of Automobile

  4. The duster was the typical “driving” fashion of the early 20th century http://www.fashion-era.com/images/Edwfashpics/1905motveil.jpg

  5. HISTORICAL INFLUENCESONFASHION1920’s, 1930’s and1940’s Survey of Historic Costume (Fairchild Publications, 2003)

  6. Social Life of the 1920’s • Revolution of mores and values • Prohibition – lead to the “speak-easy” (later, known as the nightclub) • Flapper Era - “The Roaring Twenties” • Body more revealed • Short hair • Increased use of make-up • Introduction of the “trouser”

  7. Typical 1920’s Flapper style: Short hair Silhouette: Straight, “tubular” dress Shortened hemline Lots of rouge and lipstick http://home.millsaps.edu/mcelvrs/flapper.jpg

  8. World War II • French couture (fashion) cut off during German Occupation • On the home front: • Leather shoes rationed • “L-85 Regulations” • restricted quantity of cloth to be used for civilian clothing • Restricted use of nylon, wool, silk, natural rubber

  9. Let’s go to the Movies - hairstyles Jean Harlow Shirley Temple

  10. Sports Influence • Increased participation by women • “Sportswear” established as separate fashion category

  11. Art Influence of the Period • Art Deco • Architecture and interiors • Geometric shapes • Cubism • Notables: • William Van Allen • Pablo Picasso • Henry Dreyfuss

  12. Surrealism (“beyond the real”) • Fabric prints and appointments that seem out of place • Notable: • Salvador Dali

  13. HISTORICAL INFLUENCESONFASHIONPost WWII through 1964 Survey of Historic Costume (Fairchild Publications, 2003)

  14. Teen Market Emerges • Originated in Britain • Teddy Boys – first independent teen fashion movement • Significance: • Promoted BY and FOR young people • Began among lower classes (trickle-up) • Evidenced as lifestyle cult

  15. Teddy Boys Fashion Longer coats with velvet or satin collars “Drainpipe” ties Slicked back hair D.A. haircuts http://www.fashion-era.com/1950s/1950s_4_teenagers_teddy_boys.htm http://www.teddygirl.co.uk/photos.htm

  16. Teddy Girls Fashion Velvet collars D.A. haircuts Turban-style headwear Lace-up espadrilles http://www.teddygirl.co.uk/photos.htm

  17. TV FASHION INFLUENCE

  18. TV FASHION INFLUENCE Lucille Ball’s pregnancy, the focus of the 2nd season of I Love Lucy, freed designers to more publicly address the need for fashionable maternity clothes http://www.cnn.com/SHOWBIZ/9705/13/concealing.pregnancies/

  19. Political Scene • John Kennedy – no hat at inauguration influenced decline of hat in men’s fashions • Jacqueline Kennedy • Pill box hat • A-line skirts • Low-slung pumps • Revival of empire style (from Greek)

  20. Empire waist Pillbox Hat A-line styling http://www.fiftiesweb.com/kennedy/jackie-kennedy.jpg

  21. HISTORICAL INFLUENCESONFASHIONVietnam Era1964-1974 Survey of Historic Costume (Fairchild Publications, 2003)

  22. Mod Fashion of the 1960’s • Elegance • Edwardian flair • “Long” hair

  23. “Beatlemania” - 1964 http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/en/d/d7/Beatlessullivansinging.jpg

  24. Rockers Fashion of the 1960’s • Leather jackets • Motorcycles http://www.costume.virtualmuseum.info/renegade.asp

  25. Hippie Fashion • Eclectic clothing • Long hair • Thrift store purchases • Communal living http://employees.oneonta.edu/angellkg/1960.HTML

  26. Mod fashions of the 1960’s • Color • Eclectic • Mini skirt http://www.fiftiesweb.com/fashion/mod-fashion.htm

  27. Unisex Fashion • Ties • Pantsuits • Annie Hall look http://employees.oneonta.edu/angellkg/1960.HTML http://www.riotpoof.com/archives/Hall.jpg

  28. African Fashion Influence African caftan dashiki Kente cloth

  29. Jeans rule Levi Strauss Trademark http://employees.oneonta.edu/angellkg/1960.HTML

  30. Op Art Pop Art http://www.ritsumei.ac.jp/~akitaoka/opart-e.html http://www.biada.org/materies/artsdidactica/art/pintura/pop_art/warCAMP.jpg

  31. www.sixtiescity.velnet.com/ Fash2/Fashion2.htm http://www.p4a.com/item_images/medium/08/94/28-01.jpg

  32. HISTORICAL INFLUENCESONFASHION1975-1996 Survey of Historic Costume (Fairchild Publications, 2003)

  33. U.S. HistorySocial/Technology • Baby Boomers having children • “Kiddie Couture” (NY Times)

  34. Changes in the Fashion Industry • GATT Treaty (General Agreements on Tariffs and Trade) • Apparel production shifts to 3rd world countries • NAFTA (North American Free Trade Agreement)

  35. Major Fashion Trends • Retro (retrospective) • Revival of previous styles

  36. 1970’s power suit revisited the padded shoulders and the tailored jacket of the 1940’s http://employees.oneonta.edu/angellkg/1970.html

  37. http://www.davenportandco.com/formal2.htm In the 1980’s formal wear was reminiscent of the lower waist lines of the Roaring 20’s and the puffed sleeves of the 1950’s, ushering in a revival of the “romantic” era

  38. Major Fashion Trends • Yuppies and Preps • Power suits (Yuppies) • Classic tweed, tailored skirts, pants, shirts, loafers, oxfords, low pumps (Preps)

  39. Other 1970’s Fashion Trends http://employees.oneonta.edu/angellkg/1970.html

  40. http://www.vintageblues.com/history8c.htm Other 1980’s fashion trends

  41. Major Fashion Trends • Punk – a London original • Sid Vicious of the Sex Pistols is the most popular and visible icon of the 1980’s British punk movement http://www.hotshotdigital.com/WellAlwaysRemember.2/SidVicious.htm

  42. Major Fashion Trends • African American Revival • Inner-city youth influence • Rap/hip hop musicians • Revival of kente cloth (and imitators) • Baggy pants, over-sized shirts • Dreadlocks • Emergence of black fashion models, designers

  43. Rappers NWA dreadlocks http://www.howtodread.com/dreds.htm http://www.solcomhouse.com/music.htm Influence of the African American movement through the 1990’s. http://www.pbs.org/newshour/infocus/fashion/hiphop.html

  44. The emergence of black models and designers reflected the importance and impact of the African American fashion movement http://www.amadoo.com/galerie/slideshow.php?set_albumName=Kiara-Kabukuru

  45. Consumer Changes of the Era • Baby Boomers older (32-50) • Obesity • Styles, stores targeted to larger consumers • Revolt of “heroin chic” (skinny bodies) • Fitness Craze • Leggings, high tech fabrics, micro fiber • Jogging suits • High tech athletic shoes • Continuation of casual wear – “Casual Fridays”

  46. Review of Fashion Influences • Silhouette • Hemlines • Technology • Fabrics/textiles • Political arena • Current events • Media • Consumer changes

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