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Wave Mechanics Assignment – Example Solution

Wave Mechanics Assignment – Example Solution. Cross Shore Morphology. ”Dynamic personality" of the beach Beach sediment is highly mobile - advantageous in that a beach can rapidly adjust its profile in response to a changing wave climate

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Wave Mechanics Assignment – Example Solution

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  1. Wave Mechanics Assignment – Example Solution

  2. Cross Shore Morphology ”Dynamic personality" of the beach Beach sediment is highly mobile - advantageous in that a beach can rapidly adjust its profile in response to a changing wave climate Profile change can be considered a natural defensive adjustment which can change where wave breaking occurs and how energy can be dissipated across the surf zone. By monitoring changes to the cross shore morphology (beach and nearshore topography), we can better understand beach behavior and how it changes in response to changing oceanic conditions.

  3. “Emery Board” - Cartoon Man Kenneth Orris (K. O.) Emery (1914-1998) Straightforward, effective technique – has advantage of rapid surveying with minimal equipment: 1. Two flat boards connected by a rope of standard length 2. Sight across top of seaward board to level of horizon – record ‘a’ (see figure above), which is equal to ‘b’ = the negative “rise” over the “run” (rope length) 3. Repeat the procedure from dune to low water

  4. “Emery Board” - Our class next week

  5. Beach Profiling - Other Techniques Numerous vehicles have been used within the surf zone and on the beach. Basic premise - they can report "where" they are, in 3 dimensions, quite accurately Correction is applied for the difference above the sea floor to obtain bathymetry. CRAB surfrover

  6. RTK - DGPS Beach Profiling Most common modern technique High precision Can be mounted on a backpack, a four-wheeler, a jetski, or a boat.

  7. RTK - DGPS - UF Geo Dept.

  8. Argus – “Remote Sensing” / Video Technique

  9. Argus Station Operating from Feb. 2003 to present

  10. Oblique view of sand body migration

  11. Panoramic View to Map View Panoramic view Map view East West

  12. Beach Profiling Technique Use the tide to contour the beach. Large tidal range - 8+ meters. Tide represents a horizontal plane of known elevation. Intersection of tidal plane w/ beach surface gives a contour line. Permits mapping of beach profiles. Show HomerCam6_July6-10_2004.mov R_04_TideContouringMovie_June_14_2003.avi

  13. Comparison of profile aquisition

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